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PLANT   CULTURE 


PLANT  CULTURE 


A  WORKING  HAND-BOOK  OF  EVERY 
.-.  .-.  DAY  PRACTICE  FOR  .-.  .-. 
ALL  WHO  GROW  FLOWERING  AND 
.-.  .-.  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS  .-.  .-. 
IN  THE  GARDEN  AND  GREENHOUSE 


BY 

GEORGE  W.  OLIVER 

Propagator  to  the  U.  S.   Botanic  Garden,   Washington,   D.  C.,  and 
late  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Garden,  Edinburgh 


NEW  YORl^ 

A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE  PRINTING  AND  PUBLISHING  CO.,  LTD. 

1900 


Copyright 

Entered  According  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the 
Year  1900  by 
T.  DE  LA  MARE  PRINTING  AND  PUBLISHING  COMPANY,  LTD. 
New  York 


All  Rights  Reserved. 


PREFACE 


In  nearly  all  of  the  recent  works  of  this  nature,  appearing 
in  America,  the  subjects  dealt  with  have  been  confined,  more 
or  less,  to  those  plants  that  can  be  and  are  cultivated  by 
commercial  florists  for  profit,  or  by  those  who  own  conserva- 
tories. And  while  the  present  book  includes  all  this  class  of  in- 
formation it  has  a  far  wider  scope  treating,  as  it  does,  on  the  care 
and  management  of  a  diversity  of  plants  not  touched  upon  by 
other  writers,  all  equally  necessary  in  the  adornment  of  our 
gardens  and  homes  and,  for  this  purpose,  as  beautiful  and  inter- 
esting as  those  that  generally  receive  the  greatest  attention  from 
authors  of  most  horticultural  works.  Divested  of  superfluous 
verbiage,  and  shorn  of  perplexing  technicalities  which  tend  to 
confuse,  the  cultural  directions  here  given  can  be  easily  and 
successfully  followed,  the  results  contributing  to  the  perfect 
enjoyment  of  **the  purest  of  human  pleasures,"  by  some,  and 
affording  to  others  a  lucrative  occupation. 

What  I  have  given  here  are  teachings  gleaned  and  sifted 
from  the  experience  of  many  years'  work  as  a  gardener  and 
florist.  The  methods  described  are  such  as  have  been  success- 
fully practiced  by  me  and  can  be  safely  relied  on  as  up-to-date 
and  thoroughly  applicable  to  American  conditions  and  require- 


While  the  notes  have  been  made  short,  they  will,  never- 
theless, in  most  cases,  cover  the  essential  points  in  the 
methods  of  raising  and  caring  for  the  plants  named,  and  be 
understood  by  the  average  reader  as  easily  as  if  they  had 
been  dealt  with  in  longer  articles.  Hitherto,  the  information 
available  on  the  subjects  treated  upon  has,  for  the  most  part, 
been  widely  scattered  in  numerous  magazines  and  books, 
many  of  which  are  expensive;  and  it  is  often  found  necessary 
to  search  through  a  mass  of  technical  details  in  order  to  find 
the  required  information.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  present 
volume  will,  in  great  measure,  reduce  the  difficulties  referred 
to,  and  render  the  art  of  plant  cultivation  pi*t)fitable  and  enjoy- 
able to  the  many  whose  tastes  are  horticultural. 

George  W.  Oliver. 
Washington,  July,  1900. 


CONTENTS, 


Page 
Stove  and  Greenhouse  Plants         -        -        -         9 

Bedding  Plants 50 

Vase  and  Basket  Plants          -        -        -        ■  65 

Vines,  Hardy  and  Tender  -        -        -        -  67 

Bulbous  Plants 79 

Ornamental  Grasses  -----  92 

Water  Plants — Aquatics 96 

Ferns  and  Lycopods loi 

Hardy  Perennial  Plants           -        -         -        -  iii 

Hardy  Shrubs      -         -         -        -         -        -  147 

General  Directions          -        -        -        -        -  176 

Propagation      -         -         -         -         -         -  -176 

Seeds 176 

Grafting 178-180 

Budding 180 

Layering    -------  181 

Hybridization         ------  182 

Potting  Plants 182 

Soil 185 

Mulching          -         -                   -         -         -  -    185 

Watering      -------  186 


W%fcS- 


vv 


Stove  and  Greenhouse  Plants. 


ABUTILON— Several  of  the  varieties  having  ornamental  foliage,  such 
as  A.  Darwini  tesselatum,  A.  Sellonianum  marmoratum,  A.  vexillarium 
and  Eclipse,  are  good  bedding  plants.  The  last  two  are  useful  for  vases 
and  boxes.  All  of  them  have  the  leaves  blotched  with  yellow.  Souvenir 
de  Bonn  and  Savitzii  are  variegated  with  white.  Cuttings  are  rooted  in 
the  Fall,  or  may  betaken  in  early  Spring  from  lifted  and  cut  back  plants. 
The  varieties  grown  for  their  flowers  are  numerous;  the  colors  are  pink, 
red,  white  and  yellow.    They  are  everblooming. 

ACACIA— Seedlings  of  Acacias  are  not  to  be  recommended  for  small 
flowering  plants,  on  account  of  their  lanky  growth.  Not  only  are  plants 
from  cuttings  most  floriferous,  but  they  are  easier  trained  to  any  desired 
shape.  They  should  be  taken  from  the  half-ripened  shoots  during  the 
month  of  June.  A  peatty  soil  mixed  with  half  sand  should  be  used,  as 
the  roots  will  take  nourishment  from  it  immediately  they  are  formed. 
Make  the  cuttings  with  a  sharp  knife  and  take  off  the  leaves  from  the 
part  which  is  to  go  in  the  soil  with  a  small  pair  of  sharp  scissors.  The 
pots  for  rooting  the  cuttings  in  should  be  prepared  carefully— rough 
crocks  in  the  bottom  and  flner  above,  until  they  are  fllled  to  within  two 
inches  of  the  rim.  The  remaining  space  should  be  filled  with  finely  sifted 
peat  and  sand  in  equal  parts  topped  off  with  pure  sand.  Dibble  in  the 
cuttings  to  the  depth  of  about  an  inch  and  not  too  crowded.  They 
must  be  kept  "  close  "  during  the  operation  of  rooting,  and  as  cool  as 
possible.  The  pots,  which  may  be  plunged  in  sand,  should  be  covered 
with  a  movable  glass  structure.  A  good  plan  is  to  have  two  sets  of 
those  hand-light  or  bell-glasses,  and  instead  of  wiping  the  moisture 
from  them  daily,  remove  the  wet  ones  and  slip  over  them  those  which 
are  dry.  After  the  first  watering  the  cuttings  will  take  but  little  more 
during  the  process  of  rooting;  when  they  do  require  it  the  fohage  should 
be  allowed  to  dry  before  putting  back  the  covers.  Acacia  Riceana  is 
perhaps  the  finest  greenhouse  species  for  very  large  plants.  A.  pubes- 
cens,  A.  Drummondi  and  A.  paradoxa  are  all  good  greenhouse  species, 
flowering  well  on  moderate-sized  specimens.  Sandy  loam,  to  which  a 
goodly  quantity  of  leaf  soil  or  peat  is  added,  will  suit  them.  Firm  pot- 
ting and  good  drainage  are  necessary.  Plunge  the  plants  outside  dur- 
ing Summer,  and  give  liberal  supplies  of  water  when  the  plants  are  well 
established. 

ACALYPHA  HISPIDA— Large  plants  in  pots  are  speedily  produced  by 
using  a  goodly  quantity  of  bone  meal  in  the  soil.  Grow  in  a  high  tem- 
perature. If  tall  plants  are  wanted,  keep  nipping  out  the  flower  spikes 
as  they  appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  When  the  plant  reaches  the 
desired  height  nip  out  the  ends  of  the  shoots;  this  will  cause  branching. 

AQAPANTHUS  UMBELLATUS— The  African  blue  Lily  is  a  desirable 
plant  for  cool  greenhouses,  and  ornamental  either  in  or  out  of  bloom. 
In  general  appearance  it  resembles  the  Imantophyllum,  but  the  flowers 


nonRTY  uBhAur 


10  STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

are  bright  blue,  a  great  number  of  them  being  produced  in  an  umbel 
supported  by  a  long,  stout  stalk.  The  Agapanthus  is  one  of  those 
plants  which  have  the  appearance  of  doing  well  with  cramped  root 
room,  so  there  is  a  temptation  when  potting  other  things  to  leave  the 
plants  for  another  year;  but  this  practice  is  carried  on  at  the  expense  of 
the  magnificent  heads  of  flowers,  which  get  smaller  and  smaller  until  a 
season  goes  by  without  any  being  produced.  This  species  sometimes 
stands  the  Winters  at  Washington,  D.  C,  in  sheltered  positions.  There 
are  several  varieties — the  white,  double-flowered  and  the  variety  with 
variegated  leaves  being  the  most  conspicuous. 

AQATHiCA  CCELESTIS— A  cool  greenhouse,  low-growing  shrub  with 
blue,  daisy-hke  flowers  produced  principally  in  Winter.  Cuttings  should 
be  taken  from  the  soft  wood  in  Fall  and  Spring.  It  will  stand  full  sun 
at  all  seasons. 

AGAVE  AflERICANA  and  its  variegated  forms,  together  with  several 
other  more  or  less  ornamental  species,  are  much  cultivated  in  pots  and 
tubs.  They  grow  best  in  rather  poor  but  well-drained  soil,  and  are 
increased  by  seeds  and  offsets.  The  flowering  period  of  adult  specimens 
is  hastened  by  keeping  them  in  a  pot-bound  state.  On  the  other  hand, 
growth  of  foliage  is  accelerated  by  giving  abundant  root  room. 

ALLAHANDAS— Among  the  select  flowering  plants  for  temporary  or 
permanent  use  in  tubs  we  must  include  the  large  flowering  allamandas 
known  as  Cathartica,  Schottii  and  grandiflora.  They  will  thrive  in 
shade  or  sun;  where  a  little  shade  is  available  the  flowers  naturally  last 
longer.  The  flowers  are  large,  almost  the  size  of  the  moonflower,  but 
more  lasting,  the  shoots  ramble  over  the  sides  of  the  tubs.  Procure 
some  young  plants  in  the  beginning  of  May  and  a  little  later  plant  in 
the  open  to  make  growth  for  cuttings.  After  cutting  them  back  for 
propagation  lift  and  pot,  partly  resting  them  for  the  Winter.  For  im- 
mediate effect  after  planting  out  start  early  in  the  Spring;  one  plant  to 
a  tub,  among  other  things,  is  sufficient.  The  best  upright  growing 
species  is  named  Williamsii,  a  grand  plant  either  for  boxes,  tubs  or  for 
bedding  out;  it  is  easily  propagated  in  the  Fall  from  ripe  cuttings. 
The  larger  flowered  kinds,  when  represented  by  large  ijlants,  are  very 
desirable  for  isolating  on  a  lawn.  A  good,  rich,  light  soil  is  necessary, 
and  if  a  tub  is  used  for  the  plant  put  enough  drainage  in  the  bottom  so 
that  the  plant  when  knocked  out  of  the  pot  will  rest  on  the  drainage. 
Ram  the  soil  firmly  around  the  ball,  shorten  back  the  strong  growths 
and  stand  the  plants  in  a  partly  shaded  spot,  syringing  frequently.  In 
a  few  weeks'  time,  the  kinds  grown  under  the  names  Wardleana,  Hen- 
dersoni  and  Schottii,  will  give  an  abundant  display  of  their  wide, 
trumpet-shaped,  yellow  flowers.  When  trained  near  the  roof  of  a  warm 
greenhouse  they  may  be  had  in  bloom  the  greater  part  of  the  Winter 
months.  In  fact,  they  can  be  so  managed  as  to  have  them  bloom  at 
any  time  of  the  year,  by  first  resting  the  plants,  pruning  back  and 
encouraging  the  root  growth.  Cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  will  root  in  a 
warm  propagating  house  at  any  season. 

ALOCASI A— Although  among  the  most  ornamental  of  stove  plants, 
none  of  them  can  be  put  to  much  use  outside  of  these  structures.    Out 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  11 

of  a  large  number  of  species  and  forms,  A.  metallica,  A.  Sedenii,  A.  Tbi- 
bautiana,  A.  Sanderiana  and  A.  macrorhiza  variegata  are  well  known. 
The  two  last  named  are  increased  by  offsets;  the  others,  by  cutting  up 
the  succulent  stems  of  old  plants.  Put  the  pieces  in  damp  moss,  in  a 
propagating  frame,  with  a  temperature  of  80  degrees.  After  sprouting 
put  them  in  a  potting  mixture  similar  to  that  given  for  nepenthes.  The 
plants  must  be  shaded  from  the  .sun  at  all  times,  and  'grown  in  a  mini- 
mum temperature  of  60  degrees. 

ALOYSIA  CITRIODORA— The  sweet-scented  verbena,  grows  very 
strongly  when  planted  out,  finishing  up  the  season  by  covering  itself 
with  myriads  of  small,  insignificant  flowers.  It  is  a  very  popular  plant, 
on  account  of  its  sweet-smelling  leaves,  being  almost  identical  in  this 
respect  with  those  of  the  lemon  grass  and  Eucalyptus  citriodora.  Keep 
some  old  plants  over  Winter;  start  them  early  in  Spring  and  root  the 
growths,  as  soon  as  they  get  enough  length  to  them,  in  warm  sand  bed. 

AHARYLLIS— See  Bulbous  Plants. 

ANANAS — Ananas  Porteana  is  hardly  worth  growing  for  its  variega- 
tion when  we  have  the  splendid  variegated  forms  of  the  common  pine- 
apple—A. sativa.  In  a  warm,  sheltered  place  all  of  the  kinds  do  well 
out-of-doors  in  Summer,  where  they  put  on  exquisite  colorings.  If 
grown  large  enough  the  plants  will  fruit  in  the  same  way  as  the  green- 
leaved  forms.  In  fact,  it  is  best  to  allow  them  to  fruit,  as  subsequently 
they  form  suckers  the  more  readily.  These  suckers  may  be  rooted  in 
sand,  not  too  moist,  but  very  warm.  After  being  potted  off  and  taken 
with  the  soil  a  little  they  will  stand  full  sunlight  without  injury. 

ANTHERICUM  VARIEGATUM  is  a  good  all-round  plant  for  vases,  bed- 
ding, or  potted  for  window  decoration,  although  for  the  last-named 
purpose  it  is  surpassed  by  the  variety  known  as  A.  media  picta.  If  the 
plants  which  were  lifted  in  the  Fall  are  allowed  to  bloom,  and  the 
flower  stalks  remain  on  the  plants  afterward,  a  good  opportunity  to 
increase  the  stock  of  plants  presents  itself  during  February.  All  along 
the  flowering  stems  will  be  found  a  crop  of  small  rosettes  of  leaves 
which,  if  cut  off,  stems  and  all,  and  laid  on  the  sand  in  the  shaded  part 
of  a  warm  house,  will  send  out  roots  in  a  short  time.  Large  clumps  of 
A.  variegatum,  which  have  been  hibernating  under  benches,  should  be 
broken  up  about  the  end  of  January  and  potted  in  3  and  4-inch  pots. 
They  may  be  placed  under  benches  where  the  light  will  strike  them  for 
at  least  a  portion  of  the  day. 

ANTHURIUn— The  species  of  this  genus  are  grown  either  for  foliage 
or  flower.  None  of  them  has  handsome  foliage  and  showy  flowers  com- 
bined in  the  same  plant.  A  crystallinum,  A.  Veitchii  and  A.  Warocque- 
anum  are  very  beautiful  foliage  plants,  but  the  flowers  are  inconspicu- 
ous. On  the  other  hand  A.  Andreanum,  A.  ornatum  and  their  numerous 
hybrid  progeny,  together  with  A.  Scherzerianum  and  varieties,  have 
rather  ordinary -looking  leaves;  but  in  each  case  the  inflorescence  is  ex- 
ceedingly attractive.  The  showy  part  of  the  inflorescence  is  what  is 
termed  the  spathe,  answering  the  same  purpose  as  calyx  and  corolla  in 
other  flowers.    Their  cultural  needs  are:  temperature,  65  to  85  degrees; 


12  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

shade  at  all  times,  lightest  in  Winter.  The  potting  mixture  should  be 
rough,  fibry  peat,  sphagnum,  decayed  cow  manure  and  sand,  except  for 
A.  Scherzerianum,  which  needs  less  sphagnum  and  more  peat.  Water 
should  be  copiously  supplied  in  the  growing  season.  Toward  the  end  of 
January,  with  increasing  sun  heat,  these  plants  will  soon  commence 
active  growth  for  the  season.  Before  this  takes  place  they  should  be 
looked  over  for  the  purpose  of  repotting  or  for  rooting  any  tall  or  strag- 
gling growths  which  have  grown  away  from  the  sphagnum  in  the  pot. 
In  this  condition  the  roots,  which  are  formed  at  the  bases  of  the  lea 
stems,  shrivel  up  for  want  of  moisture  and  the  plant  becomes  shy  in 
blooming.  Cutoff  the  shoots  that  are  in  this  condition  and  put  in  a 
mixture  of  sphagnum  and  sand  in  a  warm  part  of  tbe  propagating 
bench;  keep  moist  and  roots  will  form  in  abundance  in  about  three 
weeks,  when  they  should  be  potted  up  in  the  usual  way.  Old  plants 
should  have  the  lower  part  of  the  stem  and  roots  removed  and  sunk 
lower  in  the  pot, using  a  mixture  of  fibrous  peat,  sphagnum,  well  decom- 
posed cow  manure,  charcoal  and  sand.  This  treatment  applies  only  to 
such  kinds  as  A.  Andreanum,  A.  ornatum  and  their  numerous  hybrid 
progeny,  all  of  which  produce  very  showy  flowers  which  may  be  used  to 
advantage  associated  with  those  of  orchids.  Their  cultivation  is 
exceedingly  simple  where  sufficient  heat  is  at  command,  a  minimum  tem- 
perature of  65  degrees  F.  being  necessary. 

APONOQETON  DISTACHYON— This  is  not  a  greenhouse  plant,  but, 
where  opportunities  offer,  it  certainly  should  be  grown  as  such.  It  is 
known  as  the  Cape  Pond  Weed.  The  flowers,  arranged  much  in  the  same 
way  as  those  of  the  Ouvirandra,  have  large,  showy  white  bracts;  very 
sweet  smelling.  In  its  native  haunts  the  seeds  germinate  on  the  surface 
of  the  water,  forming  very  small  tubers  which,  when  the  leaves  decay, 
sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  pond  and  become  established  there. 

ARALIA — Aralia  Veitchii  and  A.  gracillima  are  readily  rooted  if  the 
cuttings  are  taken  at  the  proper  time;  that  is,  when  young  shoots 
develop  on  a  cut-back  plant,  and  they  are  removed  with  a  heel  and  kept 
in  a  close,  warm  propagating  frame.  But  this  is  a  slower  method  than 
grafting  if  the  necessary  stocks  are  at  hand.  A.  Guilfoylei,  or  any  of  the 
woody  species  of  Panax,  make  good  enough  stock  on  which  to  work 
them.'  Select  long,  wiry  wood  for  cions — that  which  is  not  too  thick 
and  well  ripened.  In  the  cions  a  piece  of  the  stem  to  each  leaf  is  all  that 
is  necessary.  Cut  the  stock  clear  across  and  down  to  as  near  the  soil  as 
possible;  make  an  incision  in  it  downward  for  three-quarters  of  an  inch. 
Make  the  wood  of  the  cion  wedge-shaped  to  fit  the  incision,  and  tie  to 
keep  in  position  till  united,  during  which  process  they  should  be  kept  in 
a  rather  warm,  humid  atmosphere— a  moderately  warm  propagating 
frame  will  answer.  The  leaves  of  the  cions,  if  too  large,  should  be  short- 
ened back  a  little.  March  is  the  best  month  In  which  to  perform  the 
operation. 

Aralia  Chabrierii,  so  called,  strikes  so  readily  from  cuttings  put  in  a 
cool  house  that  there  is  no  necessity  for  grafting  them. 

Aralia  (Fatsia)  japonica  is  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  best  plants  for 
decorative  purposes,  but  like  several  other  good  things  in  this  line  it  is 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  13 

not  got  up  in  any  very  great  quantity,  possibly  from  metliods  of  propa- 
gation not  being  evident.  It  is  rattier  backward  in  producing  seeds  in 
thiis  country,  altliougii  moderately  large  plants  flower  freely  enough. 
From  cuttings,  by  topping  old  plants,  it  is  rather  slow.  It  is  said  to 
vegetate  from  pieces  of  the  roots.  I  have  not  tried  this  method.  Seeds 
are  obtainable  from  some  of  the  European  firms  at  reasonable  prices. 
These  should  be  got  hold  of  during  March  or  April  and  sown  then,  as 
they  do  not  retain  their  vitality  for  any  great  length  of  time.  Firm  the 
soil  in  the  seed  pans  before  sowing,  and  cover  with  a  mixture  of  loam 
and  sand;  place  in  a  temperature  suitable  for  warm  greenhouse  plants, 
shaded  from  the  sun.  The  seedlings,  as  soon  as  large  enough  to  handle, 
should  be  potted  off  singly  into  2-inch  pots,  and  when  in  4-inch  pots 
they  should  be  plunged  outside  during  the  Summer,  in  a  frame  covered 
with  slats,  or  with  sash-tilted  top  and  bottom  alternately.  When  large 
enough  for  a  shift  they  should  get  it,  as  they  suffer  from  being  root- 
bound.  Old  plants  will  stand  considerable  frost,  but  the  young  plants 
are  always  more  tender  and  should  on  the  approach  of  cool  weather  be 
given  protection. 

A.  J.  variegata  is  a  highly  ornamental  form. 

ARAUCARIAS— In  the  propagation  of  the  Araucaria  a  good  plan  is 
to  procure  seed  and  sow  at  the  end  of  the  year.  The  seedlings  are,  of 
course,  not  well-furnished  at  the  base,  but  they  make  good  stock  plants 
and  cheaper  ones  than  can  be  procured  otherwise.  The  finely  ripened 
tops  of  the  seedlings  are  so  easy  to  root  that,  with  ordinary  care,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  lose  a  cutting  Moreover,  the  cut-back  plants  will 
immediately  begin  to  throw  up  good  leaders,  which  in  turn  are  used  for 
cuttings.  In  taking  cuttings  from  plants  which  have  attained  consider- 
able size,  the  lateral  branches  may  be  rooted  along  with  the  tops— not 
for  making  specimen  plants,  because  this  is  impossible,  but  for  the  pur- 
pose of  providing  material  for  cuttings;  for,  when  cut  back,  they  will 
Ihrow  up  [leaders,  which  are  as  good  as  the  best.  The  soil  for  propa- 
gating should  be  sandy,  and  pressed  firmly  about  the  base  of  the  cut- 
tings, which  should  be  kept  in  a  frame  shaded  from  sunlight,  with 
enough  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  to  keep  them  from  wilting.  Keep 
the  temperature  a  little  higher  after  the  cuttings  have  callused.  Most 
of  the  plants  used  in  this  country  (principally  A.  excelsa)  are  imported 
from  Europe.  This  Araucaria  is  a  native  of  Norfolk  Island  and  is 
known  as  the  Norfolk  Island  Pine.  The  best  place  for  the  plants  in 
Summer  is  under  a  structure  covered  with  slats,  in  which  similarly  con- 
stituted plants  may  pass  the  hot  months. 

ARDISIA— The  red-berried  ardisia,  A.  crenulata,  continues  to  be  one 
of  the  most  attractive  Christmas  plants.  It  can  be  recommended  as  a 
first-class  window  subject,  owing  to  its  apparent  indifference  to  a  little 
cold  or  occasional  neglect  in  the  way  of  watering.  Seeds  may  be  sowii 
during  the  latter  part  of  January.  Plants  over  one  year  old  are  never 
without  a  crop  of  seed  at  any  season,  if  they  are  in  good  health;  and 
frequently  we  see  them  with  two  crops  at  one  time  along  with  the 
flowers,  which  in  a  short  period  produce  the  third  crop  of  berries.  The 
old  fruits  have  usually  a  grimy  appearance  from  hanging  so  long  on  the 


14  STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

bush.  When  there  is  any  choice  in  the  matter  the  oldest  berries  should 
be  taken  for  sowing,  as  they  will  be  the  first  to  fall  from  the  plant. 
Wash  the  pulp  from  around  the  seed  and  sow  immediately,  affording  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  soil  above  the  seeds,  firming  well  and  giving  the 
pots  or  boxes  a  position  in  a  cool  house.  Keep  the  soil  moderately 
damp,  with  abundance  of  air  during  mild  weather.  Conditions  such  as 
these  will  give  the  seed  ample  time  to  germinate  and  make  plants  in  4- 
inch  pots  by  the  following  Fall.  Cuttings  root  freely  in  sand,  but  do  not 
make  as  symmetrical  plants  as  seedlings.  When  the  old  plants  get  leggy 
the  tops  are  easily  rooted  by  making  an  incision  in  the  stems  and  tying 
moss  around  them.    These  tops  make  very  fine  dwarf  specimens. 

ASPARAGUS— As  pot  plants  there  are  only  three  species  of  any  value; 
these  are  A.  plumosus  nanus,  A.  tenuissimus  and  A.  Sprengeri. 

A.  plumosus  is  a  very  distinct  plant  from  A.  plumosus  nanus  and 
probably  is  a  distinct  species.     (See  Vines). 

A.  plumosus  nanus  makes  a  profusion  of  short  growths  from  the 
base,  and  may  be  kept  in  this  condition  by  pot  culture  and  pinching 
shoots  that  show  a  tendency  to  run  up;  for  it  will  grow  30  feet  high 
under  proper  conditions.  Dividing  starved  plants  is  the  readiest 
method  of  increasing  stock.  Wash  out  the  roots  and  place  the  divisions 
in  moderately  wet  sand,  to  make  a  few  roots  before  potting. 

A.  tenuissimus  should  be  rooted  from  cuttings.  Unlike  the  other 
kinds  it  is  easy  to  manage  in  this  respect. 

A.  Sprengeri  does  best  where  its  branches  are  allowed  to  hang  down 
instead  of  being  planted  in  a  bed  like  the  better  known  A.  plumosus 
nanus.  The  ideal  method  is  to  have  the  plants  in  large  wire  baskets 
suspended  from  the  roof  of  a  house;  and  where  the  plants  underneath 
don't  suffer  from  drip  or  shade  this  system  will  work  all  right.  Where 
a  large  supply  of  this  green  is  wanted  the  north  wall  of  a  house  may  be 
used  economically  by  erecting  trough-like  receptacles  running  the  entire 
length  of  the  house.  The  top  one  may  be  as  near  the  glass  as  possible, 
the  next  in  front  6  or  8  inches  lower  down,  and  so  on,  giving  enough 
room  to  prevent  crowding  of  the  branches.  Old  plants  may  be  divided 
for  planting  out,  and  .for  small  specimens  in  pots,  which  are  useful  in 
asscciating  with  ferns.  Seedlings  are  easily  raised.  The  plants  ripen 
seed  in  midwinter.  If  cleaned  and  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  the  seeds 
germinate  quickly. 

ASPIDISTRA— The  usual  way  to  increase  the  stock  of  these  very  valu- 
able decorative  plants  is  to  divide  up  large  specimens  into  small  pieces, 
potting  and  keeping  close  until  they  make  fresh  roots.  A  method  requir- 
ing a  little  more  work,  certainly,  but  giving  salable  plants  in  a  shorter 
period,  and  more  of  them,  as  every  small  piece  will  grow,  is  to  shake  the 
old  plants  out,  disentangle  the  rhizomes  as  carefully  as  possible,  and 
wash  clean,  saving  every  little  piece  that  is  likely  to  grow.  Cut  the  rhi- 
zomes into  small  pieces,  with  roots  attached,  and  put  in  the  sand  bed 
to  make  fresh  roots;  subsequently  put  in  small  pots  and  keep  close  for 
a  few  days.    A.  elatior  and  A.  elatior  variegata  are  the  ones  most  com- 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  15 

monly  grown.    It  is  said  that  A.  lurida  is  tiardy  as  far  North  as  Phila- 
delphia. 

ASPLENIUM— See  Ferns. 

AZALEA — Indian  Azaleas  used  so  extensively  for  Winter  and  Spring 
flowering  are  European  grown.  They  arrive  in  the  Fall  in  wonderfully 
good  condition,  as  a  rule. 

The  Newly  Imported  Plants— These  should  not  be  potted  in  the  first 
kind  of  soil  that  comes  to  hand;  rather  choose  that  which  is  as  far  as 
possible  like  the  material  in  which  they  have  been  grown.  Firm  potting 
is  very  very  important.  The  rootlets  are  exceedingly  fine  and  they  make 
but  little  progress  in  loose  soil  when  in  pots.  Examine  the  roots  care- 
fully before  potting,  and  if  the  balls  are  at  all  dry,  stand  them  in  a  tub  of 
water  until  wet  through;  allow  to  drain,  then  pot.  This  treatment 
should  be  given  to  all  plants  of  the  same  family,  such  as  Andromedas, 
Kalmias,  Ericas,  Epacris  and  Rhododendrons,  as  they  all  have  roots  of 
the  same  nature.  For  the  first  week  or  two  after  potting  put  the  plants 
in  a  deep  frame  with  the  sash  kept  on  ;  and  for  those  which  are  meant 
for  later  flowering  this  frame,  if  frost  can  be  kept  out  of  it,  will  be  the 
proper  place  to  Winter  the  plants. 

Removing  Side  Growths — Azalea  plants  which  for  forcing  purposes  are 
in  a  comparatively  high  temperature,  and  otherwise  under  conditions 
with  which  they  are  unaccustomed,  will  push  out  growths  at  the  bases 
of  the  flower  buds;  especially  is  this  the  case  with  plants  the  roots  of 
which  are  in  perfect  order.  This  tendency  is  shown  less  earlier  in  the 
season  than  lateron,  but  whenever  it  does  occur,  the  sooner  the  growths 
are  removed  the  better  are  the  chances  for  the  perfect  development  of 
the  flowers. 

Treatment  During  Summer — Azalea  plants  left  unsold  in  Spring  will 
increase  in  value  if  they  are  properly  handled  during  the  Summer 
months.  It  pays  to  grow  on  imported  Azaleas,  from  small  plants  into 
big  ones,  because,  when  lifted  in  the  Fall,  they  are  equally  as  good  as,  if 
not  better  than,  imported  plants  for  general  use,  and  much  better  for 
forcing.  About  the  beginning  of  May  stand  the  plants  which  have  been 
in  the  greenhouse  in  a  cold  frame  or  a  sheltered  spot  outside,  to  gradu- 
ally harden  them  off  previous  to  putting  them  in  the  ground,  so  that 
when  that  operation  is  performed  they  will  not  get  chilled  at  the  roots. 
In  a  few  days  prepare  a  bed  for  them;  dig  a  trench  of  sufficient  size  for 
the  balls,  keeping  the  sizes  together.  Scatter  a  couple  of  inches  of  leaf 
mould  and  sand  in  the  trench;  knock  the  plants  out  of  their  pots,  if 
necessary  reduce  the  balls  a  little;  place  in  the  trench,  fill  in  with  a  mix- 
ture of  leaf  soil,  sand  and  loam,  ramming  it  firm  around  them.  Some 
lath  slats  on  very  hot  days,  pinchings  when  necessary  and  frequent 
waterings  with  the  hose,  will  be  all  that  is  required  for  the  next  five 
months.  At  the  expiration  of  that  time  they  will  have  ripened  their 
growth  for  the  season,  when  they  may  be  lifted  and  the  balls  reduced  in 
size  so  as  to  go  comfortably  into  the  proper-sized  pots. 

BEGONIA— This  genus  is  a  deservedly  popular  one,  as  it  possesses 
numerous  specie*  aud  varieties,  useful  either  as  greenhouse,  window  or 


16  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

bedding  plants.  Nearly  all  of  them  will  grow  in  a  wide  range  of  soils. 
Two  parts  loam  and  a  third  of  equal  parts  decayed  cow  manure  and 
sand  will  be  found  to  answer  the  requirements  of  most  of  them. 

Sowing  Seed— The  seeds  of  all  Begonias  are  very  minute  and  should 
be  sown  on  finely  sifted  and  previously  watered  soil,  without  covering, 
excepting  perhaps  a  very  fine  dusting  of  silver  sand.  The  pan  may  be 
covered  with  glass  until  germination  takes  place. 

The  tuberous  rooted  section  behave  grandly  in  some  parts  of  the 
country  when  planted  out.  In  the  warmer  localities  they  do  not  thrive. 
The  tubers  are  Wintered  much  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  Caladiums  or 
Gloxinias.  Young  plants  are  raised  from  seed  in  Spring,  but  they  bloom 
late. 

Winter  Bloomers— Begonia  Gloire  de  Sceaux  is  a  hybrid  between  B. 
Bubpeltata  and  B.  socotrana,  the  latter  being  one  of  the  parents  of  the 
wonderfully  floriferous  Gloire  de  Lorraine.  Gloire  de  Sceaux  is  a  trifle 
miffy  and  that  is  probably  the  reason  we  see  less  of  it  grown  than  we 
did  a  few  years  ago.  Flowering  wood  is  not  the  best  for  cuttings. 
Young  plants  are  best  started  from  the  leaves.  When  well  flowered  it  is 
a  very  effective  plant  for  decorations,  owing  to  the  bronzy  color  of  the 
foliage  and  bright  pink  flowers.  Paul  Bruant  is  one  -of  the  best  flower- 
ing of  the  genus,  and  one  which  does  well  in  a  house  window;  the  foHage 
slightly  resembles  that  of  B.  Gilsonii,  another  good  Winter  bloomer, 
with  double  flowers,  said  to  have  been  raised  before  the  War  of  the  Re- 
bellion by  a  colored  man  named  Gilson.  Its  history  would  be  interest- 
ing, seeing  that  it  is  a  shrubby  kind  with  the  flowers  double.  President 
Carnot,  after  having  grown  this  hybrid  since  it  was  sent  out  a  few  years 
ago,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  best  way  to  manage  it,  in 
the  absence  of  a  place  in  the  greenhouse,  where  it  can  be  planted  out,  is 
to  put  it  out  in  the  open  lot  in  the  Summer,  where  it  is  encouraged  to 
make  all  the  growth  possible;  lift  with  a  good  ball,  pot  carefully,  when 
it  will  flower  in  midwinter  most  profusely.  The  large  clusters  of  female 
flowers  are  one  of  the  most  attractive  features  in  the  greenhouse  in  mid- 
winter. Two  other  good  Winter  blooming  species  for  house  culture  are 
B.  manicata  aurea  and  B.  acuminata;  the  former  has  light  pink  flowers 
and  yellow  spotted  leaves;  the  latter  small,  crisp-looking  foliage  and 
pure  white  flowers. 

Begonia  Corallina-^ffo  grow  this  species  from  seed  is  rather  unsatis- 
factory; it  takes  the  best  part  of  a  year  to  bloom  and  then,  as  a  rule, 
many  of  the  seedlings  are  inferior  to  the  forms  already  in  cultivation, 
the  most  noticeable  point  being  their  lack  of  free-blooming  qualities. 
Cuttings  of  this,  the  queen  of  shrubby  Begonias,  either  for  bedding  pur- 
poses or  pot  plants,  should  always  be  preferred,  as  they  begin  to  flower 
shortly  after  being  potted  off.  It  is  a  species  which  stands  very  rich 
soil.  Other  good  shrubby  kinds  are  B.  nitida  and  B.  nitida  alba,  B. 
incarnata,  B.  fuchsioides,  B.  Saundersii  and  B.  semperflorens  gigantea 
rosea. 

Begonia  Qloire  de  Lorraine  was  raised  about  nine  years  ago.  It  is  a 
hybrid  between  B.  socotrana    (a  species  discovered  in  the  Island  of 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  17 

Socotra,  by  Professor  Baley  Balfour)  and  the  old  B.  Dregei.  As  a  Win- 
ter bloomer  it  is  perhaps  the  finest  of  all  recent  hybrids.  The  first 
growths  made  by  the  rooted  cuttings  all  go  to  flowers,  afterward  some 
growths  more  or  less  vigorous  are  made  from  the  base.  These  make 
excellent  material  for  cuttings.  Young  plants  are  also  raised  from 
mature  leaves.  The  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  be  well  above  the  sand 
before  being  potted.  The  floriferousness  of  this  Begonia  may  be  partly 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  of  its  being  almost  without  female  flowers, 
and  also  by  the  stamens  producing  little  or  no  pollen.  Among  a  large 
number  of  plants  I  have  Feen  only  a  very  few  female  flowers,  and  these 
are,  so  far  as  noticed,  only  produced  at  the  very  ends  of  the  flowering 
stems.  The  pollen  is  produced  exceedingly  sparingly,  many  of  the 
flowers  having  none  at  all. 

Rex  Begonias,  Leaf  Cuttings  of— After  the  rush  of  propagating  the 
soft  wooded  plants  in  the  Fall  the  cuttings  of  the  Eex  Begonias  may 
be  put  in  the  sand  bed.  Select  the  mature  leaves  of  those  plants  which 
are  growing  in  a  rather  cool  house.  The  pieces  for  cuttings  will  answer 
all  right  if  they  be  cut  in  a  triangular  shape,  three  inches  each  way. 
The  part  to  be  inserted  in  the  sand  should  end  with  one  of  the  thick  ribs 
or  veins  which  are  prominent  on  the  undersides  of  the  leaves.  From  a 
medium-sized  leaf  eight  or  ten  cuttings  can  be  got.  Put  them  in  the 
sand  to  the  depth  of  about  an  inch  and  maintain  a  moderately  humid 
atmosphere  to  prevent  wilting.  Place  in  thumb  pots  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  show  above  the  sand.  The  old  leaves  are  sometimes  used  entire, 
first  by  giving  a  few  cuts  across  the  principal  ribs,  then  placing  them 
flat  on  damp  sand  or  moss.  The  other  method  is  to  be  preferred,  because 
more  plants  can  be  got  from  one  leaf.  It  is  equally  as  quick,  and  takes 
up  much  less  room  on  the  propagating  bench.  So  far  as  color  is  con- 
cerned few  of  the  newer  sorts  are  improvements  over  the  better  known 
kinds,  such  as  Philadelphus,  Inimitable,  Silver  Queen,  Fire  King,  Mrs. 
Rivers  and  Marshall!. 

BOUQAINVILLEA— There  are  at  least  five  kinds  in  cultivation.  B. 
spectabilis  is  as  free  blooming  as  any,  but  only  on  large  specimens.  It 
is  very  useful  for  training  along  the  roof  in  the  same  Avay  as  B.  glabra. 
A  season  of  rest,  followed  by  severe  pruning,  usually  induces  an  abun- 
dant flowering  growth.  B.  glabra  Sanderiana  differs  from  the  tpye 
in  being  smaller  in  the  flower  and  more  floriferous  in  a  small  state. 
Small  specimens  from  cuttings,  rooted  in  the  beginning  of  the  year,  will 
bloom  the  following  Winter;  but  larger  plants  take  a  couple  of  years  to 
develop.  They  should  be  allowed  to  make  their  growth  out-of-doors, 
either  in  the  small  or  large  state.  There  is  not  much  to  be  gained  by 
planting  out,  as  they  make  few  roots.  Plunging  answers  well  enough, 
with  a  shift  in  midseason,  if  necessary.  After  the  plants  are  brought  in- 
doors the  large,  soft  growths  may  be  shortened,  and  an  intermediate 
temperature  maintained  until  the  plants  are  started  into  growth,  when 
more  water  and  heat  are  given.  After  they  have  made  a  start,  doses  of 
weak  liquid  manure  are  beneficial.  When  in  bloom,  gradually  harden  off, 
or  the  flowers  will  fall  in  showers. 


18  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

BOUVARDIA — A  much  grown  Winter-flowering  plant  some  years  ago; 
now  comparatively  few  are  to  be  seen.  Young  plants  are  raised  early 
in  Spring,  from  small  pieces  of  the  roots,  placed  in  flats  of  sand  and  kept 
in  a  warm  house.  For  the  first  week  or  two  cover  the  surface  of  the 
sand  with  damp  sphagnum  moss;  this  will  encourage  the  formation  of 
buds  on  the  roots.  When  the  growths  are  of  sufficient  size,  put  in  2-inch 
pots,  shifting  into  3-inch  pots,  and  plant  outside  during  the  latter  part 
of  May.  To  make  bushy  plants  the  leading  shoots  should  be  pinched 
,  repeatedly.  About  the  middle  of  September,  or  earlier,  according  to 
location,  the  plants  are  lifted  with  balls  of  earth  attached,  and  either 
planted  on  benches  or  put  in  pots.  Keep  the  atmosphere  moist  and 
close  for  the  first  few  days, 'and  the  plants  shaded  from  the  sun.  A  mini- 
mum temperature  of  55  degrees  is  necessary  for  perfect  development. 
Pink,  white  and  red  are  the  prevailing  colors. 

BROWALLIA — B.  Jamesoni  is  a  useful  plant  for  late  Winter  flowering. 
It  is  naturally  alow-growing  soft-wooded  evergreen  shrub,  with  a  rather 
straggling  appearance.  When  grown  as  a  standard  it  is  an  extremely 
ornamental  subject.  For  this  purpose  take  strong  shoots  for  cuttings, 
and  grow  to  single  stems,  removing  the  side  shoots  and  stopping  the 
main  shoot  when  the  desired  height  has  been  attained.  In  Summer  the 
plants  may  be  plunged  in  a  bed  of  ashes  and  frequently  fed  with  liquid 
manure.  They  need  full  sun.  B.  elata  will  bloom  all  Winter  in  a  cool 
conservatory.  It  is  annual  in  duration.  Seeds  should  be  sown  the 
latter  part  of  August;  a  few  in  a  4-inch  pot.  Discard  the  weakest  seed- 
lings, leaving  three  or  four  in  a  pot,  and  shift  into  6-inch  pots  to  bloom. 

BRUNFELSIA— About  half  a  dozen  species  are  common  in  cultivation. 
Out  of  this  number  tliere  are  at  least  two  well  worthy  of  attention  as 
pot  plants— B.  (Franciscea)  latifolia  and  B.  eximia.  The  former  is  very 
free  in  producing  flowers,  and  is  one  of  the  best  plants  to  put  out  in  the 
permanent  bed  of  a  warm  conservatory.  The  plant  flowers  during  the 
late  Winter  months  from  the  wood  made  the  previous  Summer.  On  first 
expanding  the  flowers  are  light  purple,  changing  as  tiiey  grow  older  to 
pure  white.  Old  plants  sucker  freely,  and  if  severed  an  inch  or  so 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  put  in  the  propagating  bed,  they 
will  quickly  form  new  roots  and  develop  into  specimens  large  enough 
for  5-inch  pots  within  a  year.  These  plants  should  be  grown  indoors 
all  the  year  round.  Winter  is  their  resting  period,  and  during  that  time 
they  should  be  watered  but  sparingly.  The  soil  should  be  of  fibry  loam, 
sand  and  lime  rubble;  a  small  quantity  of  leaf  mould  may  be  added.  In 
rooting  any  of  the  kinds,  take  very  large  pieces;  dust  the  cut  part  with 
powdered  charcoal;  allow  it  to  dry,  then  put  in  a  pot  of  dry  sand  and 
keep  dry  till  rooted. 

CALADIUM— See  Bulbous  Plants. 

CACTUS— This  name  is  applied  to  all  the  members  of  the  family. 
Formerly  it  was  the  adopted  generic  name  of  a  large  number  of  plants 
which  are  now  divided  into  several  genera.  Quite  a  number  are  hardy 
in  the  Middle  Atlantic  States,  among  these  are  Opuntia  arborescens,  O. 
BaflnesquiijO.  vulgaris,  O.  missouriensis,  and  one  named  O.  pha*acantha. 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  19 

Some  of  the  gaudy-flowered  greenhouse  kinds,  such  as  Cereus  flagelli- 
formis,  C.  speciosissimus,  and  the  much  admired  night  bloomers  C. 
grandiflorus  and  C.  Macdonaldiae,  when  in  good  condition,  so  far  as  the 
drainage  and  soil  in  the  pot  are  concerned,  may  be  plunged  in  a  sunny 
spot  out-of-doors,  where  they  will  make  growth  much  superior  to  that 
attained  in  the  greenhouse.  If  the  plants  are  in  good  health  wet  sea- 
sons will  do  them  no  harm. 

CALATHEA— Usually  known  as  Marantas.  They  are  grown  solely  for 
their  ornamental  fohage,  nearly  all  of  the  species  having  beautiful 
markings.  It  is  doubtful  if  any  other  genus  shows  greater  variation  in 
this  respect.  Most  of  the  kinds  are  stove  plants,  growing  in  shade  all 
the  year  round,  with  a  minimum  temperature  of  60  degrees.  They  need 
an  abundance  of  water  at  all  times.  In  Winter,  when  the  benches  are 
apt  to  get  dry  quickly,  the  pots  should  stand  on  a  layer  of  sphagnum 
moss.  Some  of  the  species  will  succeed  in  a  temperate  house,  and  a  few 
of  the  stove  kinds  may  be  subjectea  to  a  lower  temperature,  without 
injury,  after  they  have  made  their  growth.  Some  of  the  best-known 
stove  kinds  are  as  follows:  C.  Baraquiniana,  C.  bella,  C.  fasciata,  C. 
Kerchoviana,  C.  Lindeniana,  C.  Makoyana,  C.  albo-liueata,  C.  rosea- 
picta,  C.  spleudida,  C.  zebrina,  and  C.  Veitchiana.  Those  which  maybe 
grown  cooler  are  C.  tubispatha,  a  species  which  loses  its  leaves  and 
goes  to  rest  for  the  Winter;  C.  illustris,  C.  Leitzei,  C.  Massangeana,  C, 
pulchella  and  C.  intermedia.  The  last  two  resemble  C.  zebrina  in  the 
upper  portions  of  the  leaves,  but  the  inferior  margins  are  almost  green. 
None  of  the  species  should  be  allowed  to  flower,  as  this  only  weakens 
the  plants;  and  seed  is  not  necessary,  as  they  all  divide  very  freely.  Dur- 
ing the  growing  season,  if  drained  thoroughly,  they  can  hardly  be  over- 
watered. 

Propagation— Calatheas,  which  are  freshly  divided,  should  not  be 
potted  in  fresh  soil  until  new  roots  have  been  formed.  This  condition 
may  be  brought  in  the  following  manner:  Knock  the  plants  out  of  the 
pots  before  growth  commences;  wash  ;the  soil  from  among  the  roots; 
prune  out  those  not  wanted,  and  divide  into  clumps,  not  too  small,  say 
large  enough  to  go  into  a  5-inch  pot,  and  put  in  the  propagating  bed. 
Let  the  air  be  close  and  moist,  and  the  glass  shaded.  When  a  few  fresh 
roots  have  been  formed  they  take  very  quickly  with  the  soil  after 
potting. 

CALCEOLARIA— The  Calceolaria,  both  shrubby  and  herbaceous,  is  as 
well  known  in  western  Europe  as  the  Zonal  Pelargonium  in  America. 
The  shrubby  kinds  are  there  much  used  in  bedding,  producing  very 
gaudy  effects.  They  delight  in  a  cool,  moist  atmosphere,  and  our  hot 
Summers  make  short  work  of  them.  The  herbaceous  hybrids  are  raised 
from  seeds  sown  about  the  month  of  August.  The  seeds  are  very  small 
and  should  be  sown  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  pressed  down,  cover- 
ing with  glass  until  the  seed  leaves  can  be  seen.  At  all  times  the  plants 
require  a  cool,  airy  spot  when  in  the  greenhouse.  From  the  seedling 
stage  until  the  plants  are  likely  to  get  hurt  by  frost  they  should  be  kept 
in  a  frame.  Greenfly  is  their  greatest  insect  enemy,  and  must  be  pre- 
vented from  gaijiing  a  foothold  on  them  by  fumigation,    Several  of  the 


20  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

species  of  Calceolaria  are  much  easier  to  grow  than  the  hybrids,  and 
some  of  them  are  very  ornamental.  C.  scabiosa?folia  may  be  flowered  a 
few  weeks  from  the  seedling  stage  by  starving  in  small  pots.  It  may, 
however,  be  grown  3  feet  high  by  shifting  when  necessary.  Seeds  may 
be  sown  from  August  to  January.  The  soil  should  be  of  an  open  nature; 
cow  manure  and  leaf  mould  should  form  one-fourth  of  the  mixture. 

CALLISTEMON  SPECIOSUS,  and  one  or  two  other  species,  make  inter- 
esting flowering  plants  in  early  Spring  for  a  cool  conservatory.  Young 
plants  are  gotten  up  from  seed,  but  they  take  a  longer  time  to  flower 
than  when  raised  from  cuttings;  neither  are  they  so  free  blooming. 
They  may  be  treated  much  in  the  same  way  as  Acacias. 

CAMELLIA — Some  old  plants  of  these  relics  of  the  past  will  occasion- 
ally be  found  in  old-established  greenhouses.  They  are  kept,  especially 
the  white  varieties,  solely  for  the  flowers,  which  are  used  in  making  up 
designs.  In  private  and  public  gardens  we  see  them  oftener,  and  in  such 
places  they  should  be  more  grown,  as  they  are  capable  of  making  exceed- 
ingly attractive  displays  during  the  Autumn  and  Winter  months.  The 
varieties  are  perpetuated  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  growths  in  late  Sum- 
mer, or  by  grafting  before  the  growth  starts,  using  stocks  of  strong- 
growing  kinds,  raised  from  cuttings.  Potting  is  best  done  after  the 
flowers  fall  off.  Loam  two  parts,  peat  or  leaf  mould  one  part,  and 
about  one-sixth  of  the  whole,  sand,  will  make  a  good  potting  compost. 
They  thrive  best  with  limited  root  room. 

CANNAS  FOR  WINTER  BLOOniNO— During  Winter  these  plants 
respond  very  readily  when  anything  like  fair  treatment  is  given,  in  the 
production  of  large  heads  of  bloom.  In  fact,  in  a  warm,  sunny  house, 
many  of  the  kinds  are  equally  as  fine  as  they  are  in  Summer,  and  some 
of  them  last  longer  in  bloom,  owing  to  the  conditions  for  the  production 
of  good  flowers  being  more  under'control.  The  orchid  flowered  Cannas, 
that  is,  those  having  C.  flaccida  blood  in  them,  are  not  well  suited  for 
outdoor  work,  as  their  flowers  are  too  soft  to  withstand  the  glare  of 
the  hot  sun;  but  for  pot  plants  in  Winter  they  are  useful.  The  plants 
may  be  started  in  small  pots,  giving  larger  ones  as  growth  is  made. 
They  are  gross  feeders,  and  will  take  rich  soil  supplemented  by  occa- 
sional waterings  with  liquid  manure.  * 

CARLUDOVICA— About  six  species  are  in  common  cultivation.  They 
are  usually  taken  for  palms,  so  closely  do  they  resemble  some  kinds  in 
the  foliage;  but  they  are  not  even  related.  The  one  most  commonly 
grown,  and  perhaps  the  most  useful  for  the  florist,  is  named  C.  palmata; 
in  leaf  somewhat  resembling  a  Livistona.  From  the  seedling  stage  they 
develop  rapidly  into  specimen  plants.  Old  plants  flower  freely.  The 
seeds  are  small  and  thin,  about  the  size  of  those  of  Mignonette.  Wash 
carefully  from  the  surrounding  pulp  and  sow  in  a  box  of  finely  chopped 
sphagnum.  They  germinate  in  three  weeks.  Let  them  grow  in  this 
until  large  enough  to  put  three  round  the  edge  of  a  3-inch  pot,  from 
these  shift  into  5-inch  pots.  With  us  the  plants  are  useful  for  planting 
outside  in  shaded  places  in  Summer,  and  if  slightly  hardened  off  they 
may  be  used  in  decorating.    All  the  kinds  are  stove  plants. 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  21 

CENTRADENIA— Of  this  there  are  three  species,  combining  handsome 
foliage  and  rather  pretty  flowers.  C.  grandifolia  has  the  largest  leaves, 
and  is  the  most  useful  for  decorative  work.  The  other  species  are  C. 
floribunda  and  C.  rosea.  Cuttings  will  root  at  any  time  of  the  year.  To 
get  good  growth  on  the  plants  during  Summer  they  should  be  started 
from  cuttings  in  March.  An  intermediate  house  suits  them;  they  require 
but  little  shade. 

CENTROPOQON— C.  Lucyanum  is  said  to  be  a  bi-generic  hybrid.  The 
parents  are  given  as  Centropogon  fastuosum  and  Siphocampylus  betu- 
laefolius.  It  is  one  of  the  very  best  stove  or  warm  greenhouse  herba- 
ceous perennials.  There  is  no  great  difficulty  in  its  cultivation;  but  it 
is  seldom  seen  in  collections.  The  flowers  are  rosy  carmine,  produced  in 
midwinter.  After  blooming  numerous  small  shoots  will  usually  appear 
along  the  branches;  these  taken  off  with  a  heel  root  w^ith  bottom  heat. 
The  young  plants  will  thrive  in  heat  and  moisture  during  the  first  two 
or  three  months;  they  may  afterwards  be  grown  in  a  frame.  After  the 
blooming  season  is  over  the  old  plants  may  be  given  a  period  of  rest, 
and  then  repotted,  using  a  light,  rich  material. 

CESTRUM  CORYMBOSUn  and  C.  NEWELL!  may  be  used  for  flower- 
ing about  Christmas,  if  young  plants  are  started  about  the  end  of 
August,  the  wood  to  be  taken  from  old  specimens  planted  out.  As  soon 
as  rooted  put  in  3-inch  pots,  afterward  placing  three  together  in  a  6- 
inch  pot  to  bloom.  Keep  in  a  sunny  house,  or  the  plants  are  apt  to 
make  too  much  foliage. 

CINERARIA— For  coming  into  flower  during  March  and  April  sow  the 
seed  during  September.  As  soon  as  large  enough  the  seedfings  should 
be  put  in  2-inch  pots,  and  from  that  time  on  they  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  in  a  pot-bound  state.  The  coolest  house,  with  a  maximum 
amount  of  light  and  air,  is  what  they  need.  Soil  should  be  light  and 
well  enriched. 

CONVOLVULUS— This  genus  possesses  many  weedy  plants  which, 
when  once  they  gain  a  foothold  in  the  garden,  are  difficult  to  eradicate. 
Several  are  very  ornamental  when  in  bloom.  One  of  the  best,  especially 
for  baskets,  an  evergreen,  with  short  pendulous  growths,  is  named  C. 
mauritanicus.  The  flowers  are  blue,  and  about  an  inch  across.  This 
plant  is  usually  increased  by  division,  or  cuttings  of  the  ripe  growths 
early  in  Spring.    Seeds  are  also  offered. 

CORDYLINE— The  greenhouse  Cordylines,  such  as  C.  australis,  C.  indi- 
visa  and  its  forms,  are  best  raised  from  seeds  which  are  easily  procura- 
ble. Sow  thinly,  as  they  they  will  not  require  to  be  transferred  during 
the  earlier  stages  of  growth.  They  are  good  decorative  plants,  from 
5-inch  pot  plants  up,  having  long,  narrow  strap-shaped  drooping  leaves. 
Small  plants  are  useful  for  mixing  with  other  subjects  in  vases  and  bas- 
kets, as  they  stand  full  sun. 

The  ornamental  leaved  kinds,  which  need  a  higher  temperature  for 
their  perfect  development,  are  very  numerous.  Some  of  the  best  known 
are  C.  Baptistii,  C.  Cooperii,  C.  porphyrophylla,  C.  Youngii  and  C.  termi- 


22  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

nalis.  Especially  from  the  last-named  species  many  varieties  have  been 
raised.  Propagation  is  quickest  brought  about  by  cutting  up  the  long 
stems  into  pieces  about  3  inches  in  length;  put  in  warm  sand  and  keep 
moderately  damp.  They  will  throw  up  shoots  from  each  eye;  these 
should  be  taken  off  and  put  in  the  sand  to  form  strong,  fresh  roots,  as 
they  are  provided,  when  attached  to  the  parent  stem,  only  with  very 
weak  roots  and  sometimes  none  at  all.  They  will  root  quickly,  and 
may  be  potted  according  to  their  size,  in  2  or  3-inch  pots,  and  grown  on 
quickly  in  a  high,  moist  temperature.  When  they  reach  a  marketable 
size  the  hardening-off  process  is  necessary,  or  they  will  not  stand  long 
whep  used  for  decorating.  In  C.  neo-caledonica,  C.  brasiliensis  and  C. 
amabilis  the  thickened  root  stocks  may  be  cut  up  into  pieces  along  with 
the  stems  for  propagation.  C.  Cannsefolia  does  not  succeed  so  well  when 
cut  up  into  small  pieces.  It  is  a  splendid  decorative  plant,  standing 
much  rough  usage.  Moss  the  tops  and  afterward  place  pieces  of  the 
stems,  at  least  a  foot  long,  in  the  bench  of  a  cool  house,  as  they  take 
their  own  time  in  sending  up  growths.  The  species  and  forms  with 
highly  colored  foliage  will  need  a  minimum  temperature  in  Winter  of  at 
least  55  degrees.  The  others  will  do  all  right  with  the  thermometer  15 
degrees  lower.  With  the  greenhouse  kinds  loam  should  predominate  in 
the  potting  soil,  but  the  others  should  get  a  greater  quantity  of  leaf  soil. 
For  other  kinds  commonly  grown  see  Dracaena. 

CROTON— The  Croton  or  Codiaeum,  as  it  is  now  called,  has  in  the 
warmer  parts  of  the  country  forged  its  way  to  the  front  as  a  choice  bed- 
ding plant,  and  very  deservedly  so,  as  the  species  and  varieties  are  a 
very  satisfactory  class  of  plants  and  much  easier  to  handle  than  was 
generally  supposed  a  few  years  ago,  when  they  were  coddled  all  the  year 
round  in  hothouses.  Several  of  the  kinds  are  so  easily  grown  that  they 
can  be  got  up  with  as  little  trouble  and  as  cheaply  as 'geraniums;  but 
they  are,  of  course,  not  the  choicest  varieties.  Those  stock  plants  which 
were  planted  out  early  in  May  (that  is  a  safe  period  here,  but,  of  course, 
later  in  colder  latitudes)  will,  by  the  middle  of  August,  have  made  good 
ripened  wood,  which  should  beselected  for  propagating  early  in  Septem- 
ber. The  cuttings  at  that  period  should  be  large  and  put  in  the  bed 
with  only  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves  removed.  Let  them  form  quite  a 
large  bunch  of  roots  in  the  propagating  bed  before  being  potted,  as  they 
are  a  trifle  miffy  to  take  with  the  soil  when  they  have  only  a  scanty 
supply  of  roots— enough  to  comfortably  fill  a  4-inch  pot  will  be  about 
right.  Those  plants  will  need  shifting  during  the  Winter,  and  if  kept  in 
a  warm,  moist  house,  will  be  well  furnished  plants  in  5  and  6-inch  pots 
by  bedding  out  time.  The  principal  batch  of  the  commoner  kinds  for 
bedding  may  be  put  in  by  the  middle  of  January.  The  old  plants  which 
were  lifted  from  the  beds  in  the  Fall  should  be  pruned  back  severely,  and 
all  the  growth  available  for  propagating  selected.  A  good  bottom 
heat  and  a  humid  atmosphere  are  necessary  to  root  the  cuttings  at 
this  time,  as  the  wood  is  not  in  a  very  ripe  condition.  Cuttings  put  in 
at  any  time  should  not  be  taken  from  plants  which  are  dry  at  the  root, 
as  they  are  then  apt  to  lose  leaves  in  the  cutting  bed.  Cuttings  8  or  10 
inches  in  length  root  as  easily  as  the  easiest  rooting  soft-wooded  plants 
if  given  a  good  bottom  heat  and  a  depth  of  4  or  5  iuches  of  sand.    There 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  23 

is  no  necessity  to  have  a  frame;  the  open  propagating  bed  will  answer 
nicely.  Those  plants  which  are  intended  to  be  planted  out-of-doors 
should  have  the  hardening-off  process  begun  by  the  end  of  April;  if 
taken  directly  from  a  hothouse  the  bottom  leaves  will  fall  off.  Old 
plants  which  did  duty  during  the  Summer  months  as  bedders,and  which 
were  planted  out  instead  of  being  plunged  in  pots,  should  be  kept  well 
syringed  after  being  potted  and  housed,  as  they  are  very  liable  to  the 
attacks  of  thrips  and  red  spider.  When  plants  intended  to  be  lifted  in 
the  Fall  are  put  out  in  May,  I  believe  it  is  the  best  plan  to  sink  pot  and 
all.  They  seem  to  thrive  best  with  restricted  root  room  so  that  when 
lifted,  although  a  few  roots  may  be  developed  on  top  and  outside  the 
pot,  it  is  safer  when  lifted  to  shift  them  into  larger  pots  than  to  lift  and 
pot  plants  which  have  been  growing  in  the  soil  of  the  bed.  With  these 
it  is  almost  certain  to  be  the  case  that  a  considerable  number  of  leaves 
will  be  lost.  Most  of  the  finer  kinds  will  need  a  temperature  of  at  least 
60  degrees  by  night,  keeping  the  air  moist  and  giving  water  by  frequent 
sy  ringings.  Large  cuttings  in  the  sand  bed  or  propagating  frame  should 
be  examined  now  and  then,  to  guard  against  thrips  and  red  spider.  If 
these  pests  appear,  a  syringing  with  a  weak  solution  of  the  old  reliable 
Gishurt's  Compound  will  prove  beneficial. 

Ringing  Crotons — This  simple  operation  is  brought  into  requisition 
when  it  is  desired  to  root  the  top  part  of  any  particularly  fine  specimen. 
The  stem  of  the  parent  plant  may  be  destitute  of  leaves  for  a  considera- 
ble distance  above  the  pot,  making  the  plant  comparatively  useless  as  a 
specimen  and  only  useful  as  a  stock  plant.  Ringing,  if  successfully  per- 
formed, will  give  an  almost  perfect  plant  a  foot  or  so  high  with  large 
leaves  right  down  to  the  soil— a  condition  we  can  hardly  hope  for  from 
cuttings.  Moreover,  the  rooted  top  sends  out  such  a  mass  of  working 
roots  that  the  succeeding  growth  is  not  stunted,  but  continues  making 
leaves  every  bit  as  large  as  the  lowest  ones— a  condition  much  to  be 
desired  when  an  evenly  built  up  plant  is  wanted.  Plants,  then,  should 
be  selected  which  have  good,  healthy  tops  with  finely-colored,  well- 
developed  leaves,  and  if  the  bottom  part  near  the  pot  has  lost  its  leaves 
this  is  the  only  use  it  can  be  put  to.  The  house  in  which  the  operation 
is  peformed  should  be  a  warm  one  and  shaded  from  the  sun,  so  that  the 
material  used  to  produce  roots  will  not  dry  up  too  quickly.  Select 
those  pieces  which  are  dormant  or  have  made  their  growth,  because  if 
plants  are  taken  during  the  process  of  making  leaves  they  are  bound  to 
carry  some  disfigurement  afterward.  The  stem  at  the  place  to  be  rooted 
should  be  denuded  of  the  leaves  for  two  or  three  inches  of  its  length,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  remove  a  small  section  of  the  bark;  or,  just  as  good, 
make  an  incision  in  the  wood  upward  of  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
in  length,  and  in  depth  from  one-third  to  one-half  the  diameter  of  the 
stem.  Insert  a  little  sphagnum  moss  to  keep  the  incision  open,  then  tie 
a  small  quantity  around  it,  not  too  much  or  it  will  be  apt  to  keep  too 
wet.  After  being  tied  small  enough,  so  that  the  fingers  can  easily  close 
on  it,  stand  the  plant  back  in  its  place  and  see  that  the  moss  does  not 
suffer  for  want  of  water,  because  should  this  happen  the  tender  tips  of 
the  roots  will  be  lost  and  the  process  of  rooting  will  to  a  certain  extent 
have  to  be  begun  again. 


24  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

As  soon  as  the  roots  show  through  the  moss  the  plants  should  be 
potted,  but  not  potted  in  the  ordinary  way.  Many  pots  are  broken 
trying  to  get  plants  out  of  them,  but  in  this  ease  we  will  have  to  break 
pots  to  get  the  plants  in.  Thumb  pots  are  quite  large  enough  for  the 
first  shift;  and  these  must  be  broken  into  two  pieces  lengthwise.  One- 
half  of  one  pot  and  one-half  of  another  will  not  do,  as  the  pieces  must  fit 
closely,  therefore  break  as  many  pieces  as  are  wanted,  and  lay  the  pieces 
one  on  top  of  the  other  before  beginning  the  operation  of  potting.  Sup- 
ports must  also  be  supplied,  consisting  of  two  sticks,  one  on  each  side, 
and  reaching  to  the  mossed  part  of  the  stem.  On  one  of  the  sticks,  just 
about  where  the  middle  of  the  pot  will  reach,  twist  a  piece  of  wire,  then 
clasp  the  moss  with  the  two  pieces  of  pot,  twist  the  wire  firmly  around 
these  and  then  on  to  the  other  stick.  This  will  keep  the  pot  in  position 
until  the  time  to  sever  the  top  from  the  plant.  This  condition  will  be 
indicated  by  the  roots  appearing  through  the  bottoms  of  the  pots.  If 
the  tops  are  not  of  the  largest  size  they  can  be  cut  off  and  placed  in  a 
close  frame  for  a  few  days  before  potting  on;  if,  instead,  they  are  large,  a 
further  application  of  material  to  the  mossed  part  will  be  necessary. 
For  this  purpose  3-inch  pots  will  have  to  be  used,  and  the  material 
should  be  fibrous  peat,  sand  and  loam  mixed.  When  the  roots  show, 
the  tops  may  be  cut  off.  Stand  the  pots  inside  of  others  of  the  same  size 
in  the  frame,  until  they  recover  to  a  certain  extent,  then  pot  and  keep 
close  for  a  while  longer,  gradually  giving  air. 

CURCULIQO— From  the  general  appearance  of  the  foliage  one  would 
suppose  that  these  plants  were  members  of  the  Palm  family  instead  of 
being  related  to  the  Amaryllis.  The  leaves  resemble  those  which  are 
undivided  of  Cocos  flexuosa.  C.  recurvata  is  the  only  species  grown. 
The  form  with  variegated  leaves  is  one  of  our  handsomest  variegated 
plants.  During  growth  they  require  stove  temperature  for  their  perfect 
development.  They  stand  in  a  dwelling  house  fairly  well.  Propagation 
is  by  division.  Almost  any  kind  of  soil  will  answer;  but  as  the  plants 
need  large  quantities  of  water  the  drainage  should  be  perfect. 

CYCAS — Cycas  revoluta  stems  are  often  spoiled  as  a  result  of  the 
treatment  they  get  in  the  way  of  potting  immediately  after  being  im- 
ported. Having  few  or  no  roots  they  should  not  be  placed  in  large 
receptacles,  as  the  soil  when  once  watered  takes  too  long  a  time  to  dry 
out  and  is  apt  to  become  sour,  which  is  anything  but  a  favorable  con- 
dition to  tempt  the  growth  of  fresh  roots.  Put  the  stems  into  as  small 
pots  as  they  will  go,  leaving  just  enough  space  to  ram  the  soil  tightly 
around  them  with  a  thin  piece  of  wood.  They  will  start  into  growth 
best  when  in  a  warm,  moist  house,  and  require  little  water  until  they 
show  signs  of  sending  up  a  crop  of  leaves.  Plants  of  this  class  make 
their  annual  crop  of  leaves,  not  one  after  the  other,  as  is  the  case  with 
Palms,  but  simultaneously,  and  at  this  period  they  require  close  watch- 
ing, so  that  the  foliage  may  be  prevented  from  being  deformed  in  any 
way  from  insect  attacks,  cold  drafts,  or  coming  in  contact  with  other 
things  during  development.  The  temperature  should  be  higher  at  this 
period  than  at  any  other.  When  roots  are  formed  and  a  suflficient  time 
has  elapsed  after  the  development  of  the  fronds,  the  plants  may  be  given 

uiAtr 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  25 

larger  pots.    A  minimum  temperature  of  50  degrees  will  suffice  during 
Winter. 

CYCLAMEN— Cyclamen  seeds,  to  insure  even  germinating,  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  convenient  after  ripening.  The  seeds  ripen  from  April 
to  June.  The  sowing  season  is  from  September  to  the  beginning  of 
December,  and  the  seeds,  between  the  harvesting  and  sowing  periods, 
should  be  kept  in  an  open-mouthed  bottle,  mixed  with  dry  sand.  Al- 
though the  seed  may  be  held  for  years  it  loses  in  vitality  the  longer  it  is 
kept.  The  best  flowered  Cyclamens  are  varieties  of  C.  persicum.  Several 
named  varieties  are  offered  by  the  large  dealers,  but  when  once  a  satis- 
factory strain  is  secured  the  best  plan  is  to  set  aside  a  few  plants  of  each 
color,  and  by  artificial  pollination  each  flower  will  ripen  a  capsule  of 
seed.  To  have  plants  in  bloom  by  Christmas  the  seedlings  will  consume 
from  12  to  14  months  in  completing  their  growth,  and  during  that 
period  they  should  never  be  allowed  to  rest  by  withholding  water,  or 
be  subjected  to  other  conditions  unfavorable  to  -continuous  growth. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  in  shallow  pan^  or  boxes,  in  light  sandy  soil, 
and  covered  to  very  little  more  than  their  own  depth  with  finely  sifted 
soil  and  sphagnum,  two  parts  of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter.  The 
swollen  root-stock  is  formed  before  the  first  leaf  makes  its  appearance, 
and  when  the  first  leaf  Is  fully  developed  the  seedlings  are  ready  for 
pricking  off.  During  this  process  a  minimum  temperature  of  55  degrees 
will  be  suflicient.  The  seedlings  may  be  put  directly  into  thumb  pots, 
pricked  off  around  the  sides  of  4  or  5-inch  pots,  or  into  shallow  boxes, 
keeping  them  at  all  times  near  the  light,  and  in  as  uniform  a  state  of 
moisture  at  the  roots  as  possible.  By  the  middle  of  May  those  in  the 
most  advanced  stages  of  growth  should  be  in  4-inch  pots.  At  this  time 
they  should  get  the  full  light  from  the  north  side  of  a  house,  the  plants 
being  placed  on  inverted  pots,  and  as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  The 
glass  on  the  south  side  should  be  shaded.  For  Summer  quarters  frames 
are  the  best.  The  bottom  should  have  a  few  inches  of  ashes  to  retain 
moisture.  The  sash  may  be  raised  a  few  inches  above  the  woodwork 
by  running  pieces  of  wood  along  top  and  bottom.  The  best  shading 
device  is  probably  a  piece  of  cloth  fixed  to  a  roller,  so  that  it  may  easily 
be  stretched  over  the  glass  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  or  the 
glass  may  be  covered  with  one  of  the  shading  mixtures.  Heavy  rains 
should  not  strike  the  plants,  but  they  will  be  benefited  by  removing  the 
sash  in  the  evenings,  replacing  them  as  the  temperature  gets  too  warm 
the  following  morning.  Greenfly,  the  cyclamen's  greatest  insect  enemy, 
may  be  removed  by  periodical  syringings,  or  by  scattering  tobacco 
stems  among  the  pots.  The  plants  should  be  shifted  on  as  necessary, 
the  very  latest  ones  getting  their  last  transfer  about  the  1st  of  Novem- 
ber, the  earliest  plants  at  least  a  month  sooner.  Well-developed  speci- 
mens should  easily  fill  an  8-inch  pan.  The  soil  should  consist  of  loam 
mixed  with  lesser  quantities  of  old  manure  and  leaf  mould;  a  little  sand 
and  crushed  charcoal  will  help  to  keep  the  mass  in  a  porous  condition. 
In  potting,  the  corm,  or  swollen  stem,  may  be  half  buried  in  the.soil; 
careful  drainage  is  necessary.  As  soon  as  there  is  danger  from  frost  the 
plants  are  removed  indoors;  and  to  give  good  stiff  stalks  to  the  flowers 


26  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

full  light  and  an  abundance  of  air  sliould  be  afforded  on  all  favorable 
occasions. 

CYTISUS  in  one  or  two  forms  is  mainly  grown  as  a  midspring 
flowering  plant.  Cuttings  are  rooted  in  February.  The  young  plants 
may  be  grown  on  in  frames.  Frequent syringings  are  necessary  to  com- 
bat the  attack  of  red  spider.  Pinch  bacli  the  strong  growths  as  soon  as 
they  show  a  tendency  to  outgrow  the  others.  Keep  cool  during  Autumn 
and  the  early  Winter  months. 

DALECHAMPIA  ROEZLIANA  belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the  Poin- 
settia,  and,  lilve  it,  grown  solely  on  account  of  its  bracts,  which  are  rose 
colored.  It  is  a  warm  house  plant,  but  may  be  plunged  outside  in  Sum- 
mer to  make  abundant  growth. 

DESnODIun  QYRANS— A  plant  of  little  beauty,  but  very  interesting 
because  of  the  movements  of  its  lateral  leaflets,  which  are  continuous  in 
a  suitable  temperature.  Propagated  by  seeds  or  cuttings  in  a  warm 
house. 

DRAC/ENA — D.  Godseffiana  is  a  plant  of  recent  introduction;  the 
leaves  are  short,  somewhat  resembling  in  shape  and  coloring  those  of  the 
old  D.  ijhrynioides.  D.  Godseffiana,  however,  has  the  markings  lighter. 
When  planted  out  in  Summer,  and  well  supplied  with  water,  it  makes 
considerable  growth.  Every  small  twig  may  be  rooted.  Perhaps  the 
best  use  to  which  it  may  be  put  is  in  association  with  small  ferns  in 
pans. 

Dracaena  Sanderiana  I  am  afraid  will  never  occupy  a  very  important 
place  among  decorative  plants,  because  single  plants  do  not  make  much 
of  a  show  in  5  or  6-inch  pots.  On  account  of  its  variegated  foliage  and 
slender  habit  it  can  be  used  among  ferns  and  mosses  for  jardiniere  work. 
Pieces  of  the  stem  with  two  or  three  leaves  attached  root  quickly  with 
bottom  heat.  If  wanted  for  filling  pots  above  5  inches,  three  or  four 
must  be  potted  together. 

D.  Qoldieana  is  a  handsome  stove  plant  with  short,  broad  leaves, 
irregularly  marbled  with  dark  green  and  dull  white.  Tops  may  be 
rooted  and  the  canes  left  to  sprout;  or  they  may  be  cut  up,  sprouted 
and  rooted,  as  in  the  case  of  Cordyline  terminalis. 

D.  fragrans,  the  most  useful  of  the  genus,  grows  12  feet  high,  but 
small  specimens  are  well  furnished  with  leaves.  The  plants  will  stand 
much  rough  usage. 

D.  Lindenii  and  D.  Massangeana  are  variegated  forms.  In  propagat- 
ing, when  the  stems  have  leaves,  cut  into  lengths  with  a  leaf  or  two  to 
each,  and  root  like  ordinary  cuttings.  These  make  stock  plants.  Long 
leafless  stems  should  be  cut  into  lengths  of  about  a  foot  and  buried  in 
warm  sand  and  moss.  They  sprout  freely;  the  sprouts  should  be  taken 
off  and  rooted  afresh  before  potting.  The  plants  need  slight  shade  in 
Summer.  All  three  require  abundant  root  room  and  well  enriched 
porous  soil,  else  they  will  show  a  sickly  yellow  hue  on  the  leaves. 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  27 

DROSERA  BINATA,  the  finest  of  all  the  Sundews,  a  native  of  Austra- 
lia, growing  about  1  foot  in  height,  will  succeed  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Give  soil  same  as  recommended  for  Nepenthes,  covering  with  live  moss. 
This  is  an  exceedingly  attractive  plant  for  private  greenhouses.  In  early 
Spring  the  leaves  catch  myriads  of  male  greenfly;  and  the  plant  may 
be  regarded  as  a  friend  of  the  horticulturist. 

DICHORIZANDRA  THYRSIFLORA— Of  the  Tradescantia  family,  and 
usually  grown  as  a  stove  plant.  In  this  capacity,  unless  given  abun- 
dant root  room,  the  flowers  are  not  produced  in  abundance.  South  of 
Philadelphia  it  may  be  used  as  a  choice  subject  for  the  open  border  in 
Summer.  The  flowers,  of  a  rich  dark  blue  and  the  stamens  yellow,  are 
borne  on  the  upright  shoots  of  the  current  year's  growth,  which  Is  about 
2  feet  in  height.  The  flowering  shoots  may  be  cut  in  pieces,  with  a 
single  leaf  to  each  if  necessary,  and  rooted  in  the  hot  propagating  bed. 
They  may  be  kept  in  a  semi-dormant  state  during  the  Winter,  as  the 
plants  will  form  thick  tuber-like  roots. 

DIEFFENBACHIAS— Some  of  the  old  plants  of  these  ornamental  aroids 
will,  by  the  end  of  Summer,  have  grown  lanky,  bending  over  the  pots, 
with  only  a  few  leaves  terminating  the  stem.  Take  the  tops  off  and  put 
them  in  the  sand  bed;  lay  the  stems  aside  in  a  warm,  airy  place  to  dry 
for  three  or  four  days,  then  cut  them  into  lengths  of  about  2  inches. 
Lay  these  aside  to  dry  for  a  similar  period,  first  rolling  them  in  pow- 
dered charcoal  to  lessen  the  danger  of  decay.  Put  in  a  box  of  nearly 
dry  sand,  cover  over  about  an  inch  and  stand  on  the  floor  of  a  warm 
house.  When  a  few  small  leaves  have  been  made  to  each  sprout,  pot  in 
a  mixture  containing  at  least  one- third  of  its  bulk  of  chopped  sphagnum 
moss;  keep  warm  and  moist.  The  tops,  as  soon  as  fairly  well  rooted, 
should  be  potted,  not  in  ordinary  soil,  but  in  a  mixture  of  chopped 
sphagnum,  manure,  leaf  mould  and  sand.  In  this  mixture  the  roots 
fairly  revel,  provided  a  strong  moist  heat  is  given.  In  potting  Dieffen- 
bachias  put  them  into  as  small  pots  as  possible,  and  when  a  shift  is 
necessary  they  may  be  placed  three  together  in  a  pot,  making  a  well 
furnished  appearance  in  a  comparatively  short  time.  D.  Baraquiniana, 
Jenmanii,  Veitchii,  Bausei  and  grandis  are  among  the  best.  They  won't 
stand  much  rough  usage,  being  somewhat  soft  in  the  foliage;  they  are, 
however,  easily  got  up  in  quantity. 

ECHEVERIA  (COTYLEDON)  GIBBIFLORA  flETALLICA  takes  a  promi- 
nent place  among  serviceable  flowering  plants  during  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. It  is  one  which  is  attractive  either  in  or  out  of  bloom,  and  its 
cultivation  is  unattended  by  any  serious  difliculties.  When  done  bloom- 
ing, which  will  be  in  a  short  time,  its  propagation  may  be  gone  about 
as  follows:  Takeoff  the  top  of  the  main  growth  with  as  much  stem 
attached  as  will  enable  it,  when  rooted,  to  go  2  or  3  inches  into  the  soil; 
to  root  them,  take  as  many  4-inch  pots  as  there  are  tops,  stand  them 
on  the  bench,  put  a  little  moss  in  the  bottoms,  and  then  place  a  cutting 
in  each;  this  will  cause  the  cut  part  to  callus  over  without  the  danger 
of  rotting.  In  a  short  time  the  stems  will  give  out  hair-like  roots,  and 
when  these  are  from  one-half  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  the  cut- 
tings may  be  potted,  using  soil  on  the  dry  side,  and  kept  rather  dry 


28  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

until  the  plants  have  made  roots  enough  to  demand  water.  On  the  old 
stumps  rosettes  of  leaves  will  form,  which  in  time  may  be  taken  off  and 
potted. 

EICHORNEA— The  Water  hyacinth,  Eichorneacrassipesmay  be  utilized 
as  amost  attractive  tub  plant  in  the  following  manner:  Put,  say  three 
plants, in  as  many  5-inch  pots  of  rich  soil;  fill  a  tub  with  water  and  sink 
the  pots  just  under  the  surface.  Beyond  wanting  water  to  replace  that  lost 
by  evaporation  they  will  take  care  of  themselves;  the  surface  will  be- 
come a  thick  mass  of  plants,  with  fresh  flowers  opening  every  morning. 
Although  this  plant  floats  on  water  naturally,  without  the  roots  being 
fixed  in  soil,  it  also  flourishes  in  saturated  ground  at  a  surprising  rate, 
keeps  a  fresh,  green  appearance,  and  produces  myriads  of  flowers;  it  is 
well  worth  a  trial  for  unsightly  marshy  spots. 

Eichornea  azurea  is  an  interesting  relative  of  the  above,  with  darker 
colored  flowers.  It  is  useful  for  planting  around  the  margins  of  ponds, 
covering  quite  a  large  water  surface  during  a  Summer's  growth.  Both 
species  are  easily  kept  over  Winter  by  placing  a  few  on  the  surface  of  a 
warm  tank.    They  increase  very  rapidly  during  early  Spring. 

EPIPHYLLUMS— Epiphyllums  are  usually  grown  as  standards;  that 
Is,  grafted  on  the  stems  of  other  plants.  This  method  is  necessary,  be- 
cause the  branches  have  a  procumbent  habit  when  the  plants  are  on 
their  own  roots.  Rooted  cuttings  may  be  grown  on  and  used  in  baskets 
or  other  hanging  receptacles.  The  species,  three  in  number,  and  the 
numerous  varieties  make  very  handsome  Winter-flowering  plants.  Their 
cultivation  is  simple.  The  stocks  for  grafting  are  usually  Pereskia 
aculeata  and  P.  Bleo.  The  latter  is  the  more  robust  grower,  and  there- 
fore most  suitable  for  tall  specimens,  P.  aculeata  being  used  for  dwarf 
ones.  Cuttings  of  the  Pereskias,  which,  of  course,  belong  to  the  Cactus 
tribe,  may  be  rooted  any  time  after  the  wood  is  fairly  ripe.  They  may 
be  put  in  a  dry  and  warm  part  of  the  propagating  bed,  and  given  water 
only  after  they  show  signs  of  sending  out  roots.  To  graft,  select  stock 
in  which  the  wood  is  sufficiently  firm;  cut  off  the  top  part,  make  a  cut 
down  the  center  for  three-quarters  of  an  inch  or  so,  then  insert  a  piece  of 
the  ripened  growth  of  the  Epiphyllum,  and  run  one  of  the  Pereskia  spines 
through  the  whole  to  keep  it  firmly  together,  or  tie  with  raffia  until  the 
uni^n  is  completed.  This  will  be  effected  in  a  few  weeks  in  a  good 
growing  temperature.  Have  the  Pereskias  in  as  small  pots  as  possible 
at  the  time  of  grafting,  so  that  when  the  union  between  stock  and  cion 
takes  place  the  plants  will  start  growing  quickly  by  being  shifted  into 
larger  pots.  The  potting  mixture  should  be  very  porous,  as  the  least 
stagnation  is  fatal  to  the  roots.  Sandy  loam,  broken  brick,  old  manure 
and  a  little  leaf  soil  will  be  found  best. 

ERANTHEMUn  PULCHELLUM  produces  one  of  our  brightest  blue 
flowers.  It  is  at  its  best  in  the  greenhouse  during  late  Winter.  Put  in 
cuttings  during  early  Spring;  plant  in  the  open  border  as  soon  as 
weather  permits,  lift  and  pot  in  the  Fall.  Splendid  specimens  may  thus 
be  secured. 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  29 

ERICAS— Several  years  ago  the  growing  of  these  plants  in  this  coun- 
try for  commercial  purposes  was  regarded  as  an  impossibility,  even  by 
those  T^ho  were  familiar  with  their  culture  in  Europe.  But  now,  we 
have  them  grown  here  as  well  as  anywhere,  simply  by  studying  their 
needs,  and  carefully  attending  to  their  wants.  Propagation  of  the  sev- 
eral varieties  may  be  effected  during  April  before  the  active  growth  of 
the  season  gets  too  far  advanced.  Have  no  undesirable  vegetable 
humus  or  mud  in  the  sand.  Secure  a  good-sized  bucket,  fill  with  sand 
and  push  the  end  of  the  hose  to  the  bottom,  allowing  the  water  to  run 
with  considerable  force  for  a  few  minutes.  This  will  clean  the  sand  of 
all  impurities.  Pans  or  pots  for  the  cuttings  should  have  perfect  drain- 
age to  within  two  or  three  inches  from  the  surface;  give  about  an  inch 
of  peat  or  leaf  mould  and  sand  at  the  bottom,  covering  with  an  inch  or 
so  of  sand,  which  should  be  made  firm.  Keep  close  under  glass  while 
rooting  at  a  temperature  never  above  60  degrees  F.  During  the  Sum- 
mer months  keep  the  roots  cool  by  plunging  the  plants  in  some  porous 
material,  never  allowing  them  to  get  too  wet  or  too  dry.  It  may  be 
stated  here  that  roots  of  plants  are  divided  into  four  classes — nutritive, 
attachment,  contractile  and  storage.  In  the  Ericas  the  nutritive  roots 
are  most  abundant  next  the  flower  pot,  so  that  an  equable  condition  of 
moisture  is  necessary  to  their  existence. 

E.  persoluta,  E.  melanthera,  E.  gracilis  and  E.  hyemalis,  are  a  few  of 

the  very  many  kinds  grown. 

ERYTHRINAS  which  are  planted  out  in  the  back  part  of  a  cool  frame 
adjoining  a  greenhouses,  for  the  sake  of  their  flowers  in  Summer,  should 
get  a  mulching  of  stable  litter  to  keep  their  roots  snug  for  the 
Winter.  In  the  colder  parts  of  the  country  the  covering  should  extend  a 
foot  or  more  up  the  stems,  so  that  there  will  be  no  dangerfrom  freezing. 
In  pruning  leave  as  much  of  the  stem  as  possible,  only  cutting  off  enough 
to  enable  the  sash  to  slide  into  place.  E.  crista-galli  and  the  variety  E. 
laurifolia,  together  with  E.  Hendersoni,  are  the  best  for  this  purpose. 
Old  plants  which  have  been  bedded  out  for  the  Summer  will  Winter  all 
right  beneath  a  bench,  in  a  cold  house,  with  some  soil  thrown  over  the 
roots.  E.  Parcelli  and  E.  marmorata,  both  varieties  of  Indica,  have 
variegated  foliage. 

Propagation— By  the  beginning  of  February  start  some  of  the  old 
plants  of  E.  crista-galli,  or  any  of  its  forms;  they  are  far  the  best  for 
Summer  work.  If  not  in  pots  the  old  stumps  may  simply  be  covered 
over  at  the  roots  with  moss  and  given  a  minimum  temperature  of  55 
degrees.  Syringe  occasionally  to  encourage  growths  for  cuttings.  As 
soon  as  these  growths  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  4  inches  in  length  take 
them  off  with  a  heel,  put  in  2-inch  pots,  using  a  sandy  mixture,  and 
keep  them  confined  in  a  warm  propagating  case  until  they  root;  shift 
into  larger  pots  and  gradually  harden  off. 

EUPATORIUn  PROBUn  is  the  name  of  a  species  of  this  popular  Winter 
flowering  genus  which  we  do  not  see  much  of,  and  which  may  be  grown 
to  come  in  after  the  well-known  Stevia  serrata  goes  out  of  flower.  The 
flower  heads  are  as  large  as  those  of  S.  elegans.    The  only  drawback  to 


30  STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

its  use  as  a  cut  flower  is  the  clammy  or  viscid  nature  of  the  stems 
and  leaves.  The  plant  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  Peru;  it  was  introduced 
nearly  thirty  years  ago,  but  has  never  become  popular,  supposedly  from 
its  being  confined  to  European  gardens  ever  since.  Two  desirable  Win- 
ter bloomers  with  dark  lilac  or  purple  flowers,  are  known  as  E.  ianthi- 
num  and  E.  macrophyllum.  They  are  of  little  service  for  cutting  from. 
Plant  out  in  late  Spring  after  they  are  done  flowering.  This  will  give 
good  material  for  cuttings  in  September.  E.  macrophyllum  is  the 
stronger  of  the  two.  Cuttings  grown  on  in  a  warm,  sunny  house  will 
fill  5-inch  pots  by  the  first  of  March,  and  have  very  large  panicles  of 
flowers. 

EUPHORBIA  (POINSETTIA)  PULCHERRIMA  — Poinsettias  are  grown 
not  on  account  of  the  flowers,  which  are  small  and  inconspicuous,  but 
for  the  highly  colored  bracts  which  surround  them.  The  flowers  are 
produced  in  midwinter.  Both  for  cutting  and  as  pot  plants  Poinsettias 
are  highly  popular.  There  are  three  kinds  in  cultivation — E.  pulcher- 
rima,  which  is  most  commonly  grown;  E.  p.  plenissima,  having  a  larger 
number  of  bracts,  and  E.  p.  alba,  with  creamy  white  bracts.  The  kinds 
are  propagated  in  two  ways,  from  dormant  wood  and  from  green  cut- 
tings. In  employing  the  former  method  the  old  plants,  after  the  flowers 
have  been  cut,  or  in  the  case  of  pot  plants,  after  the  flowers  have  de- 
cayed, the  stems  should  be  allowed  to  ripen  thoroughly,  by  gradually 
withholding  water  and  subsequently  placing  them  beneath  the  stage  of 
a  warm  house;  while  there  they  should  be  kept  free  from  moisture  at 
the  roots.  During  March  the  canes  which  can  be  spared  should  be  taken 
off  and  cut  into  lengths  of  about  4  inches.  After  the  milky  sap  has 
stopped  exuding  from  the  lower  part  of  the  cuttings,  they  should  be 
washed  in  warm  water  and  dipped  in  powdered  charcoal  previous  to 
being  placed  in  the  warm  propagating  bed.  While  rooting  the  sand 
should  be  kept  on  the  dry  side,  only  giving  enough  water  so  that  the 
roots  will  obtain  sufficient  nourishment.  Instead  of  being  allowed  to 
make  long,  spindling  roots  in  the  sand  they  should  be  potted  in  thumb 
pots  immediately  the  roots  appear.  Put  a  small  quantity  of  rough 
screenings  in  the  bottom  of  each  pot,  and  have  the  soil  (loam  and  sand 
in  equal  parts  is  best)  in  a  fairly  moist  condition,  so  that  a  very  slight 
sprinkling  through  a  flne  rose  will  suffice  for  the  first  few  days.  When 
green  cuttings  are  preferred  the  plants  may  be  started  into  growth  after 
the  ond  of  April.  Shake  the  soil  from  the  roots  and  repot  in  rather  small 
pots.  In  removing  the  old  soil  it  will  be  found  that  the  nutritive  roots 
are  decayed  and  only  the  storage  roots  remain.  On  coming  into  con- 
tact with  moist  soil  these  storage  roots  speedily  send  out  feeding  roots, 
followed  by  the  expansion  of  the  dormant  buds  on  the  canes.  When  the 
growths  are  a  few  inches  long  they  may  be  taken  off  with  a  heel,  potted 
singly  and  put  in  a  close  frame;  or  simply  rooted  in  the  sand  bed  and 
potted  when  roots  are  formed.  If  kept  growing  w^ithout  a  check  plants 
from  green  cuttings  will  give  the  largest  heads  of  bracts.  Batches  of 
cuttings  may  be  put  in  at  intervals  during  the  Summer.  When  well 
started  in  pots  all  the  plants  may  be  placed  in  a  sheltered  position  out- 
of-doors,  but  in  the  full  sun.  When  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  bloom 
get  full  of  roote  clear  liquid  manure  may  be  given  with  good  effect. 


STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  31 

Plants  rooted  during  midsummer  from  green  cuttings  may  be  grown  on 
benches,  much  in  the  same  way  as  single-stemmed  Chrysanthemums  are 
grown.  Before  the  approach  of  cool  weather-  all  the  plants  should  be 
removed  indoors,  as  they  will  lose  their  leaves  on  being  subjected  to 
low  temperatures.  The  wilting  of  the  flowers  of  Poinsettias,  or  rather 
of  the  gaudy  colored  bracts  which  surround  the  flowers,  is  due  to  the 
milky  sap  secreted  from  the  cut  part.  This  hardens  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  and  clogs  up  the  vessels  through  which  the  water  should  ascend 
to  keep  the  flowers  and  foliage  fresh.  A  good  way  to  circumvent  this 
is  as  follows:  Some  little  time  after  the  stems  have  been  cut  and  a 
goodly  quantity  of  the  milky  sap  has  run  out,  cut  off  a  small  piece  from 
the  end  of  the  stem  and  stand  the  cut  ends  in  warm  water  for  a  few 
minutes.  This  will  leave  the  cut  part  free  to  absorb  all  the  water  neces- 
sary for  their  support.  Blooms  which  have  been  drooping  for  a  consid- 
erable time  may  be  revived  in  the  same  way. 

Euphorbia  Elegans  (better  known  as  E.  jacquinia^flora)  is  less 
easy  to  manage  than  the  Poinsettia.  A  start  should  be  made  with  soft 
cuttings,  with  a  heel  or  piece  of  the  old  wood  attached.  They  should 
be  put  in  the  open  propagating  bed  instead  of  a  frame,  as  their  leaves 
are  very  liable  to  decay,  owing  to  the  dampness.  Place  in  2-inch  pots 
and  gradually  shift  on,  keeping  the  plants  in  the  full  sun.  Too  much 
water  at  the  root  should  be  guarded  against.  After  midsummer  the 
plants  may  be  plunged  in  an  open  frame  to  ripen  their  growth,  and 
removed  indoors  before  the  weather  shows  signs  of  getting  cool. 

EURYA  LATIFOLIA  VARIEQATA— Put  in  cuttings  of  this  about  the 
same  time  as  given  for  Azaleas.  It  is  a  plant  very  useful  for  decorating 
and  one  which  we  see  too  little  of.  Give  the  same  treatment  in  Summer 
as  recommended  for  Araucarias. 

EXACUM  AFFINE  is  the  name  of  a  compact  bushy  Gentian-wort, 
which  gives  a.  very  good  account  of  itself  for  Winter  flowering  in  a  mod- 
erately warm  house.  Theflowers  are  bluish  purple  with  yellow  stamens 
protuding  from  the  center  of  the  flower.  It  doesn't  have  the  provoking 
habit  of  some  of  the  Gentians  in  closing  its  flowers  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  day.  Seed  sown  beginning  of  July  will  make  fine  plants  by 
the  Fall.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  may  be  plunged 
in  a  frame,  where  they  will- need  but  little  attention,  as  they  do  not  suffer 
from  an  occasional  drying  out. 

FICUS  ELASTICA  is  one  of  the  most  popular  house  plants,  and  one  of 
the  most  suitable  for  this  purpose.  The  leaves  are  large  and  leathery 
and  not  easily  hurt  through  occasional  neglect.  Complaints  are  some- 
times made  of  plants  losing  their  lower  leaves;  in  old  plants  this  is 
natural,  as  evergreen  plants  have  their  season  of  leaf  shedding.  Young 
plants  will  lose  leaves  through  insufficient  or  too  much  moisture  or  lack 
of  nourishment. 

Mossing  Out-of-Doors— Between  old  stocks  of  rubbers  planted  outside 
and  those  kept  in  pots  there  is  quite  a  difference  in  the  quality  of  growth. 
Those  given  unlimited  root  room  in  the  open  lot  have  a  somewhat  suc- 
culent growth,  with  the  leaves  far  apart,  and  altogether  not  in  the  best 


32  STOVE-  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

condition  for  purposes  of  propagation.  These  may  merely  be  notched 
below  every  second  leaf  previous  to  inserting  in  the  sand  bed  later  on. 
Plants  growing  in  pots  or  tubs  have  much  firmer  growth,  well  ripened, 
with  the  leaves  quite  close  together ;  elegantly  suitable  for  providing 
tops  which  may  be  rooted  in  large  pieces  and  make  salable  plants  in  a 
short  time.  To  go  about  this  operation  successfully  make  preparations 
during  the  first  half  of  August  by  tying  the  growths  to  supports.  Those 
which  answer  the  purpose  best  are  pieces  of  wire  stakes  tied  along  the 
stem,  then  at  the  point  where  it  is  desired  to  root  the  pieces  remove  just 
enough  of  the  leaves  and  make  an  incision  in  the  stem  upward  toward 
the  growing  point.  Insert  a  little  sphagnum  moss,  wait  a  day  or  so, 
remove  the  moss;  bathe  with  warm  water  to  remove  the  congealed  sap, 
which,  if  left,  will  hinder  a  complete  callusing  of  the  cut  part.  Insert 
fresh  moss  and  tie  a  handful  over  the  incision;  keep  moist  until  the  roots 
are  showing  through.  The  pieces  should  then  be  cut  off,  put  in  small 
pots  and  placed  in  a  close  stucture  for  a  few  days  until  the  roots  begin 
to  take  with  the  soil.  Syringe  only  during  that  period.  This  is  a  very 
important  point.  After  potting  either  mossed  shoots  or  cuttings  (if 
the  soil  is  in  a  good  working  condition;  that  is,  neither  too  wet  nor  dry) 
absolutely  no  water  should  be  given  for  a  day  or  two;  the  atmosphere 
kept  moist,  and  an  occasional  syringing  will  be  all  that  is  necessary. 

House=Qrown  Plants— Rubber  plants  which  are  grown  all  Summer  in 
a  house  in  a  moist,  high  temperature,  have  a  very  different  appear- 
ance from  those  which  are  grown  out-of-doors  in  the  full  sun,  and  the 
difference  is  by  no  means  in  favor  of  the  house-grown  stock.  The 
leaves  are  naturally  weaker,  without  the  well-developed  appearance  of 
the  outdoor  grown  plants,  and  if  the  root  conditions  of  the  outside 
plants  are  perfect,  with  a  good  mulch  over  the  sunken  pots,  the  growth 
will  be  every  bit  as  rapid  in  young  plants,  if  not  more  so,  with  the 
addition  of  a  constitution  which  enables  them  to  stand  a  whole  Winter 
in  a  dwelling  house  without  injury.  The  variegated  rubbers  are  indoor 
plants,  as  they  are  apt  to  get  scorched  by  the  sun's  rays  unless  given  a 
partially  shaded  situation.  For  keeping  stock  plants  of  these  varie- 
gated varieties  it  will  be  found  a  good  plan  to  have  them  in  rather 
small  pots  and  encourage  roots  from  the  stems,  especially  from  those  of 
old  plants.  These  stem  roots,  when  they  get  among  a  mixture  of  ma- 
nure and  moss  between  the  pots,  or  even  among  wet  gravel,  make 
astcnishing  growth,  causing  the  plants  to  give  an  abundant  supply  of 
material  for  cuttings,  which  they  are  otherwise  slow  to  do  when  grown 
in  the  ordinary  way.  Cuttings  notched  for  a  few  weeks,  tak5n  off  and 
placed  in  sand  with  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  root  quickly.  Rubber  plants 
will  keep  in  a  dormant  state  even  in  a  high  temperature,  with  abundant 
humidity  in  the  atmosphere,  by  being  kept  dry  at  the  roots. 

Indoor  Rubbers  for  Stock  Plants— Reserve  a  place  at  the  end 
of  a  warm  house  for  large  over-grown  plants.  They  make  quicker 
growth  indoors  during  the  warm  months  than  they  do  outside,  and  for 
the  purposes  of  single-eye  cuttings,  the  wood  is  preferable,  as  the  spaces 
between  the  leaves  are  longer.  They  should  be  planted  in  a  solid  bed. 
If  the  old  soil  be  unsuitable  remove  it  to  a  depth  of  about  18  inches; 
put  some  broken  brick,  clinkers  or  stones  in  the  bottom  for  drainage, 


STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  33 

some  old  leaves  on  top  of  this,  and  fill  up  with  rich  porous  soil.  Plant 
moderately  close  together,  pruning  back  those  which  require  it;  with  a 
few  good  stock  plants  a  plentiful  supply  of  growth  for  cuttings,  or  for 
mossing,  will  be  the  result.  The  rubber  when  well  grown  can  always 
be  depended  upon  as  a  ready  selling  plant. 

Cuttings  root  poorly  sometimes,  and  there  are  several  causes.  Single- 
eye  pieces  are  dibbled  in  an  open  bed  with  the  leaf  pierced  by  a  stick  to 
keep  it  in  an  upright  condition.  During  the  process  of  rooting  the  cut- 
ting is  nourished.to  a  large  extent  by  the  moisture  taken  in  by  the  under 
part  of  the  leaf;  that  is,  when  it  lies  flat  on  the  sand,  which  it  should 
do.  They  will  in  this  position  root  quicker  and  better.  Another  cause 
of  frequent  failure  is  in  taking  the  cuttings  at  the  wrong  time.  The 
plants  have  a  period  of  rest  and  a  period  of  growth.  When  a  shoot  is 
in  the  process  of  developing  a  leaf  rooting  should  not  be  attempted; 
better  wait  till  every  part  is  ripened,  then  rooting  is  an  easy  matter. 
In  potting  off  do  not  allow  the  roots  to  get  beyond  an  inch  in  length 
while  in  the  bed.  They  sustain  injury  easily  when  coming  in  contact 
with  anything.  In  lifting  from  the  bed  place  the  cuttings  in  a  box  with 
the  rooted  ends  resting  on  one  side  of  the  box,  and  not  too  many  of 
them  together.  Use  soil  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  sand.  Two- 
thirds  loam  and  one-third  sand  is  a  good  medium  to  start  with;  3-inch 
pots  should  be  used.    A  shift  will  be  necessary  within  three  weeks. 

Slow  Rooting  Species,  and  there  are  several  of  them  in  common  use 
for  sub-tropical  bedding  In  Summer,  will  be  resting  by  the  end  of  Janu- 
ary unless  they  are  kept  In  a  very  warm  house;  and  In  this  condition 
ringing  and  mossing,  as  the  best  means  of  increasing  the  number,  had 
better  be  attended  to.  Those  which  are  slow  in  taking  root  In  the  cut- 
ting bed,  but  quick  to  respond  to  the  ringing  process,  are  as  follows: 
F.  dealbata,  F.  Porteana  (a  shade  tree  from  the  PhlHpplnes,  by  the 
way),  F.  nymphsefolla,  F.  macrophylla,  F.  ferruglnea  and  F.  eburnea. 
While  on  the  subject  of  Rubbers  I  may  mention  that  for  covering  damp 
walls  In  greenhouses  for  ornamental  effect  Flcus  repens  has  been  em- 
ployed for  a  long  time,  but  there  Is  a  species,  new  to  me,  which  Is  a  bet- 
ter one  for  the  purpose,  judging  by  what  I  have  seen  of  It.  It  Is  named 
Flcus  falcata,  and  Is  well  termed,  as  the  leaves  resemble  nothing  so  much 
as  a  short  knife  blade.  The  plant  grows  very  fast,  has  very  dark  green 
foliage  and  sticks  close  to  the  substance  against  which  It  Is  placed.  A 
good  way  to  start  young  plants  climbing,  so  that  they  may  be  easily 
transferred  to  permanent  positions,  Is  to  fix  the  end  of  a  piece  of  board 
inside  of  a  pot,  allowing  a  space  above  the  pot  6  Inches  broad  and  12 
inches  long;  then  pot  the  young  plants  close  against  the  wood. 

FUCHSIA— Old  plants  of  Fuchsias  should  be  started  by  the  middle  of 
December  to  provide  wood  for  cuttings.  The  plants  should  be  knocked 
out  of  their  flowering  pots,  the  balls  reduced  and  given  fresh  soil.  Place 
them  In  heat  and  syringe  freely.  The  growths  for  cuttings  will  start 
almost  Immediately.  Do  not  take  growths  for  cuttings  which  have 
beeo  on  the  plants  all  Winter,  as  the  wood  Is  bound  to  be  a  trifle  hard 
and  does  not  turn  out  the  best  plants;  better  wait  till  the  growths  are 
tender  enough.    Even  young  growth,  with  the  wood  on  the  hard  side, 


34  STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

does  not  make  good  cuttings.  These  should  be  taken  off  during  the  period 
of  fairly  rapid  growth  and  kept  growing  right  along,  or  they  will  be 
apt  to  remain  stunted  and  come  into  flower  before  the  plant  is  fully 
developed.  Fuchsias  will  bloom  in  3-inch  pots,  but  by  keeping  them  in 
a  growing  state,  with  abundant  root  room,  they  can  easily  be  grown, 
according  to  the  variety,  from  21/0  to  4  feet  in  height,  before  the  flower 
buds  make  their  appearance.  If  wanted  to  bloom  in  5-inch  pots,  pinch 
back  the  leading  shoots,  and  when  the  pot  is  well  filled  with  roots  give 
weak  liquid  manure  frequently.  This  wall  prolong  their  blooming  sea- 
son. A  single  supporting  stick  for  the  main  stem  will  be  all  that  is 
necessary,  with  perhaps  a  few  supporting  strings  for  the  lateral  shoots 
in  the  case  of  those  varieties  having  large  double  flowers.  The  soil 
should  be  well  enriched  with  manure. 

FURCR/EA— A  genus  of  plants  closely  allied  to  the  Agaves.  They 
thrive  with  a  little  more  heat  than  is  usually  given  Century  Plants, 
otherwise  their  cultivation  is  pretty  nearly  the  same.  There  are  about 
ten  species  in  cultivation;  those  most  commonly  seen  are  F.  cubensis, 
F.  gigantea  and  F.  longa^va.  The  varigated  form  of  F.  gigantea  is  an 
exceedingly  handsome  subject. 

GARDENIAS— These  are  only  grown  nowadays  in  general  collections 
of  plants.  In  Summer  young  plants  will  make  good  growth  by  being 
plunged  among  some  porous  material  in  a  frame.  Cuttings  are  taken 
from  ripe  growths.    Plants  will  thrive  in  a  warm,  sunny  greenhouse. 

GLOXINIAS— So  easily  do  the  leaves  of  the  Gloxinia  produce  tubers, 
when  properly  manipulated,  that  it  seems  a  roundabout  way  to  get  up 
a  supply  of  plants  from  seeds.  The  only  drawback  to  the  first-named 
method,  is  that  leaves  are  not  always  available  in  sufficient  quantities 
for  propagating  purposes.  When  plants  are  wanted  in  bloom  before 
midsummer,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  early  Spring.  The  process  of 
raising  seedlings  is  simple  enough,  if  given  the  necessary  attention;  a 
little  neglect,  however,  when  in  the  younger  stages  of  their  growth,  is 
very  apt  to  occur,  and  that  is  the  end  of  them.  The  seedlings  are  very 
fragile  for  some  time  after  germinating,  and  if  the  soil  gets  a  trifle  too 
wet,  or  too  dry,  they  suffer  beyond  repair.  In  preparing  boxes  or  pans 
for  seed,  let  the  soil  be  very  porous  and  light,  leaf  mould  largely  predomi- 
nating. Make  very  firm;  give  a  watering,  then  sow;  and  if  a  covering 
be  given  it  should  be  of  the  lightest  possible  nature.  If  the  atmosphere 
gets  at  all  dry,  cover  the  receptacles  with  panes  of  glass,  to  prevent  dry- 
ing. If  care  be  taken  the  seedlings  may  be  allowed  to  grow  until  large 
enough  to  be  potted  off  singly  in  2-inch  pots,  or  they  may  be  pricked  off 
thickly  into  boxes  previous  to  potting  off.  For  flowering  late  in  Sum- 
mer or  early  in  Fall,  sowings  maj^  be  made  as  late  as  the  beginning  of 
July.  In  propagating  from  the  leaves,  various  methods  are  employed. 
The  one  most  commonly  in  use  is  to  take  the  entire  leaf,  make  incisions 
in  the  under  parts  of  the  principal  veins  (or  they  may  be  cut  through); 
lay  the  leaves  flat  on  the  sand  with  the  stalk  buried,  and  give  only 
enough  water  to  prevent  drying  up.  Small  tubers  will  form  at  the  inci- 
sions and  at  the  end  of  the  stalk.  During  this  process  no  leaves  are 
formed,  and  the  tubers  should  be  harvested  and  rested  for  the  Winter  in 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  35 

dry  sand.  This  operation  is  best  performed  after  midsummer.  Another 
good  method  to  get  up  stock  of  extra  fine  varieties  from  leaves,  is  to 
cut  them  in  sections  resembling  the  letter  V,  the  lower  part  to  consist  of 
at  least  an  inch  of  the  midrib,  and  the  leaf  cut  obhquely  to  the  margin. 
Treat  them  similarly  to  the  triangular-shaped  cuttings  of  the  Rex  Bego- 
nias, so  far  as  potting  them  in  the  sand  goes;  but  keep  on  the  dry  side 
w^hile  forming  tubers.  Smaller  tubers  are  made  by  this  method  than  if 
the  leaves  were  laid  flat  on  the  sand;  consequently  it  should  only  be 
used  when  it  is  desired  to  make  the  most  of  extra  good  kinds.  Old 
tubers  are  successfully  wintered  over  in  the  pots  in  which  they  have 
flowered;  or,  to  save  room,  they  may  be  taken  from  the  pots,  the  soil 
removed,  and  stored  in  boxes  of  dry  sand,  keeping  in  a  minimum  temper- 
ature of  60  degrees.  In  starting,  bring  to  the  light  and  give  water,  pot- 
ting up  when  about  an  inch  of  growth  has  been  made. 

Diseases— The  plants  are  liable  to  the  attacks  of  a  disease  concerning 
which  little  appears  to  be  known.  It  first  shows  itself  in  tlie  leaves, 
small  brownish  spots  appearing,  as  if  the  foliage  had  been  burned  by  the 
sun.  The  diseased  surfaces  gradually  enlarge  until  the  health  of  the 
plant  suffers  to  such  an  extent  as  to  stop  the  growth  of  the  flower  buds. 
Probably  careless  watering  at  the  roots  has  something  to  do  with  the 
trouble.  Each  plant  should  be  examined  at  least  once  a  day,  because 
the  broad  leaves  lying  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  are  apt  to  hide  a  very 
dry  ball;  and  if  the  plants  go  without  water  for  any  length  of  time 
when  dry  their  usefulness  is  ended. 

Soil— The  Gloxinia  is  fond  of  leaf  soil,  and  it  may  be  used  to  the  extent 
of  one-half  the  bulk,  loam,  sand  and  cow  manuremaking  up  the  balance. 
They  are  not  deep-rooting  plants.  Large  seed  pans  should  be  provided 
for  the  full-sized  tubers.  In  saving  seeds  the  capsules  should  be  carefully 
watched  else  the  seeds  will  be  lost.  Up  to  the  time  of  bursting  open  the 
seed  vessels  are  green;  they  split  down  the  middle,  suddenly  exposing 
the  seeds,  which  are  easily  displaced. 

GREVILLEA  ROBUST  A— This  would  be  a  popular  plant  were  it  not 
that  its  general  appearance  is  suggestive  of  the  rag-weed.  It  is  a  first- 
class  house  plant,  and  one  very  easy  to  get  up.  Seeds  are  sown  in 
March.  Pot  singly  when  quite  small,  and  when  in  3-inch  pots  plunge  in 
a  frame  until  large  enough  for  5-inch  pots.  The  plants  will  stand  the 
full  sun.    A  cool  greenhouse  will  suit  them  in  Winter. 

HAriELIA  PATENS— A  tender  shrub  very  well  suited  for  growing  in 
tubs.  When  the  plants  are  in  good  health  they  are  covered  with  flowers 
during  the  greater  part  of  Summer.  Propagated  from  ripe  wood  in 
early  Spring. 

HEDYCHIUn— These  have  long  been  grown  in  conservatories,  where 
plenty  of  room  is  at  command.  In  small  conservatories  they  are  not 
desirable.  H.  coronarium  has  pure  white,  sweet-smelling  flowers.  H. 
Gardnerianum  and  its  hybrid  form  are  useful  for  planting  near  the  mar- 
gins of  ponds,  where  their  roots  get  an  abundant  water  supply.  They 
may  be  rested  under  a  bench  during  Winter. 


36  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

HEERIA  ROSEA  and  H.  ALBA  are  easily  managed  greenhouse  plants. 
They  may  be  depended  upon  to  give  a  liberal  supply  of  bloom  in  Win- 
ter and  Spring  if  they  get  anything  like  fair  treatment.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  cuttings  taken  from  soft  wood  in  the  Fall. 

HIBISCUS— The  varieties  of  H.  rosa-sinensis  make  first-class  tub 
plants.  When  thus  cultivated  they  need  liberal  feeding,  being  robust 
growers;  and  as  the  flowers  are  produced  on  the  young  wood  there  has 
to  be  an  abundant  supply  of  this  to  have  them  looking  at  their  best. 
With  the  help  of  liquid  manure  bushes  will  thrive  in  the  same  tubs  for 
years.  Autumn-struck  cuttings,  if  grown  on  during  Winter,  will  give  6- 
inch  pot  plants  by  Spring.  The  varieties  known  as  H.  brilliantissimum 
and  H.  grandiflorus  are  the  best  singles  among  the  crimson  varieties. 
There  are  double  reds,  yellows  and  pinks;  among  the  latter  is  "  Peach 
Blossom,"  which  I  grew  for  the  first  time  last  year.  It  has  exceedingly 
attractive  flowers;  the  name  describes  the  color  of  the  flower  well.  The 
plant  blooms  in  a  small  state.  All  of  the  kinds  delight  in  a  soil  having 
a  fair  proportion  of  leaf  mould.  A  quantity  of  crushed  bone  may  be 
added  when  the  plants  have  to  occupy  the  pots  or  tubs  for  any  length 
of  time.  The  varieties  of  H.  rosa-sinensis  should  be  given  a  trial  out-of- 
doors;  they  grow  and  flower  very  luxuriantly.  They  may  be  kept  dur- 
ing Winter  in  a  structure  from  which  frost  is  excluded.  In  a  low  tem 
perature,  and  kept  dry  at  the  roots,  they  are  deciduous. 

HYDRANGEAS  FOR  POTS — Hydrangea  hortensis  and  its  varieties  may 
be  propagated  either  in  Spring  or  Fall.  When  the  work  is  done  in 
Spring  the  cuttings  must  be  taken  from  plants  which  are  being  forced  in 
the  greenhouse,  the  wood  of  which  is  in  excellent  trim  for  the  produc- 
tion of  strong,  healthy  roots.  Those  shoots  which  show  no  signs  of 
blooming  are  the  ones  to  be  taken  for  propagation.  The  cuttings  root 
very  readily  if  given  a  syringing  overhead  two  or  three  times  daily. 
Pot  in  3-inch  pots  and  plant  out  from  these  about  the  middle  of  May. 
Or  the  plants  may  be  potted  into  5-inch  pots  and  plunged  in  well-rotted 
stable  manure.  They  are,  however,  easier  looked  after  in  the  field,  and 
there  make  plants  every  bit  as  good.  Moreover,  when  lifted  and  potted 
they  can  be  given  fresh  soil,  which  will  suit  them  when  taken  in  to  force 
in  the  beginning  of  the  year;  whereas  those  in  pots  may  not  require 
shifting,  so  far  as  their  size  is  concerned,  and  yet  be  benefited  by  fresh 
soil  Where  Hydrangeas  will  stand  the  Winter  some  of  each  kind  should 
be  planted  out  permanently,  so  as  to  give  an  abundant  supply  of  mate- 
rial for  cuttings.  These  cuttings  should  be  taken  during  the  Autumn 
months,  encouraged  to  fill  their  pots  with  roots,  and  then  go  to  rest. 
When  given  a  shift  from  3-inch  into  5-inch  pots,  and  brought  gradually 
into  warmth,  they  develop  very  large  heads  of  bloom,  and  toward  the 
latter  part  of  their  development  liquid  manure  is  necessary. 

Forcing— To  have  the  forms  of  Hydrangea  hortensis  in  bloom  early 
those  plants  which  have  been  kept  cool  will  by  the  middle  of  January 
have  lost  their  foliage,  but  if  any  remain  cut  it  off  to  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  stem.  The  plants,  whether  in  4,  5,  or  6-inch  pots,  which 
show  that  an  increased  size  may  be  given,  will  stand  the  operation  bet- 
ter if  the  roots  are  disturbed  as  little  as  possible.    The  same  size,  or 


STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  37 

those  larger,  which  cannot  be  shifted  and  the  ball  preserved  intact,  are 
beet  reduced  wheu  the  soil  is  somewhat  dry.  Put  in  a  cool  house  after 
potting,  watering  only  to  settle  the  soil;  and  syringe  in  order  to  start 
into  growth.  After  a  start  has  been  made  the  heat  and  watering  may 
be  increased,  and  as  the  growth  increases,  weak  manure  water  may  be 
given  frequently. 

iriANTOPHYLLUM — An  indispensable  plant  for  private  collections; 
grows  best  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  Large  plants  need  shifting  only  at 
long  intervals,  and  for  this  reason  the  soil  should  have  a  good  sprink- 
ling of  crushed  bone  and  chtircoal.  Increased  by  division.  I.  miniatum 
and  its  forms  are  the  finest. 

INQA  PULCHERRIMA — For  flowering  in  a  cool  greenhouse  during 
March  and  April,  but  only  in  roomy  structures,  there  are  few  things  to 
surpass  this  in  the  brilliancy  of  the  flowers.  These  are  arranged  in  heads 
with  an  enormous  number  of  stamens,  which  are  the  principal  attrac- 
tion.   Take  cuttings  in  February. 

IXORAS— This  is  hardly  a  genus  for  the  florist  to  deal  with,  as  the 
plants  take  more  care  than  the  prices  obtained  for  them  would  permit. 
There  are  numerous  species  and  varieties,  all  of  which  are  attractive 
when  well  done.  In  the  latitude  of  Washington,  D.  C,  they  make 
growth  best  when  plunged  outside,  and  some  of  them  flower  profusely 
out-of-doors.  I.  Colei  is  a  good  white;  I.  Williamsii,  I.  coccinea,  I.  Chel- 
sonii  and  I.  picturata  are  all  very  reliable  species.  They  will  thrive  in 
the  warmest  house  during  Winter.  Peat,  sand,  and  a  little  loam  will 
make   a    suitable   soil.     Cuttings    should    be    put   in    during    March. 

JASMINUM  QRANDIFLORUM— Although  there  are  other  meritorious 
species,  this  is  the  one  usually  grown.  Plant  out  the  young  stock  in 
May,  and  by  the  end  of  September  they  should  be  lifted  and  potted. 
Keep  in  an  intermediate  house.    The  plants  will  stand  full  sunshine. 

JUSTICIA  (SCHAUERIA)  CALYTRICHA— One  of  the  best  Winter  flower- 
ing species,  producing  yellow  flowers  in  large  heads.  Cut  back  after 
blooming  to  encourage  growth  for  propagation.  Keep  the  young 
plants  in  the  greenhouse  during  Summer,  as  they  are  not  of  a  robust, 
growing  nature. 

J.  (Jacobinia)  carnea  and  J.  rosea — Cuttings  of  these  should  be  put 
in  at  the  end  of  January;  they  root  in  a  few  days.  The  young  plants 
should  then  be  grown  on  and  used  for  Summer  flowering  in  the  green- 
house.   Almost  any  porous  soil  will  suit  them. 

LIBONIA  PENRHOSIENSIS  is  a  charming  Winter  flowering,  dwarf 
evergreen  shrub.  Its  culture  is  of  the  easiest  description,  and  almost 
any  soil  will  suit  the  plant.  Put  cuttings  in  the  warm  propagating  bed 
during  the  latter  part  of  February;  plant  out  middle  of  May  to  make 
growth;  lift  middle  of  September  and  flower  in  a  moderately  warm 
greenhouse. 

LOPEZIA  RACEHOSA  (Mosquito  Plant)  makes  an  exceedingly  weedy 
growth  outside  in  Summer.    Cuttings  put  in  the  beginning  of  Septem- 


38  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

ber,  and  the  plants  kept  in  a  sunny  greenhouse  with  a  minimum  tem- 
perature of  45  degrees,  will  give  an  amazing  supply  of  bloom  all  Winter. 
This  plant  is  desirable  only  for  private  collleetions. 

MAHERNIA  GLABRATA— A  dense-growing,  dwarf  evergreen  shrub, 
with  small  yellow  flowers  produced  late  in  Winter.  The  flowers  have 
an  odor  much  resembling  that  of  the  violet.  The  cuttings  should  be 
made  large,  at  least  G  inches  in  length.  They  should  be  taken  before 
growth  begins.  The  roots  are  sparingly  produced.  Put  the  rooted  cut- 
tings at  the  sides  of  the  pots,  so  that  they  will  take  easily  with  the  soil. 

MALVAVISCUS  MOLLIS  and  M.  ARBOREUS  are  greenhouse  plants 
which  in  Winter  take  up  too  much  room  as  specimens,  and  should  not 
be  growu  for  that  purpose,  as  the  flowers  are  not  freely  produced.  For 
outdoor  planting  they  are  good  subjects,  making  a  large  mass  of  foliage 
dotted  here  and  there  with  bright  red  flowers.  The  new  M.  lanceolatus 
from  Mexico  is  the  best  for  Winter  flowering.  The  leaves  are  different 
in  shape  from  those  of  the  two  first-named  species,  and  it  blooms  more 
freely.    Cuttings  of  all  three  root  with  the  treatment  given  Coleus. 

MARANTA— Of  this  genus  M.  smaragdina  and  M.  Porteana  are  the 
best.  When  well  grown  they  are  among  the  most  ornamental  foliaged 
plants  in  cultivation.    For  culture  see  Calathea. 

riEDINILLA— This  magnificent  fiowering  plant  must  have  a  high  tem- 
perature, and  should  be  in  every  collection  of  stove  plants.  The  flowers 
are  arranged  in  large,  drooping  racemes.  Cuttings  root  well  when 
placed  in  a  pot  of  loose  moss,  in  a  warm  frame,  or  on  a  well-shaded 
bench  of  a  warm  house.  M.  magnifica  is  the  species  most  commonly 
seen. 

riETROSIDEROS  ROBUSTA  and  fl.  SEMPERFLORENS  are  flowered 
from  imported  plants.    The  treatment  given  for  Acacias  will  suit  them. 

MONSTERA  DELICIOSA— There  are  several  excellent  house  plants 
which  are  very  little  known,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  experienced  in 
propagating  them  in  sufficient  quantities.  Among  the  best  of  this  class 
is  the  Monstera,  a  subject  almost  unique  in  the  vegetable  kingdom, 
owing  to  the  broad  leaves  having  perforations  all  over  their  surfaces. 
It  iioeds  little  pot  room,  but  plenty  of  water;  in  fact,  the  pot  may  be 
placed  in  a  saucer  of  water.  It  will  continue  to  throw  up  leaf  after  leaf 
in  a  dwelling  house  just  as  well  as  if  in  a  conservatory,  the  bright  emer- 
ald green  of  the  young  leaves  contrasting  well  with  the  deeper  color  of 
the  older  ones.  The  easiest  method  of  propagation  is  to  cut  up  the  old 
stems  to  single  eyes,  and  place  in  sand,  in  a  warm  house,  where  the  cut- 
tings sprout  in  a  few  weeks. 

MUSA  COCCINEA  is  sometimes  grown  for  its  brilliant  red  bracts.  It 
is  a  dwarf  species  and  needs  stove  temperature.  For  other  species  see 
Bedding  Plants. 

nUSS/ENDA  FRONDOSAand  H.  LUTEOLA  are  handsome  warm  green- 
house plants,  cultivated  for  their  colored  bract-like  growths. 


STOVE  AXD   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  39 

NEPENTHES— These  are  known  as  East  India  Pitcher  plants.    In 
their  native  habitats  they  grow  as  vines.    Under  cultivation  they  are 
usually  seen  as  dwarf,  pot  or  basket  plants.    Nepenthes  are  very  suita- 
ble for  suspending  from  the  roof  of  a  greenhouse,  as  then  the  curiously- 
shaped  appendages,  or  "pitchers,"  attheendsof  the  leaves  are  best  seen. 
Moreover,  some  of  the  kinds  have  long  leaves,  and  when  the  pitchers  are 
half  filled  with  liquid  they  hang  lower  than  the  base  of  the  pot  or  bas- 
ket.   In  this  case  the  plants  must  be  suspended  from  the  roof.    Their 
cultivation,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  species,  is  not  difficult.    There 
are  between  30  and  40  species,  found  principally  in  the  East  Indian 
Islands.    The  temperature  should  not  fall  below  65  degrees  at  any  time 
of  the  year,  and  from  this  it  may  rise  to  90  degrees  with  safety.    At  all 
times  I  prefer  growing  these  plants  with  as  little  ventilation  as  possible, 
as  under  those  conditions  growth  will  be  more  vigorous  and  a  heavier 
crop  of  pitchers  will  be  the  result.     Pruning  is  a  very  important  matter 
in  their  cultivation.    With  the  possible  exception  of  N.  bicalcarata,  none 
of  the  kinds  should  be  allowed  to  grow  over  a  foot  high.    When  a  few 
pitchers  have  been  formed,  or  are  forming  on  a  shoot,  cut  the  end  out; 
this  will  very  materially  help  iu  the  development  of  those  in  process  of 
formation,  and  will  cause  new  shoots  to  burst  out  on  which   more 
pitchers  will  be  borne.    The  material  in  which  to  grow  Nepenthes  should 
consist  of  fibrous  peat  and  sphagnum  in  equal  parts.    Charcoal,  crushed 
bone  and  sand  in  small  quantities  may  be  added.    During  the  growing 
season  the  plants  must  never  be  fallowed  to  get  dry  at  the  roots.    One 
and  two-year-old  specimens  are  the  most  satisfactory,  although  some 
of  the  kinds  will  keep  in  good  condition  as  long  as  they  have  good 
material  in  which  to  make  fresh  roots.    Shade  during  bright  sunshine, 
and  syringe  frequently.    The  sexes  are  on  different  plants,  and  so  far  as 
I  have  observed  all  the  species  and  varieties  will  intercross.    Seeds  are 
sown  on  a  finely  prepared  surface  of  chopped  moss,  covered  with  glass. 
As  soon  as  they  can  be  handled  the  seedlings  are  pricked  off  in  small 
pots.    Cuttings  should  be  taken  from  the  half-ripened  shoots  about  the 
beginning  of  December;  they  should  be  cut  to  single  eyes  only  when  a 
large  number  of  plants  are  wanted.    Terminal   growths,  short  and 
stocky,  make  the  finest  plants,  and  in  a  much  shorter  time  than  single- 
eye  cuttings.    In  a  propagating  frame,  with  a  bottom  heat  of  80  de- 
grees, plunge  the  cuttings  in  sphagnum;    they  may  be  either  pushed 
through  the  hole  of  an  inverted  thumb  pot  or  put  in  small  pots,  using  a 
rooting  medium  composed  of  sphagnum,  sand  and  charcoal.    I  much 
prefer  the  first  method.    Many  beautifully  marked  hybrids  have  been 
raised  in  recent  years;  these  are,  as  a  rule,  easiest  grown.    N.  Masters- 
iana  is  one  of  the  best;  N.  Dominiana,  N.  Henry  ana,  N.  Williamsii,  N. 
Outramiana,  N.  Siebrechtii  and  N.  Amesiana  are  all  well  worth  growing. 

NERIUM  (OLEANDER)— Much  grown  as  a  tub  plant,  for  which  it  is 
well  suited.  Old  plants  should  be  kept  as  dormant  as  possible  during 
the  Winter.  Cuttings  are  rooted  early  in  the  season,  and  plunged  out- 
side when  established  in  pots. 

OCHNA  MULTIFLORA  is  an  interesting  and  beautiful  cool  greenhouse 
shrub.    The  flowers  are  yellow.    The  calyx,  at  first  green,  changes  to  a 


40  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

brilliant  red  on  the  ripening  of  the  fruit.    Propagated  by  Fall-struck 
cuttings. 

ORCHIDS— Although  there  is  an  immense  number  of  species  and  forms 
of  orchids  few  of  them  are  grown  solely  for  their  cut  flowers.  Most  of 
them  produce  flowers  but  sparingly,  and  are  chiefly  grown  in  private 
collections.  A  large  number  being  hybrids  very  few  of  each  kind  are  in 
cultivation;  only  those  species  and  their  varieties  which  are  procurable 
in  large  quantities  from  their  native  haunts  are  grown  for  cutting  from. 
Under  favorable  circumstances,  and  when  their  w^ants  are  understood, 
Orchids  are  as  easily  grown  as  any  other  class  of  plants.  The  epiphytal 
class  has  a  growing  and  a  resting  period.  During  growth,  as  a  rule, 
they  need  lots  of  water,  and  when  resting  they  are  kept  on  the  dry  side 
so  as  not  to  start  shoots  at  the  expense  of  the  flowers.  Shading  is 
necessary  as  the  sun  gets  powerful,  and  a  stagnant  atmosphere  must  be 
avoided  at  all  times. 

Potting  material— This  is  mainly  to  supply  a  reservoir  for  moisture 
during  the  growing  period,  and  should  consist  of  chopped  fern  roots,  at 
least  six  months  old  before  using,  live  sphagnum,  charcoal  and  broken 
pots.  If  grown  in  pots  or  pans  these  should  be  filled  two-thirds  vrith 
crocks,  the  plant  elevated  above  the  rim  of  the  pot,  using  lumps  of  the 
fern  root,  pieces  of  charcoal  and  finishing  off  with  a  thin  layer  of  live 
sphagnum.    The  best  time  to  pot  is  before  the  plants  start  growth. 

Calanthe— This  is  not  an  epiphyte,  but  a  terrestrial  Orchid  growing 
among  soil.  It  responds  very  readily  to  good  treatment.  As  the 
demand  for  Orchid  flowers  is  on  the  increase  this  must  eventually  be- 
come a  popular  genus.  It  is  one  of  the  few  which  allows  of  being  prop- 
agated freely.  Loam,  peat,  sphagnum  and  well-decayed  cow  manure, 
with  a  little  sand  added,  will  form  a  good  mixture.  Good  drainage  is 
necessary,  as  the  plants,  while  growing,  need  heavy  waterings.  During 
the  growing  season  a  high  temperature  is  necessary,  lowering  it  and 
curtailing  the  supply  of  water  when  growth  is  completed.  When  done 
blooming  either  shake  the  plants  from  the  soil  and  stand  them  in  empty 
pots,  or  withhold  water  from  the  roots.  They  should  be  started  in 
March.    Careful  watering  is  necessary  at  first. 

Cattleyas— These  are  the  most  popular  Orchid  flowers  at  present, 
owing  to  their  large  size  and  delicate  colorings.  C.  crispa  is  in  flower 
during  July  and  later;  C.  labiata  comes  in  during  November.  C.  Triana^ 
and  C.  Mossiae  are  the  most  profltable,  as  they  bloom  at  a  season  when 
there  is  a  demand  for  the  flowers.  Of  both  species  there  are  numerous 
varieties.  C.  Trianoe  is  in  season  from  November  to  February,  C.  Mossiae 
in  May. 

Ccelogyne  cristata — If  kept  in  a  healthy  condition  at  the  roots  this  is 
a  very  free  bloomer.  The  potting  material  should  be  examined  after  the 
flowers  are  gone,  and  if  decayed  replace  with  fresh  material.  In  largo 
specimens  this  is  a  tedious  operation.  A  good  size  for  flowering  may 
go  into  10-inch  pans.  By  the  beginning  of  June  we  place  our  plants 
under  the  shade  of  trees  for  four  months,  where  they  develop  splendid 
growth.     Their  flowering  season  in  during  February  and  March,  and 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  41 

immediately  after,  the  shoots  begin  to  push  out.  This  species  is  easily 
divided.  New  growths  sometimes  push  out  not  only  from  the  base  of 
last  year's  pseudo-bulb,  but  also  from  those  of  the  two  previous  seasons. 

Cypripedium,  the  ''ladies'  slippers,"  are  terrestrial  and  mostly  ever- 
green (our  native  species  being  herbaceous).  The  evergreen  kinds  need 
copious  supplies  of  water  while  growing,  and  even  during  the  resting 
season  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  dry.  They  may  be  grown 
largely  in  peat  and  sphagnum.  C.  insigne,  the  one  most  frequently  met 
with,  is  best  grown  cool.  It  should  be  kept  outdoors  during  Summer, 
and  to  retard  the  flowering  period  may  be  kept  in  well-aired  frames 
until  there  is  danger  from  frost.  C.  Spicerianum  requires  a  warm  tem- 
perature, flowering  in  early  Spring. 

Dendrobium  nobile  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  easiest  grown  of  the  den- 
drobes.  D.  formosum  giganteum  is  an  evergreen  and  requires  heat.  D. 
Phalsenopsis  is  one  of  the  finest  for  cutting,  giving  long  stems  without 
injuring  the  plant. 

Lselia  anceps  makes  its  growth  from  April  onward.  It  is  an  abun- 
dant bloomer,  but  on  account  of  its  resemblance  to  some  of  the  Cattleyas, 
and  having  smaller  flowers,  it  is  not  so  popular.  Flowers  in  November 
and  December. 

Odontoglossum— With  the  exception  of  O.  citrosmum  the  species  of 
this  noble  genus  have  a  struggle  for  existence  in  this  latitude.  Further 
North  they  succeed  better.    O.  Alexandras  is  one  of  the  most  popular. 

Oncidiutn  varicosum  and  O.  v.  Rogersii — Both  bear  large  panicles  of 
pale  yellow  flowers.  Both  are  natives  of  Brazil,  blooming  during  early 
Winter. 

PALMS — This  order  furnishes  the  most  important  of  our  decorative 
plants.  Out  of  the  large  number  of  known  species,  comparatively  few 
are  in  cultivation,  and  of  these  a  very  limited  number  is  grown  by  the 
florist  for  this  special  line  of  work.  Those  kinds  which  are  raised  in 
quantity  are  selected  partly  because  they  are  easily  and  quickly  grown. 
The  seeds  are  obtainable  in  large  quantities,  and  because  the  plants  are 
exceedingly  ornamental,  and,  as  a  rule,  stand  rough  usage,  to  a  certain 
extent,  without  showing  bad  effects.  Palms  may  be  divided  into  two 
sections— those  with  pinnate  or  feathered  leaves  and  those  with  palmate 
or  fan-shaped  leaves.  Latania,  Livistona,Chamgerops,  Rhapis,  Corypha, 
Licuala  and  Thrinax  are  familiar  examples  of  the  section  having  fan- 
shaped  leaves;  while  the  feather-leaved  section  is  represented  by  Kentia, 
Phoenix,  Areca,  Arenga,  Cocos  and  Seaforthia.  The  commercial  kinds 
are  grown  in  very  large  quantities  by  several  firms,  and  so  cheaply  are 
they  offered  that  it  does  not  pay  to  raise  the  seedlings  in  small  quanti- 
ties. For  collections  rather  lengthy  lists  of  species  are  offered  by  several 
European  seedsmen.  The  seeds  should  be  covered  to  about  twice  their 
thickness  in  sandy  soil  and  kept  fairly  moist  and  warm  until  they  ger- 
minate. The  drainage  in  the  seed  pan  should  be  of  such  a  nature  that 
the  roots  can  be  easily  removed  from  it,  as  very  little  is  gained,  by  pot- 
ting in  a  very  young  stage.  In  this  section  of  the  country  nearly  all  of 
the  species  make  rapid  growth  out-of-doors  during  the  Summer  after 


42  STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

they  have  reached  a  certain  stage,  say  in  6-inch  pots.  They  are  plunged 
in  half-decayed  stable  litter  and  partly  shaded  with  lath  slats.  Large- 
sized  plants  will  bear  the  full  sun,  but  not  when  taken  directly  from  the 
greenhouse.  When  it  is  desired  that  plants  shall  occupy  the  same  pots 
for  any  length  of  time,  very  little,  if  any,  vegetable  humus  should  be 
among  the  soil.  Crushed  bone  and  a  little  charcoal  will  be  found  bene- 
ficial. 

Areca  (chrysalidocarpus)  lutescens  was  grown  largely  as  a  decora- 
tive palm  a  few  years  ago,  but  owing  to  its  tender  nature  it  has  been 
superseded  by  the  Kentias. 

Cocos  Weddeliana  in  a  young  state  is  exceedingly  ornamental,  the 
leaf  divisions  being  narrow  and  close  together.  It  will  stand  a  lower 
temperature  than  is  generally  given.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  the 
dwelling  house. 

Kentia  (Howea)  Belmoreana  and  K.  Forsteriana  are  two  of  the  best 
kinds,  either  for  house  plants  or  decorating.  When  they  reach  a  desira- 
ble size  they  should  be  kept  on  the  cool  side,  as  they  will  then  be  less 
liable  to  injury  when  used. 

Latania  borbonica  (Livistona  chinensis)  is  the  best  known  of  all  the 
fan  palms.  It  sliould  be  grown  under  the  same  conditions  all  the  time, 
otherwise  some  of  the  leaf  stems  will  be  short  and  others  long,  making 
an  unsymmetrical  specimen. 

Livistona  rotundifolia  makes  a  very  neat,  little  specimen  plant.  The 
foliage  is  of  a  bright  green  color.  This  palm  grows  best  in  a  warm 
house. 

L.  Jenkensii  is  not  much  used  as  a  decorative  plant,  but  it  is  one  of 
the  most  desirable  for  collections. 

Phoenix  rupicola  has  taken  the  place  of  the  older  species.  It  is  the 
most  graceful  of  the  genus.    P.  dactylifera  bears  the  date  of  commerce. 

Euterpe  edulis,  Rhapis  flabelliformis,  Ceroxylon  andicola,  Corypha 
australis,  Cocos  plumosa,  Seaforthia  elegans,  Stevensonia  grandifolia, 
Licuala  grandis  and  Caryota  sobolifera  are  a  few  of  the  better  known 
species  grown  in  collections. 

PANDANUS  VEITCHII— There  are  other  variegated  Screw  Pines,  but 
none  approaching  this  one  as  a  commercial  plant.  No  one  will  dispute 
its  right  to  a  place  among  the  best  twelve  decorative  plants;  in  fact, 
most  people  would  put  it  in  a  shorter  list.  As  a  bedder  it  stands  our 
warmest  weather  without  the  least  shade.  As  a  dwelling-house  plant 
it  has  no  superior,  and  as  a  stove  plant,  owing  to  its  beautifully  striped 
leaves,  it  tends  to  relieve  the  dull  monotony  of  green.  There  are  good 
and  bad  forms  common  in  cultivation;  those  to  be  avoided  have  mono- 
colored  leaves,  and  leaves  with  dirty  white  variegation.  The  good  one 
has  almost  pure  white  markings.  In  selecting  stock  plants  take  those 
which  show  lateral  growths  at  or  near  the  base  of  the  plant.  Large 
lateral  growths  do  not  make  good  specimens,  but  they  should  be  rooted 
for  subsequent  use  as  stock  plants.  In  rooting  it  will  be  found  a  good 
method  to  put  each  piece  into  a  pot  of  sand  and  plunge  In  a  propagat- 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  43 

ing  bed  having  a  brisk  bottom  heat.  The  large,  succulent  and  easily- 
broken  roots  which  the  cuttings  make,  being  confined  within  the  pots, 
will  be  nicely  preserved  by  shaking  out  the  sand  and  replacing  it  with 
soil,  or  by  being  shifted  into  larger  pots,  as  the  cuttings  will  keep  many- 
weeks  in  the  sand  after  roots  are  made  without  injury.  Stock  plants, 
which  get  too  large  and  have  an  abundance  of  grassy  side  shoots,  will 
be  encouraged  to  develop  those  if  the  young  leaves  of  the  main  growth 
be  torn  out.  Young  plants,  plunged  out-of-doors  during  the  end  of 
May,  should  be  examined  from  time  to  time,  as  the  roots  are  apt  to  get 
outside  the  pots;  larger-sized  pots  should  then  be  given  and  the  plants 
reiilunged. 

P.  utilis  is  a  green-leaved  species,  forming  very  handsome  plants  even 
in  small  pots.  It  stands  well  in  a  dwelling  house,  but,  like  P.  Veitchii, 
must  be  kept  on  the  dry  side  during  the  resting  period.  P.  utilis  is  raised 
f  1  "  seeds  which,  if  fresh,  germinate  well.  The  soil  for  both  kinds  should 
bo  porous  and  enriched  with  a  small  quantity  of  bone  meal. 

There  are  several  other  species,  none  of  them  grown  largely,  being 
principally  found  in  collections.  P.  javanicus  variegatus  is  quite  as 
handsome  as  P.  Veitchii,  but  needs  more  heat  in  Winter,  besides  the 
hooked  spines  pointing  two  ways  on  each  leaf  is  a  feature  very  much 
against  it.  P.  Baptistii  is  a  handsome  variegated  plant,  but  too  soft 
for  use  outside  of  a  stove.  The  true  P.  graminifolius  is  not  of  much  use 
outside  of  collections. 

PARIS  DAISIES— For  Winter  blooming  the  cuttings  should  be  put  in 
during  late  Spring.  By  the  end  of  July  they  should  get  their  last  pot- 
ting for  the  Summer,  be  pinched  back  and  plunged,  so  as  to  make  large 
heads  for  Winter-flowering.  These  Daisies  .can  be  made  to  pay  during 
the  dull  months  from  the  number  of  flowers  which  can  be  cut  from 
them.  They  are  not  so  common  as  they  might  be,  and  Daisies  in  Winter 
are  very  desirable  flowers  with  some  people.  Large  plants  are  useful 
about  Easter  time.  Left-over  plants  in  Spring  can  be  planted  out  to 
furnish  cuttings  for  Fall  propagation,  to  give  medium-sized  plants  in 
flower  for  early  Spring  sales. 

PAULLINIA  THALICTRIFOLIA  is  an  elegant  plant  for  clothing  the 
tops  of  unsightly  tubs  in  which  Palms  and  other  plants  are  growing, 
being  also  useful  for  large  vases.  It  stands  the  sun  well.  The  foliage 
somewhat  resembles  the  leaves  of  Adiantums.  Cuttings  in  September 
are  placed  in  heat. 

PHORMIUM  TENAX  and  its  forms  are  rather  stiff-looking  plants,  espe- 
cially in  a  young  state;  older  plants  furnished  with  an  abundance  of 
foliage  are  more  attractive.  To  increase,  plant  out  in  very  sandy  soil  in 
May  and  divide  in  September. 

PERESKIAS— These  are  seldom  grown  for  their  value  as  decorative 
subjects.  The  flowers  of  several  of  the  species  are  of  a  rather  pleasing 
appearance,  but  they  last  only  a  short  time  and  are  not  freely  produced. 
Two  of  the  species,  P.  aculeata  and  P.  Bleo,  are  common  in  cultivation, 
and  are  used  chiefly  as  stocks  for  the  gaudy-flowered  Epiphyllums, 
which  see  for  treatment. 


44  STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

PEPEROniAS— Useful  little  plants  with  peltate  leaves,  finely  marked 
with  bands  of  white  between  the  principal  veins.  They  grow  best  in  a 
warm  greenhouse  with  shade.  Peperomia  Saundersii  is  grown  either 
for  filling  shallow  pans,  mixed  with  other  plants,  or  as  specimen  plants 
for  the  window.  P.  maculosa  and  P.  marmorata  are  also  well  worth 
growing.  Propagation  is  effected  at  any  time  of  the  year  by  placing 
entire  leaves,  with  a  piece  of  stem  attached,  edgewise  in  sand. 

PHYLLAGATHIS  ROTUNDIFOLIA  belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the 
better  known  Sphoerogyne  latifolia  atid  Cyanophyllum  spectabile.  It 
somewhat  resembles  the  former  in  gf>neral  appearance.  A  few  plants  of 
it  were  given  a  test  last  year,  outside  during  the  Summer,  in  a  position 
partly  shaded  from  the  sun.  They  behaved  splendidly,  and  in  a  position 
like  the  above,  where  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  covered  with  some  low- 
growing  plant,  such  as  Hydrocotyle  or  Lysimachia,  to  keep  the  sun 
from  the  roots,  it  may  become  a  valuable  feature  for  outdoor  decora- 
tion. But  for  indoors,  it  may  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  the  more 
gaudy-leaved  Sphoerogyne,  as  it  succeeds  in  an  atmosphere  where  the 
majority  of  greenhouse  plants  can  be  grown.  Propagation  for  small 
plants  is  by  the  leaf,  the  petiole  of  which  is  inserted  in  sand,  the  blade 
lying  flat  on  the  surface  and  the  ribs  severed  in  several  places.  From 
the  cut  parts  nearest  the  petiole,  numerous  small  growths  are  made; 
these,  when-an  inch  or  so  high,  may  be  potted  up.  For  making  speci- 
men plants  quickly  old  subjects  which  have  been  encouraged  to  branch 
may  be  cut  up,  and  the  pieces  inserted  in  pots  in  bottom  heat.  They 
send  out  roots  very  quickly. 

PHYLLANTHUS  NIVOSUS  and  P.  ATROPURPUREUS— These  are  hardly 
suitable  as  florists'  plants,  but  for  public  or  private  establishments  they 
should  always  be  grown,  as  their  foliage,  in  a  young  state  especially, 
is  most  beautifully  colored  even  when  grown  in  the  open  air  during 
Summer.  In  this  latitude  we  plant  them  out  along  with  other  bedding 
material;  they  are  exceedingly  effective.  The  old  plants  are  cut  back 
severely  in  Autumn,  potted  and  stored  in  a  rather  warm  house.  In 
February  cuttings  of  the  medium  thick  wood  are  taken,  and  rooted  in 
strong  heat. 

PHYLLOT/ENIUn  LINDENII— This  plant,  which  belongs  to  the  Cala- 
dium  family,  should  be  employed  for  decorative  purposes  more  than  is 
the  case  at  present;  not  only  because  the  foliage  differs  from  the  small 
number  of  kinds  of  plants  used  for  decorative  work,  but  mainly  for  the 
reason  that  it  will  stand  the  rough  treatment  given  to  those  plants 
more  so  than  one  would  expect.  It  is  a  stove  plant  and  one  of  the  most 
ornamental.  After  a  goodly  number  of  leaves  have  been  developed  in  a 
warm,  moist  atmosphere  the  plants  will  continue  to  keep  up  a  presenta- 
ble appearance  with  ordinary  greenhouse  temperature,  and  they  may 
even  be  used  as  house  plants.  The  leaves  are  shaped  somewhat  like 
those  of  the  fancy-leaved  Caladiuraa;  the  texture  is  much  firmer,  the 
color  is  green  with  white  markings  along  the  principal  veins.  Propaga- 
tion is  by  division.  Before  repotting  put  the  pieces  in  a  warm  sand  bed 
to  encourage  fresh  roots. 


STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  45 

THE  PLUriERIAS  are  a  neglected  class  of  plants  somehow;  we  see 
them  only  in  places  where  a  general  collection  of  stove  and  greenhouse 
plants  are  grown,  and  yet  their  flowers  are  large,  showy  and  sweet 
smelling.  The  stems  and  foliage  have  an  ornamental  character  of  their 
own.  They  make  very  rapid  growth  in  Summer,  being  well  suited  for 
tub  culture.  The  plants  should  be  kept  dry  during  Winter.  The  leaves 
will  fall  off  early,  and  the  pots  or  tubs  in  which  the  plants  grow  may  be 
laid  on  their  sides  under  the  bench  of  a  greenhouse.  In  propagating, 
which  may  be  done  best  during  February,  the  cuttings  may  be  taken 
from  6  inches  to  a  foot  long;  stand  them  upright  or  leaning  against  the 
back  part  of  the  propagating  bench,  but  not  with  the  bases  buried  in 
the  sand.  Nor  should  they  be  allowed  any  water  for  a  week  or  two. 
After  the  cut  part  is  well  healed  over  they  may  be  potted  in  almost  dry 
sand,  in  which  they  root  quickly  if  put  in  a  brisk  heat. 

PRinULA  SINENSIS  has  not  by  any  means  been  left  behind  in  the  im- 
provement of  florists'  flowers.  The  latest  strains  put  on  the  market 
would  almost  be  taken  for  new  species  by  those  who  only  knew  the 
plants  of  20  years  ago.  P.  sinensis  is  a  popular  Winter  blooming  plant. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  as  early  as  the  last  of  March  to  have  plants  in  5 
and  6-inch  pots  in  bloom  before  Christmas.  Later  sowings  should  also 
be  made,  but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  plants  make  their  best 
growth  during  cool  weather.  They  may  be  summered  in  a  well-aired 
and  shaded  frame. 

P.  Forbesii  is  a  wonderful  species  when  we  consider  the  enormous 
number  of  flowers  produced  on  even  small  plants.  Several  plants  may 
be  potted  together  in  shallow  pans. 

P.  floribunda  has  a  very  floriferous  form  named  P.  Isabellina;  the 
flowers  are  creamy  white. 

Primula  obconica  would  seem  to  be  in  the  process  of  being  evolved 
from  the  rather  inconspicuous  flower  of  the  type  to  one  not  unworthy 
to  stand  alongside  those  of  the  finest  strains  of  Primula  sinensis.  One 
of  the  European  seed  firms,  a  year  or  two  ago,  offered  seed  under  the 
name  of  P.  o.  grandiflora  flmbriata,  a  sowing  of  which  I  made  at  the 
time.  The  resulting  seedlings  corroborated  all  that  had  been  claimed 
for  them.  Some  are  heavily  fringed,  and  range  from  pure  white  to  deep 
rose.  The  largest  individual  flowers  are  a  little  short  of  being  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  diameter.  The  plants  are  exceedingly  floriferous;  some  in 
6-inch  pots  have  the  foliage  almost  hidden  with  bloom.  To  have  plants 
in  flower  by  the  first  of  the  year  the  seeds  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the 
season  as  possible.  Cover  the  seed  very  lightly  with  finely  screened 
sphagnum,  moistening  the  surface  whenever  it  shows  signs  of  becoming 
dry.  As  soon  as  large  enough  to  handle  the  seedlings  may  be  either 
potted  off  singly,  or  placed  around  the  edge  of  a  3  or  4-inch  pot  previous 
to  giving  them  their  first  pots.  During  the  Summer  the  seedlings  should 
be  shaded  from  the  sun  and  never  allowed  to  get  dry.  They  do  not 
make  much  headway  during  the  very  hot  months.  The  plants  will  not 
Buffer  if  given  their  last  shift  just  as  they  are  coming  into  bloom.  Keep 
in  the  coolest  house. 


46  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

Fertilizing  Primula  Flowers— Any  extra  good  forms  of  Primula  sinen- 
sie  or  P.  obconica,  desirable  on  account  of  large  flowers,  shape,  or  color, 
should  be  set  aside  for  seed.  During  the  Winter  months,  when  insects  are 
scarce,  fertilization  -will  have  to  be  done  by  hand,  as  it  is  rarely  the  case 
that  a  flower  of  Primula  is  fertilized  by  its  own  pollen.  For  seed  plants 
preference  should  be  given  to  those  having  the  pistil  protruding  from 
the  corolla  tube.  It  may  be  stated  that  primroses  have  two  kinds  of 
flowers,  each  kind  on  separate  plants,  one  having  what  is  called  the 
style  elongated  until  the  stigma  shows  plainly  from  the  mouth  of  the 
tube  formed  by  the  bases  of  the  petals,  while  the  stamens  are  attached 
near  the  bottom  of^  this  tube.  In  the  other  flower  the  positions  of  the 
organs  are  reversed,  the  style  being  shortened  so  that  the  stigma  is 
more  than  half  way  down  the  tube;  and  the  stamens  are  in  full  view 
near  the  mouth  of  the  tube  exactly  in  the  position  occupied  by  the 
stigma  of  the  long-styled  flower.  The  pollen  of  the  Primrose  is  ripe 
before  the  petals  are  expanded,  but  at  this  stage  the  stigma  of  the  s^me 
flower  is  not  in  a  condition  to  receive  it.  Those  flowers  having  elon- 
gated styles  are  easiest  to  manipulate,  and  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  they 
are  the  best  seed  bearers.  Pollen,  from  either  short  or  long-styled 
flowers,  may  be  applied  to  the  stigmas.  When  it  is  necessary  to  fertilize 
those  with  short  styles,  it  is,  of  course,  impossible  to  get  at  the  stigmas 
with  a  small  brush,  owing  to  the  anthers  filling  the  mouth  of  the  corolla 
tube,  but  with  a  pair  of  small  scissors  the  corolla  tube  may  be  snapped 
in  two  immediately  below  that  part  to  which  the  stamens  are  attached, 
thus  giving  easy  ingress  to  the  stigma.  Keep  the  atmosphere  as  dry  as 
possible  while  the  pollen  is  acting. 

REINWARDTIA  (LINUH)  TRIQYNUM  and  R.  TETRAGYNUM  are  both 
desirable  Winter  flowering  plants.  R.  trigynum  is  the  best  known;  the 
other  one  has  light  yellow  flowers  and  is  the  most  floriferous.  They 
may  be  planted  outside,  middle  of  May,  and  lifted  during  the  end  of 
September,  if  large  specimens  are  required  for  the  greenhouse;  or  from 
cuttings  rooted  in  April  they  may  be  grown  on  in  pots,  pinching  occa- 
sionally.   R.  trigynum  is  the  only  one  which  seeds  freely. 

ROCHEA  FALCATA  or  Crassula  falcata,  is  the  principal  member  of  a 
small  genus  of  plants  indigenous  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The 
fol'age  is  rather  peculiar  in  that  the  leaves  are  thick,  blunt  and  formed 
somewhat  after  the  shape  of  a  curved  knife.  The  principal  attraction 
lies  in  the  flowers,  which  are  bright  scarlet,  small,  but  produced  in  im- 
mense numbers  in  flat  heads.  Although  in  Summer  it  will  stand  an 
abundance  of  water  in  fully  exposed  situations,  it  should  be  given  drier 
conditions  in  Winter.  It  will  succeed  well  enough  in  a  house  suitable  for 
Geraniums.  The  Rochea  is  a  slow-growing  plant,  consequently  getting 
up  a  stock  is  a  tedious  process.  The  tips  of  the  shoots  make  the  finest 
plants,  and  the  pieces  of  the  stem  next  the  place  where  the  tip  has  been 
taken  off,  can  be  utilized  for  as  much  of  its  length  as  will  be  safe  to 
enable  it  to  break  out  again.  For  leaf  cuttings  the  leaves  must  be  cut 
off  cleanly  and  put  in  sand,  much  in  the  same  way  as  Echeverias,  only  a 
little  more  heat  should  be  given  during  the  rooting  process.  Encourage 
old  plants  to  send  out  small  growths  along  the  old  stems  by  taking  out 


STOVE  AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  47 

the  tips  and  keeping  tlie  plants  perfectly  dry  for  a  time.  As  soon  as  they 
begin  to  breali,  water  may  be  gradually  supplied. 

RUELLIA  MACRANTHA— For  a  greenhouse  plant  for  amateurs  this  is 
one  of  the  best.  Its  cultivation  is  very  simple.  Cuttings  rooted  in 
September  vi^ill  furnish  fair-sized  flowering  plants  by  the  end  of  January. 
These  may  be  planted  out,  end  of  May,  in  the  open  ground;  by  the  end 
of  September  they  will  have  made  considerable  growth;  and  if  large 
specimens  are  wanted  they  may  be  lifted  and  potted.  The  flowers  are 
very  large,  tubular-shaped,  and  magenta  in  color. 

RUSSELIAS— Russelia  juncea  is  an  old  plant  but  too  seldom  seen;  it 
is  probably  the  most  useful  of  all  our  basket  or  vase  plants.  It  sends 
out  long  arching  branches  of  rush-like  growths  with  flowers  of  an 
intense  scarlet.  Planted  singly  in  vases  there  are  few  things  to  equal  it 
in  appearance.  To  propagate  it  take  a  handful  of  shoots  at  a  time  and 
cut  them  into  lengths  of  from  4  to  6  inches.  In  this  way  200  cuttings 
may  be  made  with  two  strokes  of  the  knife,  and  every  one  will  root.  R. 
Lemoiuei  and  R.  elegantissima  are  both  good.  The  flowers  are  smaller 
than  those  of  R.  juncea,  but  more  of  them  are  produced.  The  two  latter 
are  better  Winter  flowering  plants  than  R.  juncea. 

SARRACENIAS— Natives  of  the  Eastern  States.  There  are  six  species 
and  a  large  number  of  hybrids;  much  prized  in  Europe  owing  to  their 
curiously-shaped,  and  in  some  cases  highly-colored  leaves.  S.  Drum- 
mondii,  a  native  of  Florida,  is  the  finest  of  all  the  kinds,  none  of  the  hy- 
brids approaching  it  in  the  gorgeous  markings  of  the  foliage.  Sarrace- 
nias  are  best  grown  in  a  cool,  sunny  house.  The  potting  material 
should  be  the  same  as  recommended  for  Nepenthes. 

SALVIA  SPLENDENS— When  it  is  desired  to  raise  this  fine  late  Sum- 
mer-blooming plant  from  cuttings,  old  plants  may  be  lifted,  the  flowers 
cut  off  and  the  plants  set  in  a  cool  house.  Under  these  conditions  the 
growths  made  are  softer  and  root  very  quickly,  a  single  plant  giving  a 
large  number  of  cuttings.  Fall  propagating  is  somtimes  done  in  a 
hurry,  owing  to  the  sudden  arrival  of  a  cold  spell,  and  this  Salvia  i?iay 
be  lifted  and  stored  in  safety  without  the  loss  of  much  time. 

Salvia  Splendens  "  Bonfire  "  is  an  improvement  on  the  old  kind,  being 
of  a  deeper  color  and  more  compact  in  growth. 

There  is  a  very  large  number  of  species,  but  only  a  few  in  general  cul- 
tivation. S.  leucantha  is  very  late  in  coming  into  bloom,  making  enor- 
mous growth  during  the  Summer.  It  is  well  worth  growing  even  for 
the  short  season  of  bloom.  S.  patens  is  one  of  the  handsomest  blue- 
flowered  plants  in  cultivation.  Store  the  roots  under  a  bench  and  start 
early  to  get  cuttings;  or  it  may  be  raised  from  seed. 

SAINTPAULIA  lONANTHA  is  a  very  pretty  dwarf,  blue-flowered  plant, 
the  leaves  resembling  those  of  a  Gloxinia  but  smaller.  With  little  trou- 
ble it  may  be  had  in  bloom  at  almost  any  season.  The  end  of  March  is 
a  good  time  to  propagate.  Cut  off  the  ripened  leaves  with  about  an 
inch  of  stalk  attached  and  insert  in  the  sand  bed,  covering  only  a  small 
part  of  the  leaf  blade.    The  sand  should  not  be  kept  too  wet  during  the 


48  STOVE   AND    GREENHOUSE   PLANTS. 

process  of  rooting.  Otherwise,  the  treatment  may  be  similar  to  that  of 
the  Gloxinia.  The  plants  may  he  flowered  all  the  year  round,  or  given 
a  period  of  rest  by  partly  withholding  water. 

SPHCEROGYNE  LATIFOLIA— This  stove  plant  bears  the  distinction  of 
being  one  of  the  finest  foliage  plants  in  cultivation.  Together  with 
Cyanophyllum  magniflcum,  another  noble  leaved  plant,  it  belongs  to 
the  same  order  as  ourcommon  Meadow  Beauty  (Rhexia).  Both  of  these 
plants  look  as  if  they  would  be  very  difficult  to  propagate,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  they  are  exceedingly  easy  subjects,  so  easy  that  if  the  condi- 
tions are  all  right,  there  is  no  excuse  for  losing  a  cutting.  Mossing  the 
tops  is  a  rather  slow  and  unsatisfactory  method,  and,  I  think,  single 
eye  cuttings  can  be  just  as  rapidly  grown  into  specimens  as  successfully 
rooted  tops.  During  January  the  plants  are  in  less  active  growth  than 
at  any  other  period,  consequently  this  is  the  best  season  for  putting  in 
the  cuttings.  Split  the  stems,  making  single  eye  cuttings;  shorten  back 
the  leaves  to  within  about  2  inches  of  the  leaf  stalk,  leave  about  21/^ 
inches  of  stem  (less  than  this  will  root  poorly);  put  firmly  in  sand  of 
warm  propagating  bed,  taking  care  that  the  under  part  of  the  piece  of 
leaf  lies  flat  on  the  sand;  cover  with  glass.  Hooting  will  be  indicated 
by  the  buds  elongating.    Pot  in  thumb  pots  and  keep  close  for  a  time. 

STEPHANOTIS  FLORIBUNDA— A  great  deal  of  roof  space  may  be  suc- 
cessfully utilized  in  the  growing  of  this  plant,  the  flowers  of  which  can 
be  profitably  disposed  of  at  all  times.  The  plants  may  be  put  out  in 
benches  in  the  greenhouse  and  trained  up  the  rafters,  but  the  bench  must 
be  one  which  will  not  need  repairing  every  now  and  then.  The  best 
plan  is  to  have  a  rather  deep  box  of  soil  specially  prepared.  Fibrous 
loam,  enriched  with  manure;  some  charcoal  and  crushed  bone  will  keep 
the  soil  open.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  high  temperature  in  Winter, 
as  most  of  the  growth  will  be  made  during  the  Summer  months.  Start 
with  cuttings,  as  they  flower  much  more  abundantly  than  plants  grown 
from  seed. 

STEVI AS— Cuttings  are  struck  in  late  Spring.  Put  in  2i/2-inch  pots; 
from  these  they  are  shifted  into  4-inch  pots.  About  the  beginning  of 
August  they  are  transferred  into  6-inch  pots.  To  prevent  the  plants  get- 
ting wiry  constant  pinching  should  be  resorted  to.  Pot-grown  plants 
are  ^jreferable  to  field-grown  subjects  for  late  flowering,  as  the  plants  in 
pots  can  be  stored  in  a  place  from  which  the  frost  is  just  kept  out,  so  as 
to  fill  space  vacated  by  Chrysanthemums.  Field-grown  plants  may  get 
their  last  pinching  during  September,  and  in  the  benches  should  be 
planted  quite  close  together. 

STREPTOCARPUS  HYBRIDS— These  have  now  attained  such  a  high 
degree  of  perfection  that  they  should  be  included  in  every  general  collec- 
tion of  greenhouse  decorative  plants.  They  are  better  window  flower- 
ing plants  than  is  generally  supposed,  not  requiring  a  very  high  tempera- 
ture at  any  time.  Seed,  to  produce  flowering  plants  in  the  Fall,  should 
be  sown  during  March.  As  the  seed  is  very  small,  extra  care  should  be 
taken  in  the  sowing  and  subsequent  treatment  until  theplants  are  large 
enough.    In  connection  with  the  germination  there  is  a  peculiarity  not 


STOVE  AND   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS.  49 

noticeable  in  other  plants.  Two  tiny  seed  leaves  are  produced  shortly 
after  sowing  the  seed,  and  after  a  while  one  of  these  seed  leaves  dies  the 
other  continuing  to  elongate.  In  some  of  the  species,  notably  one 
name  S.  Wendlandi,  this  seed  leaf,  which  at  first  was  about  the  size  of  a 
pin  head,  expands  till  it  gets  about  18  inches  long  and  a  foot  broad. 

STROBILANTHES  ANISOPHYLLUS  and  S.  ISOPHYLLUS  are  very  neat 
and  useful  Winter  blooming  plants  for  the  warm  greenhouse.  Flowers 
are  light  purple.  Cuttings  should  be  taken  in  early  Spring.  Plant  out 
for  the  Summer,  lifting  and  potting  end  of  September. 

SYNADENIUn  QRANTII  is  a  very  campact-growing  euphorbiaceous 
plant,  with  bright  green  foliage,  bearing  no  flowers  in  a  small  state; 
and  those  which  come  on  mature  plants  do  not  have  much  to  recom- 
mend them.  This  is  one  of  the  easiest  plants  to  root.  By  merely  stick- 
ing pieces  about  8  inches  in  length  in  the  soil  about  the  end  of  May,  they 
take  root  quickly,  making  a  good  display  for  the  balance  of  the  season. 

STEPHANOPHYSUM  (RUELLIA)  LONGIFLORUM— For  conservatory 
decoration  this  is  a  most  useful  plant  during  the  dull  months,  small-sized 
subjects  being  covered  with  bright  red  flowers.  The  ease  with  which 
flowering  plants  may  be  had  by  the  end  of  the  year  is  remarkable.  Cut- 
tings are  put  in  the  usual  time  that  soft-wooded  bedding  plants  are 
propagated;  they  root  in  a  few  days,  after  which  they  are  put  in  3-inch 
pots.  Three  of  the  plants  may  then  be  put  in  a  6-inch  pot,  and  by  keep- 
ing them  in  a  growing  temperature  they  may  be  had  in  full  flower  two 
months  after  the  cuttings  are  taken.  It  is  not  only  useful  as  a  Winter 
blooming  plant  but  it  comes  in  well  for  planting  out  in  Spring,  bloom- 
ing satisfactorily  during  the  Summer. 

TINNEA  /6THI0PICA— A  shrubby  greenhouse  plant  sometimes  called 
the  Tree  Violet,  owing  to  its  flowers  having  the  same  fragrance  as  the 
violet.    It  is  propagated  from  good-sized  cuttings  of  the  dormant  wood. 

TOXICOPHL^A  SPECTABILIS— A  Spring  blooming  stove  shrub. 
Flowers  are  pure  white,  borne  in  dense  clusters.  Should  be  treated 
similarly  to  the  Ixoras. 


50 


Bedding  Plants. 


ACALYPHAS— There  are  about  eight  species  and  varieties  of  Acalypha 
grown  as  bedding  plants.  With  the  exception  of  A.  hispida  (Sanderi) 
they  are  ornamental  foliage  plants,  having  bronze-colored  leaves  of 
varying  shades.  A  Godsefflana  and  A.  Hamiltoniana  are  marked  with 
creamy  white  margins.  A.  Wilkesiana  has  several  variations,  the  best 
known  of  which  are  A.  Macafeeajia  and  A.  musaica.  A.  hispida  has  very 
ornamental  pendant  spikes  of  red  flowers,  produced  in  the  axils  of  the 
leaves.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  in  the  Fall  before  the  cold  weather  in- 
jures the  plants,  but  to  save  space  the  old  plants  should  be  lifted,  cut 
back,  and  boxed  or  potted,  starting  them  into  growth  in  early  Spring, 
when  they  push  out  from  every  bud  giving  abundant  material  for 
propagating. 

AQERATUM  MEXICANUM— This  is  one  of  the  most  tender  bedding 
plants,  although  it  does  not  require  much  heat  during  the  Winter.  Lift 
old  plants  and  keep  in  a  greenhouse;  they  will  give  an  abundance  of 
growths  for  cuttings  during  the  months  of  February  and  March. 

ALTERNANTHERA— The  dwarf  and  slow-growing  Alternantheras, 
such  as  A.  brilliantissima  and  A.paronychioides  are  unsatisfactory  from 
cuttings,  unless  taken  in  late  Summer  and  kept  growing.  When  taken 
later  they  are  apt  to  continue  in  a  weak  condition  all  through  the  Win- 
ter. But  in  either  case  they  take  up  too  much  room  in  the  greenhouse 
for  nearly  eight  months.  A  much  better  method  is  to  lift  the  old  plants 
before  the  frost  blackens  them,  cut  over  to  within  three  or  four  inches 
from  the  roots;  put  the  cut-over  plants  as  thickly  as  they  will  go  in 
boxes;  give  water  once  and  jdace  under  the  benches  of  a  warm  house, 
where  they  will  get  some  light.  About  the  beginning  of  March  bring 
the  boxes  up  to  the  light,  sprinkle  about  an  inch  of  sand  among  the 
plants,  and  give  water.  Two  weeks  later  divide  the  plants  and  pot 
them,  when  it  will  be  found  the  pieces  are  much  superior  to  plants  from 
cuttings  and  make  a  better  and  quicker  display  in  their  Summer 
quarters. 

ALYSSUM  riARITIMUM  (Koeniga)— The  plant  known  as  Sweet  Alys- 
sum  is  one  of  the  last  to  succumb  to  cold  weather.  In  this  locality  it  is 
frequently  in  bloom  up  to  the  middle  of  December.  It  is  used  for  win- 
dow boxes,  vases  and  baskets.  A  few  plants  may  be  lifted,  cut  back 
and  planted  in  the  front  part  of  a  rose  or  carnation  bench,  where  they 
will  furnish  abundant  material  for  cuttings  in  the  Spring. 

AflARANTHUS  will  germinate  out-of-doors  and  make  fair-sized  plants, 
but  to  have  them  at  their  best  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  beginning 
of  March,  in  a  warm  house,  and  near  the  glass,  as  the  seedlings  get  very 
weak  unless  given  all  the  light  possible.  As  soon  as  large  enough  they 
are  pricked  off  into  boxes,  and,  when  they  reach  the  proper  size,  potted 
singly  into  3-inch  pots  planting  them  out  from  this  size.    Their  value 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  51 

lies  in  the  highly  colored  foliage,  no  other  class  of  plants  surpassing 
them  in  this  respect.  In  the  hottest  parts  of  the  country  they  do  not 
last  long  after  attaining  their  full  size,  and  may  be  successfully  used 
among  Canna  plants,  which  have  been  set  out  in  a  semi-dormant  state. 

ANNUAL  PLANTS  are  those  which  germinate,  come  into  flower  and 
ripen  their  seed  within  a  year.  Plants  of  this  nature  usually  die  soon 
after  ripening  their  seeds.  Familiar  examples  are  as  follows:  Phlox 
Drummondii,  Chinese  Aster,  Browallia  elata  and  Silene  muscipula.  But 
these  and  many  other  plants  known  as  annuals  under  favorable  circum- 
stances will  germinate  in  the  Fall  and  flower  the  following  Summer. 
In  this  locality  Phlox  Drummondii  and  Silene  muscipula  germinate  freely 
in  the  Autumn  months  out-of-doors,  and  flower  the  following  year;  so 
that  it  will  be  seen  that  the  term  cannot  be  strictly  applied  similarly  in 
varying  latitudes. 

ASCLEPIAS  CURUSSAVICA— A  greenhouse  plant  in  European  gar- 
dens. Seeds  sown  first  half  ofj  February,  and  the  plants  put  out  from 
3-inch  pots  in  Ma3%  will  grow  5  feet  high  and  3  feet  through,  bearing 
myriads  of  yellow  and  red  flowers.    Seeds  ripen  freely  on  outdoor  plants. 

ASTERS,  CHINESE  (Callistephus  chinensis)— A  few  years  ago  Chinese 
Asters  started  early  (about  the  beginning  of  February)  and  flowered  in- 
doors proved  remunerative;  but  so  easily  are  they  grown  that  the  mar- 
ket soon  became  overstocked.  Their  habit  of  growing  to  a  great  height 
in  the  greenhouse  can  be  guarded  against  by  selecting  the  varieties, 
planting  wide  enough  apart  and  giving  the  maximum  amount  of  light 
and  air.  They  should  take  the  place  of  exhausted  Carnations  or  Mi- 
gnonette. The  outdoor  crop  need  not  come  in  bloom  all  at  the  same  time; 
the  first  lot  may  be  safely  planted  out  during  the  middle  of  April  in 
most  places,  the  seeds  being  sown  in  very  shallow  hotbeds  about  the 
end  of  February. 

BANANAS  (flusa) — The  ordinary  fruiting  Bananas  for  sub-tropical 
bedding  will  do  well  in  almost  any  part  of  the  country.  With  a  plant 
or  two  to  start  with  no  trouble  need  be  experienced  in  getting  up  a 
stock,  as  they  sucker  freely  from  the  bases  of  the  old  stems.  If  there  is 
difficulty  in  disposing  of  them,  which  is  not  likely  to  be  the  case,  as  in 
every  community  there  are  some  people  who  like  things  which  are  un- 
common, then  use  them  for  the  decoration  of  the  home  grounds  with 
such  plants  as  Cannas,  Eulalias  and  dark-leaved  Ricinus.  This  combi- 
nation will  make  a  display  that  will  be  hard  to  equal.  There  are  few 
things  easier  to  keep  over  Winter.  On  the  approach  of  frost  the  leaves 
should  be  shortened  back  by  two-thirds  of  their  length,  the  plants  lifted, 
roots  shortened  back  considerably,  and  stowed  as  thickly  together  as 
they  will  go  in  a  box  and  placed  in  some  out  of-the-way  corner,  where 
frost  will  not  get  at  them.  They  will  pull  through  the  Winter  all  right, 
in  a  pretty  low  temperature.  When  planting-out  time  comes  they  are 
rather  uncanny-looking  objects  for  the  center  of  a  bed;  but  they  are  not 
long  in  developing  a  crop  of  leaves. 

The  hardiest  species  of  the  genus,  and  one  splendidly  adapted  to 
our  Summers,  is  known  as  the  Abyssinian  Banana,  M.  Ensete.    It  does 


52  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

not  sucker  like  the  ordinary  edible  fruited  varieties,  but  is  easily  raised 
from  seeds.  Sow  them  the  latter  part  of  January  in  the  sand  bed  of  a 
warm  propagating  house,  and  pot  off  the  seedlings  w^hen  they  have  de- 
veloped three  or  four  leaves.  They  may  be  potted  earlier  if  kept  in  bot- 
tom heat.  In  one  season  they  will,  under  favorable  conditions,  grow  6 
feet  high,  and  if  lifted,  kept  over  Winter  and  planted  the  second  season, 
they  will  develop  into  very  large  specimens.    They  delight  in  rich  soil. 

M.  superba— A  species  somewhat  resembling  M.  Ensete,  is  of  a  slower 
growth.  The  foHage  is  slightly  covered  with  a  farinaceous  looking 
substance.  In  Winter  the  leaves  die  down,  the  bases  of  which  form  a 
resting  bulb-like  formation.  It  should  be  started  into  growth  before 
planting  out.    These  plants  are  raised  from  seed. 

BALSAflS  (Impatiens  Balsamina)— Many  florists  depend  to  a  great 
extent  upon  the  white  camelha-flowered  Balsams  for  supplying  mate- 
rial for  designs  during  Summer.  Although  there  are  other  things  more 
satisfactory  the  Balsam  will  continue  to  be  used,  as  it  can  be  depended 
upon  to  grow  with  a  minimum  amount  of  care.  The  crop  is  sometimes 
disappointing,  owing  to  a  large  percentage  of  the  seedlings  bearing 
semi-double  flowers.  Those  plants  with  very  double  flowers  do  not  set 
seed  very  freely,  of  course,  and  the  temptation  is  evidently  great,  in 
gathering  a  seed  crop,  to  collect  the  capsules  from  the  verj^  abundant 
crops  on  the  single-flowered  plants  to  tha  exclusion  of  those  on  the 
doubles  and  semi-doubles.  A  few  plants  of  the  best  types  carefully  lifted 
from  the  field  during  dull  weather  and  put  indoors,  will  seed  more  fr-eely 
than  when  left  at  the  mercy  of  wind  and  rain,  or  panes  of  glass  may  be 
fixed  over  extra  choice  plants  in  the  field.  For  each  plant  get  two  pieces 
of  wood,  making  a  cut  of  about  an  inch  deep  with  a  wide-set  saw  near 
the  top;  have  the  sticks  driven  into  the  ground  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
plant,  with  the  cuts  facing  each  other;  into  these  cuts  slide  the  panes. 
This  looks  like  a  lot  of  trouble,  but  it  is  better  to  do  it  than  to  be  with- 
out the  flowers.  For  late  crops  the  seeds  may  be  sown  out-of-doors  and 
transplanted.  To  have  them  in  bloom  early  sow  in  shallow  hotbeds 
and  transplant  about  the  middle  of  May,  earlier  or  later,  according  to 
locality. 

The  Zanzibar  Balsam,  Impatiens  Sultanii,  makes  a  very  showy  bor- 
der plant,  and  needs  very  little  care  after  being  planted  out.  Sow  the 
seeds  in  heat  about  the  1st  of  March;  keep  growing  to  prevent  flower- 
ing in  a  young  state. 

BEGONIAS— Seeds  of  the  bedding  varieties  should  be  sown  by  the  be- 
ginning of  January,  to  have  the  plants  in  good  shape  for  Spring  sales. 
Cuttings  are  often  used,  but  they  do  not  make  anything  like  as  good 
plants  as  those  from  seed.  The  seed  should  be  so\vn  in  boxes  or  pans. 
Sterilize  the  soil  used  on  the  surface,  firm  well,  water,  then  sow  thinly 
without  covering  the  seed,  or  with  only  a  very  small  quantity  of  fine 
sand,  covering  the  box  or  pan  with  a  pane  of  glass  until  the  seeds  vege- 
tate. Some  of  the  varieties  used  for  bedding,  and  which  do  grandly  in 
most  localities,  are  Bruantii,  Erfordire,  Vernon,  Vulcan  and  Zulu  King. 
Out-of-doors  all  of  them  will  ripen  seed  by  September.    Seed  of  some  of 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  53 

each  should  be  saved,  keeping  it  until  wanted  for  sowing,  without 
bursting  the  seed  vessels. 

Begonia  corallina  is  undoubtedly  the  best  of  all  the  shrubby  Bego- 
nias for  outdoor  use.  The  larger  the  specimens  when  put  out  the  finer 
the  display.  Small  plants  in  3-ineh  pots  must  necessarily  make  fresh 
growths  from  the  root,  in  order  to  attain  one  or  two  feet  in  height,  and 
in  doing  this  the  best  part  of  the  Summer  is  spent;  but  large,  healthy 
specimens  will  break  freely  into  growth  from  the  old  wood  and  produce 
myriads  of  bright  red  flowers.  An  abundant  supply  of  propagating 
material  can  be  secured  from  out-door  plants  just  before  freezing 
weather.  Old  plants  will  hibernate  in  boxes  under  the  bench  of  a  mod- 
erately warm  house. 

BELLIS  PERENNIS— The  best  kinds  of  double  daisies  are  perpetuated 
by  dividing  the  plants  after  blooming,  but  in  many  parts  of  the  country 
these  plants  do  not  survive  tiot  weather.  Seeds  should  be  sown  during 
September,  and  the  plants  Wintered  in  a  frame. 

BROWALLIA  ELATA — A  blue-flowered  'annual  species,  may  be  sown 
where  it  is  to  bloom.  In  this  locality  the  numerous  varieties  are  hardy 
annuals. 

B.  speciosa  may  either  be  raised  from  cuttings  or  seeds.     When 
grown  cool  both  are  good  Winter  blooming  plants  for  the  conservatory. 

CANNAS — The  first  lot  of  rhizomes  intended  for  bedding  purposes 
should  be  started  during  the  first  part  of  February.  These  should  be 
the  tinest  kinds  and  those  which  it  is  desired  to  increase,  because  even 
the  smallest  pieces  having  one  dormant  point,  started  early,  will  make 
plants  large  enough  to  occupy  5-inch  pots  by  the  time  for  planting  out. 
Leave  as  much  of  the  rhizome  to  each  point  as  possible,  as  it  will  send 
out  new  growths  from  the  dormant  buds  between  the  scales.  In  the 
formation  of  the  rhizomes  scales  are  first  formed  entirely  encircling  the 
rhizome,  which,  as  it  reaches  the  light,  gradually  elongate  until  true 
leaves  are  formed.  The  main  crop  may  be  gone  over  during  the  first 
half  of  March.  Cut  up  the  rhizomes  into  pieces  small  enough,  so  that 
when  the  time  comes  for  potting,  each  piece  will  fill  a  5-inch  pot.  Before 
potting  they  should  be  put  in  material  which  will  encourage  the  forma- 
tion of  roots,  and  the  best  for  this  purpose  is  sphagnum,  sand  and  rotted 
cow  manure  in  equal  parts.  When  the  rhizomes  are  potted  without 
roots  they  always  turn  out  unsatisfactory.  Some  start  immediately 
but  the  majority  remain  dormant,  and  take  up  valuable  space  for  too 
long  a  time.  Use  boxes  to  start  the  rhizomes;  place  a  couple  of  inches 
of  the  material  in  the  bottom,  put  the  pieces  on  this  and  cover  with  at 
least  one  inch  of  the  rooting  medium.  Water  only  sparingly  at  first;  as 
the  growths  push  up  give  full  exposure  to  the  light. 

Varieties— It  is  only  a  very  few  years  since  the  principal  feature  of 
the  Canna  was  its  foliage,  the  blooms  being  small  and  comparatively 
insignificant.  Within  the  last  decade  the  development  of  the  flower  has 
been  very  marked.  The  beginning  was  made  in  Europe,  and  from  the 
first  of  the  improved  forms  numerous  fine  varieties  have  been  raised  in 
America,  so  that  now  anyone  can  take  a  few  good  flowered  sorts,  pol- 


54  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

linate  the  flowers,  and  among  the  resulting  progeny  will  be  found  some 
as  good,  if  not  better,  than  the  parents.  A  new  race  has  recently  sprung 
up  known  as  the  orchid-flowered  Cannas;  these  have  been  secured  by 
crossing  the  Crozy  section  with  the  large  yellow  flowered  C.  flaccida. 
The  flowers  are  very  large  and  showy,  but  the  direct  cross  between  the 
two  is  not  very  suitable  as  a  bedder,  owing  to  the  soft  nature  of  the 
segments.  There  are  at  present  indications  of  the  orchid-flowered  section 
being  considerably  improved  in  the  substance  of  the  flower,  so  that  in  a 
few  years  they  will  be  more  largely  grown. 

Varieties  with  Ornamental  Foliage— Some  of  the  varieties  are  grown 
for  the  foliage  alone;  these  are  either  slightly  variegated  or  with  the 
leaves  dark  red.  Black  Beauty  has  for  several  years  been  by  far  the 
best  of  this  class,  and  likely  to  remain  so.  It  should  never  be  planted 
out  in  a  dormant  state. 

Raising  from  Seed— The  seed  covering  is  very  hard  and  resists  the  in- 
fluence of  heat  and  moisture  for  a  long  time  under  ordinary  conditions. 
Germination  may  be  hastened  by  soaking  the  needs  in  warm  water,  and 
also  by  removing  a  very  small  piece  of  the  seed  covering.  In  any  case 
sow  early  and  in  a  bottom  heat  of  from  75  to  80  degrees. 

Storing— Cannas  should  be  lifted  from  their  Summer  quarters  just  as 
soon  as  the  foliage  is  blackened  by  the  first  frosts.  Before  this  occurs 
they  should  be  gone  over  and  labeled  correctly,  noting  the  color,  size 
and  comparative  value  of  seedlings.  Use  hanging  labels,  tying  them  on 
firmly  as  near  the  ground  as  possible.  Cut  off  the  flowering  stem  about 
6  inches  from  the  ground.  Put  the  kinds  together.  If  there  be  green- 
house accommodation  a  position  under  the  benches,- where  they  won't 
get  much  drip,  will  suit  them  exactly.  If  greenhouse  accommodation  is 
not  available  they  should  be  closely  packed  together  in  boxes,  using  dry 
sand,  and  stowed  away  where  frost  will  not  affect  the  rhizomes. 

CH^NOSTOMA  HISPIDA— This  charming  dwarf  shrub  is  not  so  well 
known  among  florists  as  its  merits  deserve.  It  is  useful  in  a  number 
of  ways,  but  principally  as  a  plant  for  filling  boxes  or  baskets.  For 
rock  work,  cemeteries  or  even  as  a  bedding  plant  it  is  prettier  than  a 
number  of  the  things  commonly  used  for  such  purposes.  It  has  a  pro- 
cumbent or  decumbent  habit,  according  to  the  position  in  which  it  finds 
itself,  and  has  the  great  merit  of  being  continually  decked  with  a  host 
of  neat  little  pinkish  white  star-shaped  flowers.  It  is  remarkably  quick 
in  making  a  bushy  growth  from  the  seedling  or  cutting  stage.  For 
propagation  lift  old  plants  in  the  Fall;  keep  in  the  greenhouse  and  take 
cuttings  from  the  young  growths  early  in  the  Spring. 

CINERARIA  MARITIMA  and  C.  CANDIDISSIHA  are  much  used  on 
account  of  their  foliage,  v/hich  is  densely  covered  with  very  fine  white 
hairs,  so  much  so  that  the  leaves  have  a  whitish  appearance.  The  most 
reliable  method  of  propagation  is  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in 
Autumn.  Cuttings  may  also  be  taken,  avoiding  those  which  are  very 
robust.  Give  them  treatment  similar  to  that  recommended  for  Gazanias. 

C0DI/6UM  (Croton)— It  is  only  within  recent  years  that  these  plants 
have  been  used  to  any  extent  in  the  open  ground.    They  succeed  well, 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  55 

putting  on  colors  much  superior  to  wliat  we  usually  see  indoors.  Some 
of  the  higher  colored  varieties  are  unsuited  for  this  work,  as  they  need  a 
high  temperature  at  night  as  well  as  during  the  day.  The  following  are 
the  kinds  which  I  have  found  reliable:  C.  Lady  Zetland,  C,  pictura,  C. 
aucubsefolium,  C.  chrysophyllum  (one  of  the  most  satisfactory),  C. 
multicolor,  C.  interruptum,  C.  Veitchii  and  C.  Weismanui.  As  these  may 
be  grown  successfully  from  10  to  15  degrees  cooler  than  C.  Reidi,  C. 
Challenger  and  others  of  that  section,  they  should  be  given  a  trial  even 
in  the  Northern  States.  The  principal  batch  of  cuttings  for  bedding 
plants  is  taken  beginning  of  September.  If  there  is  no  bottom  heat  by 
that  time  they  will  root  splendidly  in  a  close  propagating  frame.  With 
bottom  heat  they  root  in  the  open  bed,  and  the  cuttings  may  be  quite 
large.  Allow  quite  a  quantity  of  roots  to  form  before  potting.  A  mini- 
mum temperature  of  60  degrees  will  be  found  sufficient  during  Winter 
for  the  above  varieties.  Before  putting  them  in  the  ground  they  must 
be  very  gradually  hardened  off  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  lose  the  lower 
leaves.  Old  plants  should  be  given  a  top-dressing  of  bone  meal  and 
plunged  out,  to  furnish  cuttings. 

COLEUS— Owing  to  the  easy  way  in  which  young  plants  are  got  up 
their  rapid  growth  and  very  ornamental  foliage,  when  planted  out,  the 
very  numerous  kinds  will  continue  to  be  popular  bedding  plants.  In 
Winter  young  plants  should  not  be  subjected  to  a  lower  temperature 
than  55  degrees.  From  a  few  plants  grown  from  cuttings,  put  in  dur- 
ing the  beginning  of  September,  a  large  quantity  of  young  plants  may 
be  raised  in  Spring.  In  this  latitude  we  have  little  use  for  hotbeds.  In 
other  localities,  where  the  nights  are  colder  during  April  and  the  first 
half  of  May,  the  hotbed  is  an  indispensable  adjunct  to  the  greenhouse 
for  developing  plants  such  as  Coleus  from  late  rooted  cuttings. 

COSMOS  BIPINNATUS— To  have  the  plants  complete  their  growth 
early  the  seed  should  be  sown  indoors,  or  on  a  hotbed  by  the  middle  of 
March.  Give  the  seedlings  enough  light  to  avoid  weak  growth.  Plant 
out  in  rather  sandy  soil,  and  not  too  heavily  manured.  C.  sulphureus 
has  yellow  flowers;  late  blooming  plants  of  it  may  be  lifted  and  put  in 
large  pots,  or  planted  out  in  a  bench  where  there  is  abundant  head 
room.  When  grown  on  stiff  soil  the  plants  fift  easily.  Some  of  the 
more  robust  shoots  may  be  removed,  owing  to  the  loss  of  some  of  the 
roots  in  removing.  In  this  way  they  will  give  a  large  quantity  of  bloom 
up  till  the  middle  of  December. 

Supports  for  the  Plants — We  frequently  see  a  very  promising  crop  of 
Cosmos  laid  flat  on  the  ground  by  a  moderate  wind  storm,  which  not 
only  breaks  half,  or  more,  of  the  branches,  but  the  flowers  on  those 
which  are  left  are  at  least  a  week  later  than  usual  in  making  their 
appearance  and  have  crooked  stems  into  the  bargain.  Drive  in  a  fence 
post  at  each  end  of  the  row,  stout  in  proportion  to  the  length  of  row, 
with  smaller  posts  at  intervals  between;  knock  in  some  small  wire 
staples  at  convenient  heights  in  the  post;  let  one  man  unwind  wire  or 
strong  string  at  one  end  of  the  row,  and  another  take  the  end  of  the 
wire  or  string  and  put  through  the  staples,  securing  firmly  to  the  strong 
posts  at  each  end.    Two  or  three  stretches  to  each  row  will  suffice,  and 


56  BEDDING    PLANTS. 

if  tied  afterward  with  string  will  help  to  secure  the  plants  in  an  upright 
position  against  storms. 

COTYLEDON  (Echeveria)— Frequently  used  for  carpet  bedding. 
Some  of  the  best  for  this  purpose  are  C.  atropurpurea,  C.  californica,  C. 
clavifolia,  C.  fascicularis,  C.  gibbifiora  var.  metallica,  C.  secunda  var. 
glanca,C.imbricata,  C.  Pachyphytum,  C.  mirabilis,C.globosa  var.  exten- 
sa,  and  C.  eximia.  The  narrow-leaved  kinds  are  raised  in  quantity  from 
leaves;  others  from  seed,  offsets  and  from  cuttings.  November  and  De- 
cember are  the  best  months  for  propagation.  Pull  the  leaves  from  the 
plants,  taking  care  during  the  operation  that  the  bud  in  the  axil  of  the 
leaf  is  preserved.  Make  a  depression,  say  2  inches  deep  and  4  or  5  inches 
wide,  across  the  sand  bed  of  a  warm  house;  lay  two  rows  of  leaves  in 
this  with  their  bases  touching;  keep  dry  until  the  little  growths  start. 
When  large  enough  they  sliould  be  pricked  off  close  together  in  boxes. 
Old  plants  should  be  lifted  in  Autumn  and  placed  as  thickly  as  they  will 
go  in  boxes,  without  adding  much  soil  and  keeping  them  without  water 
in  a  cool  house. 

CUPHEA  PLATYCENTRA  and  C.  LLAV^— A  few  plants  Wintered 
over  in  a  moderately  warm  house  will  give  cuttings  in  March.  C.  Llavae 
has  large  and  handsome  flowers,  but  they  are  not  freely  produced  until 
the  plants  have  made  considerable  growth. 

DAHLIAS — The  Dahlia  delights  in  a  cool  and  humid  atmosphere,  but 
immediately  the  mercury  gets  anywhere  near  the  freezing  point  that  is 
the  end  of  the  plant's  usefulness  for  the  season.  Old  plants  are  cut  back 
to  within  6  inches  of  the  soil,  dug  up,  and  the  soil  removed  from  the 
fleshy  tuber-like  roots;  they  are  then  stored  for  the  Winter  in  a  dry  and 
frost-proof  structure. 

Propagation— Although  the  kinds  are  perpetuated  by  division,  graft- 
ing and  cuttings,  the  latter  method  is  the  one  best  suited  for  raising 
large  quantities  of  young  plants.  The  roots  are  brought  into  heat 
about  the  1st  of  March,  covered  over  with  some  light  soil,  and  encour- 
aged to  make  growth  by  frequent  syringing.  As  soon  as  the  shoots  are 
3  or  1:  inches  long,  separate  from  the  parent,  taking  them  with  a  heel. 
They  can  then  either  be  put  singly  in  small  pots  and  kept  close  and 
warm  until  rooted,  or  put  in  an  ordinary  propagating  bed  with  a  bot- 
tom heat  of  75  degrees.  The  sand  need  not  be  kept  very  moist,  but  the 
atmosphere  should  contain  enough  moisture  to  prevent  wilting.  As 
soon  as  weather  permits  the  plants  should  be  put  out  in  a  frame  to 
harden. 

Varieties— The  large  and  perfectly  symmetrical  flowers  are  rather 
stiff  and  artiticial  looking  for  cutting  purposes.  The  cactus-flowered 
section  do  not  have  this  fault;  nearly  all  of  them  are  well  worth  grow- 
ing. The  Pompons,  especially  those  with  white  flowers,  can  be  utilized 
for  various  purposes.  The  single-flowered  varieties  can  all  be  used  for 
cutting;  this  section  seeds  freely,  and  some  of  the  strains  offered  by 
European  seedsmen  come  remarkably  true,  but  good  kinds  should  be 
perpetuated  from  cuttings. 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  57 

Soil— This  should  be  very  rich  and  light,  and  if  the  plants  are  put  in 
positions  where  it  is  inconvenient  to  water  them  during  dry  weather 
they  should  get  a  mulching  of  half-decayed  stable  bedding. 

ERYTHRINA— The  varieties  of  E.  Crista-Galli  are  seldom  without 
flowers  during  the  hottest  months  when  ijlanted  out.  During  Winter 
they  should  be  kept  dry, under  a  bench, and  may  even  be  put  out  iu  that 
state,  although  quicker  results  may  be  had  by  starting  them  into 
growth  before  planting.  They  are  best  propagated  by  glvin;j:  the  old 
plants  heat  and  moisture,  to  produce  growths  about  the  1st  of  March. 
When  a  few  inches  long  take  off  with  a  heel,  pot  iu  siyidy  soil  and  stand 
them  in  a  warm  propagating  frame. 

FICUS  ELASTICA  may  be  associated  with  such  plants  as  Vm negated 
Screw  Pines,  Crotous,  Variegated  Panax  and  Dracaena  Sanderiana  in 
the  formation  of  tropical  groups  of  plants.  They  make  very  rapid  prog- 
ress when  plunged  in  5-inch  pots  shortly  after  being  potted  from  8-inch 
pots.  All  of  these  may  be  arranged  where  the  full  sun  will  strike  them. 
The  Ficus  must  be  examined  from  time  to  time,  to  prevent  the  roots 
from  establishing  themselves  outside  of  the  pots. 

QAZANIAS— Decumbent  composite  plants  from  South  Africa,  of  a 
somewhat  succulent  growth,  and  succeeding  well  in  partially  shaded 
positions.  In  the  Northern  States  they  thrive  in  full  sun.  The  flowers 
are  large,  deep  orange.  Owing  to  the  succulent  character  of  the  plants 
the  cuttings  are  liable  to  decay  when  placed  in  wet  sand.  Put  them  in 
boxes,  using  sandy  loam.  Make  the  soil  quite  firm;  give  one  good 
watering,  then  put  in  the  cuttings  and  keep  in  a  cold  but  close  frame 
until  rooted.  This  may  be  done  about  the  end  of  September;  on  the 
approach  of  severe  weather  bring  the  boxes  into  a  cool  greenhouse  and 
pot  off  in  early  Spring. 

GERANIUn— See  Pelargonium. 

HELIOTROPE  (Heliotropium  peruvianum)— Grown  principally  on  ac- 
count of  the  sweet-scented  flowers.  There  are  dark  and  light  lilac  varie- 
ties, also  a  few  with  whitish  flowers.  A  few  years  ago  a  very  large-flowered 
kind  was  sent  out,  but  it  had  no  perfume,  and  its  first  season  was  its  last. 
The  kinds  will  succeed  best  in  full  sun.  Old  plants  should  be  wintered, 
planted  out  on  a  bench.  A  minimum  temperature  of  40  degrees  will  suit. 
From  these  plants  abundant  material  for  propagation  may  be  had  in 
early  Spring. 

HUNNEMANNIA  FUMARI^FOLIA,  for  late  Summer  and  Fall  cutting, 
beats  all  other  members  of  the  Poppy  family.  Seeds  of  the  earliest 
flowers  will  have  ripened  by  the  end  of  September.  They  should  be 
gathered  and  laid  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  sowing  in  early  Spring, 
taking  care  not  to  burst  the  seed  vessels.  The  only  difliculty  attending 
the  cultivation  of  this  Poppy  is  in  the  seedling  stage.  The  young  plants 
are  difficult  to  transfer  from  the  seed  pan  to  small  pots,  but  this  can  be 
avoided  if  the  seeds  are  sown  in  small  pots,  with  the  soil  firmly  pressed 
before  sowing  and  shifted  on  as  the  plants  require  it.  The  flowers  resem- 
ble those  of  some  of  the  Eschscholtzias,  to  which  genus  it  is  closely 
allied;  but  there  Is  much  more  substance  to  the  flowers  of  the  Hunne- 


58  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

maDnia  and  also  to  the  flower  stem».  They  can  be  cut  and  kept  in 
excellent  condition  for  several  days.  It  thrives  well  in  sandy  soil,  and 
needs  but  little  attention  in  the  way  of  watering  after  planting  out.  It 
sometimes  stands  the  Winters  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  but  oftener  it 
gets  killed  outright. 

ISOTOHA  LONGIFLORA— This  plant  is  figured  in  Curtis'  Botanical 
Magazine  under  the  name  of  Lobelia  longiflora.  It  belongs  to  the  order 
CampanulaceaB.  In  Europe  it  is  grown  as  a  greenhouse  subject.  In 
America  it  is  one  of  our  most  showy  white  flowering  biennials  for  the 
open  border.  The*  plants  before  coming  in  bloom  are  anything  but 
attractive,  as  they  closely  resemble  some  of  our  common  coarse-grow- 
ing weeds.  The  flowers,  on  large  plants,  are  anything  but  sparingly 
produced;  they  are  pure  white,  an  inch  or  so  across  the  petals.  Sow 
the  seed  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  the  Autumn,  or  in  a  warm  house  early  in 
Spring.  Each  plant  will  ripen  an  immense  quantity  of  seed. 

IRESINE  (Achyranthes)— As  a  bedding  plant,  treat  much  the  same 
as  Coleus.  They  will  stand  a  lower  temperature.  Cuttings  put  In  dur- 
ing September  can  be  used  as  stock  plants  in  the  Spring. 

LANTANA— Low-growing  greenhouse  shrubs  with  yellow,  white,  red 
and  purple  flowers  in  small,  close  heads.  They  are  perfectly  at  home  in 
the  open  border,  growing  most  luxuriantly  in  heavy,  well-manured  soil. 
The  leaves  and  flowers  have  an  undesirable  odor,  which  is  against  their 
ever  becoming  very  popular.  Take  cuttings  early,  and  from  plants  thus 
raised  they  may  be  further  propagated  during  February.  A  minimum 
temperature  of  50  degrees  will  suit  all  of  the  kinds. 

LOBELIA  ERINUS— -A  very  popular  bedding  plant  in  Europe,  but 
short-lived  here,  owing  principally  to  the  high  temperature  during  mid- 
summer. A  few  old  plants  kept  on  a  bench  along  with  such  things  as 
Heliotrope  and  Ageratum  will  give]  fine  cuttings,  which  are  rooted  be- 
ginning of  March  and  transferred  to  a  hotbed,  to  make  growth. 

MESEMBRYANTHEHUM— The  pretty  little  variegated  Ice  plant, 
known  under  the  name  of  Mesembryanthemum  cordifolium  variegatum, 
has  a  habit  of  damping  off  in  the  propagating  bed  when  treated  like  the 
majority  of  bedding  plants.  A  way  to  circumvent  this  is  to  prepare 
shallow  boxes  of  sand  ana  leaf-soil.  Give  one  good  watering  previous 
to  putting  in  the  cutting.  Let  the  ''oxes  stand  for  a  few  hours,  put  in 
the  cuttings  quite  close  together  and  stand  them  on  a  bench  over  the 
heating  pipes.  Give  no  more  water  till  rooted;  that  is,  if  the  soil  does 
not  become  too  dry;  in  this  case  the  cuttings  should  not  be  watered  with 
a  rose.  This  variety  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  dwarf  bedding  plants,  and 
should  be  more  commonly  grown.  M.  crystallium,  M.  tricolor,  with 
pink  and  white  flowers,  and  M.  amoena,  the  latter  an  evergreen  species, 
are  all  used  for  outdoor  planting.  The  annual  kinds  should  be  sown 
indoors  beginning  of  March.  Cuttings  of  the  perennial  kinds  should  be 
rooted  in  Autumn. 

MIGNONETTE,  (Reseda)— For  pot  culture  sow  beginning  of  Septem- 
ber in  3-inch  pots;  leave  three  of  the  strongest  seedlings  in  each  pot,  and 
long  before  the  plants  are  pot-bound  shift  into  5-inch  pots.    Keep  in  the 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  59 

coolest  house,  where'  they  can  be  given  abundant  ventilation  and  full 
sun  at  all  times.  About  two  quarts  of  soot  to  a  barrel  of  water  makes 
a  good  liquid  manure.  For  blooming  out-of-doors  sow  thinly  as  soon 
as  weather  permits. 

For  early  flowering  seed  may  be  sown  during  the  first  half  of  August. 
The  method  of  sowing  the  seed  on  the  benches  is  the  one  there  is  the 
least  difficulty  with,  and  that  calling  for  the  least  amount  of  intelli- 
gent care,  as  a  number  of  seeds  can  be  sown  at  each  station  where  they 
are  intended  to  flower,  and  the  strongest  plants  left.  This  system  is 
not  always  convenient,  however.  Other  methods  consist  of  sowing  in 
pots  and  planting  from  them,  or  in  boxes  or  pans,  and  pricked  out  from 
these  into'small  pots,  shifting  if  necessary,  and  planting  out  when  the 
proper  time  arrives.  Mignonette  seedlings,  when  they  get  beyond  a 
certain  size,  are  exceedingly  difficult  to  prick  off  successfully;  but  when 
taken  as  soon  as  they  can  be  handled  there  is  little  danger  of  failure  if 
ordinary  precautions  are  taken  against  damping  off,  suffering  from  too 
much  or  too  little  water,  or  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  until  the 
seedlings  are  established.  Mignonette  likes  cool  treatment,  so  that 
attempts  to  coddle  it  by  giving  a  high,  close  atmosphere  will  not  pro- 
duce flowers  worth  the  cutting,  if  they  ever  reach  the  flowering  stage. 
The  soil  to  grow  it  in  should  be  well  enriched  with  cow  manure,  and 
well  firmed  before  either  sowing  or  planting.  There  are  several  kinds 
on  the  market  to  select  from;  but  there  is  not  so  much  in  the  variety  as 
in  the  way  it  is  grown. 

MIMULUS  MOSCHATUS— An  old-fashioned  plant  with  a  musky  odor. 
It  will  keep  in  a  frame  during  the  Winter,  and  may  be  brought  indoors 
early  in  the  season,  divided  into  small  pieces  and  potted.  It  grows  best 
in  a  shaded  cool  house,  or  it  may  be  planted  out  in  a  moist  shady  spot. 

niRABILIS  JALAPA— This  species  (the  Marvel  of  Peru  or  Four 
o'clock)  has  tuberous  roots,  and  in  Winter  may  be  stored  in  the  same 
way  as  the  roots  of  the  Dahlia,  or  raised  annually  from  seeds  sown  in- 
doors. The  flowers  are  very  showy,  of  various  colors,  principally  yel- 
low, crimson,  red  and  white. 

NlEREriBERQIA  FRUTESCENS  and  N.  GRACILIS— Seeds  of  these 
should  be  sown  in  September  and  plants  wintered  in  a  frame.  The  fol- 
lowing Summer  they  will  make  much  better  subjects  than  from  Spring- 
sown  seed.  They  are  principally  used  in  large  vases,  but  they  make 
exceedingly  showy  plants  for  the  rock  garden  and  border. 

NIQELLA  DAflASCENA— As  soon  as  the  weather  permits  seeds  may 
be  sown  rather  thinly  where  the  plants  are  intended  to  bloom  in  the 
open  border. 

OXALIS— For  outdoor  blooming  during  September  and  October 
knock  out  a  few  plants  from  their  flowering  pots  and  start  some  of  the 
largest  bulbs  about  the  middle  of  July  in  3-inch  pots.  Use  light  soil. 
Some  of  the  plants  will  be  in  flower  inside  of  a  month.  They  can  be  used 
as  bedders,  to  take  the  places  of  plants  which  die  off  as  the  result  of 
warm  weather;  for  instance,  Ten-Week  Stocks,  Lobelias  and  Pansies. 
Oxalis  Bowiei,  O.  hirta,  O.  rosacea,  and  one  which  goes  under  the  name 


60  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

of  O.  crydentelles,  are  all  very  suitable  for  this  kind  of  work.  Plants 
which  were  in  bloom  during  the  Winter  and  Spring  may  be  started  for 
this  purpose  after  a  few  weeks  rest. 

PANDANUS— For  bedding  purposes  the  best  plant  in  this  genus  is 
P.  Veitchii.  It  will  thrive  in  almost  any  position,  but  it  makes  better 
leaves  in  full  sun  than  it  does  in  shade.  As  young  plants  increase  in 
value  up  to  a  certain  size,  they  should  be  put  out  in  their  pots,  and  once 
or  twice  during  Summer  should  be  examined  at  the  roots  and  larger 
pots  given  if  necessary.  The  roots  are  large  and  soft,  and  when  they 
grow  over  the  sides  of  the  plunged  pot  and  into  the  surrounding  soil 
they  are  difficult  to  manage  afterward. 

PANSIES  (Viola)— To  have  pansy  plants  ready  to  put  out  in  the  Fall 
the  seed  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  August,  and  even  earlier, 
where  the  weather  will  permit.  In  the  very  warm  weather  the  princi- 
Ijal  danger  is  in  the  damping  of  the  seedling  plantsshortly  after  they  have 
germinated.  Sow  thinly  and  cover  lightly  with  screened  moss,  or  old 
manure,  giving  only  enough  water  to  keep  the  surface  slightly  moist. 
In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  it  will  require  good  judgment  in 
selecting  a  suitable  place  for  the  seed  boxes  during  germination.  One 
can  be  secured  by  raising  some  shaded  sash  above  them,  in  a  place 
where  the  air  is  not  apt  to  get  stagnant.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are 
large  enough  to  handle,  they  should  be  pricked  out  in  boxes  of  moder- 
ately moist  soil,  and  for  some  time  only  given  gentle  sprinklings  through 
a  fine  rose  to  prevent  wilting.  They  are  put  in  their  Winter  quarters  by 
the  beginning  of  October  and  given  a  mulching  of  rotted  manure  shortly 
afterward.  In  this  way  they  can  be  grown  in  the  same  beds  with  low 
growing  bulbous  plants,  such  as  Crocus,  Galanthus  or  Scillas,  these 
bulbs  going  out  of  flower  just  as  the  Pansies  are  coming  in,  securing  a 
season  of  bloom  from  the  time  when  the  snow  disappears  until  very 
warm  weather,  or,  in  Northern  latitudes,  all  Summer  long.  In  some 
parts  the  plants  make  sufficient  progress  before  the  advent  of  cool 
weather,  not  only  to  bloom,  but  to  send  up  numerous  shoots  from  the 
base  of  the  plant.  This  is  a  good  opportunity  to  select  cuttings  of  the 
finest  forms  to  raise  seed  from.  Take  those  cuttings  having  a  small 
piece  of  solid  stem;  put  in  sand,  treating  them  as  cool  as  possible.  As 
soon  as  rooted  place  in  boxes  of  light  soil  and  Winter  in  frames,  plant- 
ing out  as  soon  as  weather  will  permit.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  plants  put  out  in  the  Fall  always  give  the  best  results  in  Spring. 

Pansies  to  Flower  in  Frames— If  sown  early  enough  and  potted  off 
the  seedlings  will  show  the  colors  before  planting  and  thus  enable  the 
grower  to  select  those  which  are  best  for  selling.  These  should  be 
planted  in  a  frame  facing  south  so  that  they  will  catch  all  of  the  sun- 
shine available  during  the  Winter  months.  If  pinched  back  frequently  it 
will  induce  the  plants  to  make  bushy  growth  before  freezing  weather; 
then  mulch  with  leaf  soil  or  old  manure,  giving  air  whenever  the  weather 
will  allow  of  it.  They  will  throw  up  an  amazing  quantity  of  bloom 
early  in  the  season,  which  will  pay  to  cut  with  the  foliage  attached  so 
that  good  long  stems  can  be  secured.  Pansy  seed  should  be  sown  in 
very  shallow  boxes.    The  plants  delight  iu  a  low  temperature  and  a 


BEDDING   PLANTS.  61 

soil  which  is  open  enough  to  enable  the  email  succulent  roots  to  ramify 
freely  through  it.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  the  soil  largely  of  vegetable 
humus;  one  that  answers  well  may  be  made  up  as  follows:  Screen 
some  soil  through  a  No.  8  sieve;  the  rough  material  which  does  not  go 
through  the  meshes  put  through  a  No.  3  sieve.  This,  mixed  with  leaf 
soil,  to  one-third  of  its  bulk,  will  insure  a  good  germination.  The  idea 
is  to  keep  the  roots  in  a  healthy  growing,  state  with  abundance  of  air 
around  the  seed  leaves  to  prevent  damping  off.  Pansies  do  better  out- 
side during  Winter  than  most  people  suppose.  Planted  early  with  a 
little  mulching,  and  if  the  weather  gets  very  severe,  some  old  stable 
bedding  thrown  over  them,  will  give  all  the  protection  necessary.  For 
plants  for  Spring  sales  the  seed  may  be  sown  late  and  Wintered  in  cold 
frames,  or  it  may  be  sown  early  in  the  Spring;  but  the  most  satisfactory 
plants  are  obtained  from  early  sowing. 

Tufted  Pansies— These  are  what  the  Scotch  florists  up  to  within  a  few 
years  ago  used  to  call  bedding  Violas;  but  as  Pansies,  tufted  Pansies 
and  Violets  are  all  members  of  the  genus  Viola,  the  use  of  the  generic 
name  for  any  one  section  of  the  genus  has  generally  been  discarded. 
The  tufted  varieties  are  hybrids  from  V.  cornuta,  V.  lutea  and  V.  trico- 
lor. They  spread  at  the  root  much  more  than  the  ordinary  Pansies  do, 
making  a  great  mass  of  flowers,  especially  in  cool  climates,  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  Summer.  After  Pansies  having  become  so  popular 
in  this  country  I  am  afraid  the  tufted  Pansy  would  have  a  struggle  for 
existence  in  the  estimation  of  the  ordinary  flower  lover.  Although  in 
the  tufted  Pansies  there  is  a  greater  diversity  of  color,  more  graceful 
flowers,  and  the  plants  are  very  floriferous,  the  flowers  are  much  smaller 
than  in  the  ordinary  .Pansy,  and  it  is  a  question  if  they  would  become 
popular. 

PELARaONIUn-(This  genus  includes  the  bedding  Geranium).  Cut- 
tings are  rooted  during  the  end  of  September  or  first  half  of  October, 
according  to  locality.  Plants  that  are  well  developed  without  being 
"drawn"  are  best  for  supplying  wood.  The  usual  method  is  to  put 
each  cutting  in  a  thumb  pot  and  stand  these  close  together  for  the  time 
being  in  a  frame  or  cool  house.  Leaf  mould,  sand  and  loam  in  equal 
parts  will  answer  as  a  soil.  Give  one  watering,  enough  to  moisten  the 
soil;  subsequent  waterings  will  be  necessary  only  when  it  gets  dry. 
Take  the  cutting  immediately  under  a  joint  and  shorten  back  the  large 
leaf  blades  one  half.  By  the  end  of  the  year  they  should  be  shifted  into 
3-inch  pots,  using  stronger  soil,  and  a  month  or  six  weeks  later  the 
plants  will  give  a  batch  of  cuttings  which  may  be  potted  like  the  first 
lot.  A  hot,  stagnant  atmosphere  must  be  avoided  at  all  times.  A  sav- 
ing of  time  and  space  may  be  accomplished,  together  with  providing 
equally  fine  plants,  if  the  old  method  of  propagation  be  adhered  to. 
This  consists  in  putting  the  cuttings,  made  with  the  leaf  blades  short- 
ened somewhat,  into  boxes  pretty  thickly  together,  standing  the  boxes 
outside,  partly  shaded  from  the  sun  until  they  root.  Little  water  is 
given  during  the  operation,  and  heavy  rains  are  to  be  guarded  against 
by  having  sash  ready  to  cover  the  plants.  The  soil  used  should  be  such 
as  to  enable  the  rooted  cuttings  to  thrive  in  it  until  January  when  they 


62  BEDDING    PLANTS. 

are  potted  up.  If  kept  on  the  dry  side  they  will  bear  considerable  cold, 
and  will  be  prevented  from  making  a  too  rapid  growth.  By  this 
method  there  should  be  no  necessity  for  putting  in  a  second  batch  of 
cuttings  from  the  tops  of  the  first  lot.  Give  this  method  a  trial  on  a 
small  scale,  until  familiar  with  its  working. 

Ivy=Ieaved  Section— The  stems  of  these  are  not  so  succulent  as  those 
of  the  Zonales,  and  should  be  rooted  in  the  sand  bed.  Old  plants  potted 
up  after  being  cut  back  will  give  abundant  material  for  propagation. 

Fancy  Pelargoniums  are  of  no  service  for  bedding,  as  they  have  only 
a  short  flowering  period.  In  this  latitude  they  are  never  seen  at  their 
best,  and  it  hardly  pays  to  grow  them.  In  the  Northern  States  they  do 
better.  Cuttings  should  be  put  in  early,  and  kept  in  a  growing  condi- 
tion from  the  start.  Large  plants  are  secured  by  reducing  the  balls  of 
one  or  two-year  old  plants  and  repotting. 

PENT  AS  CARNEA— More  familiar  as  a  stove  plant  than  for  bedding 
purposes.  In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country,  however,  it  will  give 
three  months  of  rather  showy  bloom.  Treat  the  cuttings  similarly  to 
those  of  Lantana. 

PERISTROPHE  ANQUSTIFOLIA— A  rather  loose  growing,  but  dwarf 
and  finely  variegated  plant,  useful  for  vases  and  baskets.  Propagate 
in  Spring  from  lifted  plants. 

PETUNIAS— It  Is  always  advisable  to  sow  the  best  strains  of  the 
double  Petunia  seed,  as  the  majority  of  the  seedhngs  will  furnish  all  the 
single  flowered  plants  necessary  for  ordinary  use.  The  doubles  can 
easily  be  picked  out  from  the  singles  before  the  flowering  period.  They 
are  known  by  their  stocky  appearance,  the  singles  having  a  decidedly 
"annual"  look  shortly  after  the  seedling  stage  has  been  passed.  In 
order  to  prevent  washing  of  the  soil  after  the  seed  is  sown,  use  boxes, 
say  3  inches  deep;  put  a  shallow  layer  of  sphagnum  in  the  bottom, 
make  the  soil  firm,  give  a  watering  sufficient  to  wet  the  soil  through; 
then  when  the  surface  will  admit  of  the  operation  roughen  it  with  the 
ends  of  the  fingers.  Sow  the,  seed  thinly  and  smooth  the  surface  with 
the  end  of  a  cigar  box  without  covering  with  soil.  A  pane  of  glass  or  a 
piece  of  damp  cloth  placed  over  the  box  will  prevent  a  too  rapid  evap- 
oration of  the  moisture  till  the  seeds  have  germinated.  They  may  be 
sown  during  the  first  part  of  February. 

PHLOX  DRU/VinONDII— The  numerous  varieties  of  this  popular  flower 
should  be  sown  by  the  middle  of  February.  The  single  whites  and  reds 
are  most  in  demand.  In  sowing  cover  the  seeds  with  sphagnum  rubbed 
through  a  No.  4  sieve.  In  a  moderate  temperature  they  will  germinate 
inside  of  a  week.  After  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  should  be 
pricked  off  into  boxes  from  which  they  should  be  transferred  to  pots 
later  in  the  season.  When  put  in  pots  during  the  seedling  stage  they  are 
apt  to  throw  up  flowering  stems,  and  become  hard  before  sufficient 
growth  has  been  formed.  For  late  flowering  plants  a  batch  of  seed  may 
be  sown  beginning  of  May;  these  will  be  of  most  service  if  white  varie- 
ties are  selected. 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  63 

PLUMBAGO  CAPENSIS  is  usually  treated  as  a  greenkouse  plant.  It 
blooms  after  midsummer  on  the  current  year's  growth.  Our  warm 
Summers  are  very  favorable  to  its  growth  out-of-doors,  and  it  certainly 
ought  to  be  largely  grown  for  this  purpose,  as  there  is  no  other  plant 
which  can  supply  the  color  (light  blue)  so  abundantly.  Plants  from 
Fall  struck  cuttings  will  be  large  enough  by  planting  out  time  to  fill  4- 
inch  pots,  and  they  ought  to  be  planted  out  from  this  size  for  early 
blooming,  as  younger  plants  are  too  apt  to  make  growth  instead  of 
flower.  The  best  flowering  plants  are  those  which  have  been  AVintered 
over  in  a  dormant  state,  the  larger  the  better;  by  midsummer  they  are 
a  solid  mass  of  bloom.  There  is  a  white  flowered  form  which  goes  well 
with  the  blue  one,  but  this  should  not  be  confounded  with  P.  zeylanica 
—a  worthless  species. 

RICINUS  (Castor  Bean)— This  grows,  according  to  variety,  from  5  to 
15  feet  in  height.  R.  zanzibarensis,  a  green-leaved  form,  continues 
growing  all  Summer  and  does  not  even  ripen  its  seeds  in  this  locality. 
R.  Gibsoni  has  blood-red  foliage.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  beginning 
of  April  in  small  pots,  as  they  form  a  large  mass  of  roots  quickly  after 
germinating. 

SALVIA  SPLENDENS,  the  scarlet  Sage,  is  the  most  used  of  this  exten- 
sive genus  for  bedding  purposes.  Young  plants  are  raised  early  in 
Spring  from  cuttings  taken  from  lifted  and  headed  back  plants.  S. 
marmorata,  S.  Wm.  Bedman,  S.  alba  and  S.  Mrs.  Stevens  are  all  well- 
known  kinds. 

SANCHEZIA  NOBILIS  puts  on  a  very  rampant  growth  when  placed 
out-of-doors  in  rich  soil.  Although  a  bed  of  Cannas  may  look  best  by 
themselves,  a  border  is  often  wanted  of  some  other  plant;  this  species 
will  answer  well  for  such  a  purpose.  Good-sized  cuttings  root  very 
freely.  They  may  be  Wintered  in  3-inch  pots  in  a  moderately  warm 
house. 

SANTOLINA  INCANA— Although  a  perfectly  hardy,  dwarf  shrub,  it  is 
frequently  used  for  Summer  effects  in  carpet  bedding.  It  can  be  rooted 
any  time  before  frost,  in  boxes  of  sand  kept  in  a  cool,  close  frame,  or 
from  old  plants  wintered  in  a  frame.  Cuttings  may  be  secured  in  Spring. 

SWAINSONA — Not  only  is  this  plant  useful  for  Winter  blooming,  but 
early  struck  cuttings  grown  in  well-drained  soil  will  flower  well  in  Sum- 
mer. Old  cut  back  plants  which  have  flowered  during  the  previous 
Winter  will  also  supply  an  abundance  of  bloom  when  planted  out. 

STROBILANTHES  DYERIANUS— This  species,  especially  in  a  young 
state,  has  foliage  suggestive  of  some  of  the  highly -colored  Bertolonias. 
Its  treatment  should  be  similar  to  that  afforded  the  Coleus,  so  far  as 
Wintering  and  propagating  are  concerned.  When  planted  out  in  the  full 
sun,  the  leaves  are  apt  to  have  a  washed-out  appearance,  especially  on 
old  plants.    A  situation  having  partial  shade  is  best. 

TAGETES— Some  of  the  Mexican  species  are  useful  for  late  blooming. 
In  the  open  border  they  are  among  the  last  plants  in  flower.    The  im- 


64  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

proved  kinds  may  be  sown  in  a  gentle  hotbed  and  transplanted  to  where 
they  are  to  bloom. 

VERBENAS — The  varieties  of  these  used  to  be  kept  true  to  name,  the 
plants  lifted  in  the  Fall  and  cuttings  taken  in  early  Spring.  Seeds  can 
now  be  depended  upon  to  furnish  the  finest  flowering  plants.  They 
should  be  sown  in  February  and  the  seedlings  potted  as  soon  as  large 
enough.  Pinching  should  be  done  early  to  make  the  plants  branch  and 
have  them  in  bloom  by  planting-out  time. 

V.  venosa,  an  herbaceous  species,  with  heads  of  purple  flowers,  Is 
hardy  in  the  Middle  States.  It  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  at  the 
same  period  as  the  garden  varieties,  or  from  division  of  the  roots  in  the 
early  part  of  April. 

TORENIA  FOURNIERI  is  none  too  common  yet  as  a  half-hardy  annual. 
Although  it  will  germinate  outside  it  takes  too  long  a  time  in  blooming. 
Owing  to  the  color  of  the  flowers  (different  shades  of  violet)  it  is  desira- 
ble, as  bedding  plants  of  that  color  are  not  plentiful.  Sow  indoors  mid- 
dle of  March  and  allow  the  seedlings  to  gain  a  considerable  headway 
before  potting.  T.  asiatica  and  T.  Bailloni  are  well  suited  for  basket  or 
vase  work,  as  they  are  of  a  procumbent  habit.  T.  Fournieri  is  of  erect 
growth. 

TROP/COLUM  ( Indian  Cress )— With  the  exception  of  the  double-flowered 
forms,  which  are  perpetuated  by  cuttings,  those  varieties  commonly 
grown  are  raised  annually  from  seeds.  The  seed  must  not  be  sown  too 
early,  because  they  make  rajjid  progress,  and  are  apt  to  produce  spin- 
dling growth  in  small  pots.  T.  majus  and  dwarf  forms  and  T.  Lobbi- 
anum  are  well  known  and  useful  as  climbers,  or  for  planting  in  beds. 
All  of  them  are  quite  tender,  and  should  be  put  out  rather  late. 

VINCA  ROSEA— The  Madagascar  Periwinkle  should  be  sown  about 
the  beginning  of  January,  to  have  fair-sized  plants  by  the  beginning  of 
May.  Sow  the  seed  thinly,  and  when  large  enough  prick  off  into  boxes. 
From  these  the  seedlings  may  be  shifted  into  3-iuch  pots,  from  which 
th.y  are  transferred  to  the  open  ground.  There  are  three  kinds  which 
come  true  from  seed,  one  with  rose-colored  flowers,  one  pure  white,  and 
the  third  has  white  flowers  with  pink  center.  They  are  among  the  most 
satisfactory  of  bedding  plants. 

ZINNIAS— Very  gaudy  flowering  annuals  of  the  Daisy  family.  The 
tall-growing  kinds  have  given  way  to  the  dwarf  and  much  more  showy 
varieties.  Sow  seed  about  the  end  of  March  and  prick  off  into  boxes  of 
rather  rich  soil.    Harden  them  off  in  a  frame  before  planting  out. 


65 


Vase  and  Basket  Plants* 

When  vases  have  to  be  filled  with  only  one  kind  of  plant,  hardly 
anything  will  be  found  more  appropriate  than  the  Russelias.  The 
branches  are  erect  in  a  young  state,  eventually  becoming  drooping.  If 
the  plants  are  put  in  a  light,  rich  soil,  with  abundance  of  water 
during  the  growing  period,  they  will  be  in  bloom  most  of  the  time. 
Only  one-year-old  plants  should  be  used  for  large  vases;  that  is, 
plants  in  6  or  7-inch  pots,  as  when  of  that  size  they  soon  become  fur- 
nished with  good-sized  branches.  The  old  and  well-known  Russelia 
juncea  is  the  best  for  the  purpose,  although  R.  sarmentosa  and  R.  Lemoinei 
are  both  good,  giving  a  greater  number  of  flowers,  which,  however,  are 
smaller;than  those  of  R.  juncea.  Among  those  plants  needed  for  the  center 
of  vases,  Pandanus  Veitchii  and  the  numerous  varieties  of  the  grassy- 
leaved  species  of  Cordyline,  such  as  C.  australis  and  C.  indivisa,  are 
among  the  best.  Last  year's  seedlings  of  the  Cordy lines,  if  they  have 
been  liberally  treated,  will  be  large  enough  by  the  beginning  of  the  sea- 
son for  all  ordinary  purposes.  They  stand  the  hot  sun  well.  Pandanus 
Veitchii  colors  well  under  full  sunshine,  but  needs  more  water  than  the 
Cordylines.  P.  Baptlstii,  of  which  much  was  expected  as  an  outdoor 
Summer  plant,  is  rather  disappointing,  as  its  foliage  is  too  tender  for 
exposed  places.  Other  good  things  for  vases  and  baskets,  in  the  shape 
of  flowering  and  trailing  plants,  are  the  three  species  of  Torenia,  two 
purple  and  one  yellow,  besides  the  so-called  white  variety,  and  Mau- 
randya  Barclayana,  all  of  which  may  be  got  under  way  from  seed  in  a 
short  time;  Mesembryanthemum  cordifolium,  Germany  Ivy;  all  the 
trailing  Vincas  and  Abutilon  vexillarium  are  indispensable.  The  varie- 
gated ground  Ivy  will  stand  the  sun  well  in  exposed  situations;  it  is 
dwarf  growing  and  comes  in  handy  for  planting  around  the  edges  of 
vases  and  baskets,  where  its  long  hanging  growths  can  be  seen  to 
advantage.  Stock  of  it,  kept  in  boxes  under  the  cover  of  sash,  should 
be  cut  up  during  the  early  Spring,  and  small  pieces  with  roots  attached 
placed  in  sandy  soil  in  boxes,  and  either  returned  to  the  frame  or 
brought  into  a  cool  house,  to  be  started  into  growth  previous  to 
potting. 

Saxifraga  sarmentosa  ("Aaron's  Beard")  is  a  very  hardy  species  with 
ornamental  flowers  and  foliage.  It  thrives  out-of-doors  all  the  year 
round  in  positions  partly  shaded  from  the  sun.  By  the  first  of  March 
fair-sized  plants  may  be  put  in  3-inch  pots.  It  is  suitable  for  baskets, 
vases  and  boxes,  which  do  not  get  much  sun.  There  is  a  variegated 
form  with  striking  foliage. 

Senecio  scandens  ("German  Ivy") — A  few  plants  struck  from  cuttings 
in  the  Fall  will  give  growth  for  a  large  number  of  cuttings  after  the  first 
of  the  year. 


66  VASE   AND   BASKET  PLANTS. 

Othonna  crassifolia  ("Little  Pickles")— This  plant  will  stand  full  sun- 
shine with  very  little  water.  It  is  of  procumbent  growth  with,  small 
yellow  flowers.  Lift  a  few  old  plants  before  frost,  and  merely  lay  them 
on  the  front  of  a  sunny  bench.  A  dozen  or  two  nice  little  tufts  may  be 
potted  up  from  a  single  plant. 

Lysimachia  nummularia,  the  Money  Wort,  will  thrive  in  shade  or 
sun.    There  is  a  pretty  variety  with  yellowish  leaves.  , 

Ipomaea  Tubiculata— With  small  star-shaped  leaves,  throws  out  quan- 
tities of  hanging  growths.  Every  bit  of  stem  with  a  leaf  attached  will 
root  either  in  Fall  or  Spring. 

Vinca  major  var.  elegantissima  comes  in  very  serviceable,  not  only  for 
vases  and  baskets,  but  for  indoor  decoration.  Specimens  for  this  pur- 
pose should  be  in  5-inch  pots,  or  even  larger.  Plants  rooted  early  in 
the  Fall  and  kept  growing  will,  in  course  of  time,  make  very  long 
growths.  A  good  place  for  them  in  this  condition  of  growth  is  on  the 
front  of  a  sunny  bench,  where  the  growths  are  allowed  to  hang  over  the 
side.  This  plant  does  not  show  the  effects  of  neglect  as  quickly  as  most 
other  things. 

For  Indoor  Boxes  for  Windows  or  other  places  where  there  is  not 
much  light  the  following  plants  will  be  found  useful,  as  they  are  almost 
hardy,  and,  with  ordinary  care,  they  will  last  a  long  time  in  a  presenta- 
ble condition:  Eohdea  japonica  and  the  variegated  form  will  stand  in 
the  coldest  places.  These  plants,  by  the  way,  are  perfectly  hardy  here, 
the  foliage  being  but  slightly  browned  during  the  coldest  weather. 
Aspidistra  elatior  and  A.  e.  variegata,  together  with  the  spotted  leaved 
species  called  A.  punctata,  while  not  so  hardy  as  the  Eohdea,  yet  they  will 
stand  a  good  deal  of  cold.  Of  course,  the  plants  will  have  to  be  small, 
in  5  or  6-inch  pots.  Old  plants  broken  up  for  this  purpose  and  immedi- 
ately used  are  not  to  be  depended  upon,  as  the  principal  roots  are  apt  to 
get  severed  in  the  operation.  Many  of  the  New  Zealand  Cordylines, 
with  narrow  green  leaves,  can  be  utilized  for  drafty  places;  they  will 
stand  considerable  frost  without  hurt  if  they  have  been  grown  cool. 
Farfugium  grande,  a  broad-leaved  composite  with  yellow  spots,  is 
another  well-known  plant  which  comes  through  zero  weather  all  right. 
Niphobolus  lingua  corymbifera,  a  tough  leaved  crested  Fern,  can  be  got 
up  in  quantity  for  use  by  division  of  the  stems  which  grow  near  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  Lastrea  prolifica,  a  dwarf  dark  green  leaved  species; 
Lastrea  opaca,  Pteris  serrulata,  and  Adiantum  Capillus- Veneris  are  all 
pretty  hardy,  as  well  as  ornamental  species  of  Ferns  good  for  the 
purpose. 


67 


Vines,  Hardy  and  Tender* 

ADENOCALYHNA  COHOSUM— This  is  one  of  the  best  tender  vines 
where  it  can  be  given  enough  head  room.  If  planted  out  and  otherwise 
treated  according  to  its  requirements,  it  will  make  growths  70  feet  in 
length.  It  is  closely  related  to  the  Bignonias.  Flowers  are  bright  yel- 
low, being  borne  in  large  racemes.  It  blooms  in  midwinter.  Propagated 
by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  in  late  Summer. 

AKEBIA  QUINATA— Although  a  climbing  plant,  and  a  very  hand- 
some one,  it  is  frequently  grown  to  answer  the  same  purpose  as  bush 
plants  of  Jasminum  nudiflorum.  For  this  purpose  it  should  be  allowed 
to  ramble  over  low  supports.  For  trellis  work  it  is  well  adapted.  Al- 
though a  common  plant  we  seldom  see  it  in  fruit,  which  is  probably 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  pistillate  flowers  come  into  bloom 
before  the  staminate  ones,  thus  preventing  fertilization;  besides,  they 
flower  at  a  period  when  fertilization  out-of-doors  is  a  somewhat  preca- 
rious operation  with  vines  brought  from  other  countries.  Its  propaga- 
tion is  brought  about  from  cuttings  of  the  current  year's  growth,  choos- 
ing wood  not  too  thick  nor  yet  the  weakest  branches.  Make  the  cut- 
tings with  two  or  more  leaves  on  them,  and  place  together  in  a  cool 
bed;  root  them  in  time  to  be  put  in  a  cool  frame  for  the  Winter. 

AMPELOPSIS  VEITCHII  and  A.  ROYLEI  differ  Jrom  each  other 
only  in  that  the  former  is  the  smaller  of  the  two  in  leaf  and  fruit.  A. 
Roylei  is,  perhaps,  the  more  rapid  grower  of  the  two.  They  are  both 
ideal  vines  for  covering  walls,  not  only  for  ornamental  appearance,  but 
what  is  of  more  importance,  in  warding  off  the  rain  from  the  walls.  It 
may  be  noticed  that  the  foliage  is  imbricated;  that  is,  the  lowest  leaves, 
the  blades  of  which  hang  almost  perpendicularly,  are  covered  for  nearly 
half  of  their  length  from  the  base  by  the  ends  of  the  leaves  above;  thus 
the  water  drips  from  one  to  the  other  instead  of  being  absorbed  by  the 
substance  against  which  the  vine  grows.  Another  good  reason  why  it 
should  be  planted  much  more  freely  is,  that  it  keeps  the  sun  from  the 
walls,  making  quite  an  appreciable  difference  in  the  temperature  of  the 
interior  of  the  dwelling.  The  fruit  may  be  gathered  about  the  begin- 
ning of  November,  the  seeds  washed  clear  of  the  pulp,  and  sown  in  a 
frame  having  a  southern  exposure.  Do  not  sow  thickly  as  the  cotyle- 
dons are  large,  and  damping  off  may  result  before  the  seedhngs  are 
transplanted.  By  the  middle  of  May  the  seedlings  are  ready  for  han- 
dhng.  They  may  either  be  put  in  small  pots,  singly,  or  three  in  a  3-inch 
pot,  plunged  in  ashes  in  a  frame,  the  sash  put  on  and  shaded  for  a  few 
days  until  the  young  plants  have  taken  with  the  soil.  The  Ampelopsis, 
owing  to  the  nature  of  the  roots,  are  best  transplanted  out  of  pots.  A. 
Engelmanni,  A.  diversifolia  and  A.  acouitifolia,  all  good  kinds  in  their 


68  VINES,  HARDY  AXD    TENDER. 

way,  are  treated  similarly  to  the  first-named  kinds  as  regards  propa- 
gating. 

ANTIGNON  LEPTOPUS— In  the  Southern  States  this  is  one  of  the 
most  satisfactory  vines;  even  in  Washington  it  blooms  for  about  two 
months  out  of  doors;  that  is,  when  put  out  as  small  plants.  When  large 
specimens  are  planted  out  the  period  of  blooming  is  much  longer.  The 
flowers  are  bright  pink,  in  very  large  clusters.  It  should  be  propagated 
from  cuttings  taken  in  September;  make  the  cuttings  with  a  single  leaf 
attached,  and  cut  below  a  joint.  The  large  roots  are  tuberous  looking, 
enabling  the  old  plants  to  be  easily  wintered  over  in  a  cool  house. 

ARAUJA  (Schubertia)  GRANDIFLORA— It  is  seldom  that  we  see  this 
noble  vine  grown  well  in  greenhouses,  the  plants  being  usually  sickly 
and  infested  with  mealy  bug.  As  a  Summer  vine  out  of  doors  it  makes 
very  vigorous  growth,  and  after  midsummer  it  bears  a  profusion  of 
bloom.  The  flowers  are  not  unlike  those  of  Stephanotis  floribunda,  but 
are  larger  and  quite  as  sweetly  scented.  Cuttings  make  the  best  flower- 
ing vines.  These  may  be  taken  from  the  ripe  wood  before  the  advent  of 
cool  weather.  Seeds  are  freely  produced  in  large  egg-shaped  fruits;  they 
germinate  freely  shortly  after  being  sown. 

ARISTOLOCHIA  STURTEVANTII  and  A.  ELEGANS  are  easy  to  grow, 
and  are  almost  certain  to  produce  an  abundant  crop  of  tbeir 
exceedingly  curious  flowers.  A.  Sturtevantii  has  soft  growth,  more  so 
than  any  other  species,  and  roots  very  readily  from  cuttings.  A.elegans 
gets  hard  soon  after  developing,  and  is  a  trifle  difficult  to  root;  but  seeds 
are  produced  abundantly,  and  the  seedlings  are  every  bit  as  floriferous 
as  plants  raised  from  cuttings.  Both  of  these  kinds  may  be  planted  out 
in  Summer  to  cover  trellis  work.  An  intermediate  house  will  suit  them 
in  Winter.  A.  elegans  ripens  seeds  in  the  open  at  Washington.  Further 
North  the  seasons  are  too  short,  unless  large  plants  are  taken  to  start 
with. 

A.  sipho  is  a  native  species,  but  far  behind  the  tropical  ones  in  the 
beauty  of  its  flowers.  Sometimes  we  need  a  vine  for  covering  unsightly 
structures  under  the  shade  of  trees;  this  is  the  best  to  be  had,  as  it  luxu- 
riates under  those  conditions.    It  is  most  easily  raised  from  seeds. 

ASPARAGUS  PLUnOSUS  NANUS-Plants  in  beds  requiring  divid- 
ing and  replanting  should  be  attended  to  about  the  middle  of  July, 
so  as  to  make  sufficient  root  growth  to  enable  the  plants  to  send  up 
strong  shoots.  Keep  dry  for  a  short  time  before  dividing.  This  will 
have  a  tendency  to  render  any  young  roots  which  may  be  on  the  plant 
less  succulent,  and  after  planting  they  will  push  out  all  right  again. 
Solid  beds,  with  the  idea  of  having  them  in  good  condition  for  several 
seasons,  should  be  carefully  prepared.  The  ground  soil  should,  if  reten- 
tive, be  thrown  out  to  a  considerable  depth,  drainage,  such  as  broken 
brick  or  stones,  put  in  the  bottom,  and  the  soil  put  back  with  a  little 
manure  or  leaf  soil  mixed  with  it.  This  is  merely  for  the  sub-soil.  Over 
this  prepared  soil  8  inches  or  a  foot  deep  should  be  placed,  boxing  the 
sides  to  a  height  of  6  inches  or  so.    With  the  crowns  raised  above  the 


VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER.  69 

ground  level  of  the  house  there  is  little  danger  of  over-watering.  After 
planting,  for  a  week  or  so  allow  the  atmosphere  to  get  humid,  but  not 
enough  to  force  the  plants  into  undue  activity.  This  Asparagus,  which 
is  probably  entitled  to  specific  rank,  instead  of  being  a  variety  of  A. 
plumosus,  sends  out  some  of  its  stems  from  the  horizontal  root-stock 
traversing  a  considerable  distance  under  the  surface  before  making  their 
appearance  above  ground.  If  the  terminal  part  of  an  underground  stem 
is  injured  before  making  its  appearance  above  ground,  the  dormant 
buds  develop  eventually  into  small  crowns,  sending  out  both  shoots 
and  long  succulent  roots.  The  same  conditions  happen  sometimes  after 
the  developed  shoot  is  severed,  but  in  this  case  infrequently,  as  the  break 
is  more  apt  to  be  above  ground.  The  kind  known  as  A.  plumosus  does 
not  have  this  pecuharity,  the  shoots  growing  straight  from  the  crowns. 
A.  Plumosus  Nanus  as  a  Pot  Plant— In  this  capacity  the  plauts  must  be 
in  a  starved  state,  that  is,  without  strong  shoots;  but  with  numerous 
small  ones  6  inches  to  a  foot  high.  When  once  they  get  into  a  starved 
state  it  takes  quite  a  while  to  get  them  out  of  it,  and  this  is  quickest 
accomplished  by  sphttiug  the  plant  up  into  very  small  pieces.  This 
should  only  be  done  when  it  is  desirable  to  make  plants  for  strings.  The 
root  stocks  are  very  close  together,  crowding  each  other  and  sending 
out  tiny  growths.  When  grown  in  pots  they  seldom  make  tall  cUmbing 
shoots,  and  when  they  do  show  such  a  tendency,  all  that  is  necessary 
to  keep  plants  within  bounds  is  to  nip  off  the  ends  of  the  shoots  a  few 
inches  above  the  pot.  In  getting  up  a  stock  for  pot  plants  plant  them 
out  on  benches,  using  only  3  or  4  inches  of  soil,  planting  out  quite 
closely  together;  keep  pinching,  splitting  up  and  replanting  or  potting 
as  required. 

A  Plumosus  Nanus  for  Short  Sprays— The  cutting  of  short  growths 
of  this  plant  to  supply  green  for  Summer  flowers,  beyond  the  safe 
limit,  is  an  evil  to  be  guarded  against.  The  idea  should  be  kept  in 
mind  all  the  time  that  this  Asparagus,  especially  after  the  strings  are 
cut  and  the  short  bushy  sprays  remain,  needs  so  much  live  material  to 
keep  it  healthy.  If  the  quantity  of  branches  is  out  of  proportion  to  the 
roots  and  kept  for  any  length  of  time  in  that  condition,  the  roots  must 
suffer;  the  branches  subsequently  thrown  up  put  on  that  undesirable 
yellow  color  which  is  worse  than  no  Asparagus  at  all.  Keep  old  plants 
pinched  down  until  the  time  when  it  is  desired  to  start  strings,  so  that 
the  bottom  part  will  break  and  supply  short  material,  which  in  Sum- 
mer pays  best  with  those  growing  for  local  trade.  The  plants  should, 
if  anything,  be  kept  on  the  dry  side,  but  not  dry  enough  to  suffer,  and 
be  given  an  abundance  of  ventilation. 

Raising  from  Seed-Seed  of  Asparagus  plumosus  nanus,  or  that  which 
is  offered  under  the  name  of  A.  p.  nanus,  is  not  always  to  be  depended 
upon,  unless  the  seed  is  procured  from  a  reliable  source  or  home  grown, 
and  known  to  be  true  to  name.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  A.  plumo- 
sus is  the  kind  which  fruits  most  freely,  and  some  not  knowing  the  dif- 
ference between  the  two  sorts  and  others  knowing,  but  also  appreciat- 
ing the  fact  that  A.  p.  nanus  is  the  better  of  the  two,  and  that  seed 
going  under  the  name  of  the  latter  is  sure  to  command  the  best  prices. 


70  VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER. 

Germination  is  very  irregular  with  seed  sown  in  some  soils.  The  best 
medium  I  have  found  is  rough  grained  sand  that  does  not  pack.  Cover 
to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch. 

A.  tenuissimus  is  of  a  lighter  green  than  A.  plumosus  and  A.  p. 
nanus.  If  cuttings  of  the  ripe  branches  are  put  in  bottom  heat  they  will 
root  freely.  In  small  pots  the  plants  are  very  ornamental  and  useful  for 
associating  with  ferns  and  other  plants  in  filling  pans.  This  Asparagus 
used  to  be  trained  on  strings,  but  has  been  superseded  for  this  purpose 
by  A.  p.  nanus. 

BIQNONIA  VENUSTA  is  one  of  the  most  reliable  of  our  warm  green- 
house climbers.  It  should  be  planted  out  in  a  box  built  of  bricks,  such 
box  being  large  enough  to  hold  several  bushels  of  soil.  The  ideal  way 
to  train  is  to  a  single  main  stem  along  the  rafters  of  the  greenhouse. 
From  this  stem  the  growths  on  which  the  flowers  appear  are  allowed 
to  hang  downward  to  their  full  length.  By  judicious  trimming  of  these 
growths,  and  short  resting  periods  before  starting  into  growth,  two 
crops  of  bloom  may  be  had  each  year.  The  flowers  are  reddish  orange 
In  color,  and  are  produced  in  great  i)rofu8ion.  Propagation  is  by  cut- 
tings of  the  ripe  growths  in  March.  The  plant  will  bear  full  sunshine 
all  the  year  round. 

BOUGAINVILLEA  SPECTABILIS  and  B.  LATERITIA  which  is  said 
to  be  a  variety  of  the  former,  are  sometimes  shy  in  blooming;  but  the- 
cause  will  be  found  in  unsuitable  root  conditions.  Planted  in  well 
drained  soil  and  fed  with  liquid  manure  while  making  the  flowering 
wood,  they  are  equally  as  attractive  as  the  better  known  B.  glabra. 
Like  the  Bignonias  they  should  be  trained  to  long  single  stems,  and 
flowered  from  lateral  growths,  pruning  these  severely  before  starting 
into  growth.    Propagated  freely  from  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood. 

BOUSSINQAULTIA  BASELLOIDES  (Madeira  Vine)— In  well  drained 
sunny  situations,  such  as  may  be  found  at  the  south  side  of  a  wall,  this 
plant  frequently  stands  out  all  the  year  round  in  Washington,  D.  C.  It 
is  a  favorite  vine  with  a  great  many  people.  It  is  very  readily  increased 
by  tiking  the  little  tubercles  which  form  on  the  vine  and  sowing  them 
in  rows  in  the  open,  without  supports.  The  tubers,  which  form  under- 
ground, may  also  be  taken,  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  treated  in  the 
same  way.  After  the  vines  are  blackened  by  frost,  dig  up  and  store  with 
Dahlia  roots. 

BRYONIA  LACINIOSA— A  slender  cut-leaved  vine,  with  rather  hand- 
some red  fruit  the  size  of  a  cherry,  beautifully  marked  with  white. 
Raised  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  out-of-doors  end  of  April. 

CHILDSIA  (Hidalgoa)  WERCKLEI— A  native  of  the  mountain  regions 
of  Costa  Rica  and  only  recently  introduced,  so  that  but  little  is  known 
of  its  cultural  requirements.  It  is  a  vine  of  soft  growth  with  compound 
leaves.  The  flowers  are  not  unlike  those  of  a  single  Zinnia;  the  color  is 
intense  scarlet.  Like  other  greenhouse  vines  of  this  family  (Compositse) 
such  as  the  Mutisias,  the  weak  growths  will  not  produce  flowers,  conse- 
quently the  plants  should  be  encouraged  to  make  robust  growth,  espe- 


VINES,  HARDY   AND    TENDER.  71 

cially  during  the  late  Winter  months,  to  flower  in  April  and  May.  When 
planted  out  in  Summer  the  vines  make  very  rapid  headway,  but  the 
flower  display  is  meagre.  For  the  Southern  States  and  California  it 
may  turn  out  to  be  a  very  desirable  vine.  With  us  it  seems  to  thrive 
best  in  a  rather  cool  house. 

CISSUS  DISCOLOR— No  other  vine  approaches  this  species  in  so  far 
as  the  beauty  of  its  foUage  is  concerned.  The  leaves  are  reddish  on  the 
lower  surface;  on  the  upper  surface  the  color  is  bright  velvety  green 
mottled  with  silver;  stem  red.  It  is  usually  grown  in  a  warm  house, 
where  its  growth  is  very  rapid.  Cuttings  of  the  ripened  wood  will  root 
at  almost  any  period  of  the  year.  C.  antarctica  is  a  well-known  win- 
dow plant,  for  which  purpose  it  is  admirably  suited.  It  is  not  particular 
as  to  treatment. 

CLEMATIS  PANICULATA  is  a  hardy  white  flowering  vine,  blooming 
during  August  and  September.  It  has  jumped  quickly  into  popular 
favor,  being  one  of  the  best  hardy  vines  in  cultivation.  Seeds  ripen  in  No- 
vember. Raising  from  seed  is  the  best  and  easiest  method  of  propagation. 
If  sown  when  ripe  the  seed  will  germinate  early  in  Spring  and  make  fair- 
sized  plants  by  the  following  Fall;  but  if  kept  till  Spring,  and  sown 
then,  they  will  not  germinate  till  the  Fall;  even  then  they  have  to  be 
carried  over  in  boxes  in  frames,  and  are  not  much  in  advance  of  the  seed- 
lings which  germinate  the  following  Spring.  From  thitj  it  will  be  seen 
that  a  year's  growth  is  gained  by  Fall  sowing.  Like  most  other  Clema- 
tises it  does  best  in  deep,  heavy  loam  well  enriched  with  manure. 

Grafting  Large=FIowered  Varieties— Clematis  of  the  Jackmanni  and 
Lanuginosa  types,  that  is,  those  having  the  large  blue,  purple,  lavender 
or  white  flowers,  some  of  them,  the  singles,  being  about  8  inches  across 
and  some  double,  are  all  worth  attention,  as  they  give  an  elegant  dis- 
play of  flowers  from  June  all  through  the  Summer;  that  is,  if  properly 
attended  to  in  the  way  of  soil,  mulching  and  watering.  They  all  dislike 
limited  root  space  and  show  it  in  poor-sized  flowers  and  few  of  them. 
The  varieties  may  be  propagated  from  the  beginning  of  January  till  the 
beginning  of  April.  Lift  a  few  roots  of  such  species  as  C.  ligustrifolia,  C. 
paniculata  or  C.  viticella  for  tying  on  pieces  of  any  of  the  sorts  desired  to 
be  increased.  Whip  grafting  will  answer  best.  Tie  the  stock  and  cion 
together  with  raffia  and  place  in  a  box  of  chopped  moss,  standing  the 
box  in  a  propagating  frame  with  a  temperature  of  from  65  to  70 
degrees.  Afterward  they  are  gradually  given  air,  potted  on,  and  hard- 
ened off  as  they  require  it.  Encourage  them  to  make  all  the  growth 
possible  before  cool  weather.  They  should  be  started  early  in  the  season 
in  a  cool  house  not  too  much  heated.  With  one  or  two  flowers  on  they 
are  ready  selhng  plants,  and  all  that  are  sold  will  be  advertisements  for 
next  season's  supply.  Another  method  of  propagation  is  to  take  cut- 
tings of  the  young  wood  about  the  middle  of  June,  and  root  indoors. 
This  is  the  method  mostly  employed  in  this  country;  but  grafted  stock 
make  the  strongest  plants  in  a  given  space  of  time,  owing  to  the 
stronger  root  action. 

The  beautiful  C.  coccinea  is  a  variety  of  our  native  C.  Vorna.    It  is 


72  VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER. 

well  adapted  for  wire  trellis  work.  There  are  other  good  forms,  such 
as  Countess  of  York,  Countess  of  Onslow  and  Duchess  of  Albany. 

CLERODENDRON  THOMSON>E— A  wonderfully  floriferous  vine,  which 
can  be  flowered  successfully  in  6  and  8-inch  pots.  Old  plants  may 
be  allowed  to  get  in  a  dormant  state  in  Autumn  reduced  and  repotted 
in  February,  but  as  much  as  possible  of  the  old  wood  saved,  as  from 
this  they  produce  flowers  on  short  growths.  Each  plant  will  require 
the  support  of  three  or  four  stocks.  Cuttings  may  be  struck  in  Spriog 
and  planted  out  during  the  hot  months  to  make  growth.  The  flower  is 
bright  crimson,  the  calyx  being  large  and  pure  white. 

C.  speciosum— In  growth  this  resembles  the  above.  The  flowers  are 
scarlet,  and  the  calyx  tinged  with  red. 

CLITORIA  TERNATEA— A  half-hardy  annual  vine,  and  one   of  the 

very  best,  making  an  exceedingly  pleasing  display  when  in  rich  soil  and 
given  supports  about  4  feet  high.  The  flowers  are  dark  blue,  in  shape 
and  size  resembling  those  of  the  Sweet  Pea.  The  seed  should  be  started 
indoors  early.  The  seedlings,  no  matter  how  carefully  they  are  tended, 
look  as  if  they  had  a  hard  struggle  for  existence,  but  under  the  influence 
of  full  sunshine  they  will  make  good  plants  by  the  middle  of  May,  when 
they  may  be  planted  out  for  the  Summer.  This  vine  is  sometimes  grown 
as  a  creeper,  but  the  very  attractive  flowers  are  better  seen  when  it  is 
allowed  to  climb.  It  is  an  ideal  plant  for  growing  on  iron  railings. 
There  are  pink,  white,  and  double-flowered  forms. 

COBi^A  SCANDENS— When  grown  indoors  as  a  perennial  this  vine 
will  attain  a  length  of  30  feet.  In  this  country  it  is  principally  grown 
as  an  annual  for  outdoor  use  in  Summer.  As  the  seeds  germinate  quickly 
and  need  pricking  off  shortly,  or  almost  immediately  after  germinating, 
owing  to  their  large  cotyledons,  it  will  save  time  to  put  each  seed  in  a 
2-inch  pot;  fill  the  pots  and  merely  press  the  seed  in  edgewise.  No  cov- 
ering is  necessary  if  the  seed  be  pressed  in  deeply  so  that  only  the  upper 
edge  is  seen  when  the  soil  is  settled  by  watering.  C.  s.  variegata  is  a 
preuty  form  for  the  greenhouse.    Increased  by  cuttings. 

HEDERA  HELIX  (English  Ivy) — The  varieties  of  this  species  are  numer- 
ous; some  have  very  small  leaves  like  H.  Doneraliensis,  others  are  very 
large  leaved,  as,  for  instance,  H.  dentata.  Others  again  are  beautifully 
variegated.  Nearly  all  of  the  Ivies  make  good  pot  plants,  and  some  of 
the  varieties  will  develop  more  leaves  and  stems  to  a  given  size  of  pot 
than  any  other  plant  in  cultivation.  If  the  cuttings  are  taken  from 
outdoor  plants  propagation  should  be  done  in  Autumn,  as  then  the  foil-  ' 
age  is  at  its  best,  and  it  keeps  splendidly  during  the  Winter  months  on 
good-sized  cuttings  rooted  in  frames.  The  variegated  kinds  should  be 
given  the  protection  of  a  frame,  especially  for  stock  purposes;  and  cut- 
tings of  these  kinds  are  rooted  in  March.  They  will  not  root  so  freely 
from  large-sized  cuttings  as  from  more  moderate-sized  ones.  The  less 
sun  the  plants  get  in  Winter  the  hardier  they  will  be,  as  rapid  thawing 
and  freezing  is  injurious  to  the  foliage.  Where  a  supply  of  leaves  is 
wanted  during  the  Winter  the  vines  may  be  planted  on  a  position  slop- 


VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER.  73 

ing  to  the  north.    In  cold   localities  a  light  covering  of  fine  branches 
will  be  beneficial. 

HOYA  CARNOSA  is  the  most  popular  of  the  genus.  It  has  large 
umbels  of  flesh-colored  flowers.  It  is  a  popular  house  plant  with  many. 
There  is  a  beautifully  variegated  form.  For  cuttings  take  good  sized 
pieces,  pot  and  plunge  in  brisk  bottom  heat.  The  young  plants  should, 
if  started  early,  be  given  a  rather  high  temperature.  In  Summer  they 
may  be  plunged  in  the  full  sun  out-of-doors.  An  intermediate  bouse  and  \ 
only  a  moderate  supply  of  water  will  suit  them  in  Winter. 

HUnULUS  JAPONICUS  VARIEGATUS— In  the  warmer  parts  of  the 
country,  at  least,  this  vine  is  a  hardy  annual,  and  one  of  the  most  hand- 
some of  those  having  variegated  leaves.  To  have  an  early  growth,  the 
seeds  should  be  sown  about  the  beginning  of  March  and  the  seedlings 
potted  off  singly  when  large  enough.  Green  leaves  preponderate  on  the 
seedlings,  gradually  becoming  better  colored  as  the  plants  increase  in 
height. 

IPOMCEA— The  Japanese  Morning  Glories  vary  much  in  the  color  of 
the  flowers,  and  while  some  of  them  are  undoubtedly  pretty  there  are 
numerous  shades  which  will  never  become  popular.  A  year  or  two  ago 
out  of  a  package  of  seed  I  had  25  distinct  shades  of  colors.  None  of 
them  approach  in  beauty  the  well-known.  I.Learii  or  the  kind  known  as 
I.  rubro-ccerulea.  The  first  named  is  evidently  a  perennial  without 
tubers,  and  it  is  propagated  from  cuttings;  the  last  named,  from  seed. 
The  tuberous-rooted  kinds  need  only  to  be  treated  like  Cannas  or 
Dahlias  during  the  Winter.  In  Summer  few  climbers  can  equal  them  in 
perpetual  masses  of  bloom.  Ipomcea  paniculata  is  probably  the  best  of 
the  lot.  Other  good  ones  are  I.  scabra,  I.  Hardingii,  I.  Horsfalliae  and 
I.  insignis.  The  two  last  named  are  nearly]  alike,  but  I.  insignis  is  the 
best  Summer  bloomer.  I.  Michauxi,  a  native  of  the  Southern  States, 
makes  an  excellent  outdoor  vine  if  started  early  in  the  greenhouse. 
Under  cultivation  the  large  flowering  variety  of  the  native  I.  pandurata 
makes  a  display  of  bloom  never  seen  in  a  wild  state.  As  to  their  propa- 
gation I.  Horsfalliae  and  I.  insignis  are  either  rooted  from  cuttings  taken 
during  September,  or  grafted  on  seedling  stocks  of  I.  pandurata.  The 
other  tuberous-rooted  kinds  are  best  raised  from  seed,  which  should  be 
preserved  in  the  capsules  until  the  beginning  of  February  and  sown  in 
boxes  of  chopped  sphagnum,  in  which  they  germinate  much  sooner 
than  in  soil.  Keep  in  a  growing  atmosphere,  as  the  seedlings  are  prone 
to  develop  tubers  and  go  to  rest  shortly  after  the  seed  leaves  are  formed. 

Ipomoea  Briggsii  is  one  of  the  best  flowering  vines  of  moderate  growth 
for  the  decoration  of  the  greenhouse  during  the  Winter  months.  Most 
of  the  other  Ipomoeas  bloom  during  the  Summer,  but  this  one  makes  a 
liberal  supply  of  shoots  during  the  Summer  from  which  it  blooms  dur- 
ing the  dull  months  of  the  year.  The  color  of  the  flowers  is  very  deep 
crimson.  The  old  plants  should  be  repotted  in  early  Summer,  using 
light,  rich  soil  and  giving  them  pots  large  enough  to  flower  in.  As  the 
shoots  develop  they  should  be  tied  around  stakes,  and  later  on,  if  wanted 


74  VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER. 

to  cover  pillars  or  rafters,  these  shoots  can  easily  be  untied  and  fastened 
in  the  positions  in  which  they  are  wanted  to  bloom. 

Ipomoea  grandiflora  (The  Moonflower)— Plants  from  Autumnstruck 
cuttings  which  were  shifted  on  after  the  first  potting,  will,  by  the  begin- 
ning of  February,  be  throwing  out  a  quantity  of  shoots  which  are 
intended  to  be  utiUzed  for  cuttings.  When  these  shoots  get  a  foot  or 
more  in  length  nip  the  ends  out,  as  by  doing  so  the  remaining  part  will 
ripen  more  quickly  and  provide  better  material  for  single  eye  cuttings. 
The  plants  from  these  will  be  large  enough  by  planting-out  time.  Large 
flowering  plants  of  the  common  Moonflower  will  often  ripen  considerable 
quantities  of  seed;  these,  when  gathered,  are  very  large  and  rather  soft, 
but  when  kept  for  some  time  they  diminish  in  size  and  get  very  hard,  so 
much  so  that  they  refuse  to  germinate  under  ordinary  conditions.  Put 
them  into  a  flat  of  water  and  stand  the  vessel  on  a  warm  bench  for  a 
day  or  two,  when  the  seeds  will  soften.  This  condition  will  be  indicated 
by  their  swelling  to  two  or  three  times  their  normal  size;  they  should 
then  be  sown  singly  in  small  pots,  keeping  the  soil  only  slightly  moist 
to  prevent  rotting.  The  Moonflower  is  comparatively  seldom  seen.  One 
of  the  probable  reasons  is,  that  at  the  planting-out  season  the  vines  are 
unattractive-looking,  and  as  most  people  want  plants  in  bloom  when 
they  buy,  the  Moonflower  is  overlooked.  Plants  should  bein  4-inch  pots 
before  planting  out,  as  those  out  of  smaller  sized  pots  take  too  long  a 
time  to  develop. 

KADSURA  JAPONICA— A  rather-attractive  looking  vine  allied  to  the 
Magnolias,  with  small  yellowish  white  pendant  flowers.  It  is  propa- 
gated from  the  ripe  wood  in  August. 

LAPAQERIA  ROSEA  and  L.  ALBA— Our  hot  Summers  are  not  favora- 
ble for  the  growth  of  this  plant  under  ordinary  circumstances.  Where  a 
cool  shaded  spot  can  be  devoted  to  it  success  may  follow.  To  flower 
well  the  Lapageria  should  be  planted  out.  Propagation  is  best  effected 
by  layering  the  stems.  This  subject  is  one  of  the  choicest  of  cool  green- 
house climbers. 

L/-THYRUS  LATIFOLIUS  ALBUS  is  among  the  finest  of  Summer 
flowering  herbaceous  plants.  The  flowers  are  pure  white  and  come  in 
very  useful  for  making  up  designs.  It  is  a  comparatively  scarce  plant  and 
the  seeds  offered  by  dealers  are  not  always  to  be  depended  upon,  as  the 
pollen  from  the  pink  flowered  one,  usually  to  be  found  in  gardens,  seems 
to  act  quicker  on  the  stigmas  of  the  white  variety  than  its  own  pollen. 
In  seeding  theyshould  be  kept  apart  so  that  there  will  be  no  danger 
of  their  mixing.  Sow  the  seeds  indoors,  in  boxes  or  flats,  and  keep  in 
growth  all  Winter.  In  a  temperate  house  the  plants  will  only  be  in  3- 
inch  pots  by  planting-out  time  in  the  Spring.  To  support  the  vines  run 
some  stout  branches  in  the  ground  around  the  plants,  bend  and  tie 
together  at  the  top. 

Sweet  Peas  are  sown  at  different  seasons  in  different  localities,  to  be 
in  bloom  at  or  about  the  same  time.  In  the  vicinity  of  Washington  the 
crop  put  in  the  ground  during  the  latter  half  of  September  is  usually  3 
or  4  inches  high   by  the  beginning  of  December.    The  crop  put  in  from 


VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER.  75 

four  to  six  weeks  later  is  usually  in  bloom  about  the  same  time  as  the 
plants  raised  lirom  seeds  sown  during  the  end  of  February  or  beginning 
of  March;  but  the  early  sown  crop  is  in  bloom  from  two  to  three  weeks 
ahead  of  the  others.  Aside  from  early  flowering  nothing  is  gained,  for 
it  cannot  be  said  that  the  plants  are  stronger  or  better  able  to  with- 
stand warm  and  dry  weather.  In  this  vicinity  it  is  impossible  for  the 
plants  to  continue  in  health  during  the  very  warm  weather.  In  more 
Northern  latitudes  the  season  is  much  longer.  To  have  the  plants  in  a 
flowering  state  for  as  long  a  time  as  possible  they  should  be  mulched 
and  watered,  choosing  the  most  airy  stretch  of  ground  for  their 
cultivation.  Plants  for  blooming  indoors  should  be  sown  just  as  soon 
as  the  weather  gets  a  little  cool.  They  may  either  be  sown  in  their  per- 
manent positions,  or  in  pots,  and  planted  out  where  they  are  to  bloom. 
There  is  a  very  large  number  of  varieties  grown  for  the  retail  seed  trade; 
but  six  varieties  at  the  very  most  are  quite  enough  for  the  production  of 
cut  blooms. 

Supports  for  Sweet  Peas— Sweet  Pea  vines  should  never  be  allowed 
to  tumble  to  one  side  from  their  own  weight  through  lack  of  a  suitable 
support.  The  most  natural  supports  are  branches  of  trees,  about  4  or 
5  feet  long,  stuck  in  on  each  side  of  the  row.  The  plants  are  provided 
with  tendrils  which  cling  to  the  small  twigs  of  the  branches.  A  quicker 
method,  the  results  of  which  are  not  quite  so  satisfactory,  is  to  have 
strong  sticks  driven  in  at  intervals  of  a  few  feet  along  the  rows,  with 
twine  or  wire  fastened  to  them.  Wire  netting  of  a  pretty  wide  mesh, 
when  properly  adjusted,  makes  the  best  support.  It  is  the  most  expen- 
sive at  first,  but  in  the  long  run  the  cheapest,  as  it  can  be  taken  care  of 
to  last  for  years.  Perhaps  the  best  method  of  using  the  wire  netting  is 
to  stretch  it  fastened  to  iron  supports  between  two  rows  of  peas,  thinly 
sown,  each  row  about  12  or  18  inches  apart. 

LONICERA  SEMPERVIRENS  (Woodbine)  is  a  most  beautiful  native 
species;  the  flowers  are  dark  red  and  yellow.  There  are  several  varieties; 
one  has  pale  yellow  flowers.  L.  caprifolium, flowers  yellowish,  large.  L. 
Periclymenum  is  the  common  English  Honeysuckle.  It  is  a  very  strong 
growing  vine  and  exceedingly  fragrant.  L.  japonica  produces  flowers 
dull  red  and  white;  very  fragrant;  a  most  profuse  bloomer.  L.  Hal- 
leana,  the  flowers  of  this  species  open  pure  white,  changing  to  a  dull 
yellow;  when  the  plants  get  suflicient  moisture  they  continue  blooming 
all  Summer.  L.  brachypoda  aureo-reticulata  is  a  weak  grower  if  not 
planted  in  good  soil.  It  is  grown  for  its  beautifully  marked  foliage, 
which  is  netted  with  yellow.  L.  Heckrotii,  a  species  with  glaucous  foli- 
age and  very  handsome  reddish  pink  flowers,  blooms  continuously  from 
near  midsummer.  All  the  kinds  root  freely  from  ripe  wood  after  mid- 
summer. 

HANETTIA  CORDIFOLIA— One  of  the  handsomest  of  the  low-growing 
flowering  vines,  growing  about  4  feet  in  a  season,  and  covered  from 
midsummer  on  with  bright  red  tubular  flowers.  It  is  almost  hardy  in 
the  District  of  Columbia,  surviving  ordinary  Winters  with  the  protection 
of  some  litter  thrown  over  the  crowns.  Green  cuttings  are  not  very 
easily  rooted,  nor  does  the  plant  give  an  abundance  of  material  for  this 


76  VINES,   HARDY  AND    TENDER, 

purpose.  But  by  root  cuttings  a  one-year-old  specimen  may  be  made 
the  parent  of  a  liundred  or  more  plants.  To  give  large  and  healtby 
roots  for  this  purpose,  the  plants  should  be  planted  out  early.  By  the 
middle  of  October  the  tops  are  cut  off,  the  roots  lifted  and  put  in  boxes 
of  sand  for  a  few  weeks.  In  preparing  for  the  root  cuttings  take  a  box, 
in  the  bottom  of  which  put  some  rough  screenings,  then  2  inches  of  fine 
soil  made  very  firm;  put  the  pieces  of  roots  (about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  length,)  on  the  surface,  then  cover  with  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
of  coarse  grained  sand  and  put  in  a  warm  house.  When  the  growths 
have  made  two  pairs  of  leaves  put  each  growth  in  a  2-inch  pot,  shifting 
into  3-inch  pots  as  they  require  it. 

M.  bicolor  is  apt  to  run  too  much  to  weedy  growth  during  Summer, 
especially  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country.  Cuttings  of  the  green 
wood  root  quickly.  Those  propagated  early  in  September  make  nice 
flowering  plants  in  4r-iuch  pots  for  Winter  blooming  in  the  cool  conser- 
vatory. 

P-^DERIA  FCETIDA— Usually  grown  as  a  stove  and  greenhouse 
climber,  but  it  is  hardier  than  is  generally  supposed.  We  have  old  plants 
which  have  stood  out  in  the  open  border  for  over  ten  years.  It  is  rather 
an  attractive-looking,  but  not  a  free-blooming  vine.  The  leaves,  or  any 
part  of  the  plant,  when  bruised,  emit  a  most  offensive  odor.  Cuttings 
should  be  put  in  any  time  after  the  growths  are  matured. 

PASSIFLORA  INCARNATA  is  said  to  be  hardy  around  Philadelphia. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  rapid  growing  species;  has  large  whitish  flowers 
and  bears  seeds  abundantly. 

P.  ccerulea  is  apt  to  get  killed  to  the  ground  in  Winter  north  of 
Washington.  P.  Constance  EHiott  is  a  white  flowered  variety,  seem- 
ingly hardy  and  more  floriferous  than  the  type.  P.  Imperatrice  Eugenie, 
P.  Innesii,  P.  Lawsoniana  and  P.  Muuroi  are  good  hybrids.  Stock 
plants  will  Winter  if  planted  in  a  frame,  the  back  of  which  is  formed  by 
the  wall  of  a  warm  house.  These  may  be  propagated  from  cuttings  of 
ripe  growths  any  time  in  late  Summer.  P.  alata  and  P.quadrangularis 
are  stove  climbers  with  large,  handsome  flowers.  P.  aucubaefolia,  a 
variety  of  the  last  named,  has  the  foliage  handsomely  marked  with 
yellowish  blotches. 

PETREA  VOLUBILIS— A  greenhouse  climber  of  very  irregular  growth, 
bearing  in  March  and  April  long  racemes  of  very  showy  purple  flowers. 
The  calyces  are  only  a  few  shades  lighter  in  color  than  the  corollas. 
This  plant  should  be  in  every  greenhouse  collection.  It  is  very  suitable 
for  training  up  rafters.  Cuttings  of  the  dormant  wood  will  root  in  heat; 
the  best  time  to  do  the  work  is  just  before  the  plants  start  into  growth. 

PUERARIA  THUNBERQIANA  has  for  several  years  been  distributed 
throughout  the  country  under  the  name  of  Dolichos  japonicus.  It  is  a 
hardy,  trifoliate-leaved  vine,  having  inconspicuous  purplish  pea-shaped 
flowers,  which  are  seldom  produced  except  on  the  old  wood  of  well- 
established  plants.  The  flowers  amount  to  but  little,  however;  in  fact, 
no  one  would  grow  the  vine  on  account  of  the  flower  display.    It  is  the 


VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER.  77 

rapidity  witli  which  the  vine  will  cover  space  which  has  made  it  a  favor- 
ite with  those.who  have  given  it  a  trial.  It  is,  without  doubt,  the  most 
rapid  growing  hardy  vine  in  cultivation,  and  is  useful  either  for  cover- 
ing the  ground,  for  trellis  work,  and  especially  for  hiding  unsightly 
structures.  Propagation  is  brought  about  by  cuttings.  They  should 
De  put  in  by  the  end  of  August,  to  enable  the  plants  to  make  a  little 
headway  so  as  to  stand  over  Winter  safely.  The  leaves,  being  large 
and  soft,  should  be  laid  flat  on  the  sand  without  being  shortened  back 
in  any  way,  and  allowing  only  about  3  inches  of  stem  with  each  leaf. 
Roots  are  produced  from  the  under  part  of  the  stem  a  short  distance 
from  where  the  leaf  joins.  It  seldom  happens  that  cuttings  root  in  the 
ordinary  way,  tbat  is,  from  the  cut  part  of  the  stem,  so  that  they  are 
ready  for  potting  in  a  few  days  after  being  put  in  the  sand.  Good 
plants  may  be  had  in  a  short  time  by  layering  at  this  period,  keeping 
the  ground  moist  during  the  operation. 

SENECIO  SCANDENS  (Qerman  Ivy)— A  useful  soft  growing  vine  with 
leaves  the  shape  of  the  English  Ivy  (Hedera).  Propagate  a  few  plants 
in  the  Autumn,  and  from  these  a  great  number  of  cuttings  may  be  taken 
off  early  in  Spring.  The  plants  are  principally  used  for  growing  over 
the  sides  of  baskets,  vases,  and  also  for  twining  to  supports. 

SMILAX  (Myrsiphyllum  asparagoides)— Old  beds  of  Smilax  grown 
year  after  year  are  rather  unsatisfactory,  the  growths  being  either  too 
irregular  or  weak.  The  plan  which  insures  a  regular  growth  and  allows 
the  bed  in  which  it  is  grown  to  be  used  for  other  purposes  during  a  por- 
tion of  the  year,  is  to  raise  the  plants  annually  from  seed.  This  should 
be  sown  during  February,  in  a  warm  house.  Put  the  seedlings  in  thumb 
pots  when  large  enough,  shift  to  3-inch  pots  and  plant  out  from  this 
size  after  midsummer.  The  plants  will  be  benefited  by  a  warm  atmos- 
phere from  the  seedling  stage  until  ready  for  cutting. 

SOLANUM  WENDLANDII— In  the  Southern  States  this  should  prove 
a  desirable  garden  vine.  The  flowers  are  arranged  in  cymes  from  6  to 
10  inches  across  (bright  lilac  blue)  on  the  ends  of  the  hanging  branches. 
In  this  latitude  the  seasons  are  too  short  for  small  plants  to  make  much 
of  a  floral  display  in  the  open.  As  a  greenhouse  climber,  however,  it 
ought  to  have  a  place  where  sufiicient  room  can  be  devoted  to  it.  Cut- 
tings should  be  made  from  the  short  lateral  growths,  taken  about  the 
end  of  September. 

STIGHAPHYLLON  CILIATUM  (Butterfly  Vine)— The  flowers  of  this 
plant  are  not  unlike  those  of  some  species  of  Oncidiums,  both  in  form 
and  color.  It  is  one  of  our  best  medium-sized  vines  for  trelhs  work.  For 
pot  culture  it  is  of  little  service,  and  only  thrives  in  the  greenhouse  when 
planted  out.  September  is  the  best  month  for  propagation.  On  out- 
door plants  much  of  the  wood  is  useless  for  this  purpose,  being  thin  and 
soft.  Choose  the  growths  which  were  made  early  in  the  season;  a  heel 
or  a  joint  is  not  necessary.  Root  them  in  bottom  heat,  potting  in  2-inch 
pots,  and  afterward  in  3-inch  pots,  in  which  they  will  pass  the  Winter. 

TECOMA  QRANDIFLORA  differs  from  our  native  T.  radicans  in  having 
very  much  larger  flowers.    It  makes  a  v^ry  showy  vine  when  in  bloom 


78  VINES,  HARDY  AND    TENDER. 

late  in  Summer.  A  good  plan  to  show  off  this  vine  to  advantage  is  to 
grow  it  against  a  stout  support,  made  of  iron  or  wood,  several  feet 
high,  and  when  it  gets  to  the  top  encourage  it  to  become  bushy  by  fre- 
quent pinching.  Propagation  is  sometimes  attempted  from  portions  of 
the  roots  cut  into  small  pieces,  but  unless  certain  that  the  plant  is  on  its 
own  roots  this  is  a  dangerous  practice  and  has  resulted  in  much  disap- 
pointment, as  the  resulting  plants  may  turn  out  to  be  nothing  but  the 
native  T.  radicans,  on  which  T.  grandiflora  is  frequently  grafted.  After 
these  root  cuttings  make  considerable  growth  it  is  quite  a  difficult  mat- 
ter to  tell  whether  they  are  T.  grandiflora  or  the  native  species,  so 
closely  does  the  foliage  of  the  two  species  resemble  each  other.  Those 
on  roots  of  T.  radicans  make  plants  quicker  than  from  root-cuttings,  or 
from  cuttings  of  the  green  or  dormant  wood.  Cuttings  of  the  branches 
are  a  trifle  difficult  to  manage  at  any  time,  but  the  ripened  growths  of 
young  plants  will  give  the  best  results,  as  then  the  wood  is  not  nearly 
BO  thick  and  pithy  as  in  old  specimens. 

THUNBERQIA— This  genus  includes  some  very  desirable  greenhouse 
climbers,  and  at  least  one  species,  with  several  varieties,  useful  for  vases, 
baskets,  and  as  a  vine  of  moderate  growth  for  the  mixed  border.  This 
is  T.  alata.  Seeds  will  germinate  outside,  but  to  produce  early  effects 
they  may  be  sown  indoors  early  in  the  season  and  hardened  off  with 
other  soft  wooded  plants.  The  best  greenhouse  species  are:  T.  laurifo- 
lia,  white  and  blue  flowered;  T.  fragrans,  pure  white,  and  T.  mysoren- 
sis,  purple  and  yellow.  The  perennial  species  may  be  raised  from  seeds, 
but  plants  obtained  in  this  way  are  apt  to  have  a  weedy  growth  and 
turn  out  to  be  shy  in  blooming.  Cuttings  put  in  about  February  will 
furnish  the  finest  flowering  plants. 

VITIS  HETEROPHYLLA  VARIEGATA  is  a  vine  of  straggling  growth, 
with  very  handsome  colored  foliage.  It  may  be  planted  with  English  or 
Boston  Ivies  to  break  the  monotony  of  a  large  expanse  of  green.  The 
variegated  form  comes  true  from  seed;  it  should  be  treated  in  the  same 
manner  as  seeds  of  Ampelopsis.  The  fruit  of  Vitis  heterophylla  is  re- 
markable in  being  green, creamy  white  and  violet  blueat  different  stages 
of  growth. 

WISTARIA  CHINENSIS  flowers  before  the  leaves  are  fully  expanded. 
Old  and  floriferous  plants  have  a  gorgeous  appearance  when  in  full 
bloom.  It  may  be  grown  as  a  standard  trained  to  a  stout  post  sunk 
in  the  ground,  or  as  a  vine  for  arbors,  etc.  There  are  several  varieties 
of  this  species:  W.  c.  flore-pleno  having  double  flowers,  W.  c.  macrobo- 
trys,  a  variety  with  very  long  and  Ught-colored  racemes.  W.  frutescens 
is  a  native  species, flowering  later  than  the  Chinese  plant.  Propagation 
is  effected  in  various  ways.  The  plants,  as  a  rule,  set  seed  freely,  but  the 
seedlings  are  apt  to  turn  out  shy  bloomers.  Seedlings  of  W.  frutes- 
cens may  be  used  as  stocks  on  which  to  graft  W.  chinensis  and  its 
forms.  The  operation  should  be  performed  while  the  plants  are  dor- 
mant in  March  or  April.  The  long  growths  may  also  be  layered  in  mid- 
summer, allowing  them  to  remain  till  well  established. 


79 


Bulbous  Plants* 

ACHIHENES— The  usual  method  of  cultivation  is  to  start  the  tuber- 
cles from  the  end  of  February  till  the  end  of  April,  to  give  a  succession 
of  bloom.  When  the  plants  have  made  2  inches  of  growth  they  are 
placed  one  by  one  in  a  wide  shallow  pan  about  2  inches  apart  each  way, 
each  growth  being  staked  before  plants  show  bloom.  This  method  means 
a  great  amount  of  labor.  I  prefer  starting  the  tubercles  in  their  last 
season's  flowering  pans;  after  making  a  little  headway  divide  into  three 
or  more  equal  parts  and  put  into  their  flowering  pans  without  supports. 
The  specimens  are  not  so  symmetrical  as  those  which  are  staked,  but 
they  give  a  satisfactory  quantity  of  bloom  and  are  most  useful  for  the 
conservatory  during  the  Summer  months. 

For  growing  in  suspended  baskets  in  the  greenhouse  the  older  kinds 
are  well  suited.  Use  wire  baskets,  and  with  started  plants  build  them 
in  from  the  bottom  upwards  so  that  the  sides  will  be  clothed  with  them. 
The  Achimenes  do  not  need  a  very  warm  place  for  storage.  During 
their  resting  season  clip  off  the  stems  to  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the 
pot  instead  of  wrenching  them  out,  as  the  tubercles  are  easily  torn  out 
with  them.  Stand  the  receptacles  on  their  sides  in  a  dry  part  of  a  cold 
house.    No  water  will  be  required  till  Spring. 

AMARYLLIS  (Hippeastrum)— These  beautiful  plants  are  not  as  much 
grown  as  their  merits  deserve;  this  is  partly  because  the  finer  kinds  are 
somewhat  expensive,  especially  when  flowering  bulbs  are  purchased. 
With  a  few  good  sorts  to  start  with  they  may  be  increased,  and  even 
new  varieties  raised  much  more  rapidly  in  America  than  in  Europe,  as 
our  Summers  are  very  favorable  to  their  rapid  growth  and  increase  by 
offsets.  Seeds  are  produced  quite  freely,  and  from  this  method  of  prop- 
agation flowering  plants  are  raised  with  little  trouble.  Most  of  the 
very  numerous  hybrids  now  in  cultivation  are  the  progeny  of  A.  vittata 
and  A.  Ackermanni.  There  are  two  methods  of  culture— growing  in 
pots  all  the  year  round,  and  growing  them  during  Summer  planted  out 
in  the  open,  lifting  and  potting  in  the  Fall.  I  much  prefer  the  first 
method  for  the  production  of  the  largest  sized  blooms.  Few  flowers 
are  more  attractive  than  those  of  the  Amaryllis;  they  are  borne  in 
umbels  on  stout  scapes  well  above  the  foliage.  The  colors  are  princi- 
pally crimson,  blood  red  and  white,  some  of  the  varieties  being  beauti- 
fully striped  and  mottled.  Their  season  of  blooming  is  generally  from 
January  to  May.  About  the  beginning  of  the  year  the  pot-grown  bulbs 
which  are  dormant  should  be  removed  from  the  pots  and  repotted  in 
good,  rich  compost;  at  first  water  only  to  settle  the  soil,  gradually 
Increasing  the  supply.  Some  bulbs  will  show  flowers  early ;  these,  if 
wanted  in  bloom  quickly,  will  be  forced  along  with  a  minimum  tempera- 
ture of  60  degrees.    By  giving  too  high  a  temperature  the  foliage  is 


80  BULBOUS  PLANTS. 

weakened,  and  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  thattlie  plants  make  their  prin- 
cipal growth  for  the  season  after  the  flowers  are  past,  so  that  too  early 
forcing  is  apt  to  endanger  the  health  of  the  bulb.  After  blooming,  the 
pot  plants  should  be  kept  in  an  open  frame  till  the  end  of  September, 
with  some  loose  material,  such  as  stable  litter,  between  the  pots  to  pre- 
vent a  too  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture;  feed  them  frequently  with 
liquid  manure.  A  deeo  frame  heated  so  as  to  exclude  frost  will  be  found 
the  best  place  for  the  pot  plants  during  the  resting  season.  By  the  end 
of  May  bulbs  may  be  planted  out-of-doors.  A  border  sloping  to  the 
south  should  be  chosen.  Immediately  after  planting  give  a  heavy 
mulching  of  manure,  and  to  insure  continuous  growth  keep  them  well 
watered  during  dry  spells,  otherwise,  when  the  time  comes  for  lifting 
the  plants,  some  will  be  at  rest,  others  in  full  vigor  of  growth.  In  the 
latter  case  the  transfer  to  the  flower  pot  cannot  be  effected  without 
detriment  to  the  bulbs;  the  roots  are  large,  preventing  a  suitable  quan- 
tity of  soil  being  given  while  using  a  pot  within  a  reasonable  size. 

Raising  Plants  from  Seeds — The  seed  will  mature  on  pot-grown 
plants  about  the  end  of  July.  Sow  as  soon  as  gathered.  The  seeds  do 
not  require  much  covering,  and  ought  to  be  kept  in  a  warm  atmosphere, 
not  only  while  germinating,  but  until  the  plants  are  at  least  a  year  old, 
during  which  time  they  should  be  kept  in  a  growing  state. 

Propagation  by  Offsets— These  may  be  separated  from  the  pot  plants 
during  the  operation  of  potting,  or  taken  from  the  old  bulbs  when  lift- 
ing in  the  open  border  in  Autumn.  In  the  latter  case  they  may  be  stored 
for  the  Winter  in  boxes  of  sandy  soil,  and  either  potted  off  in  Spring  or 
planted  out  with  the  larger  bulb. 

AMORPHOPHALLUS— Useful  for  sub-tropical  bedding,  owing  to  their 
very  handsome  leaves;  those  of  A.  Rivieri,  the  species  commonly  met 
with  in  cultivation,  being  between  4  and  5  feet  across.  The  petioles 
are  necessarily  stout  and  beautifully  marbled  with  creamy  white.  The 
leaves  are  very  much  divided.  In  early  Spring  the  flowers  are  jjroduced 
before  the  leaves;  they  have  such  an  offensive  odor  that  unless  seeds  are 
wanted  they  should  be  cut  off  before  developing.  Propagation  is  from 
offsels  and  seeds.  The  large  tubers  are  wintered  in  a  manner  similar  to 
those  of  the  fancy-leaved  Caladiums. 

ANEnONE— The  tuberous  rooted  species  known  as  A.  coronaria,  A. 
fulgens,  and  A.  hortensis  are  all  natives  of  Southern  Europe.  When  planted 
permanently  the  soil  should  be  open  and  well  drained,  and  if  it  is  apt  to 
bake  in  Spring  give  a  top-dressing  of  leaf  soil  or  stable  manure  thor- 
oughly rotted.  This  will  keep  the  surface  soft  and  enable  the  growths  to 
break  through  easily.  The  above  species  are  sometimes  grown  in  pots; 
they  may  be  planted  in  September  or  October,  kept  in  a  cold  frame  and 
flowered  in  Spring.  A.  fulgens  is  the  most  useful  for  this  purpose.  The 
many  varieties  are  sold  cheaply  by  dealers  in  bulbs. 

BULBOUS  PLANTS— This  term  is  generally  applied  indiscriminately 
to  plants  having  thickened  subterranean  stems,  such  as  Crocus  and 
Gladiolus,  including  true  bulbs,  such  as  those  of  Lilium,  Hyacinth  and 
Allium,    A  true  bulb  is  simply  a  resting  bud  composed  of  leaf  scales,  as 


BULBOUS  PLANTS.  81 

in  Lilium,  or  partly  formed  by  the  bases  of  the  leaves  of  the  previous 
season's  growth,  as  in  the  Hyacinth  and  Onion.  A  Corm  differs  from  a 
bulb  in  having  the  interior  part  solid;  examples,  Crocus  and  Gladiolus. 
A  tuber  is  a  swollen  underground  stem  provided  with  latent  buds,  as  in 
the  Potato.  The  thickened  tuber-like  roots  of  the  Dahlia  are  simply 
reservoirs  of  nutriment,  and  are  known  as  tubercles.  Terrestrial 
Orchids  supply  numerous  other  examples. 

CALADIUM,  FANCY=LEAVED— There  are  several  species  and  a  great 
many  forms  of  these  gaudy  foliage  plants.  They  are  principally  used  to 
fill  the  benches  of  the  conservatory  during  the  Summer  months,  when 
most  of  the  usual  greenhouse  plants  are  occupying  their  Summer  quar- 
ters out  of  doors.  They  are  also  used  in  bedding,  and  if  the  higher 
colored  forms  are  avoided,  choosing  those  in  which  green  and  red  pre- 
dominate in  the  leaves,  they  will  succeed  well  even  in  the  full  sun.  A 
goodly  quantity  of  bone  meal  worked  into  the  soil  before  planting  will 
make  strong  and  well-colored  leaves. 

Starting  Tubers— The  first  lot  of  tubers  should  be  started  about  the 
middle  of  February  for  conservatory  decoration.  They  should  first  be 
gone  over  carefully,  and  any  that  show  signs  of  rotting  at  the  bottoms 
should  have  the  decayed  part  cut  or  scraped  off  and  dusted  with  pow- 
dered charcoal.  The  under  part  of  a  Caladium  tuber,  after  it  has 
reached  a  certain  size,  is  more  or  less  in  a  state  of  decay,  but  sometimes, 
through  being  kept  too  wet,  too  dry,  or  in  a  too  cold  place,  this  natural 
decay  is  hastened  by  rot,  which,  if  not  checked,  will  kill  the  tuber  in  a 
short  time.  The  white  succulent  roots  start  from  the  top  part  or  neck 
of  the  tuber,  near  the  base  of  the  leaf-bud,  so  this  part  must  be  covered 
and  kept  in  an  evenly  moist  state  to  start  them  into  growth.  1  find  the 
best  conditions  under  which  to  start  growth  to  be  as  follows:  Take  a 
box  3  inches  deep,  put  half  an  inch  of  moss  in  the  bottom;  put  in  the 
bulbs  close  enough  together  so  that  at  least  half  the  space  will  be  occu- 
pied, then  cover  with  moss  to  the  top  of  the  box.  Have  the  moss 
chopped  so  that  the  particles  will  fall  easily  from  the  roots  previous  to 
potting.  This  operation  may  best  be  done  when  the  roots  are  from  one 
to  two  inches  long.  A  good  soil  should  consist  largely  of  leaf  mould.  As 
the  tubers  send  out  their  roots  shortly  after  putting  in  the  moss  they 
should  be  transferred  to  pots  before  the  roots  get  too  long,  else  they 
will  be  injured  in  the  operation.  Pots  should  not  be  used  of  a  size  larger 
than  will  hold  the  tubers  and  roots  comfortably,  without  danger  of 
being  bruised.  The  subsequent  shifts  should  have  a  greater  quantity  of 
loam  with  rooted  cow  manure  added.  For  specimen  plants  do  not  cut 
up  the  tubers,  plant  them  whole.  At  the  end  of  the  season,  as  a  rule 
they  will  have  made  quite  as  many  easily  detached  tubers  as  if  they  had 
been  cut  up  in  the  Spring. 

C.  argyrites— The  small-leaved  kind  called  C.  argyrites  will  be  all  the 
more  useful  if  it  be  not  started  too  early,  as  it  is  most  needed  late  in  the 
year.  It  keeps  well  among  sawdust  in  paper  bags.  The  tubers  are  so 
small  that  several  hundred  can  be  put  in  a  small  bag.  The  tubers  can 
be  increased  at  almostany  time,  even  when  the  plants  are  in  full  growth, 


82  BULBOUS  PLANTS. 

but  preferably  about  the  starting  time,  either  before  or  after.    They  are 
cut  up  into  pieces,  each  one  with  a  bud  or  growth  to  it. 

Preparations  for  Lifting  Tubers— By  the  beginning  of  October,  and 
earlier  in  some  localities,  fancy-leaved  Caladiums  will  soon  begin  to  lose 
their  bright  colors,  owing  to  the  low  temperature.  Before  this  occurs 
go  over  them  and  renew  the  names,  using  fresh  labels.  If  they  are  vs^ith- 
out  names  go  over  them  all  the  same,  jotting  down  the  colors  of  the 
leaves,  and  whether  certain  kinds  should  be  used  again  and  so  forth. 
All  this  is  very  necessary  with  the  Caladium,  as  it  is  a  coming  bedding 
plant.  I  have  not  yet  come  to  the  conclusion  whether  it  is  best  to  plant 
them  in  the  dormant  state  like  Gladioli,  or  to  start  indoors  before 
planting.  I  used  to  favor  the  latter  method,  mainly  because  there  was 
something  to  look  at  as  soon  as  planted.  Some  beds  which  1  saw  lately, 
owing  to  the  splendid  growth  made  from  dormant  tubers  at  planting 
time,  spoke  volumes  in  favor  of  this  method.  It  certainly  saves  the 
time  given  to  the  starting  and  potting  indoors.  But  again,  more  money 
can  be  got  out  of  a  plant,  with  its  beautiful  leaves,  started  in  a  5-inch 
pot  than  can  be  got  for  a  mere  tuber  that  has  no  more  beauty  to  it 
than  a  potato. 

Storing  the  Tubers — Outdoor  plants  as  they  lose  their  leaves  should 
be  dug  up  and  laid  under  the  bench  of  a  house  where  the  sun  won't  get 
at  them.  Give  water  occasionally  to  both  roots  and  foliage  until  the 
latter  gradually  decays.  After  the  leaves  are  cut  off  and  the  tubers  are 
dry,  put  as  many  as  will  go  into  a  fair-sized  pot,  then  run  in  dry  sand 
and  stand  the  pots  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  house,  where  they  will  be 
free  from  drip.  They  should  be  kept  in  a  temperature  not  lower  than 
60  degrees  during  the  Winter.  Plants  in  pots  will  soon  begin  to  look 
"seedy"  unless  they  be  kept  in  a  warm,  close  house.  To  rest  them, 
withhold  water  gradually,  and  when  the  leaves  are  nearly  gone,  remove 
the  pots  to  the  driest  and  warmest  part  of  the  house,  placing  the  pots 
on  their  sides.  If  room  cannot  be  spared  the  plants  may  be  knocked  out 
of  the  pots  and  stored  like  the  outdoor  collection. 

**ropagation — Many  of  the  kinds  form  small  tubers  on  the  sides  of  the 
large  ones;  these  are  easily  detached  and  grown  on.  Again,  many  sorts, 
especially  some  of  the  finer  and  recently  introduced  varieties,  do  not 
make  these  small  tubers,  or  not  in  large  enough  numbers  to  be  of  much 
service;  but  it  will  usually  be  found  that  the  large  tubers  have  one  or 
more  eyes  generally  at  the  sides.  These,  if  taken  off  with  a  piece  of  the 
tuber  attached,  either  before  or  after  starting,  will  make  small  plants 
the  same  season.  In  separating  from  the  parent  tuber  dust  the  cut  sur- 
faces with  powdered  charcoal,  to  prevent  decay.  If  taken  off  before  the 
tubers  are  started,  put  the  pieces  in  warm  sand  to  hasten  the  formation 
of  roots. 

Caladium  odoratum  or  Colocasia  odorata  is  used  much  in  the  same 
manner  for  outdoor  decoration  in  Summer  as  the  well-known  Colocasia 
esculenta.  They  are  known  from  each  other  by  C.  odorata  having  thick 
fleshy  stems  above  ground  and  the  leaves  pointing  upw^ard,  or  at 
least  growing  with  the  leaf  blade  horizontal,  while  C.  esculenta  has 
drooping  leaf  blades,  and  has  no  stem  above  ground.    They  are  both 


BULBOUS  PLANTS.  83 

wintered  in  the  same  way,  that  is,  in  a  dormant  condition,  in  a  warm 
place,  although  C.  odorata  can  easily  be  kept  over  Winter  with  the  roots 
of  the  previous  Summer  preserved  and  the  foliage  green  by  storing  the 
stems  thickly  together  in  boxes,  keeping  on  the  youngest  leaves  when 
lifted  and  storing  plants  in  a  fairly  warm  house,  giving  water  occasion- 
ally. Well  furnished  plants  can  be  had  quicker  from  the  stems  of  this 
than  from  those  of  C.  esculenta.  The  propagation  of  C.  odorata  should 
be  attended  to  during  February.  Cut  up  the  long  stems  into  pieces  with 
a  dormant  eye  to  each  piece,  dust  them  over  with  powdered  charcoal  to 
prevent  decay,  and  lay  them  in  the  sun  to  dry  for  a  day  or  so;  after- 
ward put  in  moss,  not  too  wet,  in  a  warm  frame,  where  they  will  sprout 
much  in  the  same  manner  as  stove  Alocasias.  Pot  as  soon  as  the  roots 
are  sufficient  in  number. 

CONVALLARIA  HAJALIS— Lily  of  the  Valley  pips  used  in  this  country 
for  forcing  purposes  are  obtained  from  abroad.  There  is,  however,  no 
reason  why  they  should  not  be  produced  as  good  in  the  United  States. 
Lily  of  the  Valley  thrives  in  some  parts  very  luxuriantly,  when  grown  in 
the  shade  of  small  trees  with  an  annual  top-dressing  of  decayed  leaves  or 
old  manure.  The  pips  are  received  during  the  early  part  of  November, 
and  the  florist  who  can  raise  bloom  successfully  from  these  before  Christ- 
mas does  not  need  to  be  told  anything  of  the  plant's  culture.  At  that 
time,  however,  good  roots  are  obtainable  from  the  previous  year's  sup- 
ply, kept  in  cold  storage.  Or  home-grown  material  may,  in  time,  be 
used,  as  then  preparation  could  be  made  earlier  with  greater  certainty 
of  success  in  early  blooming.  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  a  decidedly  artificial- 
looking  flower  when  unaccompanied  by  its  foliage.  A  stock  of  small 
pips  should  be  put  in  the  forcing  house  and  given  plenty  time  to  develop 
the  foliage  for  occasions  when  wanted.  The  material  in  which  to  place 
the  pips  may  be  pure  sand,  as  no  new  roots  are  made  during  the  forcing 
period.  When  taken  from  a  temperature  near  the  freezing  point,  increase 
it  very  gradually  until  a  bottom  heat  of  from  80  to  85  degrees  is  given 
for  the  actual  work  of  forcing.  The  pips  may  be  kept  almost  in  the 
dark  at  first,  gradually  giving  light  as  they  develop;  but  keep  them 
shaded  from  the  sun.  In  storing  pips  for  the  Winter  keep  them  in  a 
frame,  with  a  northern  exposure,  so  that  rapid  thawing  and  freezing 
may  be  obviated.  There  are  double  flowered  and  variegated-leaved 
forms;  all  of  them  are  desirable  for  half-shaded  places  in  the  open  border. 

CRINUM— The  tender  species  are  not  much  grown  indoors,  but  there 
are  several  which  are  useful  for  the  hardy  border.  One  which  gives 
much  satisfaction  in  Washington,  and  which  is  perfectly  hardy,  is  named 
C.  longifolium.  The  flowers  are  tinged  with  rose.  There  is  a  white- 
flowered  form.  Nearly  every  flower  will  set  seeds  which  are  very  large 
and  irregular  in  shape.  They  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  as  after 
falling  to  the  ground  a  little  moisture  will  cause  them  to  germinate  in  a 
few  days.  Sow  the  seeds  2  inches  apart  in  a  seed  pan;  keep  in  a  frame, 
and  plant  out  without  potting  off  in  Spring. 

C.  Powellii  is  a  hybrid  between  C.  longifolium  and  C.  Moorei.  It 
thrives  in  Washington  with  slight  protection  in  Winter.  C.  Moorei  is 
also  hardy  when  planted  in  warm  soils  and  slightly  protected.    In  large 


84  B ULBOUS  PLANTS. 

conservatories  C.  giganteum  should  be  grown  if  only  for  the  foliage. 
The  leaves  are  several  feet  in  length,  fully  6  inches  broad  in  adult  speci- 
mens, and  of  a  bright  green  color.  The  flowers  are  pure  white  and 
sweet  smelling,  produced  at  irregular  intervals. 

EUCHARIS  AMAZONICA— The  Amazon  Lilies  have  long  been  popular 
stove  bulbous  plants,  their  large,  pure  whiteflowers  making  them  favor- 
ites wherever  grown.  To  the  florist  who  does  a  general  trade  this  is  a 
paying  plant  when  properly  grown  in  moderately  large  quantities. 
Their  culture  seems  a  trifle  difficult  to  many,  but  this  idea  has  arisen 
through  trying  to  grow  them  under  adverse  conditions.  They  are  plants 
which  delight  in  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere,  shaded  from  strong  sun- 
shine. The  temperature  should  never  fall  below  60  degrees,  and  it 
should  only  be  allowed  to  get  in  the  neighborhood  of  that  figure  during 
cold  weather.  The  plants  cannot  be  properly  grown  after  the  manner 
of  most  bulbous  subjects  which  florists  handle,  such  as  Liliums,  Richar- 
dias.  Gladioli,  Tulips,  etc.;  that  is,  potting  them  up  at  a  certain  time 
to  have  them  in  bloom  at  a  given  date.  Their  culture  has  not  been 
brought  down  to  such  a  fine  point  because  their  nature  does  not  permit 
of  it.  They  can  be  grown  either  with  or  without  a  short  period  of  rest 
in  the  Fall  months.  I  prefer  to  keep  them  growing  all  the  time;  but  to 
do  this  successfully  the  roots  must  have  close  attention.  From  the 
nature  of  thecompost  in  which  they  grow  it  will  become  sodden  if  extra 
precautions  are  not  taken  in  the  way  of  providing  good  drainage,  also 
in  mixing  with  the  soil  a  goodly  quantity  of  broken  charcoal  to  keep 
the  mass  porous.  The  principal  ingredients  should  consist  of  loam  two 
parts,  leaf  mould  one,  a  fourth  to  consist  of  rough  sand  and  well-rotted 
cow  manure.  There  are  three  kinds  in  general  cultivation— E.  grandi- 
flora,  E.  Candida  and  E.  Sanderiana.  The  first  is  the  best  known  of  the 
three,  and  the  most  profitable  to  grow,  as  the  individual  flowers  are 
larger  and  more  of  them  are  produced  on  a  stalk.  They  are  grown  in 
pots,  tubs,  or  on  benches.  1  prefer  the  first  two  methods,  as  the  plants 
can  be  more  easily  handled  than  when  on  benches.  A  good-sized  clump 
can  be  kept  in  a  10  or  12-inch  pot  for  a  good  many  years  by  periodical 
examinations  of  the  drainage,  the  decomposed  soil  removed  from 
around  the  ball  with  the  aid  of  the  hose,  and  a  mixture  of  loam  and 
bone  meal  dusted  over  it.  Put  back  in  the  pot  and  give  a  good  top- 
dressing.  Clumps  treated  in  this  way  have  flowered  with  me  three  and 
four  times  in  a  year  regularly  for  12  years. 

FORCING  BULBS,  such  as  Tulips,  Hyacinths  (Roman)  and  Narcissus, 
are  put  in  shallow  boxes  for  forcing.  The  bulbs  are  inserted  quite  close 
together,  if  of  the  poorer  grades;  but  if  they  are  the  largest  sizes  a  little 
more  room  should  be  allowed  for  the  development  of  the  flowers.  The 
soil  used  is  generally  old  material  from  benches  in  which  Roses  or  Car- 
nations have  been  growing.  In  preparing  bulbs  for  forcing  the  princi- 
pal point  to  be  borne  in  mind  is  that  they  must  make  roots  before  being 
put  in  heat.  A  place  should  be  set  apart  for  the  boxes,  where  they  may 
be  covered  with  about  8  inches  of  sifted  ashes.  On  the  approach  of 
freezing  weather  the  ashes  may  be  kept  in  a  condition  so  that  the  boxes 
may  be  removed  when  wanted,  by  covering  with  rough  stable  litter;  or, 


BULBOUS  PLANTS.  85 

when  grown  in  large  quantities,  a  bulb  house  should  be  provided.  In 
this  structure  light  should  be  excluded  and  the  roof  thick  enough  to 
keep  out  frost.  In  a  well-regulated  house  the  bulbs  remain  in  fine  con- 
dition. They  may  be  kept  almost  dormant  for  several  weeks  and  be 
forced  into  bloom  in  less  time  than  those  from  the  open  ground.  Paper 
White  Narcissus  and  Roman  Hyacinths  may  easily  be  had  in  bloom  in 
November,  and  Due  Van  Thol  Tulips  by  Christmas;  but  to  insure  these 
results  early  rooting  must  be  looked  after. 

ROHAN  HYACINTHS  IN  PANS— Roman  Hyacinths  are  usually  grown 
in  boxes,  and  when  about  to  flower,  or  even  when  in  bloom,  they  are 
taken  out  of  the  box  and  placed  in  shallow  pans  or  pots,  new  soil  added 
and  perhaps  covered  with  fern  moss  before  being  exposed  for  sale.  This 
method  does  not  turn  out  satisfactorily  to  the  buyer,  the  flowers  lasting 
but  for  a  short  period.  By  employing  the  shallow  flats  in  common  use 
for  Ferns,  Roman  Hyacinths  may  be  grown  to  even  greater  perfection  in 
spdaguum  moss  than  where  soil  is  used.  A  little  well-rotted  manure 
among  the  moss  does  good.  Fill  up  to  near  the  brim  with  moss,  place 
the  bulbs  on  this  as  thick  as  they  will  go,  if  the  receptacle  is  small;  give 
more  room,  if  large;  fill  in  intervening  spaces  with  moss,  saturate  the 
moss,  and  to  make  roots,  keep  in  a  dark,  cool  place.  As  soon  as  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  roots  are  made  bulbs  are  forced  into  flower  in  a  few 
days  and  come  in  very  handily  about  Christmas,  when  other  flowering 
plants  are  scarce.  While  making  roots  they  should  occupy  a  cool  frame, 
and  be  covered  with  damp  leaves. 

Outdoor  Bulbs— Hyacinth  and  Tulip  bulbs  flowered  out-of-doors 
may  be  made  to  last  more  than  one  season  if  the  bulbs  are  given  a  little 
care.  By  the  end  of  May,  when  the  bulbs  have  to  be  lifted  to  make  room 
for  Summer  plants,  the  foliage  will  indicate  maturity  by  turning  yellow. 
Aftpr  lifting  the  bulbs  should  not  be  allowed  to  lie  around  with  the  old 
leaves  rotting  over  them,  sometimes  wet,  at  other  times  dry,  according 
to  the  weather.  Spread  them  out  on  boards  in  an  airy  shed,  so  that 
they  may  have  a  chance  to  get  plump  and  dry;  after  which  they  should 
be  cleaned,  stored,  and  when  the  time  arrives  replanted  for  outdoor 
ornamentation.  Low-growing  hardy  Spring  bulbs,  such  as  Galanthus 
(Snowdrop),  Crocus,  |Scilla  praecox,  Tecophilaea  cyaneo-crocea,  Triteleia 
uniflora,  Puschkinia  and  Chionodoxa,  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  they 
are  procured  from  the  dealers.  If  put  in  late  they  bloom  late  and  their 
foliage  does  not  get  time  to  ripen  before  the  advent  of  real  warm 
weather,  and  the  bulb  for  the  following  season  is  next  to  useless.  None 
of  the  latter  is  much  used  by  florists  for  pot  culture.  In  planting  out 
they  should,  if  possible,  be  given  permanent  positions.  Sometimes  Fall 
and  Winter  weather  is  favorable  to  premature  growth  of  the  tops,  and 
because  of  this  they  should  be  protected  from  rapid  thawing  and  freez- 
ing by  a  covering  of  an  inch  or  two  of  half-decayed  leaves  or  manure 
put  on  after  freezing  weather  arrives. 

FREESIAS  which  are  wanted  to  bloom  by  the  end  of  the  year  should 
be  potted  or  boxed  as  soon  as  they  can  be  procured  from  the  dealers. 
Plunge  the  pots  in  ashes,  in  a  frame,  where  strong  sunshine  won't  keep 
the  surface  of  the  soil  too  warm  and  dry.    They  must  not  be  covered 


86  BULBOUS   PLANTS. 

over  as  other  bulbs  are  after  potting,  as  the  leaves  are  thin  and  tender 
and  must  develop  to  a  considerable  extent  before  the  flower  stems  make 
their  appearance. 

GLADIOLUS— Bulbs  of  these  used  to  be  imported;  they  are  now- 
grown  in  great  quantities  in  this  country.  Most  of  the  kinds  grown  are 
of  hybrid  origin,  and  not  a  few  of  them  have  originated  in  America. 
With  florists  the  plants  are  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  flowers.  The  first 
crop  is  usually  grown  indoors  by  planting  the  bulbs  during  January  or 
February.  They  are  usually  planted  among  Carnations,  the  long  nar- 
row leaves  of  the  Gladiolus  giving  but  little  shade.  For  outdoor  crops 
they  may  be  planted  in  batches  from  April  onward.  To  have  the 
bulbs  in  good  condition  for  use  the  following  year  the  ground  should  be 
well  mulched  as  soon  as  the  growths  are  well  above  ground.  Cultivat- 
ing is  then  not  necessary  and  the  weeds  likely  to  smother  the  plants 
may  be  removed  by  hand. 

QLORIOSA  SUPERBA  and  Q.  PLANTII  are  ornamental  flowered  lilia- 
ceous plants,  very  suitable  for  our  hot  Summers.  The  plants  have  a 
vine-like  growth  and  must  be  supported  by  sticks.  They  are  servicea- 
ble for  the  embellishment  of  greenhouses  during  Summer.  In  the  District 
of  Columbia  they  do  well  out-of- doors.  To  raise  bulbs  sow  a  few  seeds 
in  a  6-inch  pot  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  their  seed  pots  for  the  Sum- 
mer, gradually  drying  off  as  the  foliage  turns  yellow.  Store  with  Glox- 
inias during  the  Winter.  Each  plant  may  be  potted  off  singly  the  fol- 
lowing Spring. 

HiCMANTHUS — A  genus  principally  of  South  African  bulbous  plants; 
they  are  all  of  easy  culture.  Those  which  annually  lose  their  foliage 
produce  their  beautiful  flowers  before  the  new  leaves  make  their  appear- 
ance. To  develop  the  foliage  the  plants  may  be  treated  much  in  the 
same  way  as  Amaryllis;  that  is,  planted  out  in  a  sunny  border,  mulched 
with  half-rotted  manure  and  given  water  during  dry  weather.  They 
are  good  plants,  but  only  useful  for  general  collections. 

:!^IS— Some  of  the  tuberous  rooted  species  are  very  early  in  bloom- 
ing, and  only  need  a  short  term  in  the  greenhouse  to  bring  them  into 
flower  after  the  end  of  January.  I.  fllifolia  and  I.  Histrio  are  two  of  the 
best.  The  tubers  should  be  procured  as  early  as  possible,  and  put  in 
shallow  boxes  to  root.  The  surfaces  should  be  covered  while  in  the 
frame  with  a  thin  layer  of  sphagnum  moss.  I.  reticulata,  a  species 
which  blooms  in  the  open  border,  very  often  before  the  snow  is  gone,  is 
valuable  for  forcing  in  5-inch  pots.  The  flowers  are  dwarf  and  not  very 
large;  the  foliage  is  of  a  grassy  nature.  From  four  to  six  tubers  should 
be  put  in  each  pot.  The  flowers  of  this  species,  which  are  deep  purple, 
have  a  fragrance  much  resembling  that  of  the  common  Violet.  There 
is  a  lighter  colored  form  called  I.  r.  Krelagei;  this,  however,  has  no 
fragrance. 

LACHENALIAS— By  the  1st  of  August  Lachenalia  bulbs  should  be 
knocked  out  of  the  pots,  the  sizes  sorted  and  the  largest  put,  say  four 
together,  in  a  5-inch  pot,  and  plunged  for  the  time  being  among  ashes  in 
a  frame.    The  smaller  bulbs  should  be  potted  or  boxed  for  growing  on. 


BULBOUS   PLANTS.  87 

These  bulbs  are  not  common  and  should  be  more  grown,  not  for  cut- 
ting, as  the  flowers  are  not  suitable  for  this  purpose,  but  for  pot  plants. 
The  leaves,  even  by  themselves,  are  very  attractive,  being  broad,  rich 
green,  and  spotted  with  brown.  The  flowers  are  greenish  red  and  yel- 
low, arranged  in  spikes.  Small  bulbs  should  always  be  saved  and 
grown  on,  as  they  increase  in  size  quickly  under  cultivation. 

LILIUM — Many  species  and  varieties  of  Liliums  are  grown  for  the 
ornamentation  of  the  border  in  Summer  and  Autumn.  As  a  rule,  they 
prefer  light  and  well-manured  soil,  and  a  position  partially  shaded  from 
the  sun.  To  lessen  the  necessity  of  frequent  watering  the  plants  should 
be  well  mulched  after  the  growths  are  a  few  inches  high.  The  species 
used  so  much  for  forcing  in  pots  is  known  as  L.  longiflorum,  a  native  of 
China  and  Japan.  There  are  at  least  two  kinds;  the  best  known 
and  quickest  in  blooming  being  L.  Harrisii,  said  to  have  come  originally 
from  Japan,  but  largely  grown  in  Bermuda,  whence  the  bulbs  are 
obtained.  The  bulbs  should  be  potted  as  soon  as  procurable,  and 
plunged  in  a  frame  with  a  bottom  of  sifted  cinders;  the  plunging  mate- 
rial should  be  cocoanut  fiber,  leaf  soil,  or  thoroughly-rotted  hotbed 
material.  This  precaution  works  well  in  maintaining  an  equal  state  of 
moisture  in  the  pots  without  the  necessity  of  frequent  waterings.  To 
prevent  the  sun  drying  the  surface  of  the  soil  enough  covering  of  loose 
stable  litter  should  be  given.  Remove  the  plants  indoors  on  the 
approach  of  severe  weather.  For  earlj*  forcing  the  pots  may  be  placed 
directly  on  the  bench  of  a  cool  greenhouse,  and  precautions  taken  to 
keep  the  soil  in  an  equably  moist  state,  avoiding  either  extreme.  These 
bulbs  should  also  be  covered  with  some  light  material  to  prevent  bak- 
ing. The  pots  used  should  be  small  enough,  so  as  to  provide  for  a  shift 
into  6  and  7-inch  sizes  as  the  plants  require  it.  Much  better  results  are 
thus  obtained,  because  roots  are  formed  on  the  stem  of  the  Lily  above 
the  bulb,  and  often  above  the  soil,  when  they  are  planted  directly  into 
their  flowering  pots,  and  especially  when  they  are  planted  with  the  tops 
of  the  bulbs  level  with  the  surface  of  the  soil.  So  it  will  be  seen  that  a 
shift  given  after  the  plants  have  made  considerable  headway  will  work 
advantageously  in  supplying  new  rooting  material,  not  only  for  the 
roots  already  formed  in  the  soil,  but  for  those  forming  on  the  stem 
above  it.  In  potting  put  one  large  piece  of  broken  pot,  concave  side 
down,  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom,  and  over  this  some  half-decayed 
leaves,  not  moss,  as  the  latter  retains  too  much  moisture  at  the  bottom 
of  the  pot;  ram  the  soil  moderately  firm.  The  soil  should  have  good, 
fibry  loam,  enriched  to  about  one-fifth  of  its  bulk  with  well-rotted  stable 
manure;  this,  with  the  addition  of  some  broken-up  charcoal,  is  as  much 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  soil  open  as  for  feeding.  The  Aphis  is  one 
of  the  worst  enemies  of  the  Lily  when  grown  Indoors,  and  the  condi- 
tions favorable  to  its  increase  should  be  guarded  against— keeping  the 
plants  in  perfect  health  is  the  best  preventive  measure.  Some  of  the 
things  to  be  obviated  are  sudden  changes  in  temperature,  chilly 
drafts,  soil  too  wet  or  too  dry.  Fumigating  or  vaporizing  with 
tobacco  must  frequently  be  resorted  to  whenever  the  Aphis  makes  its 
appearance. 


88  BULBOUS   PLANTS. 

Preparing  Bulbs  for  Potting— If,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  the  bulbs  on 
arrival  are  a  trifle  shrivelled,  do  not  pot  them  immediately,  as  they  are 
apt  to  get  a  set-back  by  so  doing.  The  treatment  they  get  should  be 
directed  to  restore  the  bulb  as  soon  as  possible  to  that  condition  in 
w^hich  it  was  when  taken  from  the  soil.  This  can  be  done  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  much  more  quickly  and  with  better  results  than  when  potted 
immediately  into  soil.  A  cool,  moist  propagating  house  is  an  ideal 
place  for  the  operation.  Place  the  bulbs  as  close  together  as  they  will 
go  in  the  moderately  wet  sand.  They  may  be  either  covered  with  sand 
for  a  day  or  two,  without  wetting,  or  covered  with  papers  during  the 
driest  and  hottest  part  of  the  day,  until  they  get  plump  and  fresh-look- 
ing, taking  care  that  they  be  potted  just  before  the  roots  break  through, 
for  if  potting  be  done  after  the  roots  make  their  appearance  more  harm 
than  good  will  result.  Soil  should  be  used  which  contains  enough  mois- 
ture, so  that  on  first  watering  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  give  a  very 
large  dose.  The  pots  used  should  be  large  enough  to  accommodate  the 
bulb  and  no  more.  A  later  shifting  should  be  given  as  the  plants  require 
it.  A  mass  of  roots  will  be  developed  just  above  the  pot  when  consider- 
able growth  has  been  made;  these  when  covered  with  soil  in  the  second 
potting  will  be  found  to  be  valuable  feeding  roots. 

L.  Speciosum — At  the  season  when  Roses  and  Carnations  are 
scarce,  both  in  and  out  of  the  greenhouse,  a  grand  substitute  may  be 
found  in  the  Japanese  lily,  Lilium  speciosum.  It  is  one  of  the  best,  if 
not  the  very  best,  so  far  as  graceful  structure  of  flower  is  concerned, 
being  far  ahead  of  the  popular  variety  of  L..  longiflorum  in  this  respect. 
L.  speciosum  was  introduced  from  Japan  over  GO  years  ago;  it  was 
then  erroneously  called  Lilium  lancifolium,  a  name  which  still  sticks  to 
it  in  many  places.  It  may  be  stated  for  guidance  in  the  cultivation  of 
this  Lily  that  it  is  perfectly  hardy  here  in  well-drained  light  soil,  that 
is,  on  raised  rock-work;  but  unless  the  bulbs  are  lifted  at  intervals  of 
two  years  and  immediately  replanted  in  freshly  worked  soil,  with 
manure  added,  they  get  smaller  and  smaller,  ultimately  dying  from 
starvation.  For  pot  cultivation  and  to  bloom  early  in  Summer  Lilium 
speciosum  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  to  manage,  but  less  trouble  will 
be  experienced  by  planting  out  in  raised  beds,  giving  the  necessary 
protection  from  severe  and  late  frosts  in  localities  where  those  con- 
ditions exist.  The  species  is  extremely  variable  in  form  and  color  of 
flower,  color  of  stems,  fohage,  buds,  and  even  in  the  anthers.  Among 
the  whites,  L.  s.  Kraetzeri,  imported  direct  from  Japan,  is  one  of  the 
finest.  This  variety  has  greenish  stripes  down  each  of  the  six  divisions 
of  the  flower;  the  anthers  are  brown.  L.  s.  album-novum  has  larger 
flowers,  with  bright  yellow  anthers.  L.  s.  album,  grown  in  Europe, 
gradually  becomes  tinged  with  pink.  L.  s.  punctatum  has  white  flowers 
dotted  with  pink.  The  principal  pink  or  carmine  forms  are  L.  roseum 
rubrum;  others  are  Lihums  Schrymakersi,  cruentum,  purpureum,  pur- 
puratum,  magniflcum  and  superbum.  The  natural  period  for  blooming 
outside,  according  to  locality,  is  from  the  end  of  July  till  September.  A 
variety  called  L.  Melpomene,  which  sometimes  gets  to  be  6  feet  high, 
was  raised  by  the  late  Mr.  Hovey,  of  Boston,  many  years  ago.    It  was 


BULBOUS   PLANTS.  89 

said  to  be  a  hybrid  between  Liliums  speeiosum  and  auratum;  it  has 
larger  flowers  than  any  of  the  varieties  of  L.  speeiosum,  but,  with  us,  it 
is  very  unreliable  when  left  outside,  going  off  suddenly  without  any 
apparent  cause,  while  both  Liliums  speeiosum  and  auratum  alongside 
do  well.  L.  longiflorum  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  with  L.  candidum 
should  be  grown  for  Summer  flowers.  L.  auratum  is  often  unsatisfac- 
tory, failing  to  start  well  from  imported  bulbs.  It  is  of  little  service  as 
a  cut  flower,  but  probably  the  finest  species  of  the  genus  for  the  open 
border.  As  many  as  50  large  flowers  are  frequently  produced  in  a 
season  from  a  single  bulb. 

NARCISSUS  POETICUS  is  the  most  useful  of  the  late  blooming  species 
for  outdoor  cutting.  It  should  be  given  a  permanent  place  in  the  open 
ground,  as  it  usually  does  not  deteriorate,  but  in  suitable  soil  rather  the 
reverse.  The  bulbs  are  procurable  in  large  quantites  at  low  rates,  and 
it  ought  to  be  taken  into  consideration  that  they  flower  yearly  in  the 
open  field  and  increase  to  such  an  extent  under  fairly  good  treatment, 
that  the  bulbs  which  fill  a  given  space  this  year  will  in  four  years  fill  six 
times  the  space.  N.  p,  recurvus  is  the  best  of  the  single  forms,  but  other 
kinds  are  sometimes  sold  for  it.  The  double  form  is  a  large  and  hand- 
some flower,  of  which  we  see  too  little.  They  should  be  lifted  every 
second  or  third  year,  as  soon  as  the  bulbs  are  ripe  (where  cultivated  on 
a  large  scale  they  are  lifted  every  season,)  the  sizes  sorted  and  immedi- 
ately replanted,  the  ground  having  been  well  enriched  with  manure. 
Their  usual  period  of  flowering  here  is  from  May  10th  to  the  20th.  In 
well-sheltered,  sunny  positions  they  flower  much  earlier.  In  order  to 
utihze  space,  if  the  rows  are  wide  enough,  stock  plants  of  various  things 
can  be  planted  between  them. 

OXALIS— The  main  batch  of  Oxalis  for  Winter  flowering  should  be 
potted  up  by  the  middle  of  October.  Put  a  single  bulb  in  each  pot, 
using  3-inch  pots  to  start  with,  and  shifting  on  the  plants  as  they  need 
it  until  they  are  in  5  or  G-inch  pots,  in  which  they  bloom.  When  several 
bulbs  are  potted  together  in  a  large  pot,  at  first  they  are  certain  to  pro- 
duce foliage  in  abundance  and  but  few  flowers.  By  the  middle  of  June 
the  bulbs  will  be  dried  off;  this  is  accomplished  by  withholding  water  and 
turning  the  pots  on  their  sides.  Be  careful  to  place  them  so  that  the  soil 
is  exposed  to  view,  as  mice  are  exceedingly  fond  of  the  bulbs.  All  of  the 
kinds  grown  for  their  flowers  in  Winter  are  very  prolific  in  the  produc- 
tion of  new  bulbs,  that  is,  if  sufl3cient  root  room  has  been  afforded  for 
their  perfect  development  during  the  growing  period.  Home-grown 
bulbs  are  very  superior  to  those  imported.  Some  of  the  best  kinds  are 
O.cernua,  yellow;  O.  Bowiei,  O.  gigantea  and  O.  hirta-rosacea,  pink; 
O.  versicolor  and  O.  lactiflora,  white.  O.  rubricaulis  is  desirable  not  so 
much  for  the  flowers  as  for  the  highly  colored  red  stems.  O.  Bowiei  and 
O.  versicolor  are  well  suited  for  baskets,  for  hanging  in  conservatories. 
The  last  named  requires  very  little  heat. 

POLIANTHES  TUBEROSA  (Tuberose)— These  are  grown  largely  for 
supplying  white  flowers  during  Summer  and  Fall  months.    They  may 


90  BULBOUS   PLANTS. 

be  put  in  the  ground  after  danger  from  frost  is  past,  and  at  later  inter- 
vals to  give  a  succession  of  flowers.  The  finest  bulbs  are  supplied  so 
cheaply  by  American  growers,  that  it  does  not  pay  to  propagate  in 
small  quantities. 

RICHARDIA  >ETHIOPICA  (Calla)  which  are  out  of  service  should 
have  the  water  gradually  withheld  from  them,  and  as  the  foliage  dies 
down  turn  the  pots  on  their  sides  and  leave  them  in  this  position  until 
the  time  arrives  for  starting  into  growth  in  Autumn.  The  pots  should 
not  be  put  in  a  place  where  the  sun  will  have  full  play  on  them.  Jadoo 
potted  tubers  may  as  well  have  another  season  without  disturbance, 
as  this  material  does  not  seem  to  decompose  rapidly;  liquid  manure 
would  then,  of  course,  have  to  be  applied  regularly.  For  increasing  the 
stock  of  the  yellow  varieties  they  should  be  grown  all  Summer;  plant 
them  outside  in  rich,  well-drained  situations  where  they  can  be  watered 
abundantly  when  occasion  requires  it.  In  Winter  they  need  a  mini- 
mum temperature  of  60  degrees.  By  the  middle  of  September  the 
largest  sizes  of  R.  ajthiopica  should  be  in  6  and  7-inch  pots  and  placed 
in  an  open  frame.  Have  the  sash  handy  so  that  they  may  be  protec- 
ted during  wet  weather.  With  a  good  watering  at  first  they  won't 
need  much  moisture  till  good  roots  are  formed.  At  least  one-third  of 
rotted  cow  manure  should  be  in  the  soil. 

TRILLIUM— About  a  dozen  species  of  these  beautiful  and  interesting 
native  plants  are  in  cultivation.  T.  grandiflorum  is  the  one  most  com- 
monly grown,  owing  to  its  very  large  white  flowers.  Its  culture  is  of 
the  simplest  description,  requiring  a  half-shaded  position  with  abun- 
dance of  vegetable  humus  in  the  soil.  It  is  sometimes  grown  in  pots  for 
early  forcing,  for  which  purpose  it  is  well  adapted.  The  rhizomes  should 
be  potted  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  at  rest,  late  in  Summer,  and  plunged 
in  a  cool  frame  until  wanted.  With  very  little  heat  they  will  flower 
several  weeks  in  advance  of  their  usual  time. 

VALLOTA  PURPUREA— A  very  useful  plant,  either  for  the  greenhouse 
or  the  window  garden,  but  not  of  much  service  to  the  florist,  as  it 
flowers  at  a  period  when  the  demand  for  cut  flowers  is  not  very  great. 
As  the  bulbs  will  last  in  the  same  pots  for  several  years,  the  drainage 
should  be  carefully  arranged,  and  the  soil  mixed  with  crushed  bone. 
During  growth  occasional  waterings  with  manure  should  be  given. 
The  flowers  are  reddish  scarlet,  several  in  an  umbel;  in  appearance  some- 
what like  those  of  an  Amaryllis.  The  foliage  is  evergreen,  but  during 
the  resting  season  the  supply  of  water  should  be  curtailed. 

Propagation — The  Vallota  has  a  very  curious  method  of  making 
young  plants  which  I  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  described  any- 
where. These  young  plants  are  produced  to  such  an  extent  that  the 
process  tends  to  curtail  the  flowering  propensities  of  the  larger  bulbs  if 
attention  be  not  given  in  the  matter  of  removing  them.  In  course  of 
time  they  form  two  colonies,  one  on  each  side  of  the  parent  bulb.  The 
bases  of  the  leaves  forming  the  bulb  ha\e  each  a  small  bud-like  growth 


BULBOUS  PLANTS.  91 

a  considerable  distance  from  the  base  or  disc,  but  attached  to  the  disc 
by  a  root-like  formation  which  continues  active,  after  the  swollen  base 
of  the  leaf  is  dead,  in  supplying  nutriment  to  the  young  bulb  until  it 
sends  out  roots.  When  this  little  root-like  process  is  of  no  further  use  it 
gradually  shrivels  up.  Afterward  the  young  bulbs  grow  apace  and  rob 
the  soil  of  the  nourishment  intended  for  the  parent  bulb.  This  provision 
evidently  shows  that  the  Vallota  naturally  grows  deep  in  the  soil  and 
is  intended  to  raise  the  bulblets  near  to  the  surface  before  taking  root. 
These  bulblets,  unless  intended  for  increasing  the  stock,  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  they  make  their  appearance  above  the  soil. 


92 


Ornamental  Grasses* 


ANDROPOaON  SCH/ENANTHUS  (Lemon  Grass)— The  leaves  of  this 
plant  when  bruised  emit  a  fragrance  much  resembling  that  of  the  Lemon 
Verbena.  It  is  a  tender  evergreen.  When  planted  out  in  Summer  the 
growth  is  very  rapid  even  in  dry  soils.  As  a  pot  plant  it  has  a  very 
ornamental  appearance,  and  stands  well  in  a  dwelling  house.  It  is  prop- 
agated by  division  at  any  time  of  the  year.  The  pieces  should  be 
placed  in  wet  sand  for  a  few  days  previous  to  potting  to  encourage  new 
roots  to  form. 

ARUNDO  DONAX— The  tallest  of  our  herbaceous  grasses,  growing 
under  favorable  conditions  to  a  height  of  25  feet;  flowers  late  in  Sum- 
mer. A  very  ornamental  plant  for  the  centers  of  large  beds,  or  for  iso- 
lated groups  on  wide  borders  or  lawns.  As  it  increases  very  rapidly  at 
the  root  the  rhizome-like  growth  may  be  divided  just  as  the  new  shoots 
make  their  appearance  above  the  soil;  these,  when  heeled  in,  may  be 
transplanted  at  any  time. 

A.  D.  variegata  grows  only  about  half  the  height  of  the  green  one— 
an  exceedingly  desirable  plant  for  the  hardy  border.  To  propagate, 
take  the  ripe  stems  and  lay  them  in  damp  moss  or  sand;  from  each 
joint  one  or  more  buds  will  start  into  growth  and  ultimately  take  root. 
These  young  plants,  when  of  sufficient  size,  may  be  detached  from  the 
parent  stem  and  put  in  small  pots. 

BAMBUSA  (Bamboo)— There  are  one  or  two  species  grown  in  green- 
houses and  several  hardy  ones.  B.  arundinacea  will  grow  60  feet  high 
in  a  smgle  season.  It  is  useful  for  roomy  structures  where  quick  effects 
are  wanted.  B.  aurea  is  perfectly  hardy  in  Washington,  D.  C.  The 
growths  will  reach  a  height  of  15  feet.  B.  striata  is  grown  Indoors  in 
Winter.  The  plants  will  thrive  a  long  time  with  limited  root  accommo- 
dation. B.  virminalis,  B.  chrysantha,  B.  punctata,  B.  mitis  and  B. 
Marliacea  sometimes  stand  the  Winter  in  the  open  border  without  losing 
their  foliage.  B.  Fortune!  variegata  should  never  be  placed  where  it 
will  crowd  other  plants,  as  it  spreads  rapidly  and  is  difficult  to  eradi- 
cate. Propagation  is  best  effected  by  division.  The  pieces  should  be 
started  into  growth  among  sand,  in  a  close  cool  frame,  potting  off  the 
rarer  kinds  when  a  few  new  roots  have  been  made. 

CYPERUS  ALTERNIFOLIUS  is  useful  either  as  a  house  plant  or  for  plant- 
ing out  in  Summer.  Its  propagation  is  much  quicker  accomplished  by 
leaves  than  from  seed  in  the  following  manner:  Get  a  piece  of  zinc,  or  as 
many  pieces  as  may  be  wanted,  of  a  size  say,  2  feet  square;  turn  up  the 
sides  3  inches;  beat  the  sides  forming  the  corners  together  and  bend  them 


ORNAMENTAL   GRASSES.  93 

to  one  side  so  as  to  hold  water,  fill  with  sand  and  saturate  with  water. 
Get  some  mature  growths,  cut  off  the  stalk  and  shorten  the  leaves;  in- 
sert in  the  sand  and  keep  thoroughly  wet.  In  a  warm  house  they  will 
send  up  numerous  rooted  growths  in  a  short  time,  which,  as  they  require 
if,  should  be  potted  and  grown  on.  Young  plants  such  as  these  can  very 
easily  be  divided.  I  haven't  had  much  success  with  the  variegated  form 
propagated  in  this  way ;  it  is  apt  to  come  green.   Division  suits  it  better. 

DACTYLIS  QOLflERATA  VARIEQATA— The  species  grows  in  waste 
places  in  the  Eastern  States.  The  green-leaved  plants  are  weedy  in 
growth,  very  floriferous  and  are  never  grown  in  gardens.  The  varie- 
gated form  seldom  produces  many  flowers,  and  these,  when  they  appear, 
should  be  removed.  It  is  one  of  our  best  low-growing  variegated 
grasses,  much  used  in  some  places  for  bedding.  It  is  readily  propagated 
by  division. 

ELVnUS    QLAUCUS— A  very  ornamental  species  with    bluish  green 

leaves  finely  striated  on  the  upper  surfaces.    It  reaches  a  height  of 

.about  2  feet.    The  habit  is  inclined  to  be  spreading.    In  early  Spring 

the  growth  is  about  a  foot  high  when  most  other  ornamental  grasses 

are  just  showing.    Propagated  by  division. 

ERIANTHUS  RAVENN/E— This  species  comes  next  in  size  to  the 
Arundo,  frequently  growing  10  feet  high.  The  growths  are  stout,  end- 
ing with  very  ornamental  flowers,  which,  if  taken  in  a  young  state  and 
dried  in  the  sun,  are  quite  as  showy  as  those  of  the  Pampas  plumes. 
The  plants  produce  seeds  freely;  they  should  be  sown  in  Autumn  and 
wintered  in  a  cool  house.  The  plant  is  thoroughly  hardy  in  the  District 
of  Columbia. 

EULALIA  (Miscanthus)— The  variegated  forms  of  E.  japonica  are 
more  frequently  used  than  any  other  ornamental  grasses.  As  isolated 
specimens  they  grow  into  very  symmetrical  subjects,  the  outer  leaves  of 
the  clump  drooping  and  almost  reaching  the  ground.  There  are  three 
kinds  usually  cultivated — Eulalia  japonica  foliis-striatus,  E.  j.  zebrina 
and  E.  univittata.  The  last  named  is  much  more  dwarf  than  the  others, 
the  leaves  narrow  with  a  whitish  stripe  down  the  middle.  They  are 
natives  of  Japan.  Propagation  is  effected  by  division  of  the  crowns, 
and  should  be  done  just  as  the  plants  are  starting  into  growth.  Old 
clumps  will  have  to  be  broken  up  with  the  aid  of  a  mattock  or  axe. 
They  may  be  divided  into  pieces  small  enough  to  go  in  a  3-inch  pot  and 
plunged  in  a  frame  among  ashes,  or  they  may  be  heeled  among  sand  in 
a  frame  for  a  couple  of  weeks  or  more  before  potting.  They  should  in 
any  case  be  kept  close  for  a  few  days  after  being  divided,  in  order  to 
start  fresh  roots. 

FESTUCA  GLAUCA  grows  only  a  few  inches  high,  the  foliage  is  of  a 
bluish  green  color.  It  may  be  divided  and  replanted  during  March  or 
April. 

QVNERIUn  ARGENTEUM  (The  Pampas  Grass)— During  the  exception- 
ally severe  Winter  of  1898-1899  we  did  not  lose  a  single  plant  of  any 
of  the  forms  of  the  Pampas  Grasses.    None  of  the  plants  was  protected 


94  ORNAMENTAL    GRASSES. 

by  the  usual  method  of  boxes  or  barrels  with  the  ends  knocked  out, 
placed  over  the  plants  and  filled  with  leaves  or  straw.  Propagation 
from  seed  is  the  usual  method,  but  division  of  the  old  plants  will  be 
found  more  satisfactory.  Dig  up  a  large  clump  in  the  Fall;  chop  it  up 
into  pieces  small  enough  to  go  easily  into  6-inch  pots.  Use  stiff  loam 
and  pot  firmly,  standing  the  plants  under  benches;  water  occasionally 
until  the  beginning  of  February,  when  the  plants  should  be  removed 
from  the  pots  and  divided  up  into  the  smallest  pieces,  saving  the  new 
roots  as  much  as  possible.  Shorten  the  leaves  back  to  half  their  length 
and  put  in  the  sand  bed  for  a  couple  of  weeks  to  start  fresh  roots;  then 
place  in  3  or  4-inch  pots,  and  they  will  form  well-furnished  plants  in  a 
short  time. 

PANICUM  VARIEQATUM— A  useful  little  warm  house  plant,  having 
leaves  striped  with  white  and  pink.  It  will  grow  in  shade  or  sun,  and 
is  used  chiefly  for  hanging  over  the  sides  of  baskets,  vases  and  boxes. 
Propagated  from  cuttings  in  March.  The  correct  name  is  Oplism-enus 
Burmanni  variegatus. 

PAPYRUS  ANTIQUORUM— The  Papyrus,  after  being  lifted  from  its 
Summer  quarters,  where  the  growths  made  are  usually  very  strong,  fre- 
quently gets  into  a  half  sickly  state  during  the  Winter  months,  from 
which  it  takes  it  some  time  to  recuperate  after  being  replanted  outside. 
In  Winter  the  growths  are  grassy  and  spindling.  By  the  way,  I  doubt 
very  much  if  the  true  Cyperus  Papyrus  is  in  common  cultivation,  the 
one  generally  grown  under  that  name  being  an  entirely  different  species. 
However,  that  is  a  small  matter,  as  the  one  commonly  grown  under 
the  name  of  Cyperus  Papyrus  answers  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  used, 
quite  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  the  true  species.  If  the  old  plants  are 
taken  in  hand  some  time  in  January,  and  split  up  into  the  smallest 
pieces  and  put  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  warm  house,  they  will  in  a  few  days 
push  out  fine,  healthy  roots,  and  when  potted  in  a  mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  moss,  sand  and  manure,  will  grow  very  vigorously  and  will  be 
in  splendid  trim  for  the  planting  out  season.  If  it  is  desired  to  increase 
the  stock  the  young  plants,  after  being  in  the  pots  for  a  few  weeks,  can 
be  re-divided  and  the  operation  of  rooting  gone  through  as  at  first.  In 
the  absence  of  a  propagating  bench  a  box  of  sand  placed  on  the  hot 
water  pipes  answers  the  same  purpose. 

PENNISETUM  LONGISTYLUM— Perhaps  the  finest  of  our  dwarf 
grasses,  which  are  grown  principally  on  account  of  the  very  ornamental 
character  of  the  flowers.  It  is  usually  treated  as  a  half-hardy  annual, 
owing  to  its  liability  to  get  Winter-killed.  It  sometimes  survives  the 
Winters  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  but  should  always  be  treated  as  a 
tender  subject.  Plants  raised  annually  from  seeds  are  satisfactory,  if 
sown  early;  but  old  plants,  divided  up  will  give  larger  pieces,  start  into 
bloom  earlier  and  do  not  take  so  much  attention  as  seedlings.  The  old 
plants  are  wintered  anywhere  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  About  the 
beginning  of  February  cut  off  the  old  leaves  to  within  6  inches  of  the 
crowns;  divide  into  small  pieces,  trim  the  roots  so  that  they  will  ulti- 
mately go  into  3  or  4-inch  pots;  place  the  pieces  thickly  together  in 


ORNAMENTAL    GRASSES.  95 

boxes  of  sandy  soil  and  keep  in  greenhouse.  Pot  as  soon  as  tlie  new 
roots  have  started.  They  may  be  removed  to  a  cool  frame  long  before 
the  soft  bedding  material  demands  all  the  indoor  space.  There  are 
several  other  annual  and  perennial  species  grown;  none,  however,  is  as 
desirable  as  the  above. 

SACCHARUM  OFFICINARUM  VIOLACEUM— A  variety  of  the  sugar 
cane  with  violet  or  plum  colored  leaves  and  stems;  useful  for  sub-tropi- 
cal bedding.  It  is  easily  increased  by  cutting  the  stems  into  pieces,  with 
two  joints  to  each  piece,  and  placing  them  on  the  sand  bed  of  a  warm 
house  at  almost  any  time.  Numerous  shoots  are  produced  at  the  joints, 
and  they  make  plants  rapidly. 

STIPA  PENNATA  (Feather  Grass)— An  old  favorite  in  gardens.  The 
leaves  are  long  and  narrow.  The  flowers  are  arranged  in  long,  arching 
spikes,  presenting  a  very  delicate  appearance.  Propagated  in  Spring  by 
division,  and  from  seed.  There  are  over  a  hundred  species,  only  a  few 
of  which  are  in  cultivation. 

UNIOLA  LATIFOLIA  is  a  native  species  which  makes  an  attractive 
border  plant,  growing  usually  from  2  to  3  feet  high.  The  leaves  are 
broad  and  arching,  about  an  inch  wide;  the  spikelets  are  drooping  on 
long  pedicels.  This  grass  starts  early  into  growth  and  is  one  of  the 
easiest  to  propagate  by  division. 


Water  Plants. 


LIMNOCHARIS  HUMBOLDTII— Useful  for  planting  where  the  water  Is 
only  a  few  inches  deep.  The  flowers  are  yellow,  about  2  inches  in  diame- 
ter. The  plants  must  be  wintered  indoors.  When  grown  in  shallow 
water  during  Summer  it  is  not  necessary  to  keep  them  under  water  dur- 
ing Winter.  All  that  is  required  is  to  prepare  a  box  of  moist  loam;  put 
the  plants  in  this,  in  rows,  close  together;  give  a  good  watering  and 
stand  the  box  under  the  bench  of  a  warm  house  where  it  will  get  a  fair 
amount  of  light.  They  will  make  a  new  set  of  short-stalked  leaves  ere 
long,  and  remain  in  good  condition  for  planting  out  in  the  Spring. 

NELUriBIUn— There  are  at  least  two  species,  N.  speciosum  and  N. 
luteum,  besides  several  forms  of  the  first  named,  differing  from  it  princi- 
pally in  the  colors  of  the  flowers.  N.  speciosum  and  its  forms  are  the  best 
for  growing  in  ponds  and  fountain  basins.  During  Summer  they  make 
very  long  underground  stems,  and,  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather, 
form  thick  resting  tubers  at  the  ends  of  which  are  one  or  more  dormant 
buds.  Nelumbiums  need  an  abundance  of  rich  soil  for  their  perfect 
development.  When  grown  in  a  cramped  space  comparatively  few 
flowers  are  produced.  The  flowers  are  from  8  inches  to  a  foot  across — 
pink,  white,  and  yellow,  in  color.  They  are  borne  on  long,  rigid  stems 
well  out  of  the  water.  The  leaves  have  an  exceedingly  ornamental 
appearance,  being  peltate  and  standing  a  considerable  distance  out  of 
the  water.  The  first  few  leaves  float  on  the  surface,  but  as  the  shoots 
gain  strength  they  rise  2  and  3  feet  above  the  surface. 

Raising  Plants  from  Seed— This  is  a  very  certain  method  of  increas- 
ing the  supply  of  plants,  not  only  for  planting  out  the  same  season,  but 
as  a  convenient  form  in  which  to  keep  plants  for  sale.  The  seeds  have  a 
very  hard  covering,  and  before  putting  them  in  water  this  covering 
should  be  pierced  either  with  the  point  of  a  knife  or  by  the  aid  of  a  file. 
A  very  small  opening  will  suffice  in  causing  them  to  germinate  in  a  few 
days.  About  the  end  of  March  sow  fairly  thick  in  a  shallow  seed  pan, 
sinking  it  about  6  inches  beneath  the  surface  in  a  warm  tank.  After  the 
seedlings  have  made  the  first  leaf  put  each  in  a  3-inch  pot.  They  can  be 
planted  out  of  these;  or,  if  necessary,  shift  into  6-inch  pots;  in  these 
they  will  pass  the  Summer  and  in  the  Fall  form  one  or  more  small 
tubers. 

Starting  Dormant  Tubers— Attempts  to  start  the  dormant  tubers  of 
Nelumbiums  after  removal  often  result  in  disappointment.  The  opera- 
tion of  digging  them  up  and  replanting  has  an  effect  upon  them  sufficient 
to  prevent  their  breaking  into  growth  with  the  same  certainty  that 
would  have  followed  had  they  been  left  undisturbed.  Especially  is  it  a 
risky  performance  to  plant  out  the  tubers  early  in  the  season.    I  find  it 


WATER   PLANTS.  97 

a  very  certain  method  to  let  the  tubers  float  on  the  surface  of  an  indoor 
tank,  or  tub,  on  which  the  sun  has  full  play;  they  soon  begin  to  form 
roots  quite  freely,  and  when  put  out  by  the  middle  of  May  or  beginning 
of  June,  according  to  locality,  they  continue  to  grow  very  luxuriantly, 
making  even  greater  progress  than  those  which  have  succeeded  in  start- 
ng  outside. 

Insect  Enemies  are  not  numerous;  there  is  one,  however,  which 
causes  great  trouble,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  long-established  colo- 
nies of  the  American  species,  N.  luteum.  This  insect  deposits  its  eggs  on 
the  leaves,  and  on  hatching  the  caterpillars  attack  the  outer  edges  prin- 
cipally, rolling  the  leaves  inward  as  they  develop.  Another  favorite 
point  of  attack  is  the  stem  of  the  leaf.  Beginning  at  the  top  the  cater- 
pillar will  eat  out  the  interior  part  for  several  inches.  In  large  collec- 
tions it  is  a  serious  matter  to  attempt  to  combat  this  pest,  but  where 
there  are  only  a  few  plants  hand  picking  will  prevent  them  doing  much 
injury. 

NYMPH^A— When  anything  like  fair  treatment  is  given  most  of  the 
species  and  varieties  of  Nymphseas  grow  very  rapidly  and  flower  abun- 
dantly. There  are  only  one  or  two  kinds  which  are  backward  in  this 
respect,  and  unfortunately  they  are  the  most  handsome  ones  of  the 
genus.  N.  gigantea,  a  light  blue-flowered  species  from  Australia,  and 
the  rose  colored  variety  of  N.  alba,  are  the  principal  offenders.  The 
former  can  be  managed  but  not  with  the  same  treatment  as  is  given  the 
other  blue-flowered  species.  With  N.  alba  rosea  the  trouble  seeijis  to  be 
caused  by  our  hot  Summers.  However,  there  are  numerous  other  species 
and  many  hybrid  forms  which  require  much  less  attention  than  the 
majority  of  other  classes  of  plants  to  bring  them  to  perfection.  There 
are  in  the  neighborhood  of  40  kinds  to  choose  from.  Of  these  about 
half  are  tender;  the  others  will  stand  the  Winters  successfully  if  the 
crowns  are  low  enough  in  the  water  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  Or 
if  they  be  grown  in  places  from  which  the  water  has  to  be  drawn  in 
Winter,  the  plants  may  be  covered  with  some  protecting  material.  But 
the  question  of  just  how  much  cold  the  various  kinds  will  stand  has  not 
been  ascertained.  I  have  had  tubs  of  several  kinds  frozen  solid  for  six 
weeks  at  a  time  without  injuring  the  plants  in  the  least. 

The  tender  kinds  are  divided  into  two  well  defined  sections— day 
blooming  and  night  blooming.  In  the  day  blooming  section  we  have  N. 
gracilis,  white;  N.  scutifolia,  N.  stellata,  with  numerous  forms  ranging 
from  colors  almost  blue  to  deep  rose;  N.  pulcherrima  produces  flowers 
exactly  similar  to  those  from  plants  raised  from  seed  of  N.  gracilis, 
which  have  evidently  been  fertilized  by  pollen  from  forms  of  N.  stellata; 
N.  elegans,  a  Mexican  species,  has  purplish  flowers;  N.  gigantea,  a  light 
blue-flowered  species  from  Australia,  has  the  largest  blooms  of  all, 
sometimes  attaining  a  diameter  of  16  inches. 

The  Night=bIooming  section  is  represented  by  about  ten  kinds,  the 
best  known  of  which  are:  N.  Lotus,  N.  rubra,  N.  devoniensis,  N.dentata 
and  N.  Sturtevantii.  Most  of  the  other  sorts  are  cross-bred  forms  be- 
tween N.  Lotus  and  N.  Sturtevantii.    All  of  the  tender  kinds  have  thick 


98  WATER   PLANTS. 

swollen  root-stocks,  while  the  hardy  species,  with  one  or  two  exceptions, 
have  thick,  fleshy  rhizomes. 

Among  the  hardy  sorts  N.  odorata  is  the  one  most  commonly  grown 
for  its  flowers.  A  form  of  this  is  known  as  the  Cape  Cod  Water  Lily;  N. 
odorata  rosea  has  bright  rose-colored  flowers;  N.  o.  sulphurea,  N. 
Marliacea  chromatella  and  N.  tuberosa  flavescens  have  yellow  flowers; 
N.  Marliacea  albida  and  N.  alba  are  pure  white.  A  new  hybrid  race  of 
which  N.  Laydekeri  rosea  is  the  best  known,  has  several  named  kinds 
with  rather  odd  colors,  but  they  are  less  desirable  than  some  of  the  bet- 
ter known  varieties.  They  are,  however,  well  suited  for  growing  in 
tubs  half  filled  with  soil,  and  the  remaining  space  with  water. 

Soil — All  of  the  species  and  varieties  will  thrive  in  loam  two  parts 
and  one  part  half-rotted  cow  manure.  Another  good  medium  is  formed 
by  adding  a  5-inch  potful  of  bone  meal  to  a  bushel  of  loam. 

Starting  Tubers  Into  Growth— The  tubers  of  the  tender  Nymphaeas 
should  be  started  not  later  than  the  beginning  of  April.  Each  tuber 
should  be  put  in  a  5-inch  pot,  using  pure  loam.  The  tuber  may  be 
covered  with  about  an  inch  of  soil  and  a  further  layer  of  half  an  inch 
of  sand,  and  put  in  a  tank  of  water  at  a  temperature  of  from  65  to  70 
degrees.  After  a  few  leaves  have  been  made  the  growth  should  be  sepa- 
rated from  the  tuber  and  repotted,  as  this  prevents  numerous  shoots 
developing  when  planted  out  and  secures  a  strong  single  growth.  This 
applies  to  all  of  the  tender  sorts.  The  tubers  may  be  pushed  back  in  the 
5-inch  pots,  where  they  will  continue  sending  up  fresh  shoots;  these,  or 
as  many  as  wanted,  may  be  potted  in  4-inch  pots  and  allowed  to  go  to 
rest  in  them.  Tubers  thus  formed  should  be  kept  for  stock  purposes, 
instead  of  old  plants. 

Summer  Quarters— In  this  latitude  it  is  safe  to  put  out  the  tenderest 
kinds  after  the  10th  of  May.  Each  plant,  whether  grown  in  sunken 
tubs,  boxes,  or  planted  in  the  bottom  of  the  pond,  should  have  at  least 
three  bushels  of  prepared  soil  to  grow  them  well.  One  foot  beneath  the 
surface  is  a  safe  distance;  but  they  will  thrive  much  deeper. 

Starting  Hardy  Nymphaeas- By  the  beginning  of  April  any  of  the 
hardy  Nymphaeas,  which  it  is  necessary  to  increase  or  replant,  should 
get  attention  before  they  make  too  much  headway.  In  dividing  up  such 
kinds  as  N.  helvola  and  the  pink  varieties  of  N.  odorata  with  small  rhi- 
zomes, such  as  N.  odorata  rosea  and  N.  o.  exquisita,  or  the  small  pieces 
of  N.  Marliacea  chromatella,  it  is  safest  to  start  the  pieces  in  pots  so 
that  they  will  make  a  few  leaves  before  being  transferred  to  their  perma- 
nent quarters.  Such  kinds  as  N.  alba,  N.  a.  candidissima,  N.  Marliacea 
albida,  N.  M.  rosea,  N.  M.  carnea  have  very  large  rhizomes,  and  there  is 
little  danger  but  that  they  will  give  a  good  account  of  themselves  after 
being  divided  and  planted  out. 

Wintering  Tender  Water  Lilies— From  the  15th  to  the  end  of  October 
the  tender  Water  Lilies  should  be  taken  indoors  for  the  Winter.  Where 
there  are  small  plants  or  tubers  of  the  tender  day  blooming  species  and 
varieties,  such  as  N.  zanzibarensis,  its  varieties  as  azurea  and  rosea, 
the  Australian  N.  gigantea,  N.  coerulea  and  N.  scutifolia,  let  the  old  ones 


WATER    PLANTS.  99 

go,  as  they  are  difiBcult  to  keep  over  the  Winter,  except  in  a  large  green- 
house tank.  Small,  dormant  tubers  of  any  of  the  above  can  be  started 
in  the  Spring,  and  by  careful  manipulation  they  will  give  several  plants 
each,  which  will  afford  as  much,  if  not  more,  satisfaction  than  would 
the  older  plants.  Another  matter  which  should  be  kept  in  mind  con- 
cerning the  above  kinds  is  that  they  do  not  form  small  tubers  at  the 
sides  of  the  large  ones  made  during  the  growing  season.  The  reverse  is 
the  case  with  such  species  and  forms  as  N.  dentata,  N.  devoniensis,  N. 
rubra,  N.  Sturtevantii,  N.  O'Marana,  N.  Columbiana,  N.  Deaniaua,  N. 
delicatissima  and  N.  Smithiana.  These  are  all  tender  night-blooming 
kinds  and  form  tubers  around  the  sides  of  the  parent  tuber  or  root- 
stock;  they  are  very  irregular  in  shape,  not  at  all  resembling  the  pear- 
shaped  tuber  of  a  young  starved  plant.  After  the  display  of  flower  is 
over  for  the  season,  cut  off  the  leaves  close  to  the  crown,  and  with  a 
spade  cut  off  the  roots  about  6  inches  from  the  crown;  lift  the  clump 
and  put  beneath  the  stage  of  a  warm  house.  The  central  part  will  decay 
in  a  short  time,  and  before  this  actually  happens  the  tubers  may  be 
gathered  and  stored  for  the  Winter.  N.  gracilis  and  N.  pulcherrima, 
white  and  blue  respectively,  will  keep  easily,  if  the  old  root-stocks  are 
saved,  as  they  do  not  decay  so  easily  as  the  other  tender  day  bloomers. 
When  it  is  necessary  to  keep  old  plants  of  the  above-named  day  bloomers 
other  than  N.  gracilis  and  N.  pulcherrima,  lift  the  smallest  of  the  plants, 
save  as  many  roots  and  leaves  as  possible,  pot  them  and  sink  in  a  tank, 
the  water  of  which  does  not  fall  below  50  degrees  F.  There  are  several 
methods  of  keeping  the  small  tubers  of  the  tender  Nymphseas  over  Win- 
ter. Those  from  the  night  bloomers  should  not  be  removed  in  a  hurry, 
as  the  wound  made  by  separating  is  apt  to  be  slow  in  healing,  and  the 
riper  the  tubers  when  the  work  is  done  the  greater  the  success.  They 
keep  well  in  damp  moss,  on  the  floor  of  a  warm  house.  If  they  are 
starved  tubers,  that  is,  of  the  pear-shaped  form,  there  is  little  fear  of 
decay  setting  in,  for  then  there  are  no  wounds  to  heal  as  in  the  case  of 
detached  tubers.  They  may  be  then  kept  dry,  but  warm.  Probably 
the  safest  plan,  and  the  one  which  I  adopt,  is  to  put  each  kind  in  a  pot 
of  sand  and  sink  in  a  warm  tank. 

Raising  Hardy  Kinds  from  Seeds — N.  pygmsea  seeds  very  freely,  in 
fact,  every  flower  may  be  depended  upon  to  ripen  a  capsule;  but  if  there 
is  an  overflow  to  the  pond  the  seeds  are  very  apt  to  get  lost,  as  they 
float  on  the  surface  after  being  liberated  from  the  capsule.  If  gathered 
before  this  takes  place,  and  the  pulpy  material  removed  from  around 
them,  they  may  be  thrown  in  a  part  of  the  pond  where  they  are  likely 
to  germinate.  N.  caroliniensis,  N.  tuberosa,  N.  odorata  and  one  or  two 
of  its  varieties  set  seeds  freely,  but  as  they  increase  so  easily  from  rhi- 
zomes there  is  little  need  of  raising  seedlings,  Marliac's  hybrids  are 
evidently  sterile,  although  the  pollen  in  those  I  have  tested  is  good. 
Some  of  these  hybrids  do  not  permit  of  division  of  the  root-stocks,  and 
the  probable  reason  why  they  cannot  be  propagated  in  this  country  is, 
one  of  the  parents  of  the  hybrids  being  so  diflicult  to  grow  here  it  is 
unavailable  for  the  purpose  of  pollination.  N.  lutea  and  N.  mexicana 
seed  somewhat  sparingly,  but  both  kinds  have  two  methods  of  resting 
during  Winter,  so  that  raising  plants  from  seed  need  not  be  resorted  to. 


100  WATER    PLANTS. 

Victoria  Regia— Of  this  there  are  two  forms— V.  R.  Randii  and  V. 
R.  Trickeri.  The  Victorias  are  grown  as  annuals,  the  seeds  being 
sown  about  the  beginning  of  January,  and  Isept  in  water  at  a 
temperature  of  at  least  80  degrees.  The  first  leaves  are  grass-like, 
gradually  assuming  the  peltate  form.  The  young  plants  should  be 
encouraged  to  make  all  the  growth  possible  before  being  put  out  of 
doors.  In  this  latitude  we  plant  them  out  about  May  20,  and  treat 
them  in  every  respect  like  tender  Nymphseas.  Each  plant  should  get  at 
least  a  couple  of  cartloads  of  prepared  soil,  to  have  the  plants  at  their 
best.  V.  Regia  has  leaves  over  6  feet  in  diameter.  The  leaf  of  V.  R. 
Randii  is  much  less  in  diameter,  but  more  turned  up  at  the  margins; 
that  of  V.  R.  Trickeri,  In  size,  is  intermediate  between  the  two. 

Labels  for  Water  Plants— Labels  for  pots  under  the  surface  of  the 
water,  if  of  the  ordinary  wooden  kind,  only  remain  in  good  condition 
for  a  short  time,  and  then  the  writing  becomes  obliterated.  With  the 
constantly  increasing  number  of  Nymphseas  and  Nelumbiums,  one  must 
be  well  acquainted  with  the  names  of  the  species  and  varieties  to  tell 
them  by  their  leaves,  but  when  in  a  dormant  state  it  is  impossible  to 
tell  some  of  the  kinds  from  others.  A  simple  method  of  getting  around 
this  difficulty  is  to  have  labels  made  of  strips  of  sheet  copper,  with 
a  number  stamped  across  the  top,  the  number  to  correspond  with  a 
numbered  list  of  the  species  and  varieties  kept  in  a  book.  The  numbers 
and  names  should  also  be  written  on  a  piece  of  board  and  nailed  up 
where  it  may  be  conveniently  referred  to.  These  labels  last  for  years, 
and  may  be  used  as  often  as  necessary.  In  Water  Lily  ponds,  whether 
the  plants  are  labeled  above  water  or  not,  those  intended  to  be  removed 
to  their  Winter  quarters  should  have  the  name  secured  by  nailing  a  strip 
of  the  copper  along  the  top  of  a  stout  wooden  label,  with  the  number 
belonging  to  the  kind  punched  on  the  copper.  With  copper  and  punches 
conveniently  at  hand  no  more  time  will  be  used  than  in  writing  an 
ordinary  label.  This  method  is  a  safe  one  also,  where  a  permanent 
label  is  desired  for  preserving  the  names  of  outdoor  vines,  shrubs  and 
trees. 

OUVIRANDRA  FENESTRALIS— The  lattice  leaf  plant  of  Madagascar. 
This  unique  subject  thrives  best  when  the  leaves  are  near  the  surface  of 
the  water.  The  pots  should  be  submerged  from  4  to  6  inches.  The 
temperature  of  tlie  water  should  never  be  below  65  degrees,  but  it 
should  be  kept  at  least  10  degrees  higher  most  of  the  time.  A  wide  tub 
and  one  about  14  inches  deep,  will  suffice  for  the  plant's  needs.  The  tub 
should  be  placed  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  stove,  and  shaded  from  the 
eun  at  all  seasons.  It  is  not  particular  as  to  soil,  growing  in  any  ordi- 
nary potting  mixture.  Loam,  sand  and  a  little  half-rotted  manure, 
topped  off  with  fine  grand,  produce  good  results.  When  in  an  evidently 
dormant  state  the  plant  will,  no  matter  at  what  season,  begin  to  send 
up  new  leaves  when  given  a  shift,  or  the  ball  reduced  and  fresh  soil 
afforded.  It's  greatest  enemy  is  the  confervoid  growths  which  cling  to 
the  leaves.  To  check  these,  keep  the  plant  in  total  darkness  for  a  few 
days.    Propagation  is  by  division,  and  from  seeds. 


101 


Ferns  and  Lycopods. 


ADIANTUM  (Maidenhair)  is  one  of  the  most  important  genera  of 
ferns,  as  it  contains  several  of  our  most  popular  decorative  plants. 
There  are  nearly  a  hundred  known  species;  many  of  these  are  in  cultiva- 
tion, besides  numerous  varieties  and  forms.  There  is  great  diversity  of 
form  in  the  fronds  of  different  species.  A.  reniforme  is  simple  and  liidney 
shaped.  Among  others  A.  macrophyllum  and  A.  peruvianum  have  the 
fronds  simply  pinnate.  In  the  greater  number  of  species  the  fronds  are 
much  branched.  Where  large  collections  of  ferns  are  grown  it  would  be 
a  difficult  task  to  select  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  kinds,  as  this 
genus  above  all  others  does  not  possess  a  simple  species  but  what  is 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  fernery.  For  decorative  purposes  A.  cuneatum 
is  more  extensively  grown  than  any  other  species.  There  are  several 
well  marked  forms.  A.  c.  gracillimum  has  the  segments  much  smaller 
than  in  those  of  the  type.  A.  c.  mundulum  is  a  dwarf  garden  form,  well 
suited  for  using  in  fern  dishes.  A.  c.  variegatum  has  the  pinnules  faintly 
marked  with  creamy  white.  A.  hispidulum  (pubescens)  is  a  species  much 
used  in  a  young  state,  as  it  can  be  got  up  in  quantity  very  readily. 
Plants  in  2  and  3-inch  pots  raised  from  spores  have  a  very  different 
appearance  from  those  which  have  reached  the  adult  stage.  A.  cauda- 
tum  and  A.  lunulatum  are  well  suited  for  planting  in  hanging  baskets. 
Young  plants  are  produced  at  the  ends  of  the  fronds,  and  when  planted 
out  among  rocks  in  a  greenhouse  they  soon  cover  a  large  space.  A. 
Capillus- Veneris  is  one  of  the  hardiest  of  the  genus,  but  it  has  a  very 
wide  geographical  distribution.  It  is  the  most  useful  of  all  ferns  for 
growing  on  damp  greenhouse  walls.  There  are  numerous  varieties,  A. 
C.-V.  imbricatum  has  very  large  pinnules;  it  is  shy  in  producing  spores, 
but  is  easily  increased  by  division  of  the  rhizomes  in  the  latter  part  of 
March.  A.  tenerum  makes  beautiful  specimens  in  5-inch  pots,  but  is  a 
little  tender  for  decorative  work.  Adiantum  fronds  will  keep  a  much 
longer  time  after  they  are  cut,  if  they  be  submerged  in  water  for  a  few 
hours,  than  if  used  direct  from  the  plant.  Among  the  tall  growing 
species  A.  trapeziforme  is  one  of  the  most  ornamental.  It  may  frequently 
be  met  with  in  collections,  and  has  fronds  3  to  4  feet  long.  A.  t. 
pentadactylon  is  a  well  marked  variety  and  should  always  be  included 
in  large  collections;  it  stands  well  as  a  decorative  plant.  A.  t. 
Sanctse  Catherinse  is  a  dwarf  variety,  with  the  segments  deeply  cut. 
This  species  and  its  varieties  are  best  increased  by  division  of  the 
crowns  before  starting  into  growth. 

Adiantum  Farleyense — Success  in  growing  this  important  com. 
mercial  fern  depends  to  a  great  extent  on  making  a  proper  start  with 
the  small  plants.  It  is  labor  lost  in  trying  to  make  a  healthy  plant  out 
of  an  unhealthy  one,  or  from  one  which  has  got  a  set-back  from  some 


102  FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS. 

cause,  unless  they  be  knocked  out  of  the  pots  and  split  up  into  small 
pieces — the  smaller  the  better,  provided  there  are  a  few  small  fronds 
attached  to  each  piece  and  a  probability  of  their  making  new  roots. 
A.  Farleyense  does  not  produce  spores  as  most  kinds  of  ferns  do.  The 
reason  is  because  it  is  not  a  species,  but  merely  an  unfertile  variety  of  a 
species  said  to  be  the  well  known  A.  tenerum;  consequently  the  only 
method  of  propagation  lies  in  dividing  the  old  plants.  Some  growers 
split  the  crowns  and  pot  the  growing  points  in  thumb  pots,  placing 
them  in  a  frame  or  close  shaded  house.  This  method  is  not  always 
satisfactory,  for  unless  the  points  have  fairly  good  live  roots  to  start 
with,  or  show  signs  of  immediately  making  fresh  ones,  their  struggle 
for  existence  is  apt  to  be  a  pretty  tough  one.  The  first  batch  may  be 
started  about  the  end  of  January  or  first  half  of  February.  Old  plants 
from  which  the  fronds  were  cut  earlier  in  the  season,  and  which  show 
little  colonies  of  small  fronds,  are  the  best  for  the  purpose.  Wash  every 
particle  of  soil  from  the  roots,  when  it  will  be  found  there  is  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  dead  but  hard,  wiry  rhizomes  just  beneath  the  surface 
of  the  soil.  This  material,  if  potted  up  with  the  pieces,  hinders  their 
growth  and  should  be  removed.  Select  only  the  rhizomes  which  have 
life  in  them  and  which  have  a  frond,  however  small,  or  a  piece  of  frond 
attached.  The  work  of  separation  should  be  done  with  the  aid  of  a 
sharp-pointed  pair  of  scissors.  Next  put  the  pieces  in  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  moss,  the  latter  rubbed  through  a  No.  8  sieve;  have  the  materials 
in  equal  parts.  Water  should  be  given  very  sparingly.  To  start  tbe 
pieces  into  growth  under  the  most  favorable  conditions  they  ought  to 
be  covered  with  glass  until  new  roots  and  fronds  push  out.  They  may 
then  be  potted  into  2-inch  pots. 

Adiantums  from  Spores— A.  cuneatum,  A.  pubescens  and  many  other 
species  vegetate  very  quickly  from  spores.  The  principal  points  to  be 
observed  are  to  have  the  soil  free  from  the  lower  forms  of  plant  life,  such 
as  mosses  and  liverworts.  Sow  the  spores  very  thinly.  Keep  the  pans 
in  which  they  are  sown  shaded  from  the  sun,  and  the  pans  covered  with 
glass  until  the  first  fronds  appear.  During  the  process  of  germination 
the  soil  should  not  be  watered  from  above,  but  by  sinking  the  pans  up 
to  the  rims  in  a  pail  of  water.  The  spores  will  germinate  in  almost  any 
kind  of  soil,  but  it  should  be  somewhat  porous  and  well  drained.  Sow 
in  early  Spring. 

Propagation  by  Division— A  cuneatum  and  A.  Roenbeckii  are  the  two 
Maidenhair  ferns  most  largely  grown.  These  and  their  allied  forms, 
which  have  become  unsightly  through  cutting  the  fronds,  on  being  re- 
peatedly used  in  decorations  during  the  Winter  season,  should,  while  in 
a  dormant  state,  have  all  the  fronds  cut  off  and  be  placed  in  the  coolest 
house,  where  they  should  be  allowed  to  rest  as  long  as  possible.  The 
appearance  of  the  young  fronds  will  serve  as  an  indication  as  to  how  the 
plants  should  be  split  up  previous  to  repotting.  Put  the  pieces  in  5-inch 
pots.  In  potting  use  a  loam  which  is  apt  to  get  hard  after  watering; 
this,  with  a  little  sand  and  leaf  soil,  will  give  good  results.  In  starting 
the  plants  they  will  not  suffer  by  having  the  house  almost  without 
shade. 


FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS.  103 

ASPIDIUM  CAPENSE— Where  a  good,  hardy,  ornamental  Fern  is 
wanted  for  decorative  purposes,  one  that  is  cheaply  got  up  and  not 
easily  spoiled,  A.  capense  will  answer.  From  a  well  filled  6  or  8-inch 
pot  several  dozen  plants  may  be  raised  within  a  few  months.  It  is  a 
greenhouse  species  requiring  but  little  heat  in  Winter. 

ASPLENIUM— A  very  large  genus.  Only  a  very  few  of  the  species  are 
extensively  grown,  but  none  of  them  is  on  the  short  list  of  the  best  dec- 
orative Ferns  for  florists.  A.  nidus,  the  Bird's-nest  Fern,  a  native  of 
Australia,  is  a  striking  species  with  very  large  simple  leaves.  It  must 
have  perfect  drainage,  rather  rough  and  fibry  soil,  and  a  stove  tempera- 
ture. 

CIBOTIUM  (Dicksonia)  SCHIEDEI— A  low-growing  Tree-Fern,  native 
of  Mexico.  The  fronds  are  of  a  light  shade  of  green  and  very  much  divided, 
those  of  young  plants  arching  gracefully.  It  stands  well  in  a  dry 
atmosphere.  Young  plants  come  readily  from  spores.  Old  plants  some- 
times make  numerous  growths  at  the  base  of  the  stem.  If  these  are 
taken  off  with  a  few  roots  attached  and  put  in  the  sand  bed  for  a  few 
weeks  they  make  specimen  plants  very  quickly. 

CYRTOniUM  (Aspidium)  FALCATUH,  together  with  C.  Fortunei  and 
A.  caryotideum,  arfe  among  the  hardiest  of  the  Ferns  used  for  decorat- 
ing, for  which  purpose  they  are  much  grown.  The  coolest  house  will  do 
for  the  plants  after  they  are  of  the  requisite  size.  The  fronds  are  simply 
pinnate,  the  pinnules  resembling,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  leaf  divisions 
of  the  fish-tail  Palm,  Caryota  urens.  Young  plants  are  raised  from 
spores. 

DAVALLIA — A  genus  of  Ferns  having  scaly  rhizomes  which  usually 
creep  along  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  send  out  roots  from  their  under 
surfaces.  Of  the  few  species  grown  D.  fijiensis  plumosa  is  one  of  the 
most  ornamental,  having  very  finely  divided  fronds.  It  must  be  grown 
in  a  warm  house.  As  it  is  not  a  deep  rooting  plant  pans  or  baskets 
should  be  used  according  to  the  purpose  for  which  the  plants  are  wanted. 
It  is  propagated  by  division  of  the  rhizomes  while  dormant.  D.  bullata, 
D.  pentaphylla,  D.  Tyermanni,  and  D.  dissecta  are  well  adapted  for  bas- 
kets. Those  made  of  wire  should  be  selected,  so  that  the  rhizomes,  as 
they  lengthen,  may  be  pegged  against  the  side.  D.  alpina  and  D.  par- 
vula  are  exceedingly  pretty  dwarf-growing  species  for  a  warm  green- 
house. D.  stricta  is  grown  as  a  pot  plant;  this  species  is  easily  raised 
from  spores. 

D.  Mariesii  is  the  species  used  in  making  up  "  Fern  Balls."  It  is  decidu- 
ous and  should  be  kept  moist  enough  In  Winter  to  prevent  the  rhizomes 
from  shrivelling. 

D.  Mooreana  is  a  desirable  plant  for  house  decoration,  but  is  not 
grown  in  quantity,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  getting  up  a  large  stock 
within  a  reasonable  time.  Those  in  a  starved  condition  make  the  best 
stock  plants. 

DICKSONIA  PAROMETZ  is  a  very  useful,  medium-sized  decorative 
species.    It  is  freely  increased  by  division. 


104  FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS. 

D.  antarctica— The  stems  of  this  noble  Tree-Fern  are  sometimes  im- 
ported in  a  dormant  state.  When  placed  in  a  cool,  moist  house  in  pots 
only  large  enough  to  accommodate  them,  they  usually  start  into 
growth.  Young  plants  are  raised  from  spores  sown  in  a  cool,  shaded 
greenhouse.  They  sometimes  germinate  freely  sown  on  the  stems  of  the 
old  plants.  The  fronds  are  of  a  leathery  texture,  and  the  plants  stand 
much  rough  treatment. 

LOMARIA  QIBBA  is  a  miniature  Tree-Fern  forming  very  graceful 
rosettes  of  simply  divided  leaves.  It  is  useful  even  in  a  very  small  state, 
as  the  foliage  is  different  from  that  of  most  other  Ferns  grown  in  quantity 
for  decorative  purposes.  Old  plants  produce  fertile  fronds  in  abun- 
dance, and  if  the  spores  are  harvested  and  sown  at  the  proper  time,  they 
vegetate  very  quickly.  By  this  method  of  increase,  plants  in  5-inch  pots 
may  be  produced  in  12  months  from  sowing.  Of  this  species  there  are 
one  or  two  handsome  forms.  L.  g.  Belli  has  the  points  of  the  pinnae 
beautifully  tasselled.  L.  g.  robusta  is  of  a  robust  growing  nature.  A 
species  closely  allied  to  L.  gibba,  known  as  L.  ciliata,  has  shorter  and 
stouter  fronds.  The  plant  is  quite  as  useful  and  as  easily  raised  from 
spores  as  L.  gibba. 

MICROLEPIA  (Davallia  )  HIRTA  CRIST  ATA  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
of  crested  Ferns,  capable  of  being  grown  into  very  large,  symmetrical 
specimens.  To  have  it  at  its  best  it  needs  a  warm  temperature.  Water 
should  be  kept  from  the  fronds,  as  they  are  quite  hairy  and  are  apt  to 
turn  brown  when  kept  wet.    Increased  by  division. 

NEPHROLEPIS — The  species  and  forms  are  for  the  most  part  plants 
with  tough,  leathery  fronds,  enabling  them  to  be  used  with  little  injury 
for  decorating  or  house  plants.  Several  varieties  are  largely  grown. 
The  most  popular  are  forms  of  N.  exaltata.  N.  e.  bostoniensis  is  an  old 
and  deservedly  popular  plant  which  has  within  the  last  few  years  been 
very  extensively  employed  as  a  decorative  plant.  Large  'specimens  are 
well  rdapted  for  placing  on  pedestals,  or  hanging  from  the  roof  of  a 
large  conservatory.  It  is  increased  by  division,  planting  the  pieces  in 
shallow  soil,  on  benches,  and  potting  up  the  young  plants,  which  are 
formed  from  runners.  The  plant  known  as  N.  davallioides  furcans  is  a 
crested  form,  evidently  not  of  N.  davallioides  but  of  some  other  species, 
probably  one  allied  to  N.  acuta.  When  planted  out  on  benches  it  gives 
off  plants  from  runners  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Boston  Fern,  but  not 
so  plentifully.  Old  specimens  may  be  divided  and  the  pieces  put  thickly 
together  on  a  bench,  in  leaf  mould  and  sand,  to  make  a  little  growth 
before  potting. 

N.  e.  cristata  is  a  form  closely  resembling  the  last  named ;  it  needs 
more  heat  to  develop  it  perfectly. 

N.  washingtoniensis  and  N.  w.  pendula  are  both  good  kinds  for  decora- 
tive purposes.  The  fronds  after  being  cut  will  last  for  a  long  time  un- 
der what  would  seem  adverse  conditions. 

N.  cordifolia,  when  well  grown,  is  an  elegant  decorative  subject.  The 
typical  form  is  much  smaller  than  any  of  the  above-mentioned  species 


FERNS   AND   LYCOPODS.  105 

and  varieties.  The  fronds  are  narrow  and  the  leaf  divisions  close  together, 
but,  like  some  of  the  others,  it  varies  much.  One  of  the  varieties  pro- 
duces tubers ;  the  fronds  in  this  case  are  large  and  may  be  mistaken  for 
those  of  N.  exaltata. 

N.  c.  pectinata  is  a  well  known  variety,  having  the  fronds  narrow 
and  drooping.  When  matured  it  is  usually  grown  in  baskets  suspended 
from  the  roof  of  a  greenhouse.  Useful  specimens  may  also  be  grown  in 
5-inch  pots.    Increased  by  divisions,  which  may  be  quite  small. 

N.  acuta  is  a  stout  growing  and  distinct  species;  the  fronds  are 
sometimes  16  inches  broad  and  from  2  to  4  feet  long.  It  makes  but  few 
fronds  when  compared  with  some  of  the  others.  It  must  have  abundant 
root  room.    Increased  by  stolons. 

N.  davallioides  is  somewhat  coarse  in  growth.  It  needs  careful  han- 
dling while  the  fertile  fronds  are  developing.  Moderate-sized  specimens 
do  not  show  this  plant  at  its  best,  as  it  is  the  very  long  fertile  fronds  on 
plants  several  feet  across  which  make  it  attractive.  Increased  by  divi- 
sion. 

ONYCHIUM— Of  this  genus  two  species  are  commonly  grown  for 
decorative  purposes;  the  fronds  are  very  much  divided.  O.  auratum  is 
the  largest,  but  O.  japonicum  is  the  handsomest.  Both  are  easily  in- 
creased from  spores;  or  the  old  plants  may  be  divided,  but  only  to  make 
large  specimens. 

PLATYCERIUM  (Stag  Horn  Fern)— From  their  wonderful  resem- 
blance to  the  antlers  of  a  stag  well  grown  plants  of  the  Platyceriums 
never  fail  to  attract  attention.  The  species  called  P.  grande  is  the  most 
striking  of  the  number.  A  native  of  the  northern  part  of  Australia  it 
needs  more  heat  than  most  of  the  others.  While  they  succeed  pretty 
well  in  pots  they  do  better  and  look  more  natural  when  grown  on  blocks 
of  wood.  Some  forked  limbs  of  trees  should  be  cut  up  on  which  to  fasten 
the  plants.  The  pieces  should  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  18  inches  in 
length.  Drive  in  a  few  nails  here  and  there;,  place  some  rough  peat  and 
moss  against  the  wood;  put  the  plant  in  position  and  wire  it  firmly, 
packing  in  portions  of  the  peat  and  moss  wherever  possible. 

P.  grande  can  only  be  propagated  in  quantity  from  the  spores, 
which  are  found  in  a  large  mass  underneath  the  primary  division  of  the 
frond.  Raising  young  plants  in  this  way  is  not  a  difficult  operation, 
but  one  that  requires  lots  of  patience.  A  pan  should  be  prepared  con- 
taining fibry  peat,  chopped  fine;  add  a  liberal  quantity  of  finely-broken 
brick,  charcoal,  and  coarse  sand.  The  pan  should  be  placed  in  a  flat  of 
water  so  that  the  mixture  may  derive  moisture  from  beneath.  Water 
should  never  be  given  overhead,  as  germination  depends,  to  a  great  ex- 
tent, on  the  spores  remaining  in  the  same  spot  until  the  prothallus  be- 
gins to  form. 

P.  alcicorne  and  its  var.  majus  may  be  grown  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
These  kinds,  together  with  P.  Hilhi  and  P.  sethiopica,  increase  rapidly 
from  the  roots,  many  bud-like  processes  forming  on  the  surfaces  and 


106  FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS. 

sending  up  tiny  leaves.    These  young  plants  may  be  removed  when  an 
inch  or  two  high,  and  potted  singly  in  small  pots. 

POLYPODIUM— This  is  the  largest  genus  of  the  order,  and  includes 
many  plants  which  have  long  been  known  under  other  generic  names. 
These  names  are  in  common  use,  and  it  is  likely  that  they  will  continue 
to  be  employed  for  a  long  time.  Some  of  the  better  known  are  Cam- 
pyloneuron,  Cryptosorus,  Drynaria,  Goniophlebium,  Goniopteris,  Lepi- 
cystis,  Niphobolus,  Phegopteris,  Phlebodium  and  Pleopeltis.  There  is  a 
great  number  of  exceedingly  beautiful  plants  among  the  species.  The 
varieties,  especially  those  of  the  common  Polypody,  P.  vulgare,  are 
among  the  handsomnest  of  hardy  Ferns,  but  they  are  not  so  much  grown 
in  America  as  in  Europe,  where  they  do  grandly  in  outdoor  ferneries. 

P.  (Goniophlebium)  sub=auriculatum  makes  one  of  the  finest  basket 
plants  for  a  warm  greenhouse.  The  fronds  are  several  feet  in  length, 
and  drooping.  This  Fern  is  not  diflacult  to  grow,  provided  it  be  given 
a  fibrous  soil  and  an  abundant  supply  of  water  during  the  period  of 
growth.  It  is  helped  along  wonderfully  by  adding  to  the  soil  some  finely 
crushed  bone  with  the  minute  particles  washed  out,  only  saving  the 
rougher  material  in  the  process  of  washing.  This  substance,  by  the 
way,  is  of  great  service  as  permanent  food  for  many  of  the  Ferns,  but 
the  deleterious  matter  must  be  removed  by  washing. 

P.  (Niphobolus)  lingua,  from  Northern  India  and  Japan,  is  almost 
hardy  and  one  of  the  best  for  house  culture.  There  are  three  forms:  one 
variegated,  another  crested,  the  third  having  the  largest  fronds.  The 
fronds  are  undivided,  very  leathery  in  texture  and  remain  in  good  condi- 
tion for  more  than  a  year.  All  of  them  are  very  readily  increased  by 
division. 

P.  Heracleum  and  P.  conjugatum  are  suitable  for  a  warm  conserva- 
tory. When  well  grown  they  are  odd  and  attractive.  The  very  thick 
rhizomes  grow  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  accommodate  themselves 
in  a  wonderful  way  to  a  limited  rooting  area  by  growing  in  coils. 

P.  (Phlebodium)  aureum  should  be  more  grown  for  decorativepurposes, 
as  it  will  stand  a  dry  atmosphere,  is  very  graceful,  and  the  spores  on  a 
small  frond  will  raise  thousands  of  plants.  They  should  be  sown  on 
very  finely  chopped  Fern  roots  mixed  with  screened  moss.  The  fronds 
are  from  2  to  4  feet  in  length,  and  from  9  to  18  inches  broad,  simply 
divided.  It  grows  most  luxuriantly  among  Fern  root,  peat  and  moss. 
There  is  a  form  called  P.  a.  sporadocarpum  with  fronds  very  glaucous, 
almost  blue,  usually  growing  from  12  to  18  inches  high— a  handsome 
plant,  showing  up  well  under  gaslight.  Increased  by  rhizomes.  It  needs 
more  heat  than  the  type. 

P.  rigidulum— A  species  too  seldom  seen.  It  has  two  kinds  of  fronds 
very  different  from  eaeh  other;  the  barren  ones  are  about  9  inches  In 
length,  divided  half  way  to  the  mid-rib,  forming  blunt  lobes.  The  fertile 
ones  reach  a  height  of  from  2  to  4  feet,  and  are  12  to  18  inches  broad. 
A  very  handsome  plant  for  collections. 

P.  Phymatodes  is  a  rhizomatous  species  of  very  rapid  growth,  with 
exceedingly  graceful  leaves.    The  fronds  are  deeply  pinnatifid,  the  fertile 


FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS.  107 

ones  narrowest.  One  of  the  uses  to  which  this  Fern  may  be  put  is  in 
training  against  damp  walls  or  on  the  dead  stems  of  Tree  Ferns.  It  is 
easiest  propagated  by  taking  pieces  of  the  rhizomes  with  fronds  attached 
and  pegging  down  in  4  or  5-inch  pots  of  sandy  soil. 

PTERIS— There  are  many  good  decorative  plants  in  this  genus,  all  of 
which  are  easy  to  propagate.  Most  of  them  may  be  grown  in  ordinary 
greenhouse  temperature.  Of  P.  serrulata,  much  used  in  a  small  state, 
there  are  numerous  forms,  some  of  which  have  beautifully  crested  fronds 
and  others  variegated. 

P.  cretica  albo=Iineata  is  one  of  the  finest  of  all  variegated  Ferns.  The 
barren  fronds  are  nearest  the  base  of  the  plant;  they  are  shorter  and 
broader  than  the  fertile  ones.  A  broad  band  of  creamy  white  occupies 
the  middle  of  each  leaf  division.  This  Fern  comes  true  from  the  spores, 
which  vegetate  in  a  very  short  time  after  sowing. 

P.  quadriaurita,  a  variable  species.  The  most  useful  form  is  known 
as  P.  q.  argyriea,  having  a  white  mark  down  the  center  of  each  frond — 
a  very  useful  variety  in  a  small  state.    It  is  raised  from  spores. 

Pteris  tremula  is  best  for  using  in  pots  not  under  5-inch.  It  is  one  of 
the  quickest  raised  from  spores.  There  are  crested  forms.  The  one 
named  P.  t.  Smithiana  has  been  in  the  trade  for  several  years. 

P.  Wallichii  and  P.  inequalifolia  (the  latter  evidently  related  to  P. 
semipinnata)  are  coarse  growing  and  easily  multiplied  by  division.  P. 
hastata  and  P.  macrophylla  have  very  dark  green  fronds.  Both  are 
very  liable  to  insect  attacks,  unless  grown  cool.  They  are  both  useful  in 
2  and  3-inch  pots. 

SELAGINELLA— Although  not  related  to  Ferns,  some  of  the  species 
have  a  striking  resemblance  to  these  plants.  Their  cultural  require- 
ments are  almost  similar.  They  do  best  in  shade,  and  with  a  few  excep- 
tions they  need  a  rather  warm  atmosphere,  especially  while  making 
their  new  growth.  They  may  be  propagated  from  spores,  division  of 
the  crowns,  or  from  cuttings.  Propagation  by  spores  is  seldom  attempted, 
as  dividing  the  plants  and  rooting  from  cuttings  will  give  an  abun- 
dant supply. 

S.  Emmeh'ana,  one  of  the  best  for  supplying  small  plants  for  mixing 
with  Ferns,  is  increased  by  breaking  up  the  mature  fronds  into  small 
pieces,  and  scattering  these  on  the  surface  of  aibox  or  bed  of  sandy  soil, 
which  should  be  kept  moist  and  shaded  from  the  sun.  Every  small 
piece  will  make  a  plant. 

S.  Kraussiana  is  a  dense  growing  moss-like  species,  much  used  for 
covering  the  soil  in  pots  in  which  other  plants  are  growing,  in  Fern 
dishes,  and  for  the  borders  of  conservatory  beds.  S.  K.  aurea  has  yel- 
low foliage.  S.  K.  variegata  is  green  and  white.  In  propagating  this 
species  and  its  forms  it  should  not  be  broken  up  into  little  tufts  and 
potted,  as  is  usually  the  case.  Take  single  growths  and  put,  say  three 
of  them, in  a  3-inch  pot;  in  a  short  time  they  will  developeuough  growth 
to  cover  the  soil. 


108  FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS. 

S.  erythropus  is  a  useful  species  with  reddish  stems  reaching  a  height 
of  about  9  inches. 

S.  Martensii,  a  Mexican  species,  is  one  of  those  most  frequently  grown. 
It  is  exceedingly  easy  to  propagate,  as  long  serial  roots  are  made  from 
the  stems.  Cuttings,  say  about  4  inches  in  length,  will  root  well  if  put 
in  small  pots  and  kept  close;  or  to  fill  large  pans,  and  have  them  present 
a  well-furnished  appearance  in  a  short  time,  root  the  pieces  in  sand, 
afterward  putting  directly  in  the  pans. 

S.  lepidophylla  is  the  well-known  "Resurrection  Plant,"  which,  when 
dry,  curls  up  into  a  ball,  and  which  uncurls  when  placea  in  water. 

S.  viticulosa  grows  about  8  inches  high,  is  always  bright  green.  An 
easily  divided  plant  and  useful  in  a  small  state. 

S.  csesia  arborea  is  a  climbing  species  very  suitable  for  rambling  over 
rustic  work  in  a  moist  conservatory.  Where  its  aerial  roots  are  allowed 
to  fasten  themselves  to  suitable  material  it  grows  into  a  dense,  irregular 
mass  of  lovely  bluish-green  foliage. 

Soil— This  should  be  of  a  porous  nature,  through  which  water  will 
pass  freely.  Small  plants  from  spores  will  need  about  two  parts  leaf 
soil  and  one  each  of  loam  and  sand.  Loam,  whenever  used,  should  be 
fibrous,  well  broken  up  and  not  sifted.  For  plants  in  pots  larger  than  4- 
inch,  leaf  soil,  loam  and  sand,  in  equal  parts,  will  be  a  safe  compound. 
Some  Ferns,  notably  A.  Farleyense,  are  benefited  by  having  some  rotted 
cow  manure  mixed  with  the  soil.  Large  plants,  and  those  which  have 
to  remain  in  the  same  pots  for  any  length  of  time  without  shifting, 
should  have  less  leaf  soil  and  more  loam.  But  most  of  the  species  thrive 
in  a  variety  of  soils.  The  usual  time  for  potting  large  plants  is  before 
starting  into  growth;  but  rapid-growing,  small  plants  should  be  shifted 
into  larger  pots  as  they  need  them. 

Summer  Quarters  for  Cool  House  Ferns—Many  Ferns  used  during 
Winter  as  decorative  plants  will  be  found  to  put  on  a  vigorous  growth 
in  frames  during  the  warm  months.  Select  those  frames  with  a  northern 
exposure,  with  the  sashes  tilted  to  give  an  abundance  of  air.  The  pots 
may  be  plunged  or  placed  on  some  material  capable  of  giving  off  consid- 
erable moisture.  The  plants  may  be  kept  in  this  structure  till  cool 
weather.  Among  the  kinds  which  may  be  thus  treated  are  Pteris  Vic- 
torise,  P.  cretica  albo-hneata,  P.  Mayii,  P.  serrulata  and  its  many 
forms,  P.  tremula,  P.  hastata,  Onychium  japonicum,  Aspidium  capense, 
Adiantum  Capillus-Veneris,  A.formosum,Cyrtomium  falcatum  and  Dick- 
sonia  antarctica.  In  Winter  a  minimum  temperature  of  45  degrees  will 
keep  all  of  the  Ferns  named  above  in  healthy  condition.  For  the  tender 
kinds  10  to  15  degrees  higher  will  be  necessary. 

Shading— Some  Ferns,  such  as  Cheilanthes  vestita,  grow  in  dry  places 
in  the  full  sun,  but  the  vast  majority  thrive  only  under  conditions  exactly 
the  reverse.  In  Winter  the  very  thinnest  shade  will  be  sufficient,  and 
from  the  1st  of  April  to  the  end  of  September  it  should  be  heavy  enough 
to  intercept  the  sun's  rays. 


FERNS  AND   LYCOPODS,  109 

Preparing  Soil  for  Fern  Spores— The  greatest  hindrances  to  raising 
Ferns  from  spores  are  the  lower  forms  of  plant  life  ever  present  in  the 
soil,  and  very  often  in  the  water.  These  consist  of  Mosses,  Liverworts 
and  the  various  confervoid  growths.  Many  of  them,  owing  to  the 
favorable  conditions  presented,  vegetate  as  quickly  as  the  spores  of  the 
Ferns  and  grow  into  a  mass,  choking  the  prothallus  in  the  first  stages 
of  growth.  The  only  means  of  getting  around  this  difficulty  lies  in  ster- 
ilizing the  soil,  or,  at  least,  that  part  of  it  on  which  the  spores  are  to  be 
sown;  and  this  can  only  be  done  safely  by  subjecting  it  to  a  temperature 
sufficiently  high  to  kill  all  plant  organisms,  by  baking,  steaming  or  boil- 
ing. The  last  method  will  be  the  most  available  in  the  majority  of 
cases.  The  soil  may  be  boiled  for  15  or  20  minutes,  and  afterward 
poured  into  wide  flat  boxes  to  dry.  Shallow  pans  are  the  most  conve- 
nient in  which  to  vegetate  the  spores;  they  should  be  well  drained  with 
potsherds  and  these  covered  with  a  layer  of  sphagnum.  The  kind  of 
soil  to  be  used  is  of  little  importance,  provided  it  be  porous  and  free  of 
vegetable  organisms.  Loam,  leaf  mould  and  finely  broken  brick,  in 
equal  parts,  make  an  ideal  mixture.  Press  it  firmly  and  give  water 
always  by  sinking  the  pan  up  to  the  rim  in  a  vessel  containing  water. 

Gatliering  and  Sowing  Spores— Many  failures  in  germinating  some  of 
the  rarer  kinds  of  Ferns  may  be  set  down  to  harvesting  the  spores  at 
the  wrong  time.  They  should  always  be  gathered  with  the  aid  of  a 
hand-magnifying  glass,  which  will  show  when  the  cases  are  about  to 
burst.  Cut  off  the  entire  frond,  or  as  much  as  may  be  wanted,  and  put 
between  sheets  of  white  paper  to  dry.  In  a  day  or  two  the  spores  will 
have  fallen  from  the  frond;  if  not,  a  gentle  rubbing  between  the  fingers 
will  release  them.  They  should  then  be  scattered  on  the  surface  of  the 
soil  in  the  pan,  taking  care  to  sow  very  thinly,  as  they  are  very  liable  to 
dampen  off  when  the  prothalli  are  too  close  together.  Cover  with  a 
pane  of  glass  and  put  the  pan  in  a  shaded  frame,  or  in  a  heavily  shaded 
part  of  the  greenhouse.  When  the  prothallus  develops,  and  just  as  the 
first  tiny  leaves  appear,  the  glass  covers  may  be  removed,  to  harden  the 
seedlings  a  little.  A  day  or  two  after  they  may  be  pricked  off  into  other 
pans  of  soil,  taking  one  small  patch  at  a  time  on  the  end  of  a  knife  blade 
and  merely  pressing  them  into  a  previously  made  cavity  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil.    They  may  then  be  watered  through  a  fine  rose. 

Viviparous  Ferns  are  those  which  develop  bulbils  along  the  midribs 
or  on  the  lateral  branchlets  of  the  fronds,  thus  providing  a  ready  means 
of  propagation.  Polystichum  angulare,  Asplenium  bulbiferum  and 
Woodwardia  radicans  are  good  examples.  There  are  also  several  other 
well-known  Ferns  which  possess  this  peculiarity.  To  increase  Ferns  by 
this  means  sink  the  pots  up  to  their  rims  in  a  suitable  mixture  of  soil 
to  enable  the  fronds  which  are  provided  with  bulbils  to  be  easily  pegged 
down,  so  that  plantlets  may  be  encouraged  to  develop  roots  quickly. 
When  they  have  made  a  sufficient  quantity  to  enable  them  to  become 
self-supporting  they  may  be  separated  from  the  frond  and  potted  sepa- 
rately into  21/2-inch  pots,  or,  if  too  small  for  pots,  they  may  be  pricked 
off  into  boxes  or  pans. 


110  FEENS  AND   LYCOPODS. 

Insect  Enemies— If  the  plants  are  not  subjected  to  adverse  condi- 
tions, such  as  too  high  a  temperature,  or  insufficient  moisture  in  the  air 
or  at  the  roots,  they  will  seldom  be  attacked  by  insects.  The  Mealy 
Bug,  Thrips  and  Brown  Scale,  are  sometimes  troublesome.  Scale  is  not 
easy  to  remove,  and  the  only  efficacious  method  is  to  use  a  sponge  and 
water.  For  the  other  insects  fumigation  or  vaporizing  may  be  resorted 
to,  or,  if  only  a  few  plants  are  affected,  they  may  be  laid  on  their  sides 
and  the  insects  removed  by  using  the  hose.  <Slugs  are  the  greatest  ene- 
mies of  the  Ferns,  and  a  close  watch  should  be  kept  for  them.  Various 
methods  are  employed  to  capture  them,  such  as  a  board  smeared  on  the 
under  side  with  lard,  cabbage  leaves,  and  sliced  turnips,  or  potatoes  laid 
among  the  plants;  or  by  using  camphor  among  the  pots,  and  air-slacked 
lime  on  and  under  the  benches.  If  the  slugs  are  numerous,  hand-picking 
should  first  be  resorted  to.  They  feed  at  night  and  rest  during  the  day. 
They  will  usually  be  found  in  the  angular  space  beneath  the  rims  of  the 
pots. 


Ill 


Hardy  Perennial  Plants. 

AC/ENA  MICROPHYLLA— A  native  of  New  Zealand.  In  localities 
where  this  species  will  thrive  it  will  be  found  one  of  the  best  trailing 
dwarf  sub-shrubs.  The  flowers  are  inconspicuous,  but  the  flower  heads, 
on  maturing,  are  covered  with  long,  crimson  spines,  which  give  the 
plant  a  very  ornamental  appearance.  For  a  rockery  few  plants  surpass 
it  in  forming  neat,  compact  masses.  It  is  not  particular  as  to  soil.  In 
this  locahty  young  plants  are  best  put  out  in  their  permanent  positions 
early  in  the  Fall,  as  when  put  out  in  Spring  they  do  not  make  sufficient 
growth  to  insure  a  healthy,  vigorous  condition  during  the  hot  months. 
It  is  propagated  by  division  and  from  seeds. 

ACANTHUS— In  warm  spots,  at  least  three  of  the  species  are  hardy 
with  us,  but  they  bloom  only  sparingly.  In  one  or  two  of  the  species, 
but  notably  in  A.  spinosus,  the  flower  stalks  have  a  handsome  appear- 
ance for  quite  a  while  after  the  flowers  are  dead.  A.  mollis  and  A.  m. 
latifolius  were  used  for  bedding  in  this  city  a  few  years  ago.  These 
kinds  are  easily  increased  by  division  of  the  roots.  Seeds  are  readily 
obtained.  The  seedhngs  may  be  planted  out  in  places  where  they  are  to 
remain  a  few  weeks  after  germinating.  They  are  deep-rooting  plants. 
In  the  colder  parts  of  the  country  all  of  the  species  should  have  the 
crowns  protected  in  Winter. 

ACHILLEA  niLLEFOLIUn— A  native  composite,  with  large  flat  corymbs 
of  white,  red,  or  purple  flowers.  The  leaves  are  much  divided.  It  is  one 
of  the  easiest  plants  to  cultivate  in  the  open  border,  spreading  very 
rapidly  and  flowering  profusely.  Large  clumps  may  be  divided  with  a 
spade  at  any  time  during  Spring  or  Autumn  and  replanted.  It  usually 
grows  from  one  to  two  feet  high. 

A.  ptarmica  fIore=pIeno— The  variety  of  this  known  as  The  Pearl  is 
one  of  the  most  desirable  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  because  of  the 
flowers,  which  are  double  and  white.  They  are  produced  in  great  pro- 
fusion if  the  plants  get  fair  treatment.  This  Achillea  should  not  be 
divided  in  Spring,  for  unless  favorable  weather  conditions  follow  the 
operation  the  plants  will  receive  a  check  from  which  they  do  not  thor- 
oughly recover  the  same  season.  If  taken  up  and  divided  during  the 
first  half  of  October,  replanted  and  watered  if  necessary,  they  will  de- 
velop working  coots  before  freezing  weather,  and  send  up  flowers  the 
following  season  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  Do  not  divide  the  plants 
too  closely,  and  if  the  ground  in  which  they  are  growing  is  dry,  water 
well  before  the  operation  and  give  another  watering  when  the  pieces  are 
replanted. 

Other  varieties  of  A.  p.  flore-pleno  are  known  as  Snowball  and  Ele- 
ganSj  all  of  them  are  white  flowered. 


112  HARDY   PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

A.  tomentosa  is  a  dwarf,  woolly-leaved  evergreen,  with  yellow 
flowers.    Increased  by  division. 

A.  mongolica  grows  about  18  inches  high,  bears  single  white  flowers. 
Comes  into  bloom  early,  and  is  used  for  cutting.  All  of  the  kinds  need 
full  sunshine. 

ACIPHYLLA  SQUARROSA  and  A.  COLENSOI— New  Zealand  umbel- 
liferous plants,  with  dense  rosettes  of  sharp-pointed  leaves.  In  a  young 
and  flowerless  stage  they  are  attractive,  and  may  be  used  in  Summer  for 
rockwork.  In  the  colder  parts  the  plants  should  either  be  lifted  and 
stored  in  a  frame,  or  protected  by  a  covering  of  some  kind.  Both  are 
raised  from  seeds  sown  during  the  latter  part  of  February. 

ACONITUn  (Monkshood)— In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country,  where 
the  Delphiniums  will  not  thrive,  some  of  the  Aconitums  will  be  found  to 
be  pretty  fair  substitutes,  as  they  thrive  moderately  well  where  the  sun 
is  only  allowed  to  strike  them  through  a  leafy  shade.  If  the  soil  around 
them  is  given  a  mulch  of  2  or  3  inches  deep,  to  preserve  moisture,  they 
will  flower  all  the  better  for  it.  The  species  are  very  numerous  and  have 
a  wide  geographical  range.  A.napellusisthe  best  known;  unfortunately 
it  is  one  of  the  most  poisonous  of  cultivated  plants,  but  hurtful  only 
when  taken  internally.  Some  of  its  varieties  are  A.  n.  album,  flowers 
white;  A.  n.  longibracteatum,  rich  blue;  A.  n.  bicolor,  white  and  lilac; 
A.  n.  Braunii,  deep  purple.  A.  ochroleucum  and  A.  pyrenaicum  have 
pale  yellow  flowers.  A.  napellus  and  its  forms  flower  about  midsum- 
mer. A.  Fiseheri,  a  pale  blue  flowered  native  species,  blooms  late  in 
Summer.    Propagated  by  division  in  Fall  or  Spring. 

ACORUS    CALAMUS    VARIEGATUS     (Variegated    Sweet    Flag)    is    a 

grassy-looking  plant,  with  finely  marked  leaves.  It  is  well  suited  for 
growing  on  the  margins  of  artificial  lakes;  few  other  places  will  keep  it 
in  a  healthy  state  unless  the  soil  be  moist  and  partly  shaded.  It  should 
be  propagated  by  division  of  the  rhizomes,  as  growth  commences  in 
Spring.  A.  gramineus  variegatus  is  an  exceedingly  handsome  little 
variegated  plant,  growing  only  a  few  inches  high.  It  will  thrive  in 
much  dryer  soil  than  the  first-named  species.  It  makes  a  great  number 
of  grassy-looking  growths,  so  that  division  is  an  easy  matter  at  almost 
any  time. 

ADONIS— -The  annual  species,  of  which  there  are  two— A.  aestivalis 
and  A.  autumnalis — are  more  commonly  grown  than  the  perennials  of 
which  there  are  four.  A.  vernalis  and  A.  pyrenaica  are  very  elegant 
species  for  borders  or  rockwork.  The  flowers  are  large,  yellow ;  the  foli- 
age much  divided.  They  do  best  with  slight  shade.  Propagation  by  seed 
is  a  rather  slow  method.  Large  plants  will  best  stand  division  in  early 
Autumn. 

iCTHIONEMA  CORIDIFOLIUH— A  slender,  evergreen  shrub,  growing 
about  6  inches,  suitable  for  edgings  of  borders  or  for  rockwork.  Very 
readily  raised  from  seeds  which  should  be  sown  in  Autumn  and  the  seed- 
lings put  out  early  in  Spring.  When  in  rockwork  pockets  give  a  mulch- 
ing of  leaf  Boll  or  moss  to  prevent  baking  of  the  earth  and  to  keep  the 


HARDY   PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  113 

roots  cool.    It  belongs  to  the  Nat.  Ord.  Cruciferae.    Other  good  species 
are  A£,.  grandiflorum  and  .^.  pulchellum. 

AQROSTEMMA  (Lychnis)  CORONARIA— This  species  and  its  varieties 
are  always  satisfactory  in  the  herbaceous  border.  They  are  very  quickly 
raised  from  seed,  or  by  division.  The  foliage  is  silvery  throughout; 
the  flowers  are  rose  colored;  A.  c.  atro-sanguinea,  crimson;  A.  c.  alba, 
white;  A.  c.  hybrida,  rosy  crimson.  They  grow  from  one  to  two  feet 
high.  Almost  any  kind  of  soil  will  suit  them,  but  they  must  have  full 
sunshine. 

A.  flos-Jovis  differs  from  A.  coronaria,  in  having  umbellate  heads  of 
bloom,  with  the  foliage  narrower.    The  flowers  are  purple  or  scarlet. 

All  of  the  above  are  useful  plants  for  florists  to  handle.  Sow  the  seed 
in  the  Fall;  keep  in  a  cooj  house.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  large 
enough  prick  off  into  boxes.  They  may  be  put  out  in  a  cold  frame  very 
early  in  the  season.  Or  by  sowing  early  in  September  the  seedlings  can 
be  wintered  in  frames. 

AJUQA— The  creeping  or  stoloniferous  species  are  much  used  as  dwarf 
plants  for  forming  dense  carpets,  either  on  rockwork  or  in  the  open 
border.  As  they  grow  in  dense  masses  they  usually  are  self-supporting 
during  the  hot  months.  A.  reptans  var  rubra  has  dark  purple  foliage. 
A.  r.  variegata  is  beautifully  mottled  with  yellow.  A.  genevensis  is  a 
variable  species  with  dull  red,  white  or  blue  flowers;  does  well  in  shady 
places.  All  of  the  above  are  readily  increased  by  division  either  in  Fall 
or  Spring. 

ALTH^A  ROSEA  (Hollyhock)— One  of  the  tallest  growing  herbaceous 
plants,  also  one  of  the  showiest.  It  is  what  may  be  called  an  old-fash- 
ioned flower,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  there  has  been  any  improvement  in  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  bloom  for  a  goodly  number  of  years.  A  host  of 
varieties  used  to  be  kept  true  to  name  years  ago;  these  were  perpetu- 
ated by  cuttings,  divisions  and  grafting  on  roots;  but  now  the  best 
sorts  come  tolerably  true  from  seeds.  The  principal  colors  are  white, 
yellow,  pink,  red  and  purple.  Seeds  to  produce  flowering  plants  within 
a  year  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe — usually  in  August.  Sow  in  a 
box  of  rather  light  soil  and  cover  very  lightly  with  screened  moss.  The 
seedlings  being  large  from  the  start  should  be  put  singly  in  small  pots, 
and  as  they  get  too  large  for  that  size,  shift  into  two  or  three  sizes 
larger.  Keep  them  in  a  cold  frame;  give  an  abundance  of  ventilation  in 
favorable  weather  so  that  they  may  become  stocky  and  robust.  The 
ground  should  be  well  prepared  for  their  reception,  otherwise  they  will 
not  attain  full  size — 6  to  8  feet  tall — and  only  remain  in  bloom  two  or 
three  weeks.  The  plants  should  be  put  out  as  early  as  the  ground  can 
be  worked.  Good  kinds  should  be  marked  for  seed  as  they  bloom,  and 
extra  good  sorts  may  be  propagated  by  any  of  the  above  mentioned 
methods. 

ALYSSUM  (Madwort)— In  this  genus  there  are  several  rockwork  or 
borderplants,  which,  in  their  seasons,  make  a  good  show  while  in  bloom. 
A.  saxatile  and  A.  s.  compactum  are  Spring  bloomers.    The  plants  are 


114  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

of  a  dwarf  shrubby  nature  with  grayish-green  leaves  and  dense  heads  of 
deep  yellow  flowers.  A.  s.  variegatum  has  the  foliage  marked  with  yel- 
low blotches,  which,  when  the  plant  is  out  of  bloom,  renders  it  more 
valuable  than  the  type  as  an  ornamental  plant  during  the  Summer.  A. 
gemonense  is  nearly  allied  to  A.  saxatile,  but  is  less  hardy,  and  continues 
longer  in  bloom.  A.  rostra tum  grows  about  I1/2  feet  high  and  blooms 
later  than  any  of  the  above  named.  The  species  and  forms  are  not  par- 
ticular as  to  soil,  usually  growing  very  freely  wherever  planted.  They 
are  easily  raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in  August  and  the 
seedlings  kept  in  a  light,  airy  position  until  large  enough  to  be  planted 
out. 

ANEMONE  JAPONICA— This  species  and  its  varieties  are  late  flowering 
hierbaceous  plants,  growing  from  one  to  two  feet  high,  with  large  white 
or  pale  rose-colored  flowers,  useful  for  cutting.  The  varieties  are  A.  j. 
alba,  A.  j.  rosea  and  A.  j.  Whirlwind.  Root  propagation  is  the  method 
employed,  and  it  may  be  done  at  almost  any  season,  but  preferably  in 
early  Spring.  Dig  up  some  of  the  oldest  plants,  saving  even  the  small 
roots.  Cut  both  large  and  small  into  pieces  about  2  inches  in  length 
and  put  in  boxes  of  sandy  soil,  covering  the  pieces  with  an  inch  of  the 
same  material.  Keep  fairly  moist  and  in  a  cool  frame.  When  the  roots 
have  developed  growths  from  2  to  3  inches  high  put  in  3-inch  pots, 
plunging  these  in  ashes  and  keeping  them  covered  for  a  few  days.  After 
the  plants  make  a  sufiicient  quantity  of  roots  they  should  be  put  out  in 
their  permanent  quarters,  where  preparation  should  be  made  for  them 
In  advance  by  having  the  ground  deeply  worked  and  well  manured. 
During  Summer,  both  young  and  old  plants  should  be  heavily  mulched 
if  the  maximum  number  of  flowers  are  expected  from  them.  During  dry 
weather  the  plants,  if  neglected,  are  apt  to  stand  still  and  throw  up 
only  a  few  feeble  looking  flowers,  so  it  is  important  that  they  be  kept 
moderately  moist  by  mulching.  Short  grass,  leaves,  or  half-rotted 
stable  bedding  will  answer.  In  this  genus  there  are  about  85  species, 
several  of  which  have  numerous  varieties.  Most  of  them  are  desirable 
plants,  but  some  are  weedy,  and  increase  too  rapidly  in  gardens. 

A.  alpina,  a  European  species,  grows  about  18  inches  high,  forming 
large  clumps.  The  flowers  are  usually  solitary,  from  2  to  3  inches  in 
diameter,  white  inside,  purplish  outside.  There  is  a  very  fine  yellow 
flowered  variety  of  this  named  A.  a.  sulphurea.  Both  kinds  are  slow  in 
making  flowering  plants  from  seeds. 

Among  the  slender,  tuberous  rooted  section,  A.  Appenina  and  A. 
nemorosa  are  early  flowering  dwarf  si^ecies  well  suited  for  naturalizing 
among  deciduous,  low-growing  trees  and  shrubs,  as  they  make  most  of 
their  growth  before  the  shrubs  and^trees  are  in  leaf. 

ANTIRRHINUM  (Snapdragon)— The  varieties  of  A.  majus  have  long 
been  grown  as  hardy  perennials  in  Europe.  In  the  northern  and  middle 
parts  the  climatic  conditions  are  more  favorable  for  their  growth  in  the 
late  Summer  and  Autumn  months,  as  they  flourish  best  in  a  moist,  cold 
atmosphere.  In  America,  especially  in  the  Middle  and  South  Atlantic 
States,  they  are  best  treated  as  biennials,  as  the  plants  which  survive 
the  Winter  are  usually  not  in  as  vigorous  a  condition  as  could  be  wished. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  115 

Cuttings  may  be  put  in  during  October  and  given  the  protection  of  a 
frame  during  the  cold  months.  Or  seeds  should  be  sown  late  in  Septem- 
ber to  have  good-sized  plants  by  the  following  Spring.  The  tops  of  the 
seedlings  may  be  rooted  quickly  in  the  propagating  bed  of  a  cool  house; 
or  they  may  be  grown  from  the  start  with  the  view  of  flowering  them 
in  pots,  for  which  purpose  they  are  entirely  satisfactory.  The  principal 
colors  are  white,  red,  purple  and  yellow,  several  kinds  having  combina- 
tions of  two  or  more  of  these  colors.  A.  asarina,  from  the  south  of 
France,  has  a  trailing  habit;  the  leaves  are  grayish  green  and  of  a 
clammy  nature;  flowers  yellowish  white.  It  thrives  best  in  positions 
partly  shaded  from  the  sun.  It  reproduces  itself  freely  from  seeds  which 
ripen  in  abundance  and  may  frequently  be  seen  growing  in  the  chinks  of 
shady  walls. 

AQUILEQIA  (Columbine)— Hardy  perennial  plants  with  very  showy 
flowers.  The  colors  include  red,  white,  blue  and  yellow;  often  there  are 
two  or  more  of  these  colors  in  the  same  flower.  About  30  species  are  in 
cultivation.  There  are  numerous  varieties,  the  results  of  hybridization, 
few  of  which,  however,  surpass  the  species  in  attractiveness  as  border 
plants.  The  Aquilegia  is  so  easily  hybridized  that  it  is  almost  impossi- 
ble to  obtain  plants  from  seeds  true  to  name  when  two  or  more  species 
are  grown  near  each  other;  even  with  two  species  apparently  very  dis- 
tinct, such  as  A.  chrysantha  and  A.  flabellata,  they  readily  mix,  but  the 
progeny  has  a  very  undesirable  combination  of  colors  in  the  flowers. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  protect  a  few  flowers  of  the  desirable  species 
from  the  visitations  of  insects,  so  as  to  make  certain  of  having  the  seed- 
lings true.  I  have  found  the  best  way  to  do  this  is  to  flower  a  few 
plants  in  pots  and  keep  the  blossoms  covered  with  fine  cloth  while  fer- 
tilization is  in  progress.  The  seeds  germinate  irregularly  when  they 
remain  long  out  of  the  soil,  but  when  sown  as  soon  as  gathered  they 
vegetate  very  freely,  even  in  midsummer.  Spring  sowing  is  unsatisfac- 
tory, because  the  seedlings  do  not  make  desirable  growth  during  hot 
weather,  and  often  more  than  a  year  elapses  before  any  flowers  are  pro- 
duced. Sow  in  moderately  light  soil,  and  cover  lightly  with  screened 
moss;  keep  in  an  airy,  cool  house.  When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough 
they  may  be  pricked  off  into  boxes,  or  round  the  edges  of  small  pots  of 
soil.  Put  them  out  in  a  frame  when  they  are  large  enough  to  stand  sun- 
shine. If  planted  outside,  where  they  are  to  flower,  by  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember they  will  make  fairly  strong  crowns  before  cool  weather  sets  in, 
and  in  the  following  Spring  will  bloom  strong  and  vigorous.  Among 
the  red  flowering  kinds  we  have  A.  formosa,  A.  californica,  A.  truncata 
and  A.  canadensis;  in  white  there  are  several,  among  the  best  being  A. 
californica  alba,  A.  flabellata,  a  dwarf-growing  species  with  very  orna- 
mental foliage;  A.  coerulea  alba,  and  A.  vulgaris  alba.  The  best  of  the 
yellows  are  A.  chrysantha  and  A.  c.  flavescens.  In  the  blue-flowered 
forms  there  is  a  large  number  to  choose  from:  A. coerulea  is  a  very  satis- 
factory species;  A.  vulgaris  coerulea,  A.  olympica  are  both  good.  In  A. 
glandulosa  the  sepals  are  blue  and  the  petals  white.  Several  of  the  spe- 
cies and  varieties  are  very  easily  forced  into  bloom,  among  them  A. 
flabellata.  It  is  a  trifle  later  in  coming  into  flower  than  A.  canadensis, 
which  usually  is  in  full  flower  in  this  latitude  by  April  10.    A.  chrys- 


116  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

antha  is  later  in  flowering,  but  a  hybrid  between  it  and  A.  flabellata, 
witii  the  last  named  as  the  seed  parent,  bloomed  this  season  a  week  ahead 
of  A.  canadensis.  The  color  of  this  hybrid  is  a  little  puzzling;  there  are 
several  dozen  plants  andnot  a  single  specimen  is  different  from  the  others. 
The  petals  are  yellow,  the  spurs  of  which  are  the  same  color  as  the 
sepals — deep  purplish  blue.  All  of  the  plants  are  quite  dwarf,  resem- 
bling A.  flabellata  in  this  respect.  The  Aquilegias  have  a  habit  of  dying 
out  after  the  second  and  third  year.  Any  species  v^hich  it  is  desired  to 
increase  in  the  absence  of  seeds  should  be  lifted,  divided  and  replanted 
early  in  the  Fall,  so  that  the  pieces  may  have  a  chance  to  become  estab- 
lished before  Winter. 

ARABIS  (Rock  Cress)— Many  of  the  species  of  Rock  Cress  are  of  no 
horticultural  value  and  are  seldom  seen  outside  of  botanical  collections. 
Three  of  them,  however,  are  among  the  most  desirable  of  Spring  flower- 
ing plants,  and  may  be  found  in  nearly  every  garden  of  any  size.  They 
are  A.  albida,  A.  lucida  and  A.  alpina.  A.  albida  is  the  best  knovsrn;  it 
forms  a  dense  carpet,  the  stems  being  long  and  wiry,  with  dense  rosettes 
of  leaves  at  the  ends.  The  flowers,  which  are  pure  white,  are  borne  in 
great  profusion,  almost  hiding  the  foliage.  A.  alpina  is  not  such  a  free 
grower,  but  is  equally  suitable  for  rockwork,  especially  the  variegated 
form.  A.  lucida  is  dwarfer  than  the  other  two;  this  has  also  a  varie- 
gated form  which,  like  the  variety  of  A.  alpina,  should  not  be  allowed 
to  flower.  The  variegated  varieties  should  be  propagated  by  division, 
or  by  cuttings  put  in  early  in  the  season.  The  green-leaved  kinds  are 
best  raised  from  seeds,  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for 
Aubrietia. 

ARALIA  (Fatsia)  PAPYRIFERA  is  the  rice  paper  plant  of  the  Chinese. 
It  is  one  of  the  noblest  plants  in  cultivation  for  sub-tropical  effects.  The 
leaves  are  palmately  divided,  supported  by  strong  stalks  from  a  stout 
central  stem.  The  whole  plant  has  a  grayish  cast  to  it.  In  the  North- 
ern States  it  stands  the  Winter  if  the  crowns  are  protected  with  some 
rough  material.  In  a  single  season  strong  crowns  will  grow  8  or  10  feet 
high.  It  is  propagated  by  cutting  up  the  rhizome-like  roots  into  pieces 
about  3  inches  long  and  covering  them  with  moss  or  sand.  Keep  the 
boxes  containing  the  roots  in  a  cool  frame  all  Winter,  introducing  them 
into  a  little  heat  early  in  the  Spring  so  as  to  have  the  plants  large 
enough  to  plant  out  by  the  middle  of  May.  The  flower  is  not  the  least 
attractive  part  of  the  plant.  In  the  Southern  States  the  plant  is  in 
bloom  during  the  months  of  September  and  October;  but  in  this  latitude 
it  is  usually  unfolding  when  its  career  is  cut  short  by  cold  weather.  The 
color  is  greenish  white,  the  flowers  being  arranged  in  drooping  panicles 
2  to  3  feet  in  length. 

ARQEMONE  (Devil's  Fig)— Most  of  the  species  grown  in  gardens  are 
of  annual  duration.  They  will  germinate  outdoors  late  in  Spring  and 
develop  very  rapidly  into  flowering  plants.  A.  grandiflora  is  a  peren- 
nial with  white  flowers  3  to  5  inches  in  diameter,  but  not  so  free  in 
blooming  as  the  annual  species.  It  must  be  given  a  position  in  full  sun- 
shine. Seedlings  should  be  pricked  off  into  small  pots  as  soon  as  the 
seed  leaves  are  developed,  as  the  roots  will  not  endure  much  disturbance. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  117 

ARMERIA  (Sea  Pink)— Of  the  Sea  Pinks  A.  vulgaris  is  the  best  known. 
It  grows  in  dense  low  clumps,  having  narrow  grass-like  leaves.  The 
flowers  are  in  close  heads,  on  scapes  only  a  few  inches  high.  There  are 
numerous  forms  of  this  species,  with  red,  lilac,  deep  pink  and  white 
flowers.  A.  cephalotes  has  much  larger  leaves  than  the  above,  and  the 
flowers,  which  are  deep  rose,  or  crimson,  are  borne  on  very  long  scapes. 
A.  plantaginea  is  intermediate  in  size  between  the  two  first-named  spe- 
cies. The  choicer  varieties  are  best  increased  by  division ;  the  pieces 
should  be  potted  in  sandy  soil  in  the  beginning  of  October  and  kept  in  a 
close  frame  to  encourage  roots.  All  of  the  species  are  best  raised  from 
seed.  Sow  late  in  Autumn,  in  a  cool  house,  prick  off  the  seedlings  and 
remove  to  a  cold  frame  early  to  thoroughly  harden  off.  In  this  section 
we  put  out  plants  of  this  class  in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  it  is  in  a 
workable  condition,  so  that  they  may  be  well  established  before  the  hot 
weather  arrives. 

ASCLEPIAS  TUBEROSA  (Pleurisy  Root)— One  of  our  most  showy 
flowered  native  herbaceous  plants.  It  is  deep  rooting,  and  is  frequently 
seen  growing  luxuriantly  in  dry  fields  in  positions  fully  exposed  to  the 
sun,  with  the  surrounding  herbage  almost  withered.  It  is  late  in  bloom- 
ing and  valuable  on  this  account.  In  removing  plants  from  their  native 
places  they  should  be  taken  only  after  they  have  completed  growth.  As 
many  of  the  roots  as  possible  should  be  saved,  as  the  species  dislikes 
removal.  Raising  plants  from  seeds  is  the  most  certain  method  of  prop- 
agation. As  they  grow  but  slowly  in  the  seedling  stage  sow  only  a 
few  seeds  in  a  pot  of  rather  firm  soil,  and  allow  the  young  plants  to 
remain  in  these  pots  for  at  least  a  year  before  planting  out.  When  culti- 
vated in  gardens  the  blooming  period  is  longer  than  is  the  case  with 
wild  plants. 

ASPERULA  ODORATA  (Sweet  Woodruff )— A  slender  growing  plant  of 
the  Bedstraw  family  (Rubiaceae,)  with  pure  white  flowers  in  May.  It 
will  succeed  in  clumps  if  given  a  partially  shaded  situation,  but  as  it 
blooms  only  for  a  short  season,  and  the  foliage  is  not  very  attractive, 
it  is  sometimes  grown  in  a  quite  satisfactory  way  in  company  with  other 
plants,  such  as  Vinca  herbacea,  V.  minor,  and  even  with  varieties  of  the 
English  Ivy  when  used  for  covering  ground  among  shrubs  and  under 
trees.  The  flowers  of  the  Woodruff  appearing  among  the  foliage  of  these 
plants  makes  an  exceedingly  pretty  picture.  It  is  propagated  by  divi- 
sion and  from  seeds.  The  leaves,  when  dried,  have  a  very  agreeable 
aromatic  odor. 

ASTER  (nichaelmas  Daisy)— Nearly  a  hundred  species  and  varieties 
of  these  popular  border  plants  are  offered  by  some  of  the  European 
nurserymen.  Many  of  the  plants  are  indispensable  for  the  ornamenta- 
tion of  the  herbaceous  border  in  late  Summer  and  Autumn.  They  are 
all  of  free  growth  and  will  thrive  in  ordinary  garden  soil  without  much 
attention;  but  if  the  soil  be  worked  deep,  and  well  manured  before  plant- 
ing, the  plants  will  show  the  results  of  it  in  the  size  and  number  of 
flowers.  These  asters  are  best  increased  by  division  before  starting  into 
active  growth.  Of  A.  novi-belgii  there  are  numerous  forms,  some  of 
them  only  18  inches  high  and  from  that  ranging  to  a  height  of  6  feet. 


118  HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

The  flowers  are  lavender  or  violet  blue,  rose  and  white;  A.  novse-angliap 
is  one  of  the  best-known  species,  tall  growing,  with  purple  flowers;  its 
variety,  A.  n.-a.  rubra,  bearing  rose-colored  flowers,  should  always  be 
included  in  a  collection.  Other  good  forms  of  this  species  are  A.  n.-a. 
praecox,  crimson  purple;  A.  n.-a.  Woolston,  light  purplish  blue,  and  A. 
n.-a.  pulchellus,  violet  blue. 

ASTILBE  JAPONICA,  usually  known  in  gardens  as  Spiraea  japonica. 
The  Spiraeas  belong  to  the  Rose  famliy,  while  Astilbe  japonica  is  classed 
with  the  Saxifragas,  but  A.  Lemoinei  is  said  to  be  a  hybrid  between  A. 
japonica  and  a  species  of  Aruncus,  which  is  also  a  rosaceous  genus.  If 
this  be  the  case  then  both  plants  must  necessarily  be  closely  related,  and 
if  not  of  the  same  genus  then  they  are  of  the  same  family.  Astilbe  ja- 
ponica is  better  known  as  a  forcing  plant  than  as  a  subject  for  the  hardy 
border.  It  is  best  grown  in  partial  shade,  for  when  in  sunny  places, 
unless  kept  supplied  with  water  during  dry  spells,  the  foliage  is  apt  to 
suffer  before  the  close  of  the  Summer.  There  are  several  fine  varieties. 
A.  j.  compacta  has  more  compact  panicles  than  the  type.  A.  j.  grandi- 
flora  is  larger;  A.  j.  variegata  has  a  yellowish  variegation;  A.  rivularia 
makes  a  splendid  border  plant  in  this  section,  growing  to  a  height  of 
5  feet,  and  blooming  late  in  the  season.  A.  Thunbergii  grows  about  18 
inches  high,  and  is  much  used  as  a  forcing  plant.  In  the  border  it  thrives 
best  in  heavy,  retentive  soil.  All  of  the  species  are  propagated  by  divi- 
sion, in  the  early  Fall. 

AUBRIETIA  DELTOIDEA — A  low-growing,  evergreen  Spring-flowering 
plant,  forming  dense  cushions  of  growth  and  thickly  studded  with  small, 
purple  flowers  early  in  the  season.  There  are  numerous  forms;  some  of 
the  best  are  A.  d.  Hendersonii,  more  robust  than  the  type,  with  deep 
violet-blue  flowers;  A.  d.  Eyrei,  a  free-growing  form,  and  A.  d.  grapca,  a 
large  light-purple  flowered  variety.  Aubrietias  are  well  adapted  for 
rockwork  culture,  as  they  like  well-drained  situations  and  ratLier  light 
loamy  soil.  They  will  stand  full  sunshine.  The  readiest  means  of  prop- 
agation is  by  seed  which  may  be  sown  early  enough  to  have  the  seed- 
lings established  before  freezing  weather;  or,  the  old  plants  may  be 
divided  and  potted  in  sandy  soil,  keeping  them  in  a  frame  during  Winter, 
and  planting  out  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit. 

BAPTISIA  PERFOLIATA  is  a  native  of  the  Southern  States,  and  is  but 
seldom  seen  in  cultivation.  Owing  to  its  beautifully  arranged  perfoUate 
leaves  it  forms  a  striking  object  in  the  herbaceous  border.  In  Washing- 
ton it  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  ripens  an  abundance  of  seed  yearly.  They 
are  sown  soon  as  gathered;  kept  in  a  cold  frame  they  germinate  the  fol- 
lowing Spring.  B.  australis  grows  from  3  to  6  feet  high;  the  flowers 
are  blue.  It  seems  to  do  best  in  deep  sandy  soil.  Raised  from  seed.  B. 
alba  and  B.  leucantha  are  white-flowered  species. 

BEGONIA  EVANSIANA— This,  the  hardiest  of  the  Begonias,  is  also 
known  as  B.  discolor  and  B,  grandis.  It  is  a  native  of  China,  Japan 
and  Java.  It  is  one  of  the  species  which  form  bulbils,  or  resting  buds, 
in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  These  bulbils,  when  ripe,  fall  to  the  ground, 
and  it  is  from  them  that  the  young  plants  grow  late  in  the  following 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  119 

Spring.  They  come  safely  through  a  temperature  of  several  degrees  be- 
low zero,  but  just  how  much  cold  they  will  stand  I  am  unable  to  state. 
The  plants  thrive  best  in  the  shade  of  dwellings,  or  anywhere  except 
under  the  shade  of  trees,  and  in  positions  where  direct  sunlight  reaches 
them  during  the  middle  of  the  day.  The  bulbils  pass  the  Winter  success- 
fully fully  exposed  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  but  precautions  must  be 
taken  to  provide  against  rapid  thawing  and  freezing.  When  the  bulbils 
are  left  to  themselves  they  usually  sprout  too  thickly  together.  The 
weaker  plants  should  therefore  be  thinned  out,  to  give  those  which  are 
left  full  opportunity  to  develop,  otherwise  their  period  of  blooming  will 
be  short.  To  have  plants  early  in  bloom  the  bulbils  may  be  harvested 
shortly  after  the  plants  are  done  blooming,  kept  during  the  Winter  in 
a  bottle  and  sown  in  time  to  have  the  plants  in  3-inch  pots  by  the  mid- 
dle of  May.  Notwithstanding  the  manj-  fine  varieties  of  Begonias  for 
bedding,  this  is  one  of  the  best  for  borders  which  get  the  benefit  of  full 
light  from  the  north. 

BOCCONIA  CORDATA  (Plume  Poppy)— Probably  the  most  imposing 
in  appearance  of  all  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  making  growths  of  from 
6  to  10  feet  high.  The  plant  has  a  grayish  green  appearance.  The 
leaves  are  large  and  much  cut  up,  or  lobed.  The  flowers,  borne  in  large 
terminal  panicles,  are  not  showy,  but  they  harmonize  grandly  with  the 
foliage.  The  plant  is  well  fitted  for  isolated  positions  on  lawns,  among 
shrubs,  or  for  large  herbaceous  borders.  While  thriving  best  in  deeply 
worked,  fairly  rich  soil  it  will  succeed  in  stiff  and  poor  ground.  Seeds, 
of  which  a  medium-sized  plant  will  produce  large  numbers,  are  best  for 
propagating  in  large  quantities.  They  should  be  germinated  in  April 
and  the  seedlings  potted  off  when  small.  The  plant  is  also  increased 
from  suckers,  which  are  produced  in  abundance.  It  is  a  native  of  China 
and  Japan,  and  very  hardy. 

CALLIRHOE — A  genus  belonging  to  the  same  family  as  the  Abutilon 
(Malvaceae).  C.  involucrata,  the  most  useful  species,  has  long,  trailing 
stems,  with  fair-sized  purplish  red  flowers  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  It 
spreads  very  rapidly  during  the  Summer  months.  A  good  subject  for 
borders  of  moderate  width.  It  should  be  propagated  from  seed.  Old 
plants  need  to  be  frequently  renewed,  as  they  seem  to  exhaust  them- 
selves, probably  owing  to  their  rampant  growth.  In  C.i.linearifolia  the 
leaves  are  smaller — a  good  form  for  the  rockery. 

CAMPANULA  (Bellf lower)— The  perennial  species  are  nearly  all  desira- 
ble border  or  rockwork  plants,  but  a  few  of  them  become  troublesome 
by  increasing  too  fast.  C.  rapunculoides,  when  once  it  becomes  estab- 
lished on  rockwork,  is  sometimes  very  difficult  to  keep  under  control. 
None  of  the  kinds  usually  grown  is  hard  to  manage  thriving  in  ordinary 
garden  soil.  They  are  propagated  most  freely  from  seeds.  The  best 
time  for  the  operation  is  in  late  Summer,  wintering  the  seedlings  in 
frames  so  that  the  plants  may  be  in  good  condition  for  planting  out 
early  the  following  Spring.  C.  persicifolia  and  its  forms  are  easily  in- 
creased by  division,  which  should  be  done  after  the  flowering  season. 
The  species  in  cultivation  range  in  height  from  2  or  3  inches  to  several 
feet;  but  the  rare  dwarf  kinds  are  seldom  seen  in  America,  nor  do  they 


120  HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

succeed  so  well  here  as  they  do  in  the  cool,  moist  countries  of  Europe. 
Of  the  tall  growing  border  kinds  C.  alliarigefoha  reaches  a  height  of  from 
2  to  3  feet;  flowers  white.  C.  medium,  the  Canterbury  Bell,  is  a  biennial 
which,  raised  from  seed  one  year,  will  flower  the  next.  C.  m.  calycan- 
thema  has  the  calyx  colored  like  the  corolla,  forming  the  well-known 
cup  and  saucer  arrangement.  C.  pyramidalis,  although  a  perennial,  is 
best  treated  as  a  biennial.  In  a  young  state  it  should  be  given  the  pro- 
tection of  a  frame  during  Winter,  and  if  theplants  are  raised  from  Spring 
sown  seed  they  ought  to  be  large  enough  to  Winter  in  5-inch  pots.  A 
few  should  be  kept  for  flowering  in  pots,  as  they  make  exceedingly  hand- 
some subjects  for  the  decoration  of  the  conservatory  in  Summer.  C. 
persicifolia  is  the  most  useful  florists'  flower  in  the  genus.  C.  p.  alba 
grandiflora  has  very  large  pure  white  flowers.  C.  p.  alba  coronata  pro- 
duces white  cup  and  saucer-shaped  flowers.  C.  p.  alba-plena  is  double 
white,  and  while  it  lasts  it  is  one  of  the  best  Summer  white-flowering 
plants.  There  are  also  single  and  double  blue-flowered  forms.  All  of 
them  grow  about  2i/^  feet  high.  Plants  which  remain  in  the  ground 
over  Winter  will  be  benefited  by  a  mulching  around  the  crowns— of  leaf 
soil  mixed  with  short  manure.  Of  C.  Trachelium  there  are  double  blue 
and  white-flowered  varieties;  height  about  2i/^  feet.  C.  grandis  and  C. 
g.  alba  are  both  good;  height  3  feet.  C.  Van  Houttei,  a  hybrid  form 
with  dark  blue  flowers,  grows  about  2  feet  high.  Among  the  many 
dwarf  species  C.  isophylla  and  C.  i.  alba,  blue  and  white,  are  trailers, 
and  where  they  succeed  they  may  be  used  in  baskets  and  vases,  but  they 
do  not  thrive  in  very  dry  soil.  C.  carpatica  is  probably  the  most  popu- 
lar of  the  dwarfs;  it  is  a  plant  which  throws  up  a  great  number  of 
stems,  forming  a  dense  mound  of  compact  growth  usually  about  a  foot 
high,  and  when  in  full  flower  it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  hardy 
perennials.  There  are  several  forms  having  blue,  pale  blue,  lilac  and 
white  flowers.  C.  c.  turbinata  is  dwarfer  than  the  type;  very  suitable 
for  the  front  part  of  an  herbaceous  border,  or  for  the  rockery.  C.  rotun- 
difoHa  is  rather  an  attractive  species,  but  as  a  garden  form  C.  r.  Hostii 
is  an  improvement. 

CATANANCHE  CCERULEA— A  plant  with  grayish  green,  long,  narrow 
leaves,  and  blue  or  blue  and  white  flowers  borne  on  long  slender  stalks. 
It  is  of  the  easiest  cultivation,  and  a  desirable  herbaceous  plant.  Sow 
seeds  late  in  the  Fall  and  keep  indoors;  they  will  germinate  very  early. 
Prick  off  into  boxes  and  remove  to  a  cold  frame  when  large  enough. 

CENTAUREA— Of  this  genus  C.  cyanus  is  the  Cornflower  and  C.  mos- 
chata  the  Sweet  Sultan.  Both  are  annual  in* duration.  Seeds  will  ger- 
minate in  the  open  ground.  C.  americana  is  another  good  annual  species 
which  is  sometimes  grown  for  Summer  cut  flowers;  the  color  is  pale 
rose.  C.  babylonica  is  a  good  species  to  plant  in  the  back  part  of  an 
herbaceous  border;  the  foliage  is  silvery  white;  flowers  thistle-like, 
bright  yellow.  The  plant  reaches  a  height  of  from  6  to  12  feet.  Increased 
by  division  during  the  latter  part  of  March.  C.  montana  is  the  peren- 
nial Cornflower,  blooming  during  the  greater  part  of  Summer.  There 
are  forms  with  lilac,  rose,  red,  white  and  sulphur  colored  flowers. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  I2l 

CERASTIUM  BIEBERSTEINII— A  dwarf  plant  with  a  dense  mass  of 
growths;  flowers  pure  white:  in  bloom  during  May.  The  leaves  are 
very  woolly,  giving  the  plant  a  whitish  appearance  all  the  year  round. 
It  stands  our  hot  Summers  better  even  than  the  well-known  C.  tomen- 
tosum  (Snow  in  Summer.)  This  is  a  species  with  smaller  and  lighter 
colored  foliage.  Both  are  used  for  edging  in  beds  or  borders.  The 
plants  may  be  divided  very  early  in  the  season  with  or  without  roots 
and  replanted  with  long  stems,  deep  in  the  soil,  well  firmed,  and  kept 
moist  until  they  begin  to  grow.  C.  Biebersteinii  is  easily  raised  from 
seeds.  C.  grandiflora  is  a  green-leaved  species  well  adapted  for  growing 
in  dense  carpet-like  masses  over  rocks. 

CHEIRANTHUS  CHEIRI  (Wallflower)— A  plant  much  grown  in  Europe, 
where  the  climate  is  very  favorable  to  its  perfect  development.  In  the 
warmer  parts  of  America  its  period  of  blooming  is  but  a  short  one.  The 
seeds  are  sown  in  April,  and  as  soon  as  large  enough  the  seedlings  are 
planted  out  where  they  are  to  flower  the  following  Spring.  There  are 
many  fine  double  forms,  some  of  which  have  varietal  names.  Double 
flowering  kinds  can  be  raised  from  seed.  The  colors  of  the  flowers  are 
yellow,  and  reddish  brown. 

CHELIDONIUM  MAJUS  FLORE=PLENO  (Double  Celandine)— A  reliable 

plant  for  half-shaded  positions  in  woods.  It  is  especially  at  home 
among  damp  rocks,  growing  in  vegetable  humus.  In  such  positions  it 
will  reproduce  itself  from  seeds.  The  double  form  is  smaller  growing 
than  the  single-flowered  plant.  The  foliage  of  both  has  a  bright  green 
appearance  for  the^greater  part  of  the  Summer. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

For  nearly  ten  months  out  of  the  twelve  Chrysanthemums  are  so 
little  seen  that  when  the  flowers  are  in  season  they  are  eagerly  welcomed 
by  the  flower-buying  public  as  a  change  from  the  blossoms  of  Spring 
and  Summer.  There  may  be  a  change  from  the  stiff  and  artificial  look- 
ing flower,  which  is  grown  on  single  stems,  to  the  more  natural  looking 
spray  with  smaller  flowers;  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the  Queen  of 
Autumn  will  remain  popular  in  some  shape  or  other  for  a  long  time  to 
come.  Within  the  last  ten  years  the  cutlivation  of  this  flower  has  made 
rapid  strides.  The  size  of  the  blooms  is  due  to  this  improved  cultiva- 
tion quite  as  much  as  to  an  improvement  in  the  varieties  by  selection  of 
sports  and  cross  breeding  during  that  time.  Many  good  kinds  have 
been  raised,  but  these  kinds,  when  grown  according  to  old  methods,  do 
not  show  the  wonderful  improvement  that  is  claimed  for  them.  Indoor 
bench  culture  and  growing  one  flower  to  a  plant  is  the  means  by  which 
the  flowers  are  developed  to  their  utmost  size. 

Stock  Plants— Selected  roots  for  this  purpose  should  be  heeled  in  on 
the  bench  of  a  house  where  they  can  be  kept  cool;  a  temperature  high 
enough  to  keep  out  frost  is  best.  If  such  accommodation  can  not  be 
spared  the  next  best  place  is  a  frame  around  which  stable  bedding  is 


122  BARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

banked  up  level  with  the  sash.  Give  abundance  of  ventilation  in  favor- 
able weather  and  cover  the  sash  when  there  is  danger  to  the  plants  from 
frost. 

Propagating  for  General  Crop — The  ideal  months  for  this  operation 
are  April  and  May,  as  then  the  cuttings  are  in  good  condition  and  the 
temperature  is  not  too  high  to  make  the  operation  a  difficult  one.  For 
cutting  material  the  moderately  thick  shoots  should  be  chosen,  avoid- 
ing those  which  are  very  succulent,  or  those  which  are  weak  and  show 
long  spaces  between  the  leaf  joints.  The  short,  stocky,  soft  growths  are 
best,  and  should  be  preferred  to  all  others.  The  early-flowered  kinds 
should  be  given  attention  first.  Put  the  cuttings  in  the  sand  bed,  and 
during  the  rooting  process  a  high  temperature  with  a  stagnant  atmos- 
phere should  be  avoided.  When  the  roots  are  from  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  long  the  cuttings  should  be  potted,  as  their  roots 
weaken  by  a  longer  stay  in  the  sand.  Put  in  thumb  pots,  using  soil  a 
little  lighter  than  the  regular  potting  compost  and  obtained  by  adding 
a  small  quantity  of  leaf  soil.  In  this  stage  keep  them  in  the  same  tem- 
perature as  that  in  which  they  were  rooted  until  their  roots  show 
through  the  ball  of  soil.  They  should  then  be  removed  to  a  cold  frame, 
standing  them  on  a  bottom  of  sifted  ashes.  As  soon  as  the  plants  show 
signs  of  needing  a  shift  they  should  be  put  iu  3-inch  pots,  and  as  a  pre- 
caution against  hardening  of  the  stems  they  should  be  plunged  in  the 
ashes,  and  during  excessively  warm  weather  some  leaf  soil  should  be 
thrown  over  the  tops  of  the  pots  to  help  in  keeping  the  roots  cool. 
Planting  may  be  proceeded  with  by  the  beginning  of  June  for  the  early 
flowering  varieties,  taking  care  that  the  plants  are  well  watered  before 
being  knocked  out  of  their  pots. 

Late  Flowering  Plants— To  extend  the  season  of  some  of  the  latest 
flowering  varieties  till  Christmas  the  cuttings  should  be  taken  late,  and 
as  soon  as  rooted  keep  them  in  a  growing  condition  to  prevent  the 
wood  getting  hard.  Growing  points  of  previously  potted  cuttings  make 
good  wood,  if  they  can  be  kept  from  wilting  during  the  rooting  process; 
but  this  operation  is  somewhat  difficult  after  the  middle  of  July.  Too 
much  shade  will  cause  damping  and  too  little  favors  wilting,  so  close 
observation  will  be  necessary  to  hit  the  exact  conditions.  The  single- 
leaf  cuttings  are  easiest  to  root  at  this  season.  If  the  sand  be  rough 
grained  and  free  from  foreign  material,  have  the  leaf  with  the  under  sur- 
face lying  flat  on  the  sand.  Keep  the  plants  shaded  for  some  time  after 
they  are  planted  out.  Very  short  stems  are  only  avoided  by  supplying 
conditions  favorable  to  growth. 

Selecting  the  Bud — There  are  two  kinds  of  buds,  known  as  "crown" 
and  "terminal."  Thecrowubud  appears  directly  on  the  end  of  theshoot, 
and  is  naturally  the  first  seen.  In  some  varieties,  particularly  the  early 
ones,  this  is  the  proper  bud  to  select  to  develop  into  a  flower,  but  in 
some  well-known  kinds  growers  do  not  agree  as  to  which  is  the  proper 
bud  to  select.  There  is  no  doubt,  however,  that  with  some  soils,  also 
under  certain  cultural  methods,  the  proper  bud  to  "  take"  under  those 
conditions  would  be  the  wrong  one  under  others.  The  terminal  bud 
shoots  are  usually  three  in  number  and  develop  from  the  axils  of  the 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  123 

leaves  below  the  crown  bud.  One  of  these  bud  shoots  is  allowed  to 
remain  when  a  terminal  bud  is  selected,  and  the  other  two  pinched  off 
together  with  the  crown  bud.  The  terminal  bud  is  the  one  selected  in 
the  large  majority  of  varieties;  it  consists  of  the  end  bud,  or  that  which 
terminates  the  selected  lateral  shoot.  Other  buds  will,  in  course  of  time, 
appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  of  this  shoot;  these  must  also  be 
removed. 

Specimen  Plants— These  are  not  grown  so  much  as  they  were  a  few 
years  ago,  owing  to  the  demand  for  pot  plants  beyond  a  certain  size 
being  very  limited.  Plants  which  can  be  sold  at  a  moderate  figure  give 
the  best  results,  and  for  this  purpose  they  can  be  grown  with  very  little 
attention,  compared  with  pot-grown  specimens,  if  they  be  planted  out 
in  the  field,  and  attention  given  them  occasionally  during  dry  weather 
with  water  and  the  cultivator.  Pinch  to  produce  bushy  plants.  The 
number  of  times  that  pinching  should  be  done  must  be  governed  by  the 
kind  of  plant  wanted;  if  only  a  few  stems  one  pinching  may  be  sufficient. 
In  September  the  plants  should  be  transferred  to  suitable  sized  pots.  If 
protected  from  the  sun  and  given  a  moist  atmosphere  for  a  few  days 
after  the  transfer  they  will  show  no  bad  results.  Plants  for  pots  are 
also  grown  on  benches  which  have  been  occupied  during  the  Winter  by 
Carnations.  They  are  lifted  and  potted  in  time  so  as  not  to  interfere 
with  the  housing  of  field-grown  plants  of  Carnations.  In  either  case 
May  is  early  enough  to  start  the  plants.  Specimen  plants  of  the  largest 
size  are  started  from  cuttings  as  early  as  December,  and  from  that  time 
on  till  the  end  of  January.  The  cuttings  should  be  fairly  strong,  and 
either  put  separately  in  thumb  pots  or  rooted  in  the  sand  bed.  The 
plants  must  never  be  allowed  to  go  to  rest,  and  should  be  kept  in  healthy 
vigor  from  the  start.  During  the  Winter  a  position  near  the  glass,  in  a 
house  running  north  and  south,  suits  them  well.  The  best  plants  are 
grown  in  the  house  from  start  to  finish;  but  in  this  case  they  take  a 
large  amount  of  space. 

Soil— The  Chrysanthemum  is  not  fastidious  as  to  soil,  but  being  a 
gross  feeder  at  least  one-fourth  of  the  bulk  of  the  soil  should  be  of  well- 
rotted  cow  manure,  the  remainder,  loam.  Four  or  five  inches  in  depth 
for  benches  is  sufficient,  and  before  the  plants  are  put  in  position  it  is 
made  firm  by  tramping,  or,  in  the  case  of  side  benches,  by  pounding 
with  a  brick.  If  the  soil  is  dry,  give  a  good  watering  a  day  or  two  be- 
fore planting.  Syringing  should  be  practiced  several  times  daily  while 
the  plants  are  growing;  this,  together  with  full  ventilation,  will  provide 
perfect  atmospheric  conditions.  Watering  should  not  be  overdone  at 
any  time;  the  condition  of  the  surface  soil  will  readily  suggest  when  the 
operation  is  necessary. 

Ventilation— This  is  a  very  essential  item  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
Chrysanthemum  indoors.  To  one  unacquainted  with  the  exact  atmos- 
pheric conditions  under  which  the  best  flowers  are  grown  in  a  green- 
house, it  would  seem  somewhat  strange  that  a  hardy  herbaceous  plant 
should  be  cooped  up  in  a  hothouse  all  Summer;  but  this  is  far  from  being 
the  case,  because  with  abundant  ventilation  top  and  bottom,  and  fre- 
quent syringing,  the  house  is  kept  in  a  more  favorable  state  for  their 


124  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

growth  than  one  would  imagine;  and  in  the  absence  of  sun  the  condi- 
tions are  much  more  favorable  than  outdoors.  If  there  are  no  means  of 
side  ventilation  provided,  panes  of  glass  should  be  removed  to  let  in  all 
the  air  possible.    The  doors  should  also  be  kept  open. 

Insects— The  number  of  kinds  which  are  troublesome  are  small,  but 
their  representatives  are  numerous  enough.  There  are  several  species  of 
Aphis,  which  attack  the  young  shoots;  these  pests  must  be  combated 
with  tobacco  in  any  of  its  forms.  Grasshoppers  are  also  troublesome, 
and  they  must  be  attended  to  individually.  Caterpillars  are  best  pre- 
vented from  appearing  by  catching  the  perfect  insects  in  the  shape  of 
moths  and  butterflies  as  they  appear  in  the  house.  When  the  eggs  hatch 
hand  picking  is  the  only  efficacious  means  of  ridding  the  plants  of  the 
caterpillars. 

Types  or  Races— The  varieties  common  in  gardens  are  divided  into  nu- 
merous types.  The  principal  ones  are  as  follows:  Anemone  Type;  this 
has  the  flowers  single  (all  Chrysanthemums  have  single  flowers,  but  the 
so-called  single  flowers  have  the  outer  florets  as  they  grow  in  a  natural 
state;  that  is,  having  long  strap-shaped  or  tubular  florets,  usually  called 
ray  florets;  the  inner  ones  are  shorter,  more  or  less  bell-shaped, yellow 
in  color,  and  are  known  as  disc  florets),  with  the  disc  florets  raised  in 
the  center.  They  are  regarded  more  as  ornamental  garden  plants.  The 
Pompon  Type  is  not  grown  to  the  same  extent  in  America  as  in  Europe, 
where  they  are  principally  used  out-of-doors  for  early  flowering.  The 
Chinese  Incurved  Type  is  much  grown  as  a  flowering  plant  indoors. 
The  florets  curl  gradually  toward  the  center  of  the  flower,  forming  a 
globular  head.  The  Japanese  Incurved  Type  is  less  incurved  than  the 
preceding,  but  few  authorities  agree  as  to  where  the  line  should  be 
drawn.  The  Reflexed  Type,  as  commonly  understood,  has  the  florets 
pointing  away  from  the  center  of  the  flower  head,  or,  as  the  word  would 
indicate,  curled  in  the  opposite  direction  to  those  of  the  incurved  varie- 
ties. The  Japanese  Types  include  the  tubular  and  quilled  varieties,  but 
the  boundaries  of  this  type  are  also  continually  shifting. 

Varieties— It  would  be  useless  to  recommend  a  list  for  any  particular 
locality.  Soils  differ  to  such  an  extent  that  those  which  thrive  in  one 
place  may  not  turn  out  the  same  in  another.  Again,  much  depends  on 
the  customers  as  to  predilection  in  color,  etc.  Careful  observation  will 
quickly  suggest  the  best  kinds  to  grow.  Cultivators  are  usually  loath 
to  discard  a  good  sort,  even  though  it  is  an  old  one.  Many  of  the  kinds 
grown  in  England  to-day  originated  20  years  ago;  and  in  this  country 
many  growers  could  not  fill  the  places  occupied  by  some  of  the  kinds 
they  grew,  which  were  raised  early  in  the  nineties. 

Raising  New  Varieties— There  is  nothing  to  hinder  anyone  from  rais- 
ing new  varieties.  The  operation  is  of  the  simplest,  and  may  be  accom- 
plished as  successfully  by  the  beginner  as  by  those  who  have  been 
engaged  at  it  for  years.  Seedling  raising  is  simply  chance  work.  To 
go  about  the  work  take  two  good  flowers  of  the  same  color,  which  for 
some  reason  are  desirable  to  blend,  shorten  the  ray  florets  so  as  to  have 
the  stigmas  readily  accessible.    Transfer  the  pollen  from  the  anthers  of 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  125 

one  flower  to  the  stigma  of  the  other.  Carefully  keep  them  in  a  dry 
atmosphere  until  the  seeds  are  ripe.  Keep  the  seeds  in  paper,  properly 
labeled  as  to  parentage,  then  about  the  middle  of  March  they  can  be 
sown.  The  resulting  seedlings  will  be  almost  certain  to  give  some 
flowers  passably  good,  probably  some  as  good  as  the  parents,  and  pos- 
sibly some  even  better.  A  great  deal  depends  upon  selecting  the  parents; 
but  rules  for  this  cannot  be  laid  down,  as  the  selection  of  apparently 
unpromising  parents  will  sometimes  give  good  results,  showing  tha : 
the  crossing  of  plants  is  little  more  than  guess  work. 

Other  Species  of  Chrysanthemum  well  worth  growing  are  C.  ullgino- 
sum,  a  tall  growing  plant,  with  large  white  flowers;  very  useful  for  cut- 
ting. It  blooms  late  and  must  have  a  deeply  worked,  rich,  moist  soil  to 
bring  the  flowers  to  perfection.  If  planted  in  dry  soil  it  remains  dwarf 
and  unattractive.  C.  coccineum  is  better  known  as  Pyrethrum  roseum; 
an  early  Summer  blooming  species,  well  worthy  of  extended  culture. 
Hundreds  of  varieties  of  it  are  in  cultivation.  It  is  not  a  difl3cult  plant 
to  manage,  thriving  in  well-drained  borders;  or  on  rockwork  the  plants 
are  thoroughly  at  home.  They  are  well  suited  for  providing  flowers  for 
cutting.  There  are  double  forms  in  white,  pink,  carmine,  rose,  lilac  and 
yellow.  They  are  increased  in  Spring  by  dividing  the  plants  into  small 
pieces,  and  rooting  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  cool  house  before  potting.  C. 
leucanthemum  is  the  Ox-eye  Daisy  of  the  meadows.  C.  parthenifolium 
aureum  is  the  Golden  Feather,  used  in  filling  beds  or  for  borders  in  Sum- 
mer. It  is  a  hardy  plant,  putting  on  its  gayest  colors  early  in  the  sea- 
son; but  it  is  more  satisfactory  when  raised  annually  from  seeds. 

CLEriATIS— During  July  and  August  one  of  the  most  useful  plants  for 
producing  white  flowers  is  the  herbaceous  Clematis  known  as  C.  recta. 
It  grows  from  2  to  3  feet  high  and  if  in  deep  rich  soil  the  quantity  of 
flowers  to  a  plant  is  very  large.  In  C.  tubulosa  and  C.  Davidiana  we 
have  two  blue-flowered  species  from  China.  The  last  named  is  fragrant. 
They  are  reliable  plants  for  the  herbaceous  border,  growing  about  2  feet 
high.  They  are  all  increased  from  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  gathered;  also 
from  division  of  the  crowns,  and  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  plants  be- 
fore coming  into  flower. 

COREOPSIS— C.  lanceolata  and  C.  grandiflora  are  yellow-flowered 
composites,  much  used  for  Summer  cut  flowers.  Old  plants  may  be 
divided,  but  they  are  best  raised  from  seeds,  and  the  young  plants  put 
out  early  where  they  are  to  bloom.  C.  verticillata  is  of  little  service  for 
cutting,  but  owing  to  the  finely  divided  foliage  it  is  a  desirable  border 
plant.    Easily  increased  by  division. 

DELPHINlUn  (Larkspur)— The  species  are  numerous,  most  of  them 
being  choice  border  perennials  requiring  deep,  rich  soil.  They  are  propa- 
gated principally  by  cuttings  of  the  young  growths  in  early  Spring  from 
seeds  sown  about  the  beginning  of  March,  and  by  division  of  the  roots 
when  dormant  in  Autumn  or  late  Winter.  D.  grandiflorum  and  D. 
formosum  have  numerous  fine  varieties,  which  are  much  grown  for  cut 
flowers. 


126  HARDY    PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

DIANTHUS— Carnation  Pink. 

There  are  nearly  a  hundred  distinct  species,  many  of  which  are  in  cul- 
tivation. Most  of  them  are  desirable  as  border  or  rockery  plants.  They 
usually  make  dense  tufts  of  grassy-like  growths.  Nearly  all  have  attrac- 
tive flowers.  D.  alpinus  and  D.  glacialis  are  true  Alpine  plants,  seldom 
seen  in  cultivation,  and  thriving  indifferently.  D.  barbatus  is  the  Sweet 
William.  There  are  innumerable  forms  in  cultivation.  Good  strains  are 
secured  from  seed.  D.  c^esius  (Cheddar  Pink)  stands  our  hot  Summers 
well— a  useful  speciesfor  the  rockery.  D.  deltoides  and  D.d.alba  (Maiden 
Pink),  should  be  raised  indoors  during  the  Autumn  months  and  planted 
out  early.  A  very  free  blooming  species,  D.  petraeus  (Rock  Pink),  grows 
about  6  inches  high.  D.  plumarius  is  the  parent  of  the  garden  Pinks,  of 
which  there  are  many  named  double  sorts  in  cultivation.  They  are  prop- 
agated by  cuttings  taken  in  the  Fall;  they  root  very  readily  in  cold 
frames.  Care  must  be  taken  to  plant  them  out  before  they  start  into 
growth  in  the  Spring.  C.  chinensis,  the  Chinese  Pink,  is  a  biennial,  and 
to  have  it  at  its  best  it  should  be  treated  as  such  instead  of  as  an  annual. 
When  sown  in  Spring  the  plants  will  flower  during  Summer,  but  not 
nearly  as  abundantly  as  from  Autumn-raised  plants.  The  varieties  from 
this  species  are  numerous;  all  of  the  kinds  are  desirable,  making  very 
handsome  border  plants  of  moderate  size. 

DIANTHUS  CARYOPHYLLUS. 

This  is  the  species  from  which  the  Carnation  of  to-day  has  sprung. 
Variation  in  the  flowers,  the  result  of  continuous  cultivation  under  arti- 
ficial and  highly  favorable  circumstances,  produced  in  the  first  place, 
well  marked  varieties;  these  variations  were  perpetuated  by  cuttings, 
and  from  them  by  means  of  cross-breeding  and  from  sports  distinct 
races  have  been  evolved,  gradually  showing  a  wider  range  of  color  and 
habit.  In  America  the  climatic  conditions  are  peculiarly  favorable  for 
the  'development  of  the  flower  under  glass,  and  little  by  little  a  race  has 
been  obtained  perfectly  adapted  to  Winter  production  of  bloom.  Not 
many  years  have  elapsed  since  the  best  cultivators  of  plants  would  have 
predicted  a  short  life  for  the  Carnation  raised  under  glass,  and  this 
would  probably  be  the  case  were  its  entire  life,  or  rather  the  lives  of 
several  generations,  spent  in  this  way.  But  the  utmost  vigor  in  imparted 
to  the  plants  shortly  after  the  cutting  stage  is  passed  by  their  cultiva- 
tion out-of-doors  for  the  best  part  of  the  Summer.  Another  very  favora- 
ble means,  which  is  without  doubt  highly  instrumental  in  maintaining 
and  strengthening  the  vigor  of  the  race,  is  the  raising  of  new  varieties 
from  seed.  The  development  of  the  wonderful  blooms  of  to-day,  as  rep- 
resented in  such  varieties  as  Ethel  Crocker,  Mrs.  Lawson,  Genevieve 
Lord,  Mrs.  George  M.  Bradt,  Jubilee,  White  Cloud  and  others  too  numer- 
ous to  mention,  dates  back  only  a  very  few  years,  when  the  blooms 
were  of  very  ordinary  dimensions,  stems  weak  and  calyx  often  imperfect. 
Cultivation  and  environment  have  undoubtedly  to  be  credited  with  part 
of  the  success  attained,  but  judicious  selection  and  rejection  are  the  pri- 
mary agents  which  have  been  instrumental  in  producing  those  results. 


HARDY   PERENNIAL    PLANTS,  127 

Propagating  House  and  Benches— The  ideal  propagating  house  is  the 
north  part  of  a  span-roofed  house,  with  a  partition  of  boards,  leaving 
a  space  of  about  4l^  feet  available  for  bench  and  passage  way.  The 
latter  need  only  be  wide  enough  for  one  to  move  about  in  comfortably. 
The  floor  should  be  made  of  concrete,  so  that  it  can  be  kept  scrupulously 
clean  at  all  times.  The  length  of  the  house  should,  of  course,  vary  with 
the  needs  of  the  establishment.  The  bench  should  run  close  up  to  the 
side  of  the  house  and  the  front  part,  or  that  nearest  the  passageway, 
nailed  up  with  boards,  with  a  swinging  door  on  leather  hinges  every 
few  feet  to  increase  or  diminish  the  temperature  of  the  sand  by  allowing 
heat  to  escape.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  one  of  the  ends  hotter  than 
the  other,  not  necessarily  for  Carnations,  but  for  cuttings  of  other 
plants.  Valves  should  be  so  arranged  in  the  heating  pipes  of  this  part 
of  the  establishment  that  the  heat  may  be  under  perfect  control  to  suit 
the  various  uses  to  which  it  may  be  put.  When  a  specially  constructed 
propagating  house  is  not  available,  a  part  of  an  ordinary  growing 
house,  preferably  the  north  side,  should  be  selected  for  the  purpose.  The 
conditions  favorable  to  the  process  of  rooting  are:  Sufficient  humidity 
to  prevent  the  cuttings  from  wilting,  and  protection  against  the  sun's 
rays,  which  cause  an  evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  leaves  of  the 
cuttings  greater  than  can  be  spared,  owing  to  the  inability  of  the  cut- 
ting to  replace  the  loss  quickly  from  the  moisture  in  the  sand. 

Sand — When  there  is  a  choice,  a  rather  large  grained  sand  and  one  free 
from  all  impurities  should  be  selected;  from  3  to  4  inches  deep  will  be 
sufficient. 

Cuttings— These  may  be  put  in  any  time  during  the  Winter  months, 
but  February  is  the  safest  time  for  the  ordinary  crop.  Those  rooted 
previous  to  that  month  are  apt  to  put  on  a  spindling  growth,  owing 
to  root  accommodation  being  necessarily  of  an  unfavorable  nature. 
Restricted  root  room  has  a  tendency  to  promote  hardening  of  the  stem 
and  firmness  in  the  foliage,  and  while  the  Carnation  is  in  reality  an  ever- 
green shrub,  it  is  a  soft  wooded  one,  and  should  be  kept  in  a  growing 
state  from  the  cutting  to  the  flowering  plant.  The  cuttings  are  usually 
pulled  from  the  plant;  this  is  the  worst  possible  method,  because  the 
exceedingly  dehcate  vessels  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  break 
are  strained  and  displaced,  according  to  the  tension  exerted  in  severing. 
They  strike  all  right,  evidently  so,  but  they  should  be  severed  with  a 
knife. 

flaterial  for  Cuttings — In  this  as  in  other  matters,  judicious  selection 
of  the  material  to  form  future  plants  will  go  a  long  way  in  determining 
whether  these  plants  will  attain  the  maximum  state  in  healthy  vigor, 
combined  with  flower  productiveness.  It  does  not  take  a  very  exijeri- 
enced  Carnationist  to  tell  at  a  glance  whether  the  growths  are  flabby, 
as  a  result  of  being  forced  in  too  high  and  humid  an  atmosphere,  or  crisp 
and  stocky,  owing  to  having  been  subjected  to  favorable  conditions. 
Grassy  growths  at  the  base  of  the  plant  are  avoided,  as  they  show  a 
tendency  to  perpetuate  this  condition  to  a  degree  unfavorable  to  florifer- 
ousness.  As  the  extra  floriferous  nature  of  a  single  branch  of  a  tree  or 
shrub  can  be  perpetuated  by  propagating  from  that  branch,  in  like  man- 


128  HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

ner  the  best  material  for  cuttings  is  formed  on  the  flowering  branches  of 
the  Carnation.  They  are  found  in  the  axils  of  the  older  leaves,  and 
should  be  taken  when  they  are  from  two  2  to  3  inches  long. 

Treatment  During  Rooting— The  leaves  of  the  cuttings  are  sometimes 
shortened  back  at  the  tips,  but  this  is  immaterial,  and  the  practice  has 
arisen  probably  through  a  desire  to  have  the  batch  look  uniform  in  size 
and  to  economize  space.  Each  cutting  should  be  dibbled  in  by  itself,  to 
insure  perfect  rooting  conditions;  but  by  making  a  cut  in  the  sand  with 
a  small,  flat  trowel,  guided  by  a  narrow  strip  of  wood  placed  and  held 
firmly  against  the  last  row  of  cuttings  (this  precaution  will  prevent  the 
loosening  of  the  sand  next  the  cuttings  by  the  action  of  the  trowel),  the 
operation  is  hastened.  The  temperature  should  be  from  50  to  55  de- 
grees at  first,  increasing  to  60  degrees  later  on.  After  rooting  has  com- 
menced examine  the  cuttings  so  that  potting  or  boxing  may  be  completed 
before  the  roots  get  weak  in  the  sand.  It  may  safely  be  commenced, 
when  the  roots  are  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long,  and  finished  before 
they  are  over  I14  inches.  After  the  cuttings  are  potted,  or  boxed,  keep 
them  shaded  for  a  time,  gradually  giving  them  the  benefit  of  full  sun- 
shine and  an  abundance  of  air.  Before  planting  out  time  they  should  be 
removed  to  a  cool  frame.  The  soil  may  be  made  up  of  loam,  leaf  mould 
and  sand. 

Planting  in  the  Field— In  this  locahty  the  plants  are  safe  out  in  the 
field  by  the  end  of  March,  but  climatic  conditions  are  the  only  safe  guide 
for  different  localities.  The  ground  is  previously  prepared  by  manuring, 
and  plowing  and  harrowing,  and  the^  plants  set  out  15  inches  apart 
each  way,  or  15  inches  apart  and  3  feet  between  the  rows,  according  to 
the  method  of  cultivating.  Let  the  plants  be  in  the  ground  some  time 
before  getting  their  first  pinching.  Cultivating  must  be  assiduously 
practiced  during  their  stay  in  the  field.  It  serves  three  purposes:  Keeps 
the  roots  cool,  prevents  loss  of  water  by  evaporation,  and  discourages 
the  growth  of  weeds.  Flower  shoots  are  nipped  out  as  soon  as  they 
appear  until  the  plants  have  made  suflacient  growth,  or  a  short  time 
before  they  are  removed  to  their  flowering  quarters. 

Lifting  and  Planting — This  is  done  at  different  seasons,  sometimes 
early,  but  usually  in  September.  In  some  soils  it  is  difficult  to  lift  with 
a  ball;  in  others,  easy.  Some  growers  shake  the  soil  from  the  roots, 
no  matter  in  what  soil  plants  have  been  grown.  As  the  Carnation  is 
rapid  in  forming  feeding  roots  it  is  easy  to  understand  why  it  is  desirable 
to  have  the  roots  entirely  in  the  most  favorable  soil,  such  as  that  with 
which  the  benches  should  be  filled;  but  the  safer  and  more  logical 
method  is  to  have  a  moderate  amount  of  soil  accompanying  the  roots 
from  the  field  to  the  bench.  When  the  plants  are  lifted  without  soil 
clinging  to  the  roots  they  should  be  protected  from  the  drying  influence 
of  the  atmosphere  as  much  as  possible.  As  soon  as  lifted  place  them  in 
a  receptacle,  from  which  they  do  not  have  to  be  removed  until  they  are 
planted  in  the  bench  soil.  Put  the  roots  about  the  same  depth  in  the 
bench  as  they  were  in  the  soil  from  which  they  were  taken;  make  mod- 
erately firm;  water  well  and  shade  for  the  first  few  days.  Use  a  shade 
which  is  easily  removed.    A  solution  of  freshly  mixed  Indurine  may  be 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  129 

applied  with  a  garden  syringe;  test  It  before  applying  to  ascertain  if  it 
comes  off  easily,  as  it  sometimes  sticks  on  longer  than  wanted. 

Soil — This  should  be  of  a  friable  loam,  mixed  thoroughly  some  time  in 
advance  of  using  with  one-fifth  of  its  bulk  of  rotted  stable  manure.  The 
depth  of  soil  may  be  from  4  to  5  inches.  The  plants  are  given  space 
according  to  the  variety.  In  this  connection  it  may  be  stated  that  a 
good  place  to  look  for  the  kind  of  flower  common  25  years  ago  is  on  a 
bench  the  soil  of  which  is  completely  hidden  by  the  plants.  As  much 
light  as  possible  should  be  admitted  to  all  parts  of  the  plant,  and  it  is 
as  important  that  air  should  have  free  circulation  among  the  plants. 

Supports — The  different  methods  are  getting  to  be  about  as  numerous 
as  the  varieties  of  Carnations.  A  good  circular  wire  support  should  be 
easy  to  apply,  easily  removed  and  stored,  give  the  minimum  amount 
of  shade  to  the  plants  and  be  moderate  in  cost.  Several  of  the  designs 
on  the  market  are  satisfactory  in  all  of  the  above  particulars,  excepting 
the  cost,  which,  while  as  low  as  one  could  expect,  is  the  only  hindrance 
to  their  use. 

Temperature— A  minimum  temperature  of  50  degrees,  rising  during 
the  day  to  G5  degrees,  will  be  found  the  proper  range  for  the  best  results. 
The  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  must  be  greatest  immediately  after  the 
plants  are  benched  to  induce  the  formation  of  new  feeding  roots,  gradu- 
ally reducing  it  when  the  plants  show  signs  of  having  become  estab- 
lished. 

Syringing— In  dull  weather  there  is  usually  enough  moisture  in  the 
atmosphere  for  the  needs  of  the  plants,  so  far  as  atmospheric  conditions 
are  concerned.  In  bright,  sunny  weather,  syringing  should,  of  course, 
be  more  frequently  practiced.  No  rules  can  be  laid  down  for  this,  how- 
ever, as  much  depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  floor  of  the  house  in  the 
quantity  of  moisture  it  gives  off,  together  with  the  condition  of  the 
bench  soil.  If  the  atmosphere  be  too  dry,  combined  with  dryness  at  the 
roots,  the  foliage  suffers  to  a  certain  extent,  producing  conditions 
favorable  for  the  attacks  of  red  spider,  aphides  and  fungoid  diseases. 
To  strike  the  happy  medium  good  judgment  as  the  result  of  close  obser- 
vation will  be  necessary. 

Feeding — The  plants  by  their  behavior  will  suggest  the  necessity  for 
this.  When  manure  is  given  in  the  liquid  state  it  should  be  weak  and 
applied  often  rather  than  in  strong  doses  at  long  intervals.  Top-dress- 
ing with  manures  and  fertilizers  should  be  made  the  subject  of  careful 
experiment.  It  is  not  safe  to  follow  given  rules,  as  what  may  suit  some 
soils  will  not  act  the  same  way  with  others. 

Disbudding — The  lateral  buds  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough  to  be  handled.  If  allowed  to  develop,  they  are  simply  a 
drain  on  the  resources  of  the  terminal  bud;  and,  although  they  look 
well  with  the  flower,  still  large  flowers  without  them  bring  higher 
prices. 

Ventilation  is  of  primary  importance  at  all  times.  The  houses  ought 
to  be  closed  only  when  the  outside  temperature  is  too.Iow  to  permit  of 
airing. 


130  HARDY    PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

Varieties — The  best  varieties  to  grow  in  any  one  place  cannot  be 
pointed  out  except  by  experiment,  as  tiiere  is  no  variety  wliich  does 
equally  well  in  all  soils.  When  once  the  best  sorts  for  any  particular 
soil  are  selected  they  should  not  be  discarded  until  new  and  improved 
or  other  kinds  have  been  tested  for  at  least  a  season. 

Carnations  to  Follow  Chrysanthemums — Where  Chrysanthemums  are 
grown  in  large  numbers  on  benches  it  is  sometimes  difficult  to  decide 
what  should  occupy  the  space  vacated  by  them.  Carnations  have  been 
tried  with  successful  results.  Boxes  with  easily  removed  sides  and  ends 
are  placed  close  together  in  the  field,  filled  with  suitable  soil,  and  the 
plants,  six  or  eight,  according  to  the  width  of  the  bench,  put  out  in  each 
box.  On  the  approach  of  unfavorable  weather  the  plants  are  given  the 
protection  of  a  frame  until  the  indoor  space  is  ready  for  them.  The  bot- 
toms of  the  boxes  are  of  stout  material,  and  when  placed  side  by  side 
on  the  frame  work  of  the  bench  they  maj'  either  be  laid  on  the  old  bench 
boards  or  take  their  place.  Soil  is  added  after  they  are  in  position,  to 
make  the  surface  level.  If  necessary,  rested  roses  may  be  substituted 
for  Carnations.  Souvenir  du  President  Carnot  and  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria  give  good  satisfaction  by  this  method. 

MARGUERITE  CARNATIONS— These  were  introduced  about  eight 
years  ago  as  Summer  flowering  Carnations.  They  are  very  free  in 
blooming,  fragrant,  and  quite  varied  in  color.  To  have  an  early  crop 
of  flowers  seedlings  may  be  wintered  in  frames,  and  another  sowing 
made  early  in  March.  In  most  places  they  may  be  safely  put  out  in 
April. 

DICENTRA  SPECTABILIS  (Bleeding  Heart).— One  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful herbaceous  plants  in  cultivation,  flowering  usually  in  May,  splendidly 
adapted  for  forcing.  It  is  one  of  the  first  plants  to  push  its  growths 
above  the  soil.  In  some  localities  it  is  apt  to  suffer  from  late  frosts. 
The  time  for  propagating  is  just  before  the  plant  starts  into  growth. 
Division  of  the  crowns  is  the  most  reliable  method.  Dig  up  the  plants, 
savmg  every  root;  wash  free  of  soil  and  preserve  every  piece  of  the  plant 
having  a  bud.  Those  pieces  of  the  roots  which  are  not  necessary  to  the 
buds  should  be  cut  into  lengths  of  about  3  inches  and  put  in  boxes,  keep- 
ing them  uniformly  moist.  While  they  will  not  all  grow,  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  them  will  pay  for  the  labor.  The  divided  pieces  may  be  potted 
or  boxed,  according  to  fancy,  using  sandy  soil  to  induce  a  good  growth. 
Pieces  of  the  crown  on  which  there  is  a  number  of  buds,  but  not  enough 
roots  to  warrant  further  division,  may  be  gently  forced  into  growth, 
and  when  the  young  shoots  are  of  sufficient  length,  taken  off  and  rooted. 

D.  eximia  is  not  so  tall  growing  as  the  above  named;  the  leaves  are 
more  finely  divided  and  the  flowering  period  is  much  longer. 

DICTAMNUS  FRAXINELLA  (Burning  Bush)— A  good,  old-fashioned 
border  plant,  growing  2  feet  in  height,  with  spikes  of  red  or  white 
flowers.  The  plants  should  be  given  a  good  permanent  position,  as  they 
dislike  removal.    Increased  by  seed. 

DIGITALIS  PURPUREA  (Foxglove,  Witches'  Thimbles)— One  of  the 
most  stately  of  hardy  perennials.    The  flowers,  which  are  large  and  bell- 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  131 

shaped,  are  arranged  in  very  long  racemes.  The  color  is  usually  rose 
and  white.  Although  perennial,  it  is  generally  treated  as  a  biennial. 
Plants  are  easily  raised  from  seeds. 

DODECATHEON  (American  Cowslip)— D.  media,  the  only  species 
which  I  have  seen  in  a  wild  state,  grows  in  shaded  positions,  but  it 
makes  most  of  its  growth  while  the  surrounding  trees  are  leafless.  The 
soil  is  composed  largely  of  vegetable  humus.  Most  of  the  species  thrive 
well,  but  are  not  much  grown  in  gardens;  this  is  probably  because  their 
period  of  bloom  is  short  and  the  plants  are  apt  to  be  lost  sight  of  and 
neglected  when  out  of  bloom.  D.  Clevelandii  and  D.  Hendersonii  are 
Californian  species  of  great  beauty.  Many  varieties  of  hybrid  origin  are 
cultivated  in  Europe,  but  they  are  seldom  seen  in  America.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  places  where  they  can  remain  undisturbed  for  at  least 
a  year,  as  after  germinating  little  progress  is  made  the  first  season 
beyond  the  formation  of  a  root  stock. 

DORONICUn  (Leopard's  Bane)— Useful  plants,  with  yellow,  daisy- 
like flowers,  blooming  in  May.  D.  plantagineum  excelsum  is  one  of  the 
best.  Other  good  kinds  are  D.  austriacum,  D.  caucasicum  and  D.  par- 
dahanches.    They  should  be  increased  by  division  in  the  Fall. 

ERPETION  (Viola)  RENIFORME— A  very  dwarf  plant,  covering  the 
ground  rapidly  by  means  of  runners,  which  are  thrown  out  in  great  pro- 
fusion. It  blooms  all  Summer  if  given  a  shaded  position  on  the  rockery. 
The  flowers  are  small,  blue  and  white;  very  showy.  It  will  thrive  in 
any  kind  of  soil  if  kept  slightly  moist  during  dry  weather.  In  the  lati- 
tude of  Washington,  D.  C,  it  is  perfectly  hardy.  It  is  increased  by  seeds 
or  by  division. 

FARFUGIUM  GRANDE— This  fine  Japanese  plant  is  now  known  as 
Senecio  Ksempferi  aureo-maculata.  It  is  among  the  best  constitutioned 
plants  for  the  dwelling  house.  There  is  a  beautiful  kind  with  white 
spotted  leaves,  which  I  have  only  grown  for  a  couple  of  seasons,  but  I 
suppose  it  to  be  as  hardy  as  the  yellow  spotted  one,  which,  by  the  way, 
has  stood  outdoors  at  Washington,  D.  C,  for  the  last  15  years.  Old 
plants,  with  numerous  growths,  will  stand  division  best  in  early  Spring. 
Give  the  pieces  a  week  in  the  sand  bed  previous  to  potting,  in  order  to 
start  new  roots.  They  thrive  well  in  a  loamy  soil,  well  drained.  The 
pieces  are  potted  after  midsummer  in  a  compost  consisting  largely  of 
leaf  mould  and  sand,  placed  under  cover  of  sash  on  the  approach  of  cold 
weather,  to  preserve  the  leaves  in  a  fresh  state,  and  brought  indoors 
when  wanted  to  bloom. 

FATSIA  (Aralia)  PAPYRIFERA  (Rice  Paper  Plant)— In  this  latitudethe 
plants  are  annually  killed  to  the  ground,  but  they  send  up  shoots  in 
Spring  from  the  roots,  which  grow  very  rapidly,  making  very  attractive 
growths,  sometimes  6  feet  high,  so  that  it  may  be  treated  as  an  herba- 
ceous plant  instead  of  a  shrub,  which  it  really  is  in  its  native  country 
and  in  localities  with  mild  Winters.  Its  habit  of  growth  resembles  to  a 
certain  extent  that  of  the  Castor  Bean,  but  the  plant  is  furnished  with 
leaves  and  retains  them  from  the  ground  up  all  through  the  season. 
Propagation  is  by  pieces  of  the  roots  cut  into  lengths  of  2  or  3  inches. 


132  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

The  operation  may  be  performed  any  time  late  in  Fall,  or  very  early  In 
Spring.  The  roots  should  be  put  in  boxes  of  soil  and  started  into 
growth  in  a  greenhouse  about  the  beginning  of  March.  When  potted 
they  may  be  put  in  a  cold  frame  early. 

FERULA  COHMUNIS— This  plant  is  grown  principally  for  its  very 
large,  handsome  leaves,  which  are  very  much  divided,  giving  it  a 
feathery  appearance.  The  leaves,  which  are  sometimes  5  feet  in  width 
and  fully  as  long,  are  divided  seven  times,  the  leaflets  being  only  one  six- 
teenth of  an  inch  broad.  The  flower  stalks  attain  a  height  of  from  6  to 
10  feet.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest  plants  to  show  above  ground,  some- 
times pushing  up  the  first  leaves  late  in  the  Fall.  After  blooming,  which 
occurs  about  midsummer,  it  goes  to  rest,  losing  all  of  its  leaves  before 
the  end  of  July.  The  seeds,  which  are  ripened  in  great  abundance, 
should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  March  and  encouraged  to  make  all 
the  growth  possible  before  the  resting  period. 

FRAGARIA  INDICA  (Rock  Strawberry)— The  flowers  of  this  species 
are  bright  yellow.  The  fruit  is  dark  red  and  produced  all  through  the 
Summer  and  early  Fall  months.  It  sometimes  increases  so  rapidly  that 
it  becomes  a  weed. 

FUNKIA  (Plantain  Lily)— A  small  genus  of  very  handsome  foliage  and 
flowering  plants  of  the  Lily  family;  most  of  them  are  from  Japan.  There 
are  numerous  garden  forms  all  well  worth  growing,  as  they  make  large 
clumps,  and  the  foliage  is,  in  every  case,  ornamental.  All  the  variegated 
forms  are  well  marked,  preserving  their  leaves  well  all  through  the  sea- 
son, and  thrive  with  little  attention. 

F.  ovata  has  blue  or  white  flowers  and  large,  broad  leaves.  The  va- 
riety F,  o.  marginata  has  the  foliage  margined  with  white.  F.  lanicifo- 
lia,  one  of  the  species  most  frequently  met  with,  has  short,  narrow 
leaves;  flowers  small,  white,  with  a  purplish  tinge.  This  has  several 
prettily  variegated  forms.  All  of  the  kinds  are  propagated  by  division 
of  t*ie  crowns  early  in  the  season.  If  divided  to  single  growths  the  pieces 
should  be  potted  and  kept  under  cover  for  a  time  to  encourage  growth. 
They  thrive  best  in  heavy,  rich,  loamy  soil. 

F.  Sieboldiana  is  a  strong-growing  species,  with  large  glaucous  leaves. 
The  flowers  are  white,  tinged  with  lilac — a  very  desirable  species  thriving 
well  in  sun  or  shade. 

F.  subcordata  has  very  large,  pure  white  flowers  on  long  stalks.  The 
leaves  are  light  green,  but  somewhat  soft.  In  places  exposed  to  full 
sunshine  the  foliage  is  apt  to  suffer;  it  should  therefore  have  partial 
shade.  Blooming  late  in  the  season,  it  is  one  of  the  handsomest  herba- 
ceous plants  in  cultivation. 

QAILLARDIA  ARISTATA — There  are  several  handsome  flowered  varie- 
ties in  cultivation.  They  are  exceedingly  effective  border  plants.  Raised 
from  seed  in  August  or  September. 

QALAX  APHYLLA — A  dwarf  evergreen,  the  leaves  of  which  are  much 
used  by  florists  in  forming  backgrounds  for  floral  pieces.    It  thrives  well 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  133 

in  partial  shade  in  the  rockery.    Increased  by   division  before  growth 
begins. 

QENTIANA  (Gentian)— Although  these  are  among  the  most  beautiful 
of  hardy  plants  they  will  not  pay  the  florist  to  handle  them.  With  one 
or  two  exceptions  the  kinds  which  are  so  popular  in  northern  Europe 
do  not  succeed  in  the  Middle  Atlantic  States.  Our  hot,  dry  Summers  are 
against  them.  G.  Andrewsii  and  G.  saponaria  are  both  natives.  They 
may  be  planted  in  half-shaded  situations,  where  their  roots  will  pene- 
trate deeply. 

QERANIUn  SANQUINEUn— This  species  is  about  the  only  satisfac- 
tory one  in  the  genus  for  our  hot,  dry  Summers.  For  rock  work  it  is 
probably  the  best  all-round  plant  grown.  It  seldom  invades  the  terri- 
tory of  other  plants,  never  looks  weedy,  and  is  in  flower  from  early  till 
late.  The  flowers  are  solitary,  about  II/2  inches  across,  crimson.  Prop- 
agated by  division,  or  from  seed.    The  plant  is  quite  hardy. 

QYPSOPHILA— G.  paniculata  is  grown  to  a  considerable  extent  for 
cutting.  The  flowers  are  small,  whitish,  but  produced  in  great  profu- 
sion, in  large  panicles.  Increased  by  seeds.  The  seedlings  must  get  all 
the  light  possible,  as  they  are  very  liable  to  get  weak  if  kept  at  all 
shaded.  G.  prostrata  is  a  very  dwarf  species  suitable  for  rock  work. 
Increased  from  cuttings  in  Spring  or  Fall. 

HELIANTHUS  (Sunflower)— The  perennial  species  are,  for  the  most 
part,  useful  late  blooming  plants.  In  favorable  positions  some  of  the 
species  grow  very  tall.  They  are  among  the  easiest  plants  to  increase 
by  division.  H.  decapitatus,  single  flowered,  usually  grows  about  6  feet 
high.  H.  a.  multiflorus  varies  considerably;  in  some  forms  the  florets 
are  arranged  like  those  in  the  anemone-flowered  chrysanthemum;  other 
forms  have  them  of  a  uniform  size.  A  most  useful  plant  for  supplying 
cut  bloom.  H.  orgyalis  blooms  in  September.  H.  rigidus  and  H.  mollis 
are  both  good  species. 

HELLEBORUS  (Christmas  Rose)— There  are  about  a  dozen  species, 
with  numerous  varieties  principally  of  hybrid  origin.  All  of  them  are 
well  worth  growing  because  of  their  early-blooming  nature.  H.  niger  is 
the  true  Christmas  Rose,  which,  under  favorable  conditions,  will  some- 
times flower  in  December,  and  in  colder  parts  of  the  country  it  comes 
into  bloom  after  one  or  two  genial  days.  H.  n.  altifolius  has  flowers 
much  larger  than  the  type.  H.  colchicus,  a  species  with  deep  purple 
flowers,  blooms  early  in  March.  H.  orieutalis  (the  Lenten  Rose)  has 
rose-colored  flowers— one  of  the  best  in  this  latitude.  Among  its  many 
varieties  H.  o.  guttatus  is  white  flowered  with  purple-spotted  sepals. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  root  division.  Seeds  of  most  of  them  are 
freely  ripened.  If  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  and  kept  in  a  cold  frame, 
they  germinate  well;  but  the  seedlings  take  two  or  three  years  to  make 
flowering  plants. 

HEMEROCALLIS  (Day  Lily)— H.  fulva,  the  species  so  common  in 
waste  places  all  over  the  Eastern  States,  is  not  a  native;  but  with  H. 
flava,  less  commonly  seen,  it  has  escaped  from  cultivation.  H.  graminea 


134  HARDY   PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

is  the  earliest  to  bloom,  opening  during  the  latter  half  of  May.  H. 
Dumortieri  has  orange-yellow  flowers  tinged  with  brown.  H.  Midden- 
dorfii  is  deep  golden  yellow.  The  rarer  species  are  successfully  raised 
from  seed  sown  in  Summer  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  the  young  plants 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  seed  boxes  until  the  following  Spring,  when 
they  may  be  planted  out  in  rows  to  increase  in  size.  The  double  flowered 
and  variegated  forms  of  H.  fulva  should  be  increased  by  division.  They 
are  all  desirable  border  plants. 

HEUCHERA  (Alum  Root)— Of  this  genus  there  are  some  twenty  species 
native  of  North  America,  most  of  which  are  hardly  worth  cultivating. 
There  is  one,  however,  which  is  rightly  considered  as  being  among  the 
most  ornamental  of  late  Spring  blooming  perennials;  this  is  H.  san- 
guinea.  It  has  long  panicles  of  reddish  pink  or  white  flowers.  Large 
plants  which  show  signs  of  v.'eakness  should  be  lifted,  divided,  and  re- 
planted. They  will  need  this  treatment  about oncein  two  years,  as  they 
are  inclined  to  get  weak  when  they  remain  long  in  one  place.  October 
is  the  best  month  for  dividing.  Seeds  should  be  sown  during  March,  in 
the  greenhouse.  The  seedlings  are  quite  small  at  first,  and  they  should 
be  allowed  to  make  considerable  headway  before  being  potted  off. 

HEPATICA  TRILOBA— One  of  the  earliest  Spring-flowering  plants. 
In  their  native  habitats  they  a-i-e  usually  found  growing  on  southern 
slopes  partially  shaded  by  the  foliage  of  trees  and  shrubs  in  Summer, 
but  with  the  benefit  of  full  sunshine  when  developing  flowers  and  seeds. 
Of  the  above  species  the  varieties  are  very  numerous,  some  of  them  hav- 
ing been  long  under  cultivation  in  European  gardens,  where  they  are 
highly  prized.  H.  t.  rubra  is  bright  red;  H.  t.  alba,  white;  H.  t.  cceru- 
lea,  lilac.  There  are  also  double  red  and  double  blue  varieties,  the 
former  being  very  common,  the  latter  somewhat  scarce.  H.  angulosa 
is  a  distinct  species,  with  very  large,  blue  flowers.  If  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  same  position  for  several  years  they  form  very  large  clumps.  Prop- 
agation of  the  varieties  is  easiest  accomplished  by  division  in  Autumn. 

IBERIS  (Candytuft) — The  perennial  species  are  in  reality  dwarf,  ever- 
green shrubs.  They  are  attractive  in  appearance  all  the  year  round. 
They  come  in  bloom  the  latter  part  of  April  and  last  till  the  end  of  May. 
There  are  about  half  a  dozen  species  and  varieties.  I.  semper virens  and 
I.  s.  superba  are  the  best;  they  grow  from  9  to  12  inches  high.  I.  sem- 
perflorens  is  a  taller  growing  species  with  large,  pure  white  flowers.  I. 
Tenoreana  grows  about  6  inches  high.  It  blooms  in  May;  flowers  pur- 
plish white.  I.  correiefolia  has  the  flowers  in  flat,  compact  heads.  I. 
gibraltarica  is  the  largest  of  all;  the  flowers  are  white  tinged  with  pink. 
It  is  somewhat  straggling  in  growth.  I.  g.  hybrida  Is  more  compact, 
with  the  flowers  at  first  white,  changing  to  rosy  purple.  Although  most 
of  the  species  produce  seed  freely  enough  the  seedlings  are  of  a  straggling 
growth  for  the  first  season.  Much  better  plants  are  raised  from  good- 
sized  cuttings  taken  at  the  end  of  September,  and  put  in  sand,  in  a  cold 
propagating  frame.  If  kept  close  and  moist  they  will  root  well.  The 
cuttings,  when  rooted,  should  be  put  in  3-inch  pots,  and  plunged  in  a 
cold  frame  for  the  Winter. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  135 

IRIS— A  large  genus.  There  are  upward  of  100  species;  the  varieties 
of  some  of  them  are  numerous.  The  genus  is  divided  into  two  sections. 
Id  one  section,  known  as  Xiphions,  the  species  have  tuberous  root- 
stocks;  one  or  two  of  them,  such  as  I.  reticulata  and  I.  persica,  produce 
the  flowers  before  the  leaves.  Most  of  the  species  have  thick  rhizomes, 
which  creep  along  the  surface  of  the  soil,  or  a  short  distance  beneath. 
To  this  section  most  of  the  very  numerous  garden  varieties  belong.  They 
are  known  as  German  Irises,  but  having  been  in  cultivation  for  a  long 
time,  it  is  impossible  to  tell  just  from  what  species  some  of  them  have 
originated.  The  species  which  are  commonly  included  among  the  Ger- 
man Irises  are  I.  neglecta,  I.  squalens,  I.  variegata  and  I.  germanica. 
Numerous  varieties  have  sprung  from  each  species,  and  from  these  there 
are  evidently  many  cross  breeds.  1.  germanica  is  a  handsome  species. 
I.  g.  alba  is  pure  white,  very  early  in  blooming,  and  forces  well.  I.  g. 
velveteen  has  dark  purple  falls  and  standards.  The  flowers  of  the 
known  varieties  of  the  I.  phylla  have  a  white  ground,  with  the  margins 
marked  lavender  and  purple.  Mme.  Chereau  is  a  well-known  form. 
I.  plicata  is  white  frilled  with  blue.  The  varieties  of  I.  amoena  have  the 
standards  usually  white  and  the  falls  variously  marked  with  violet  blue. 
In  I.  variegata  the  very  numerous  varieties  have  the  standards  yellow; 
the  falls  are  of  a  wide  range  of  color — dark  yellow,  maroon,  dark  purple 
and  crimson  brown.  The  forms  of  I.  squalens  have  the  standards  copper- 
bronze  and  fawn  colored,  and  the  falls  among  other  colors  are  maroon, 
purple,  bronzy-yellow,  violet  and  lavender.  I.  pallida  has  lavender 
standards,  and  the  falls  of  the  same  color  shaded  with  rose.  I.  p.  dal- 
matica  is  a  very  large  and  sweetly-scented  flower— one  of  the  best  in 
cultivation;  the  standards  and  falls  are  deep  lavender.  In  the  varieties 
of  I.  neglecta  the  standards  range  in  color  from  lavender  to  purple,  and 
the  falls  crimson,  purple,  violet,  white  and  intermediate  shades.  I. 
florentina  is  almost  pure  white,  and  comes  into  flower  from  the  15th  to 
the  end  of  May.  I.  pumila,  a  d  warf  species,  is  usually  out  of  bloom  early 
in  May;  it  has  many  fine  varieties.  I.  cristata  is  a  native  of  the  Eastern 
States,  and  is  well  adapted  for  half-shaded  places  in  the  rockery.  It  is 
the  dwarfest  of  all  the  rhizomatous  species.  I.  versicolor  and  I.  pseudo- 
acorus,  although  thriving  under  conditions  which  suit  most  of  the  gar- 
den forms,  will  do  better  when  the  soil  is  continually  moist.  I.  graminea 
and  I.  sibirica  are  both  worthy  of  cultivation;  they  have  long,  narrow 
leaves,  and  small  flowers.  I.  laevigata,  better  known  as  I.  Kaempferi, 
will  also  thrive  in  borders,  especially  when  given  a  deep  mulch  of  well- 
rotted  manure;  but  they  show  up  to  better  advantage  when  grown  in 
fairly  moist  ground.  This  species  is  one  of  the  latest  to  bloom;  it  has 
many  varieties,  some  of  which  are  very  large  and  showy.  The  expanded 
flowers,  when  used  for  cutting,  will  not  stand  much  handling;  but  the 
buds,  when  nearly  full  size,  will  open  out  when  placed  in  water;  in  this 
condition  they  may  be  shipped  long  distances. 

Propagation — Most  of  the  bulbous  species  are  offered  at  reasonable 
prices  by  dealers.  The  rhizomatous  species  and  forms  may  be  rapidly 
increased  by  division.  Large  masses  may  be  reduced  in  size  and  re- 
planted early  in  March  without  interfering  with  the  crop  of  flowers.  In 
dividing  into  smaller  pieces,  it  is  better  to  wait  until  the  plants  have 


136  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

completed  their  growth,  when  they  may  be  cut  in  small  pieces,  heeled  in 
where  they  are  slightly  protected  in  Winter,  and  put  in  permanent  posi- 
tions in  March  or  April.  They  will  stand  a  rich  soil,  but  should  not  be 
deeply  planted,  as  they  are  then  liable  to  decay  during  wet  weather  in 
Summer  and  Autumn. 

KNIPHOFIA  ALOIDES— Better  known  as  Tritoma  uvaria  (Torch 
Lily,)  is  an  old-fashioned,  border  plant  with  long,  narrow,  dark  green 
leaves  and  tall  spikes  of  flowers,  at  first  coral  red,  changing  to  orange, 
and  subsequently  to  a  greenish  yellow.  It  is  a  native  of  South  Africa, 
and  in  localities  where  the  Winters  are  severe  it  should,  along  with  the 
other  species  and  varieties,  be  protected  by  covering  the  crowns  with 
half-decayed  leaves  or  stable  litter.  K.  a.  maxima  has  larger  flowers. 
K.  Macowani,  is  an  orange-red  flowered  species.  K.  Leichtlinii  Is  one  of 
the  tallest  of  the  species.  There  are  numerous  hybrid  forms,  all  of  them 
desirable  for  the  herbaceous  border.  They  thrive  best  in  deep  rich  soil,  and 
in  fully  exposed  situations.  Seedlings  of  most  of  the  kinds  may  be 
raised,  but  they  are  somewhat  slow  in  making  flowering  plants.  Old 
specimens  are  easily  divided,  and  give  good-sized  pieces  to  start  with. 

LEONTOPODIUn  ALPINUH  (Edelweiss)— Although  a  native  of  the 
Alps  of  Switzerland  this  plant  thrives  luxuriantly  when  planted  out  on 
rockwork  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  Seedlings  are  best  raised  in  Septem- 
ber and  wintered  in  pots,  in  a  cold  frame.  When  planting  out  put  some 
flat  pieces  of  stone  around  the  bases  of  the  plants. 

LESPEDEZA  BICOLOR,  also  known  as  Desmodium  penduliflorum  and 
L.  Sieboldii.  The  plant  has  a  shrub-like  growth,  reaching  from  4  to  6 
feet  in  height.  The  flowers,  which  are  small  and  pea-shaped,  are  very 
numerously  produced  in  long,  pendulous-branched  panicles  late  in  the 
season.  The  colors  are  rose  and  white.  Cuttings  taken  before  the  flowers 
appear  will  root  freely.  They  should  be  kept  indoors  to  encourage 
growth  before  going  to  rest.  Old  plants  may  be  divided  before  starting 
into  growth. 

LINDELOFIA  SPECTABILIS  —  A  low-growing  borage-wort,  with 
handsome,  bluish-red  flowers.  It  grows  12  to  18  inches  high.  It  is  a 
very  reliable  herbaceous  plant,  quite  hardy  and  stands  the  sun  well.  If 
seeds  are  sown  latein  Summer,  the  plants  will  bloom  the  following  season. 

LOBELIA— The  native  species  L.  cardinalis  and  L.  syphilitica  are,  in 
this  latitude,  much  more  satisfactory  than  any  of  the  gaudy-flowered 
forms  of  L.  fulgens  and  L.  splendens.  Seedlings  should  be  raised  in  late 
Summer  to  provide  flowering  plants  the  following  season.  L.  cardinalis 
is  among  the  handsomest  of  herbaceous  plants;  the  flowers  are  bright 
scarlet.  It  must  have  abundance  of  water  when  growing.  L.  syphi- 
litica, a  blue  flowered  species,  will  succeed  well  in  a  drier  soil. 

LYCHNIS— There  are  numerous  species  in  this  genus  which  are  desira- 
ble as  border  or  rockery  plants.  L.  vespertina  flore-pleno  has  large 
double  white  flowers;  increased  by  root  cuttings.  When  sown  latein 
Autumn  and  kept  indoors,  seedlings  of  L.  fulgens  and  its  varieties  are  in 
good  condition  for  planting  out  by  April.    The  scarlet  Lychnis,  L.  chal- 


HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS.  137 

cedonica,  is  a  midsummer  bloomer;  it  should  be  lifted  and  replanted 
every  second  year.  Tiie  double  kinds  are  increased  by  division.  The 
double  flowered  variety  of  L.  viscaria  has  an  extended  blooming  period. 
It  is  an  erect-growing  plant,  usually  about  a  foot  high,  with  rosy  red 
flowers.    Best  increased  by  division  in  early  Spring. 

L.  coronaria  (Agrostemma)— This  plant  has  silvery-gray  foliage, 
which  in  itself  would  be  sufficient  to  insure  a  place  for  it  in  the  herba- 
ceous border.  The  flowers,  however,  are  exceedingly  showy.  The  type 
has  red  blossoms.  There  are  varieties  with  crimson,  pink  and  white 
flowers.  Seeds  should  be  sown  in  September;  the  seedlings  pricked  off 
into  boxes  and  wintered  in  a  cold  frame.  They  should  be  planted  out 
very  early. 

LYSIMACHIA  (Loosestrife)— Most  of  the  species  are  of  weedy  growth 
and  increase  rapialy.  L.  nummularia  is  the  Money-wort  or  Creeping 
Jenny;  useful  as  a  creeper  or  for  hanging  baskets  or  vases.  There  is  a 
beautiful  form  with  yellowish  leaves.  L.  clethroides  is  a  handsome  spe- 
cies, growing  from  2  to  3  feet  high;  the  flowers,  which  are  white,  are 
arranged  in  long,  drooping  spikes.    It  is  readily  propagated  by  division. 

LYTHRUM  SALICARIA  (Purple  Loosestrife)— This  species  grows  from 
3  to  4  feet  high.  The  flowers  are  of  a  rosy-purple  color.  Increased  by 
division. 

MERTENSIA  VIRGINICA  (Virginian  Cowslip)— There  are  several 
species  of  Mertensia  all  worth  cultivating,  but  unfortunately  some  are 
not  so  easily  grown  as  M.  virginica.  This  is  by  far  the  showiest  species, 
and  if  the  conditions  under  which  it  grows  in  a  wild  state  are  imitated, 
there  will  be  no  diflSculty  in  its  cultivation.  In  Spring  most  of  its 
growth  is  made  without  shade — that  is,  before  the  trees  are  in  leaf.  It  is 
usually  found  in  damp  woods.  In  this  locality  its  period  of  blooming  is 
from  April  15  to  the  middle  of  May.  It  grows  from  12  to  18  inches  high. 
The  leaves  have  a  slightly  glaucous  hue;  the  flowers  are  arranged  in 
drooping  terminal  clusters,  reddish-purple  in  the  bud,  subsequently 
changing  in  the  open  flower  to  a  beautiful  light  blue.  It  is  one  of  our 
handsomest  native  plants.    Propagated  by  division. 

nONARDA  (Horse  Mint)— These  plants,  although  not  averse  to 
moisture,  will  thrive  in  very  dry  soil.  There  are  several  species,  and  one 
or  two  varieties  common  in  gardens.  The  best  known  is  M.  didyma,  a 
species  with  bright  scarlet  heads  of  flowers.  M.  flstulosa  has  purple 
flowers.  M.  f.  alba  is  pure  white.  They  are  in  bloom  during  midsum- 
mer, and  among  the  easiest  plants  to  increase  by  division. 

nORINA  LONQIFOLIA— A  very  choice  perennial,  reaching  2  feet  in 
height.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  whorls  arranged  on  a  long  stalk. 
The  buds  are  white,  changing  later  to  pink  and  crimson.  Seeds  of  this 
species  are  easily  obtainable.  When  sown  in  Spring  they  do  not  bloom 
till  the  following  year. 

riYOSOTIS  (Forget=me=not)— In  this  genus  there  are  numerous  species, 
most  of  which  are  of  little  value.  M.  dissitiflora  and  M.  sylvatica  are 
commonly  cultivated.    Seeds  may  be  sown  late  in  Summer  to  have 


138  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

bushy  flowering  plants  for  Spring  blooming.  Tiiere  are  blue,  white,  and 
pink  forms.  In  Washington,  D.  C,  they  are  planted  in  the  Public  Gar- 
dens, and  along  with  Pansies  they  bloom  during  April  and  May.  They 
are  sometimes  effectively  used  among  Hyacinths  and  TuHps,  in  well- 
protected  spots,  keeping  up  a  good  display  of  bloom  until  the  time 
arrives  for  filling  the  beds  with  their  usual  Summer  occupants. 

CENOTHERA  (Evening  Primrose)— Handsome  plants  for  rock  work 
or  border.  (E.  Lamarckiana  grows  to  a  height  of  5  feet;  flowers  yel- 
low. It  is  biennial  induration.  (E.  Fraseri  is  a  dwarf  species  suitable  for 
the  rockery.  CE.  missouriensis  has  large  yellow  flowers  on  trailing  stems. 
O^.  taraxacifolia  is  a  trailer,  with  very  large,  pure  white  flowers,  open- 
ing at  night.  Plants  come  up  freely  from  self-sown  seed.  ffi.  eximia  is 
a  choice  dwarf  species,  with  very  large  white  flowers.  OE.  amoena  var. 
rubicunda  has  the  flowers  deep  rose  colored;  there  are  several  forms. 
All  of  the  kinds  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in  September. 

ONONIS  (Restharrow)— O.  rotundifolia  is  a  very  desirable  dwarf, 
Bhrub-like  plant,  with  pea-shaped  rose  colored  flowers.  Raised  from 
seed.    A  native  of  southern  Europe. 

ONOSHA  STELLULATUM  V.  TAURICUM— A  dwarf,  evergreen  plant, 
forming  dense  tufts  of  narrow  hairy  leaves.  The  flowers,  which  are 
bright  yellow,  tubular,  and  IV2  inches  long,  are  arranged  in  branching 
cymes.  The  plant  is  best  propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  the 
ripened  growths  taken  during  the  end  of  September.  They  must  be 
rooted  cool. 

OPHIOPOGON — Dwarf  evergreen  plants,  with  grass-like  foliage.  The 
most  useful  species  is  O.  gracilis;  it  is  used  for  planting  in  dense  shade 
where  few  other  plants  thrive.  The  leaves  are  narrow;  flowers  small, 
white,  followed  by  beautiful  blue  berries,  which  continue  on  the  plant 
all  Winter.  Increased  bj-  division  in  Spring.  A.  Jaburan  is  a  taller  spe- 
cies; the  variegated  form  is  a  handsome  plant.  O.  japonicus  has  also 
a  variegated  form.  Both  of  these  are  successfully  propagated  by  early 
di\Isiou.    In  this  locality  they  stand  the  Winters  unharmed. 

OROBUS  (Lathyrus)  VERNUS  (Bitter  Vetch)— This  species  comes  in 
bloom  during  April  and  lasts  only  for  a  short  time.  The  flowers  on 
opening  are  purple  and  blue,  the  purple  changing  to  blue  as  the  blossoms 
mature.  Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  As  the  plants  make 
but  little  headway  during  the  first  season,  they  should  be  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  seed  pan  till  the  following  Spring.  There  are  several 
other  desirable  species,  such  as  O.  pannonicus,  O.  flaccidus  and  O. 
aurantius. 

PACHYSANDRA — There  are  only  two  species  in  this  genus,  both  of 
which  are  in  cultivation.  P.  procumbens  is  a  North  American  plant. 
The  flowers  are  very  inconspicuous,  produced  in  March  and  April  at  the 
bases  of  the  stems  made  the  preceding  year.  In.  P.  terminalis  they  are 
situated  on  the  ends  of  the  shoots.  Both  species  are  evergreen.  P.  ter- 
minalis is  of  a  brighter  green  than  P.  pachysandra.  They  are  very  use- 
ful for  planting  under  trees;  are  deep-rooting  and  stand  drought  well. 
Increased  by  division. 


HARDY   PERENNIAL    PLANTS.  139 

PAEONIA  (Paeony,  Peony,  or  Piony)— This  genus  is  divided  into  two 
sections  or  sub-genera— Shrubby  and  Herbaceous— the  last-named  sec- 
tion is  subdivided  into  three  groups,  with  well  marked  botanical  charac- 
ters. The  double-flowering  herbaceous  kinds,  which  bloom  during  the 
latter  part  of  May  and  in  June,  are  varieties  of  P.  albiflora.  There  are 
hundreds  of  kinds  in  cultivation,  varying  in  color  from  white  through 
the  different  shades  of  pink  to  deep  crimson.  Their  successful  culture 
demands  a  deep  and  well-manured  soil,  with  a  heavy  mulching  of 
manure  during  the  Winter  and  Spring  months.  The  varieties  of  the 
European  Paeonies  come  into  flower  several  weeks  in  advance  of  the 
Chinese  varieties.  P.  ofl3cinalis  has  double  rose,  red,  and  pinkish-white 
forms.  P.  paradoxa  fimbriata  has  double  purple  flowers.  P.  tenuifolia 
flore-pleno  bears  medium-sized  double  flowers,  bright  crimson  in  color. 
The  leaves  of  this  species  are  of  a  feathery  nature.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
distinct  and  handsome  Paeonies  in  cultivation.  There  are  several  showy 
European  species,  some  of  which  have  numerous  single-flowered  varie- 
ties. They  all  bloom  much  earlier  than  the  Chinese  Paeonies,  and  are 
useful  for  the  embellishment  of  the  herbaceous  border  and  for  cutting. 
P.  anomala  blooms  during  the  first  week  in  May;  this  sort  is  sometimes 
sold  as  P.  tenuifolia.  The  leaf  divisions  are  fewer  than  in  that  species 
and  broader.  P.  a.  insignis  has  crimson  flowers.  P.  arietina  is  the 
earliest  species  to  flower,  expanding  in  this  locality  by  the  end  of  April. 
There  are  about  a  dozen  distinct  varieties.  P.  Witmanniana  is  another 
early  bloomer.  Of  P.  ofiicinalis  and  P.  peregrina  there  are  numerous 
single-flowered  varieties.  The  Herbaceous  Paeonies  are  increased  by 
seeds  and  by  division  of  the  crowns.  The  seeds  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe, 
so  that  they  may  germinate  the  following  Spring.  They  should  be 
sown  in  a  frame,  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a  year  before  transplanting. 
Old  plants  are  best  divided  in  October;  except  with  rare  kinds  the 
divided  pieces  should  be  large.  Plant  deep  enough  to  make  certain  of 
the  crowns  being  well  beneath  the  surface. 

PAPAVER  (Poppy)— In  the  Herbaceous  section  of  this  popular  genus 
P.  orieutale  and  its  variety  P.  o.  bracteatum  are  the  most  important 
kinds.  There  are  several  forms  of  each,  varying  chiefly  in  the  colors  of 
the  flowers.  Most  of  them  are  of  different  shades  of  scarlet,  and  very 
large.  The  plants,  according  to  variety,  vary  in  height  from  I1/2  to  3 
feet.  They  bloom  during  May  and  June,  according  to  locality.  The 
stock  is  best  increased  by  seed.  When  the  capsules  show  signs  of  ripen- 
ing they  should  be  carefully  watched,  as  they  open  at  the  top,  and  a 
slight  movement  of  the  atmosphere  will  displace  the  seeds.  Sow  in 
boxes  soon  as  ripe,  but  not  too  thickly,  so  as  to  do  away  with  the 
necessity  of  pricking  off — an  operation  which  does  not  succeed  as  well 
as  could  be  wished.  The  seedlings  will  make  sufficient  headway  to  pass 
the  Winter  securely  in  a  cold  frame.  During  March  bring  into  a  cool 
house,  and  when  they  show  signs  of  growing  pot  off  into  2l^  or  3-inch 
pots,  according  to  size.  They  should  always  be  planted  from  pots,  as 
they  do  not  lift  well. 

P.  nudicaule  is  a  choice  species  with  orange,  yellow  or  white  flowers. 
The  double  forms  are  often  used  as  cut  bloom.    In  the  warmer  parts  of 


140  HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

the  country  the  plants  will  succeed  fairly  well  if  they  be  raised  from  seed 
sown  during  September,  and  either  planted  out  late  or  wintered  in  a 
frame  and  put  out  very  early.  In  the  colder  parts  plants  are  freely 
raised  from  self-sown  seed.    It  is  a  species  which  dislikes  extreme  heat. 

PENTSTEMON— The  garden  varieties  are  the  offspring  of  P.  gentia- 
noides  and  P.  Cobaea.  In  localities  where  climatic  conditions  are  favor- 
able they  are  much  prized.  In  this  section  they  are  short-lived,  owing 
to  the  extreme  heat.  There  are  many  extremely  handsome  species.  P. 
(Chelone)  barbatus  and  P.  b.  Torreyi  will  thrive  almost  anywhere,  as 
they  cover  the  ground  with  dense,  short  growths.  The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  panicles  about  3  feet  high;  they  vary  in  color  from  light  pink 
to  carmine.  The  Pentstemons  are  very  easily  increased,  at  almost  any 
time,  by  division. 

PHLOX — P.  subulata  (Moss  Pink)  is  the  parent  of  many  beautiful 
forms  extensively  used  for  the  edges  of  borders  and  for  rock  work.  In 
April  they  are  covered  with  myriads  of  flowers  close  to  the  foliage. 
Among  the  white-flowered  forms  are  P.  s.  Nelsoni,  P.  s.  aristata  and 
P.  s.  nivalis.  P.  s.  Vivid  has  rose-colored  flowers  with  carmine  center. 
P.  8.  frondosa  is  a  pink  variety  with  dark  center.  Their  propagation  is 
usually  effected  by  cuttings — a  slow  method.  If  the  plants  are  kept  sup- 
plied with  water  during  September  they  will  emit  roots  at  the  bases  of 
the  principal  growths,  and  during  October  these  may  be  cut  up  and 
heeled  in  on  a  sheltered  border,  potted,  or  removed  to  permanent  posi- 
tions, very  early  in  Spring.  Other  desirable  dwarf  species  are  P.  amoena, 
P.  reptans  and  P.  divaricata.  The  well-known  and  deservedly  popular 
herbaceous  Phloxes  are  divided  into  two  sections,  early  and  late  flower- 
ing. The  flrst  or  early  blooming  section  is  known  as  P.  Buffruticosa, 
being  varieties  of  P.glab^rrima  suffruticosa.  The  late  blooming  section 
is  known  as  P.  decussata^  and  among  the  species  which  have  contri- 
buted varieties  are  P.  maculata  and  P.  paniculata.  The  varieties  are 
exceedingly  numerous.  In  recent  years  some  very  beautiful  forms  have 
been  sent  out.  They  stand  well  as  cut  flowers.  The  plants  should  be 
lifted,  divided  and  replanted  every  second  year,  as  when  they  remain 
long  without  removal  the  panicles  are  small.  Early  in  March  is  the 
best  time  for  the  operation.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  from  the  plants  as 
they  start  into  growth  and  rooted  in  a  temperature  suitable  for  Carna- 
tion cuttings.  The  growths  will  be  much  improved  by  a  heavy  mulch- 
ing of  manure  about  the  crowns  during  the  growing  season. 

PHYQELIUS  CAPENSIS  is  hardy  in  places  where  the  mercury  does  not 
fall  lower  than  10  degrees  F.  The  trouble  with  this  very  desirable  plant 
is  that  it  continues  to  grow  during  the  Autumn  months  instead  of  going 
to  rest.  The  growth  made  at  this  period,  however,  furnishes  good 
material  for  cuttings,  which,  if  put  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  cool  house,  will 
root  in  a  few  days.    They  may  be  wintered  in  a  cold  frame. 

PHYSALIS  FRANCHETTI— The  attractive  feature  of  this  plant  is  the 
large  red-colored  calyx,  enclosing  a  large  l)erry  of  the  same  color.  It  is 
apt  to  encroach  on  other  plants,  so  rapidly  do  the  underground  stems 
spread. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  141 

PLATYCODON  GRANDIFLORUM  (Chinese  Bellf lower)— An  erect  grow- 
ing plant,  with  flowers  resembling  those  of  the  Campanula.  P.  g. 
Mariesii  is  a  variety  of  dwarfer  habit,  and  bears  larger  flowers.  The 
roots  are  thick  and  fleshy.  Seedlings  raised  early  in  Spring  sometimes 
bloom  late  the  same  season. 

PRinULA  (Primrose)— There  are  few  of  the  species  but  what  are 
worth  growing.  Many  of  them,  however,  are  unsuited  to  the  climate 
of  the  Eastern  States,  it  being  too  cold  in  Winter  and  too  hot  in  Sum- 
mer. A  few  of  the  species  and  many  of  their  varieties  do  well.  P.  vul- 
garis and  the  varieties  with  double  yellow,  red,  purple,  white,  and  lilac 
flowers  succeed  well  if  they  are  given  water  during  the  growing  period. 
They  will  even  stand  in  almost  full  sunshine,  but  they  thrive  best  in  half- 
shaded  spots.  All  of  them  are  best  increased  by  division  very  early  in 
the  season.  P.  elatior  is  the  Oxlip,  and  what  is  known  as  the  Cowslip 
is  P.  veris.  The  Polyanthus  is  a  garden  race,  said  to  be  a  hybrid  be- 
tween the  last-named  species  and  P.  vulgaris.  The  different  varieties 
are  useful  for  rock  work  and  for  borders.  A  good  selection  of  forms  may 
be  had  from  seed  sown  in  Spring;  but  the  plants  will  not  bloom  until 
the  second  year.  Some  of  the  Himalayan  species  do  fairly  well  in  this 
latitude  if  given  a  position  shaded  from  sun  in  Winter  and  mulched  in 
Summer.  P.  denticulata  and  its  forms  are  among  the  best.  P.  sikki- 
mensis  should  be  tried  in  damp,  shady  ground  by  the  margins  of  lakes. 
P.  cortusoides  Sieboldii  produces  pure  white,  crimson  and  lilac  colored 
flowers;  very  useful  for  cutting.  The  plants  have  creeping  root  stocks, 
and  thrive  best  when  protected  by  a  frame  in  Winter.  In  the  Fall  those 
plants  which  are  to  remain  in  the  open  during  Winter  should  be  gone 
over,  and  those  which  have  their  crowns  above  the  surface  of  the  soil 
lifted  and  replanted,  so  that  the  roots  may  be  protected. 

RUDBECKIA  (Conef lower)— Nearly  all  of  the  species  are  worthy  of  a 
place  in  the  herbaceous  border.  A  few  of  them  are  valuable  for  supply- 
ing cut  flowers.  R.  speciosa(R.  Newmanni)  grows  from  2  to  3  feet  high; 
the  color  of  the  outer  florets  is  orange-yellow,  while  those  in  the  center 
are  almost  black.  R.  maxima  is  a  much  taller  species,  valuable  for  cut- 
ting. R.  laciniata  attains  a  height  of  4  feet.  The  variety  known  as 
Golden  Glow  has  large  double  yellow  flowers;  the  best  of  all  for  cutting. 
R.  purpurea  (Echinacea  purpurea)  has  purple  florets.  Some  of  the  spe- 
cies are  easily  raised  from  seeds,  but  most  of  them  may  be  divided  freely 
if  the  work  is  done  before  they  make  much  growth  in  Spring. 

SALVIA  PRATENSIS— This  species  has  very  long  spikes  of  flowers  in 
bright  blue,  rose,  and  white.  They  flower  in  May,  and  are  exceedingly 
attractive.  They  all  seed  freely,  and  if  sown  early  in  the  Fall,  will 
bloom  the  following  Spring.  S.  azurea  and  S.  a.  grandiflora  are  tall- 
growing  species,  with  blue  flowers.  They  are  easily  increased  from  cut- 
tings in  the  Fall  months. 

SANGUINARIA  CANADENSIS  (Blood  Root)— A  dwarf-growing  native 
plant  that,  in  sunny  positions,  is  one  of  the  earliest  to  open  its  flowers, 
which  are  pure  white,  about  2  inches  across.  It  is  increased  from  seeds 
and  by  division. 


142  HARDY   PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

SANTOLINA  INCANA  (Cotton  Lavender)  is  a  dwarf,  shrubby  plant 
with  silvery-white  fragrant  foliage.  It  will  thrive  in  almost  any  posi- 
tion with  very  little  attention.  Cuttings  should  be  put  in  during  the 
first  half  of  October;  they  will  root  in  a  cold  frame. 

SAPONARIA  OFFICINALIS  (Bouncing  Bet.)— Naturalized  over  a  wide 
area  in  the  United  States.  The  flowers  are  usually  double.  S.  ocy- 
moides  is  one  of  the  best  rockwork  trailers.  It  passes  the  Winter  with 
a  mass  of  short  growths  near  the  crown;  these,  on  the  approach  of 
warm  weather,  grow  very  fast,  subsequently  forming  wide-spreadiog 
masses  of  light  or  dark  pink  flowers.  S.  o.  splendidissima  has  rosy- 
crimson  flowers.  The  plants  are  in  full  bloom  during  the  latter  part  of 
May,  with  scattering  flowers  for  a  long  time  after.  Seeds  should  be 
sown  in  September,  and  the  plants  wintered  in  a  frame.  Early  planting 
is  necessary. 

SARRACENIA  (Pitcher  Plant)— In  the  District  of  Columbia  the  only 
species  which  does  not  stand  the  Winter  out-of-doors  is  S.  Drummondii. 
S.  purpurea  is  the  hardiest  of  the  number  when  plants  are  obtained  from 
Northern  sources.  They  should  be  planted  in  a  mixture  of  peat,  sand 
and  moss,  and  the  surface  given  a  coating  of  moss,  which  must  be  kept 
damp,  especially  during  the  growing  season.  Pockets  of  suitable  soil 
should  be  made  for  them  at  the  margins  of  artificial  lakes  and  ponds. 

SAXIFRAQA  (Saxifrage)— The  extremes  of  temperature  in  Summer 
and  Winter  work  havoc  with  the  great  majority  of  the  species,  especially 
those  of  the  mossy  and  encrusted  sections.  S.  peltata,  a  Californian 
species,  does  grandly  where  it  enjoys  moist  soil.  The  leaves  are  from  1 
to  2  feet  in  length.  The  plant  blooms  during  the  latter  part  of  April. 
S.  sarmentosa  (Aaron's  Beard),  a  Japanese  species,  has  withstood  the 
Winters  here  for  a  long  number  of  years.  The  foliage  is  handsome,  even 
in  midwinter.  There  is  a  form  with  the  leaves  beautifully  marked  with 
creamy-white  and  red.  The  section  to  which  S.  ligulata  belongs  has 
some  exceedingly  handsome  species,  among  which  are  S.  purpurascens, 
flo  .vering  in  May.  S.  cordifolia,  with  bright  pink  flowers,  is  frequently 
seen  here  peeping  through  the  snow.  S.  crassifolia  is  another  early 
bloomer.    All  of  them  are  easy  to  increase  by  division. 

SCUTELLAR.IA  (SkuINCap)- A  rather  large  genus,  embracing  stove, 
greenhouse  and  hardy  species.  S.  macrantha  is  one  of  the  best  for  out- 
door use.  The  stems  are  at  first  procumbent,  the  flower  spikes  ascend- 
ing Our  hot,  dry  Summers  suit  this  plant  well.  It  blooms  during 
July  and  August.  The  flowers  are  purplish-blue,  and  are  produced  in 
great  abundance.  It  grows  about  a  foot  high.  Increased  from  seed.  S. 
japonica  does  equally  as  well  as  S.  macrantha;  the  flowers  are  much 
smaller.  In  S.  orientalis  the  flowers  are  yellow;  the  plant  grows  from 
9  inches  to  1  foot  high. 

SEDUM  (Stonecrop)— Many  of  the  species  differ  from  each  other  in 
habit;  some  of  them  are  herbaceous  plants.  S.  spectabile  grows  2  feet 
high,  forming  large  and  neat  clumps;  flowers  pink.  S.  Maximowiczii  is 
an  erect  growing  species,  about  1  foot  in  height,  with  yellow  flowers. 
S.  maximum,  a  very  variable  species,  sometimes  attains  a  height  of  2V^ 


HARDY  PERENNIAL   PLANTS.  143 

feet.  S.  Sieboldii  is  quite  hardy  in  this  locality;  it  makes  a  fine  plant 
for  pots  or  baskets,  but  it  does  not  associate  well  with  other  plants  in 
the  same  receptacle.  S.  acre,  S.  a.  aureum  and  S.sexangulare  form  dense 
growths  from  2  to  3  inches  in  height.  The  yellow  flowers  are  produced 
in  great  abundance  about  the  beginning  of  June ;  their  mossy-like  growths 
are  attractive  all  the  year  round.  S.  spurium  (S.  stoloniferum )  has  very 
handsome  pink  flowers,  produced  sparingly  from  midsummer  till  late  in 
Fall.    All  of  the  species  named  are  increased  by  division. 

SEMPERVIVUM  (Houseleek)— Dwarf  succulent  plants,  well  suited  for 
dry,  exposed  positions  in  the  rockery.  The  hardy  species  are  easily  in- 
creased by  division.  S.  tectorum  is  the  species  commonly  grown.  S. 
arachnoideum  has  small  rosettes  of  leaves  connected  at  the  tips  by  a 
cobweb-like  formation.  Other  well  known  species  are  S.  californicum, 
S.  Funckii,  S.  hirtum  and  S.  soboliferum.  They  will  thrive  in  almost 
any  kind  of  soil. 

SILENE  (Catchfly)— Among  this  very  large  genus  there  are  three  per- 
ennial species,  each  one  growing  only  a  few  inches  tall,  which  are  among 
our  finest  rockwork  plants.  S.  Schafta  has  bright  purple  flowers;  it  is 
a  very  deep  rooting  species,  and  stands  dry  weather  well,  keeping  in 
bloom  for  several  months.  It  can  be  raised  from  seed;  or  old  plants 
divide  well  in  October.  Dig  up  the  plant  carefully,  saving  all  of  the 
roots,  and  in  dividing  give  each  piece  as  much  root  as  possible;  put  in 
pots  and  keep  in  a  cold  frame  for  the  Winter.  S.  alpestris  is  a  neat 
growing  little  plant  with  white  flowers;  easily  raised  from  seeds.  S. 
maritima  forms  a  dense  carpet  of  growth,  the  branches  from  a  single 
plant  covering  a  large  surface.  The  flowers  are  white  and  are  rather 
showy;  they  last  only  a  short  time,  however.  The  foliage  is  handsome 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  being  very  neat  and  of  a  whitish  cast. 
Seeds  ripen  in  abundance;  they  should  be  sown  early  in  September. 

SPIR/EA  (fleadow  Sweet,  Goat's  Beard)— There  are  several  very 
handsome  herbaceous  plants  in  this  genus;  all  of  them  are  of  easy  culti- 
vation. They  are  best  increased  by  division  either  in  Fall  or  early  in 
Spring.  S.  aruncus  is  a  variable  species;  the  plant  found  in  the  Eastern 
States  seems  much  more  dwarf  than  the  one  commonly  cultivated  in 
European  gardens.  To  grow  this  plant  to  best  advantage  it  should  be 
given  an  isolated  position.  It  usually  attains  a  height  of  from  3  to  6 
feet,  according  to  variety.  S.  astilboides  is  dwarfer  than  the  above 
named;  flowers  white,  borne  in  dense  panicles.  S.  filipendula  is  a  valu- 
able rockwork  plant,  the  finely  cut  leaves  remaining  green  all  the  year 
round.  The  flowers,  especially  those  of  the  double  variety,  are  showy. 
S.  palmata  is  without  question  one  of  the  handsomest  flowered  herba- 
ceous plants  in  cultivation,  but  unfortunately  other  worthless  kinds  are 
often  sold  for  it.  The  flowers  are  bright  crimson,  in  large  panicles;  the 
leaves  are  palmately  five  to  seven-lobed.  S.  ulmaria  (Queen  of  the 
Meadow)  has  creamy  white,  very  fragrant  flowers.  The  plant  grows 
from  2  to  4  feet  high,  and,  like  all  of  the  others,  it  delights  in  damp  soil, 
with  partial  shade  during  midday.  They  are  all  best  increased  by 
division. 


144  HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

STACHYS  LANATA  (Hedge  Nettle)— This  plant  is  a  valuable  one  for 
hot,  dry  situations  and  for  planting  under  trees.  The  flowers  may  be  cut 
off  as  they  make  their  appearance,  as  it  is  the  foliage  which  is  the  most 
ornamental.  The  leaves  are  covered  with  a  wood-like  substance,  im- 
parting a  whitish  appearance  to  the  plant.  Increased  by  division  at 
almost  any  time  in  Spring. 

STATICE  (Sea  Lavender)— Several  species  do  well  here  as  border 
plants.  They  need  sandy  soil  with  a  little  peat  or  leaf  soil  added.  S. 
elata,  S.  eximia,  S.  tatarica  augustifolia  and  S.  latifolia  are  all  good 
kinds.    They  are  raised  from  seeds. 

TANACETUM  VULQARE  (Tansy)— There  is  little  in  this  subject  to 
recommend  it,  beyond  its  habit  of  keeping  green  and  fresh-looking  during 
the  Summer.  It  is  a  favorite  cottage  garden  plant.  The  flowers  and 
foliage  are  very  fragrant.  The  variety  with  curled  leaves  is  rather  orna- 
mental.   Increased  by  division. 

THYMUS  (Thyme) — T.  Chamaedrys  lanuginosus  and  T.  serpyllum  are 
well  suited  for  growing  in  dry  and  exposed  parts  of  the  rockery.  They 
are  low-growing  and  wide-spreading  plants,  with  small  leaves  and 
flowers.  T.  s.  vulgaris  is  the  Lemon  Thyme,  a  highly  fragrant  and 
ornamental  plant,  growing  from  8  inches  to  1  foot  high.  Well  colored 
pieces  of  this  should  be  rooted  in  Autumn;  the  other  kinds  are  raised 
from  seed. 

TIARELLA  CORDIFOLIA  (False  Hitrewort)— A  native  species,  well 
suited  for  shady  spots  in  the  front  part  of  the  herbaceous  border,  or  on 
the  rockery.  It  blooms  early,  and  throws  out  numerous  runners  after 
flowering,  providing  a  ready  means  of  propagation. 

TRICYRTIS  HIRTA  (Japanese  Toad=LiIy)— This  curious  but  beautiful 
plant  is  the  latest  of  the  hardy  herbaceous  plants  to  come  in  flower  with 
us.  It  usually  blooms  in  October  and  November.  During  Summer  the 
foiiage  is  quite  ornamental.  The  individual  flowers,  of  which  there  are 
many  on  a  stalk,  are  shaped  like  those  of  a  lily,  only  much  smaller.  The 
divisions  of  the  flower  are  pinkish-white  spotted  with  purple.  This  sub- 
ject should  be  planted  in  moist  soil,  or  where  a  mulch  can  be  given,  in 
order  to  preserve  the  foliage  till  the  blooming  period.  The  plant  divides 
easily,  or  cuttings  may  be  made  from  the  flowering  stems  and  put  in  a 
cold  frame  late  in  the  season. 

VALLORADIA  (Plumbago)  PLUHBAGINOIDES— A  hardy  species,  with 
deep  blue  flowers,  growing  to  a  height  of  one  foot.  It  blooms  from  July 
till  freezing  weather.  Propagation  is  effected  by  division.  The  plants 
should  be  lifted  during  the  first  half  of  September,  the  shoots  shortened 
back,  and  several  pieces  put  together  in  4-inch  pots,  saving  as  many  of 
the  creeping  underground  stems  as  possible.  Keep  plunged  in  a  cold 
frame  for  the  Winter.  If  a  large  number  of  plants  is  wanted  those  in 
pots  may  be  divided  again  during  the  end  of  April,  and  each  piece  put 
into  a  3  inch  pot.  They  will  flower  at  the  proper  season  if  planted  out 
by  the  end  of  May. 


HARDY  PERENNIAL    PLANTS.  145 

VERBASCUM  (Mullein)  — V.  olympicum  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  a 
large  number  of  species.  It  grows  from  4  to  6  feet  high.  Although  a 
perennial,  it  is  best  treated  as  a  biennial.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
August  or  September.  It  is  a  good  plant  for  the  back  part  of  a  sunny- 
border. 

VERONICA  (Speedwell) — A  large  genus,  including  a  number  of  shrubby 
species,  principally  from  New  Zealand.  There  are  only  a  few  herbaceous 
species  which  are  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  garden,  as  the  majority  are 
of  a  weedy  appearance  and  last  only  a  very  short  time  in  bloom.  V. 
gentianoides  attains  a  height  of  12  inches  when  in  bloom.  There  is  a 
handsome  variegated  form,  the  flowers  of  which  should  be  removed,  as 
this  tends  to  induce  growth  at  the  base.  V.  incana  has  whitish  foliage 
and  deep  blue  flowers;  it  is  best  raised  from  seeds.  V.  amethystina  is 
one  of  the  best  of  the  tall  herbaceous  kinds,  growing  about  18  inches 
high.  V.  taurica,  V.  Teucrium,  V.  prostrata  and  V.  satureioides  are  first- 
class  rockery  plants,  which  should  be  increased  by  division  early  in  the 
season. 

VINCA  (Periwinkle)— V.  herbacea  loses  its  foliage  in  the  Fall.  In  April 
it  makes  short  flowering  growths,  followed  later  by  long  vine-like 
shoots,  which  take  root  at  the  extremities  and  form  new  plants.  It 
thrives  well  in  full  sun.  V.  minor,  the  commonest  kind,  has  blue  flowers, 
also  double  blue,  double  purple,  single  white  and  variegated  leaved 
forms.  It  is  much  used  in  planting  among  shrubbery  and  for  covering 
shady  spots  under  trees.  It  will  thrive  in  almost  any  position,  and 
takes  possession  of  the  gro'und  to  the  exclusion  of  most  other  herbaceous 
perennials. 

VIOLA  (Violet)— V.  odorata  is  the  parent  of  the  numerous  single  and 
double  forms  which  are  grown  for  their  flowers  in  Winter  and  Spring. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings  and  division  of  the  old  plants. 
From  the  nature  of  the  species  the  method  of  building  up  a  plant  from 
the  cutting,  or  runner,  is  the  surest  way  of  obtaining  free  growing, 
healthy  specimens.  The  plants  send  out  runners,  and  those  intended  for 
propagation  should  be  allowed  to  develop  to  a  certain  extent.  In  the 
latter  half  of  February,  and  during  March,  they  are  taken  off  and  either 
inserted  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  cool  house  or  dibbled  in  boxes  of  sand  and 
kept  under  conditions  favorable  to  rooting.  When  rooted  they  are  put 
in  2-inch  pots.  After  the  roots  show  on  the  outside  of  the  ball  they  are 
given  a  shift  into  3-inch  pots  and  placed  in  cold  frames,  affording  abundant 
ventilation  and  shaded  either  with  naphtha  and  white  lead,  or  with 
lath  slats.  In  this  section  the  plants  are  given  their  Winter  quarters  in 
June.  They  are  largely  grown  in  frames  from  which  frost  is  excluded 
by  banking  the  outside  with  stable  litter  level  with  the  sash,  and  run- 
ning at  least  one  li/^-inch  heating  pipe  in  the  front  or  back  part  of  the 
frame.  But  even  under  those  conditions  the  flower  crop  is  not  continu- 
ous during  very  severe  weather.  In  planting  in  benches,  or  beds,  the 
operation  is  usually  completed  by  June  is.  Benches  are  used  with 
about  5  inches  of  soil.  Narrow  and  low-roofed,  equal-span  houses,  run- 
ning east  and  west,  with  the  benches  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  pro- 
duce satisfactory  results.    Houses  of  the  same  order  running  north  and 


146  HARDY    PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

south  do  not  produce  as  many  nor  as  good  blooms  during  midwinter. 
The  temperature  is  safe  for  the  plants  as  long  as  frost  is  excluded,  but 
10  degrees  above  the  freezing  point  should  be  the  minimum  for  continu- 
ous flowering.  In  Winter  the  teipperature  may  rise  to  from  55  to  60 
degrees.  Airing  must  be  carefully  attended  to  so  as  to  maintain  a  cool, 
dry  atmosphere.  A  hot,  moist,  stagnant  atmosphere  supplies  perfect 
conditions  for  weak,  sickly  growth,  and  is  certain  to  encourage  the 
development  of  fungoid  diseases.  The  soil  should  be  loamy,  mixed  with 
at  least  a  sixth  of  rotted  cow  manure  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  pure 
bone  meal.  After  planting  the  glass  is  shaded  with  turpentine  or  naph- 
tha and  white  lead,  allowing  full  ventilation.  Water  only  when  moder- 
ately dry.  In  August,  or  beginning  of  September,  the  plants  should 
get  a  shallow  mulch  of  leaf  soil  mixed  with  dried  horse  manure.  All 
leaves  which  show  the  least  signs  of  decay  should  be  removed  and 
burned.  During  Summer,  syringing  should  be  attended  to  frequently,  for 
the  purpose  of  ridding  the  plants  of  red  spider,  their  greatest  enemy.  For 
this  purpose  the  water  must  be  applied  with  considerable  force  to  the 
lower  surfaces  of  the  leaves.  The  plants  can,  however,  be  kept  tolerably 
free  of  this  pest  if  proper  growing  conditions  are  supplied,  as  red  spider 
is  only  found  on  plants  which  are  enfeebled  through  some  cause.  When 
syringing  is  to  be  done  it  should  be  attended  to  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  and  in  bright  weather,  so  that  ventilation  may  be  relied  upon  to 
dry  the  foliage  before  night — a  most  essential  item.  For  ridding  the 
plants  of  aphides,  the  use  of  hydrocyanic  acid  gas  is  much  preferable  to 
tobacco  in  any  of  its  forms,  as  it  leaves  no  objectionable  odor. 

Leaf  Spot— When  this,  the  most  dreaded  of  the  fungoid  diseases, 
appears,  the  leaves  should  immediately  be  picked  off  and  burned,  for  by 
being  allowed  to  continue  on  the  plant  the  fungus  will  ripen  its  spores 
and  spread  to  other  leaves.  It  is  present  more  or  less  in  all  houses,  and 
is  only  kept  under  control  by  supplying  favorable  conditions  for  the 
growth  of  the  plants.  When  grown  outdoors  or  in  frames  without  pro- 
tection the  leaves  are  apt  to  suffer  from  too  much  moisture  in  the  shape 
of  dew.  This  condition  is  very  favorable  for  the  increase  of  spot.  There 
are  several  other  more  or  less  hurtful  fungoid  diseases  which  can  only  be 
guarded  against  by  giving  the  plants  proper  treatment,  and  their  rav- 
ages curtailed  by  picking  off  and  burning  the  infected  parts.  Very  weak 
liquid  cow  manure  may  be  afforded  occasionally  if  the  plants  are  in  need 
of  a  stimulant. 

Hardy  Violas— Among  the  hardy  Violas  V.  cucculata  is  the  species 
most  frequently  grown  in  gardens.  It  often  becomes  a  troublesome 
weed,  and  keeps  on  producing  apetalous  flowers  long  after  the  long- 
stemmed  showy  blooms  are  gone,  and  from  the  short-stalked  apetalous 
flowers  large  capsules  of  seed  follow  in  almost  every  instance.  V.  pedata, 
and  its  forms,  are  among  the  earliest  of  our  native  species  to  bloom.  V. 
blanda  has  pure  white  flowers,  growing  in  dense  tufts;  this  species 
delights  in  sandy  soil. 


147 


Hardy  Shrubs* 


ABGLIA  RUPESTRIS  (Rock  Abelia).— This  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing 
and  satisfactory  of  all  flowering  shrubs.  It  is  not  reliably  hardy  north 
of  Washington,  but  for  the  Southern  States  it  is  equally  as  desirable  as 
the  Crape  Myrtle  (Lagerstroemia).  In  Washington,  during  the  very 
severe  Winter  of  1898  and  1899,  the  Abeha  escaped  with  only  the  ends 
of  the  branches  killed.  It  blooms  from  midsummer  till  frost.  The 
flowers  are  usually  to  be  seen  on  the  plants  up  to  the  end  of  November. 
It  propagates  freely  from  cuttings  put  in  during  October  and  November. 
Select  them  from  the  tips  of  the  shoots;  make  them  about  4  inches  in 
length,  put  them  close  together  in  boxes  of  sand;  place  in  the  coolest 
house  and  shade  from  bright  sunshine.  By  the  beginning  of  January 
the  batch  should  be  gone  over,  as  by  that  time  many  of  the  cuttings  will 
have  rooted.  Those  which  have  a  sufficient  number  of  roots  may  be  put 
In  thumb  pots  in  the  usual  way,  but  in  cases  where  only  one  or  two 
roots  appear  the  plants  are  best  placed  in  the  sides  of  the  pots,  as  in  that 
position  they  make  roots  more  freely  than  when  in  the  center.  In  a 
short  time  they  will  have  made  growth  enough  tu  be  shifted  into  3- 
inch  pots,  and  before  the  time  comes  when  the  houses  are  crowded  with 
Spring  stock  they  maybe  transferred  to  the  cold  frame.  This  shrub,  it 
may  be  added,  is  one  of  the  very  best  for  planting  in  cemeteries.  Where 
the  weather  is  not  too  severe  it  is  evergreen;  grows  only  to  a  moderate 
height  and  bears  white  flowers  in  gfeat  abundance. 

ACER  PALMATUM  and  A.  JAPONICUM  (Japanese  Maples).— Most  of 
the  Japanese  Maples  have  very  handsomely  cut  leaves,  and  especially 
during  Spring  and  early  Summer  they  are  very  highly  colored.  The 
specimens  usually  seen  are  from  3  to  8  feet  high.  The  species  from 
which  the  varieties  have  sprung  attain  a  height  of  20  feet.  All  of  them 
are  very  hardy,  and  should  be  planted  in  sunny  positions  so  that  they 
have  freedom  to  develop  into  symmetrical  specimens.  They  should  not 
be  planted  in  shade,  or  even  partial  shade,  on  account  of  losing  their 
color  early  in  the  season.  Some  of  the  varieties  known  as  A.  palmatum 
atropurpureum,  A.  p.  dissectum  and  A.  p.  sanguineum  set  seeds  freely 
and  produce  plants  like  the  parents;  these  seedlings  are  much  more  vig- 
orous than  grafted  plants.  From  old  plants  of  A.  palmatum  seedlings 
are  raised  on  which  the  finer  varieties  are  grafted.  Veneer  grafting  is 
the  system  most  commonly  employed. 

AMORPHA  FRUTICOSA  (Bastard  Indigo).— A  pretty  and  interesting 
shrub.  The  leaves  are  pinnate  and  at  a  distance  have  a  feathery  ap- 
pearance. The  flowers,  arranged  in  spikes,  are  very  dark  purple.  It  is 
propagated  by  seeds,  also  by  green  or  hard  wood  cuttings. 

ARALIA  JAPONICA  (Angelica  Tree).— This  with  A.  Mandshurica  and 
A.  spinosa,  have  very  large  bipinnate  leaves  and  stout  prickly  stems. 
They  are  useful  for  permanent  positions  where  a  sub-tropical  effect  is 
desired.    They  are  propagated  by  taking  roots  and  cutting  them  into 


148  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

pieces  about  3  inches  in  length,  starting  them  during  Spring,  in  sand  or 
moss.  A.  pentaphylla  is  a  dwarf  shrub,  with  small  palmate  leaves; 
does  well  in  shade.    It  may  be  increased  like  the  above,  or  from  seeds. 

AUCUBA  JAPONICA.— A  dwarf  evergreen  shrub  belonging  to  the  Dog- 
wood family.  It  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  evergreens  for  the  warmer 
parts  of  the  country.  While  frequently  hurt  by  late  frosts  in  this 
locality,  it  is  only  the  imperfectly  ripened  ends  of  the  previous  season's 
shoots  which  suffer.  In  the  Fall  those  shoots  which  are  likely  to  get 
hurt  make  good  material  for  cuttings.  They  may  be  made  quite  large; 
pieces  8  or  10  inches  long  will  root  easily  in  the  cold  propagating  house. 
The  roots  emitted  from  the  cuttings  are  thick  and  easily  broken,  and  if 
left  for  any  length  of  time  in  the  sand  bed,  or  boxes,  after  the  roots  are 
about  2  inches  long,  they  are  diflScult  to  handle  successfully.  Some  of 
the  varieties  of  this  plant  are  almost  as  handsome  as  the  Crotons  for 
decorative  work,  and  as  a  berry-bearing  plant  it  has  not  had  the  atten- 
tion it  deserves.  The  sexes  are  on  separate  plants.  They  flower  early 
in  Spring.  A  branch  of  the  staminate  plant,  when  the  pollen  is  in  suita- 
ble condition,  if  carefully  shaken  over  the  pistillate  flowers  on  a  calm, 
sunny  day,  will  almost  certainly  insure  a  crop  of  the  large,  bright  red 
berries.  In  favorable  situations  the  berries  last  in  good  condition 
through  the  following  Winter.  Some  of  the  better  known  kinds  are  A.  j. 
aurea,  A.  j.  albo-variegata,  A.  j.  bicolor,  A.  j.  latimaculata,  A.  j.  macro- 
phylla,  A.  j.  ovata,  A.  j.  longifolia,  A.  j.  limbata  and  A.  j.  pygmaea 
sulphurea. 

AZALEA.— The  deciduous  species  and  varieties,  including  the  Chinese 
species  (A.  mollis),  and  the  Ghent  Azaleas,  which  are  hybrids  between  A. 
pontica,  the  American  species,  and  A.  mollis,  are  veell-known  flowering 
shrubs.  The  species  are  raised  from  seeds,  and  the  seedlings  are  used  as 
stocks  on  vs'hich  to  graft  the  finer  varieties.  It  does  not  pay  to  raise 
these  plants  in  small  quantities  as  they  are  supplied  by  dealers  at  low 
prices.  The  evergreen  species  include  the  well-known  A.  indica,  several 
of  the  varietias  of  which  are  successfully  grown  out  of  doors  from  New 
York  southward.  In  Washington  some  large  plants  have  stood  out  un- 
harmed for  over  20  years.  A.  amcena,  an  allied  species,  is  probably  the 
hardiest  of  this  section.  The  color  of  the  flowers  is  a  rich  rosy -crimson. 
For  pot  culture  it  does  not  approach  in  beauty  the  forms  of  the  Indian 
Azalea,  but  for  outdoor  planting  in  the  colder  sections  it  is  more  to  be 
depended  on.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken  about  the  beginning  of  No- 
vember; at  that  time  numerous  strong  shoots  with  small  rosettes  of 
leaves  on  the  ends  will  be  found  above  the  main  body  of  the  bush.  These 
make  the  best  cuttings;  lengths  of  about  4  inches  will  suffice.  They 
should  be  inserted  close  together  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  cool  house.  The 
roots  which  they  emit  are  exceedingly  fine.  Previous  to  potting,  if 
watered  well  before  lifting,  a  small  quantity  of  sand  will  adhere  to  the 
roots.  The  plants  should  be  potted  in  the  smallest-sized  pots,  using 
finely  sifted  sandy  soil,  with*at  least  half  of  its  bulk  leaf  mould  or  peat. 
Owing  to  the  low  price  of  imported  plants  of  Indian  Azaleas,  it  is  gen- 
erally conceded  that  it  is  cheaper  to  buy  than  to  raise  plants.  This  is 
no  doubt  true  of  the  finer  and  slow  growing  kinds,  which  are  propagated 


HARDY    SHRUBS.  149 

by  grafting  on  the  strong  growing  varieties,  and  also  on  some  species 
of  Rhododendron.  This  is  done  in  Winter  and  also  when  the  growth  is 
ripe  later  in  the  year.  Some  of  the  strong  growing  forms,  especially 
those  having  single  white  and  red  flowers,  are,  however,  hardy,  and 
for  planting  out  they  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings.  Plants  raised  in 
this  way  have  a  more  natural  appearance  than  when  grown  as  stand- 
ards, in  which  shape  they  are  usually  imported.  The  cuttings  should  be 
put  in  the  sand  of  a  cool  propagating  house  by  the  middle  of  August; 
the  roots  being  small  will  need  fine  soil  of  a  peaty  nature  for  the  first 
potting.  In  this  operation  use  clean  thumb  pots;  put  the  pots  in 
water  before  using  so  as  to  absorb  as  much  as  possible.  Instead  of 
placing  the  rooted  cutting  in  the  middle  of  the  pot  put  it  at  the  side; 
this  will  facilitate  rooting.  At  the  next  potting  it  is  an  easy  matter  to 
have  the  plant  in  the  center  of  the  pot.  In  planting  out-of-doors  it  must 
be  remembered  that  they  will  not  stand  drought,  so  they  must  not  be 
left  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The  soil  should  be  prepared  to  a  depth 
of  at  least  18  inches.  It  may  consist  of  loam,  leaf  mould  and  sand,  in 
about  equal  parts.  The  plants  should  be  planted  moderately  close 
together  so  that  the  foliage  will  keep  the  sun  from  the  soil;  but  to 
insure  moisture  they  should  always  be  mulched  during  Spring  and  Sum- 
mer, and  frequently  watered  during  dry  spells.  Digging,  or  deep  hoeing, 
should  never  be  practiced,  as  the  roots  are  almost  certain  to  be  injured 
thereby. 

BERBERIS  THUNBERQI  (Barberry).— A  Japanese  species  growing 
from  3  to  6  feet  high;  by  far  the  most  ornamental  of  the  deciduous 
kinds.  It  is  very  symmetrical,  seldom  needing  the  aid  of  the  knife  to 
keep  it  in  shape.  It  loses  its  foliage  in  the  late  Fall,  but  during  the 
Winter  and  up  till  the  time  when  the  new  leaves  expand,  the  bushes 
usually  present  a  very  pretty  appearance  from  the  small  but  very 
numerous  fruits.  The  readiest  method  of  increase  is  from  seeds,  which 
should  be  collected  when  the  leaves  fall,  gently  rubbed  between  the 
hands  to  bruise  the  covering,  and  sown  in  sandy  loam,  in  shallow  boxes, 
making  the  soil  firm.  If  placed  in  the  cool  greenhouse  they  will  germi- 
nate uniformly,  and  by  the  end  of  the  first  year  they  should  be  over  a  foot 
high.    This  is  a  species  well  adapted  for  ornamental  hedge  work. 

B.  vulgaris  is  the  common  Barberry.  It  has  rather  ornamental  yel- 
low flowers,  in  May  or  June,  followed  by  bright  red  fruits,  which 
remain  on  the  bush  during  Winter.  There  are  numerous  varieties;  one 
named  B.  v.  atropurpurea  has  purple-colored  leaves.  B.  amurensis  var, 
japonica  and  B.  sinensis  are  also  good  deciduous  kinds.  Among  the 
evergreen  species  B.  Fremontii,  while  tender  further  North,  thrives  well 
here.  It  has  small  glaucous  leaves.  Increased  by  Fall  cuttings  in  a  cold 
frame.  B.  stenophylla  has  small,  simple  leaves.  B.  (Mahonia)  pinnata 
thrives  here  only  in  sheltered  positions.  B.  (m.)  japonica,  B.  (m.)  nepa- 
lensis,  and  B.  (m.)  aquifolium  are  all  well-known  evergreen  shrubs, 
thriving  in  this  section  even  in  the  most  exposed  positions.  The  flowers 
are  produced  early  in  the  season,  followed  by  handsome  clusters  of  fruits 
which  ripen  during  the  latter  part  of  May  and  June.  The  plants  are 
easily  raised  from  seeds. 


150  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

CALLICARPA.— The  species  of  this  genus  are  grown  solely  on  account 
of  their  beautiful  fruits,  which  are  quite  small,  but  produced  in  abun- 
dance. The  color  of  the  fruit  is  bright  violet.  In  northern  latitudes  the 
branches  are  apt  to  get  Winter-killed,  but  new  growths  are  produced, 
and  these  flower  and  fruit  the  same  season.  C.  purpurea  and  C.  Japonica 
are  the  two  species  most  worthy  of  cultivation.  C.  japonica  is  the 
hardiest  of  all  the  species.  Propagation  is  easiest  accomplished  by 
taking  cuttings  of  the  half-ripe  wood  and  rooting  them  indoors. 

CALYCANTHUS  (Sweet  Scented  Shrub).— Of  this  genus  there  are  four 
well-known  species— C.  occidentalis,  C.  laevigatus,  C.  glaucus  and  C. 
floridus.  The  last  named  is  the  most  common  in  gardens,  and  has 
several  varieties.  They  vary  in  height  from  3  to  12  feet;  C.  occidentalis 
being  the  tallest  and  also  the  most  tender,  sometimes  suffers  severely 
in  this  locality.  All  of  the  species  are  prized  by  some  on  account  of  the 
vinous  fragrance  of  the  flowers,  which  are  dark  claret  in  color.  C.  occi- 
dentalis and  C.  floridus  bear  seeds  freely,  which  take  only  a  short  time  in 
germinating  after  being  sown.  The  seeds  may  be  kept  in  their  capsules 
during  Winter  and  sown  in  a  frame  during  the  first  half  of  April.  The 
seed  leaves  are  very  large,  disturbing  the  surface  soil  a  good  deal  in 
unfolding,  therefore  the  seed  should  be  sown  thinly.  The  seedlings  may 
be  allowed  to  remain  a  year  in  their  germinating  quarters  before  being 
transplanted.    Plants  are  also  secured  by  layering  the  branches. 

CARYOPTERIS  MASTACANTHUS  is  unmistakably  one  of  the  finest 
shrubs  introduced  in  recent  years.  It  was,  and  is,  sometimes  called  the 
Blue  Spiraea,  but  it  has  no  relation' to  that  genus,  as  it  is  a  near  relative 
of  the  chaste  tree  (Vitex)  which  is  among  those  plants  comprising  the 
Verbena  family.  The  Caryopteris  has  been  tried  for  several  years,  and 
in  Northern  sections,  owing  to  its  being  killed  to  the  ground  in 
Winter,  should  there  be  treated  more  as  an  herbaceous  plant  than  as  a 
shrub.  In  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia  and  favorable  positions  further 
North  it  has  come  out  all  riglit  through  recent  Winters.  In  Washington 
bushes  of  it  are  now  6  feet  high.  It  is  one  of  the  last  shrubs  to  come 
irto  flower,  opening  out  about  the  first  half  of  September  and  lasting 
several  weeks.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  fair-sized  heads  in  the  axils 
of  the  leaves  on  the  shoots  made  during  Summer;  the  color  is  bluish- 
purple  or  white.  Propagation  can  be  carried  on  at  any  time  during  the 
Summer  or  Fall,  preferably  during  the  latter  season,  for  which  prepara- 
tions should  be  made  some  time  in  advance  by  cutting  back  some  of  the 
stronger  shoots  to  induce  them  to  send  out  side  shoots.  The  blind  wood 
can  be  used  during  the  flowering  period.  As  soon  as  the  cuttings  are 
ready  for  removal  from  the  sand  they  can  either  be  potted  or  boxed  and 
stored  in  frames  for  the  Winter. 

CERASUS  LAUROCERASUS.— The  Cherry  Laurel  can  be  depended  upon 
as  a  hardy  shrub  in  ordinarily  well-sheltered  situations  south  of  Mason 
and  Dixon's  line.  In  the  grounds  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  and 
in  Capitol  Park  many  old  plants  have  stood  almost  unharmed  in  ex- 
posed places  for  years.  The  late  John  Saul,  of  Washington,  D.  C,  gave 
this  plant  a  good  deal  of  attention;  during  a  long  number  of  years  he 
made  a  collection  of  all  the  varieties  to  test  their  hardiness.   While  some 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  151 

varieties  suffered  with  the  thermometer  standing  at  10  degrees  F.  three 
or  four  were  left  untouched.  C.  latifolia.  C.  angustfolia  and  C.  eaucasiea 
are  the  hardiest.  In  situations  which  induce  growth  late  in  Summer,  or 
late  enough  not  to  ripen  thoroughly,  the  growths  are  almost  certain  to 
get  nipped  by  frost.  This  species  is  called"  the  English  Laurel;  it  is  not 
native  of  England,  but  of  the  Levant.  Propagation  is  effected  by  layers 
or  cuttings,  preferably  the  latter,  as  they  will  root  in  pretty  large  pieces 
— over  a  foot  in  length.  The  rarer  varieties  should  be  grafted  on  stocks 
of  the  common  one.  Cuttings  will  succeed  any  time  after  the  wood  is 
ripe;  a  piece  of  the  wood  of  the  preceding  year  attached  will  give  all  the 
better  results. 

CERCIS  JAPONICA  (Red  Bud,  Judas  Tree).— This  species  has  lighter 
colored  and  larger  flowers  than  either  the  American  or  European  spe- 
cies, C.  canadensis  and  C.  siliquastrum.  Some  of  the  original  plants 
brought  to  this  country  from  Japan  are  in  the  parks  at  Washington, 
and  seldom  does  a  season  pass  in  which  the  branches  are  not  completely 
hidden  by  the  flowers.  I  have  never  seen  it  ripen  seeds,  however,  and 
do  not  know  if  it  does  so  in  other  localities.  It  takes  kindly  to  layer- 
ing. The  other  species  seed  very  abundantly.  C.  japonica  in  this  locality 
does  not  grow  over  8  feet  in  height. 

CHIMONANTHUS  FRAGRANS  (Calycanthus  praecox).— The  flowers  of 
this  shrub  are  produced  on  the  wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth  long 
before  the  leaves  are  developed.  In  this  locality  it  often  blooms  duriug 
the  end  of  January.  It  is  not  reliably  hardy  north  of  Washington,  as 
all  of  our  plants  were  killed  to  the  snow  line  during  the  Winter  of  1898 
and  1899.  Previous  to  that  time  it  had  remained  unhurt  for  a  long 
number  of  years.  It  is  a  trifle  slow  to  increase  from  cuttings  of  the 
ripened  wood,  doing  better  from  the  half-ripe  wood,  with  the  foliage 
attached.  Large  plants  are  secured  in  a  short  period  by  layering  in 
midsummer.  The  species  and  its  variety  C.  f.  grandiflora  are  grown 
solely  on  account  of  the  wonderful  perfume  emitted  by  the  rather  incon- 
spicuous flowers.  Cut  in  the  bud  state  they  open  out  well  if  kept 
indoors  with  the  stems  in  water. 

CHIONANTHUS  VIRQINICA  (Fringe  Tree).— A  native  shrub  sometimes 
growing  to  a  height  of  30  feet;  but  specimens  will  give  an  abundance 
of  bloom  when  only  a  few  feet  high.  The  flowers  are  disposed  in  droop- 
ing panicles,  are  pure  white  in  color  and  very  graceful.  It  is  raised  from 
seed  and  by  budding  on  stocks  of  Fraxinus  ornus. 

CISTUS  VILLOSUS.— Plants  of  this  species  have  survived  the  past  two 
Winters  in  Washington,  during  which  we  frequently  had  zero  weather. 
For  the  Southern  States,  this  and  other  species  should  be  given  a  trial, 
as  they  are  very  handsome  shrubs,  with  large  white  or  purple  flowers, 
somewhat  resembling  a  single  rose.  Cuttings  root  freely,  under  cool 
treatment,  late  in  Summer. 

CITRUS  TRIFOLIATA.— As  a  dwarfing  stock  this  is  used  extensively 
for  budding  and  grafting  the  different  varieties  of  oranges,  and  for  a 
hedge  plant,  one  that  will  make  an  almost  impenetrable  barrier,  scarcely 
any  other  subject  will  answer  so  well.    But  its  usefulness  is  yet  by  no 


152  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

means  exhausted.  As  an  ornamental  shrub  it  makes  quite  an  effective 
appearance  early  in  the  season,  before  the  leaves  appear,  when  covered 
with  its  pure  white  flowers,  two  inches  in  diameter.  In  late  Summer 
and  Fall  the  branches  are  loaded  down  with  its  golden  fruit.  In  the 
grounds  of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  several  old 
plants  in  the  fruiting  stage  attract  great  attention  from  Northern 
visitors.  Its  propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  of  w^hich  there  is  a  plentiful 
supply;  sown  in  the  Fall  out-of-doors,  every  seed  will  germinate  after 
good  weater  sets  in.  During  some  seasons  this  species  bears  two  crops 
of  flowers— the  first  in  Spring,  the  second  along  about  the  month  of 
August.    The  second  crop  of  fruit  fails  to  ripen  before  cool  weather. 

CLERODENDRON  TRICHOTOMUM.— A  very  handsome,  free-flower- 
ing Japanese  species,  thoroughly  hardy  in  the  Middle  Atlantic  States; 
further  North,  although  annually  killed  to  the  ground,  it  makes  strong 
growths,  and  on  these  it  blooms  freely.  The  flowers  are  white  with  a 
dark  red  calyx.  Propagation  is  accomplished  by  cutting  up  and 
sprouting  the  roots.  The  plant  seems  to  delight  in  rather  dry  soil.  In 
dry  weather,  when  other  shrubs  suffer  for  ^want  of  water,  this  one  is 
always  fresh  and  green;  but  probably  this  is  caused  by  the  roots  going 
deep  into  the  soil.  C.  foetidum  is  not  so  hardy  as  the  above,  but  where 
the  crowns  can  be  saved  it  will  flower  splendidly  from  herbaceous 
stems.  It  is  one  of  the  best  shrubs  for  the  Southern  States.  It  sends 
up  many  shoots  from  underground  stems.  To  increase  it  in  quantity 
the  roots  and  underground  stems  should  be  dug  up,  cut  in  small  pieces, 
and  started  indoors  early  in  Spring. 

CORNUS  FLORIDA  (Flowering  Dogwood).— In  the  Southern  States  this 
Dogwood  grows  sometimes  30  to  40  feet  high;  further  North  it  is  a 
shrub  10  to  15  feet  high.  The  flowers  are  small,  greenish-yellow;  the 
bracts  are  very  large  and  pure  white.  It  blooms  in  early  Spring  before 
the  leaves  are  developed.  In  Autumn  a  well-fruited  bush,  with  its  red 
foliage,  is  a  most  beautiful  object.  C.  f.  rubra  is  a  rosy-pink  flowered 
variety  of  recent  introduction,  well  worthy  of  cultivation;  both  it  and 
the  type  should  be  planted  in  well-drained  situations.  They  are  increased 
by  budding  and  grafting  on  seedlings.  C.  sanguinea  has  dark  red 
branches— a  very  effective  plant  among  other  shrubs.  C.  candidissima 
and  C.  mas  are  commonly  grown,  the  former  for  its  flowers,  the  latter 
principally  for  its  fruits. 

COTONEASTER  MICROPHYLLA  is  a  dense,  low-growing,  evergreen 
shrub,  with  small  leaves  and  bright  red  fruits  that  remain  on  the  plants 
the  best  part  of  Winter.  It  is  propagated  best  by  taking  cuttings, 
about  6  inches  long,  and  rooting  them  indoors  in  August  or  September. 
C.  Simonsii  is  almost  evergreen  and  perfectly  hardy  south  of  New  York; 
its  bright  red  fruits  is  the  main  feature  of  the  plant. 

CRAT.^GUS  (Hawthorn).— There  are  numerous  American  species  cul- 
tivated as  shrubs,  or  dwarf  trees,  the  best  of  which  are  C.  coccinea,  the 
scarlet-fruited  Thorn,  and  C.  crus-galli,  the  Cockspur  Thorn.  Owing  to 
their  bright  red  fruits,  often  remaining  a  long  time  after  the  leaves  fall, 
they  are  valuable  decorative  subjects.  C.  oxyacantha  is  the  English 
Hawthorn;  the  many  kinds  grown,  and  which  are  known  asvarieties  of 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  153 

this  species,  make  very  symmetrical  specimens.  Ttiey  are  more  florifer- 
ous  ttian  the  American  liinds.  Some  of  the  best  are  C.  o.  alba-plena, 
double  white;  C  o.  punicea-plena,  double  scarlet;  C.  o.  bicolor,  pink 
edged  with  white;  C.  o.  rosea,  pink  with  white  claw.  They  are  increased 
by  budding  or  grafting  upon  seedlings  of  the  type.  The  seeds  do  not 
germinate  until  the  second  year  from  sowing,  consequently  they  should 
be  mulched  in  Summer  to  prevent  drying  out. 

C.  pyracantha  is  the  evergreen  Thorn.  The  fruits  are  the  principal 
decorative  feature  of  this  shrub;  they  are  of  a  beautiful  scarlet  color, 
remaining  on  the  branches  during  Winter.  C.  p.  Lelandi  has  bright 
orange-scarlet  fruit — a  very  ornamental  and  quick-growing  variety. 

CRYPTOMERIA  JAPONICA  (Japan  Cedar).— With  us  this  is  one  of  the 
most  satisfactory  of  the  evergreen  coniferae.  It  looks  well  in  a  5-inch  pot, 
and  from  that  to  a  specimen  30  feet  high.  It  varies  very  much,  there 
being  nearly  a  dozen  well-defined  varieties.  In  the  New  England  States  it 
is  not  thoroughly  at  home  as  a  tree,  and  this  condition  is  not  to  be  met 
with  until  we  get  as  far  South  as  Maryland.  As  a  pot-grown  plant  it 
is  very  little  inferior  to  the  costly  Norfolk  Island  Pine  ( Araucaria  ex- 
celsa,)  and  it  can  be  gotten  up  in  quantity  at  less  than  one-tenth  the 
cost  of  the  latter.  Cuttings  root  well  if  put  in  by  the  end  of  October,  in 
a  cool  sand  bed.  They  can  be  inserted  large  enough  so  that  by  the 
middle  of  May  following  they  will  be  ready  to  be  shifted  into  5-inch 
pots.  Although  plants  raised  from  cuttings  make  the  best  furnished 
plants  for  using  in  pots,  seedlings,  If  grown  on  without  a'check,  furnish 
plants  within  a  year  from  sowing,  which  will  not  look  too  small  in  5- 
inch  pots.  The  seed  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe,  which  it  usually  is 
about  October  15,  else  there  is  danger  of  it  being  lost  through  the  cones 
bursting  open,  the  seed  falling  out  through  a  little  disturbance  of  the 
branches.  For  sowing,  prepare  shallow  boxes  of  firmly  pressed  soil — 
loam,  leaf  mould  and  sand  in  equal  proportions  will  suit.  Sow  the  seed, 
not  too  thickly,  and  cover  with  half  an  inch  of  screened  leaf  soil  and 
sand;  put  near  the  glass  in  a  temperate  house.  They  will  germinate 
the  first  half  of  January,  and  can  remain  in  the  boxes,  if  not  sown  too 
thickly,  until  the  end  of  May.  Pot  off  singly  or  three  in  a  3-inch  pot  at 
first,  using  sandy  soil.  Keep  in  a  growing  temperature  until  they  are 
too  large  for  small  pots.  The  plants  will  stand  in  cold  frames  during 
the  Winter  in  most  places  without  hurt,  other  than  a  slightly  yellowish 
tinge  to  the  leaves,  but  where  they  are  wanted  to  make  marketable 
plants  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible  from  the  seedling  stage,  they  should 
be  kept  in  a  cool  house  where,  if  suitable  rooting  conditions  are  provided, 
they  will  make  rapid  progress  during  the  Winter  months. 

CYDONIA  JAPONICA  (Japanese  Quince).— The  common  form  will  give 
good  flowering  specimens  from  seed.  The  finer  varieties  may  be  grafted 
on  seedhngs  of  the  type.  Cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  taken  in  the  Fall  and 
stored  till  Spring  are  rooted  successfully.  It  is  also  raised  from  cuttings 
of  the  roots,  from  suckers  and  by  layering.  There  is  a  form  with  varie- 
gated leaves  and  pale  flowers,  also  a  pure  white  and  double  red.  They 
are  among  our  most  desirable  hardy  shrubs,  coming  into  bloom  along 
with  the  Forsythias  and  Jasminum  nudiflorum. 


154  BAMDY  SBRUBS. 

C.  Maulei  is  a  much  dwarfer  species,  with  reddish  flowers  produced 
in  great  abundance.  C.  M.  superba  has  the  flowers  of  a  deeper  shade  of 
red.    C.  M.  tricolor  has  the  leaves  variegated  with  pink  and  white. 

DAPHNE  CNEORUM.— A  hardy  dwarf  evergreen  trailing  shrub  growing 
not  more  than  a  foot  high.  It  flowers  in  April  and  May;  the  color  is 
dull  pink.  It  makes  a  neat  symmetrical  plant,  with  very  sweet-scented 
flowers.  It  is  rather  slow  to  increase  from  cuttings.  The  best  method 
of  propagation  is  to  layer  the  trailing  branches  in  Spring,  making  an  in- 
cision, or  tongue,  in  the  under  part  of  the  stem.  Have  the  cut  part  at 
least  2  inches  under  the  soil;  secure  with  wooden  pegs;  press  the  soil 
firmly  over  it,  and  cover  with  sphagnum  to  insure  moisture.  Leave 
until  the  following  Spring  before  separating  from  the  parent  plant.  D. 
Blagayana  is  also  a  desirable  hardy  trailing  species,  not  so  well  known 
as  the  above.  D.  Mezereum,  a  hardy  deciduous  species,  Is  sometimes 
used  for  forcing,  more  on  account  of  the  fragrant  flowers  than  for  their 
appearance.  It  is  raised  from  seed,  and  its  forms  grafted  on  seedhngs  of 
the  type.  D.  odora,  D.  o.  marginata  and  D.  o.  alba  make  very  satisfac- 
tory growth  in  sheltered  positions  out-of-doors  here,  but  it  may  be 
stated  that  the  plants  were  imported  direct  from  Japan.  I  have  tried 
greenhouse-grown  plants  in  similar  situations  with  unfavorable  results. 
D.  pontica  and  D.  laureola  are  perfectly  hardy  here,  but  they  do  best  with 
partial  shade  in  Summer.    The  last  named  is  scentless. 

DEUTZIA  SCABRA.— -A  very  free  growing  and  handsome  flowered 
shrub  from  China  and  Japan.  It  blooms  according  to  locality  in  May 
and  June.  In  Washington  it  reaches  a  height  of  8  feet.  It  blooms  on 
short  growths  made  on  the  previous  season's  wood.  D.  s.  crenata  is  a 
form  with  smoother  leaves  than  the  type.  There  are  several  other 
varieties  with  double  flowers  more  or  less  tinged  with  rose.  D.  c.  Pride 
of  Rochester  has  the  flowers  large  and  double  white.  In  the  Northern 
States  they  should  be  planted  in  protected  situations.  It  is  among  the 
easiest  shrubs  to  propagate.  The  cuttings  are  taken  after  the  leaves 
f-'ll  from  the  current  year's  growths;  they  should  be  tied  in  bunches  and 
heeled  in  moss  ia  a  cold  frame.  In  early  Spring  they  are  put  in  boxes  of 
sand,  with  a  little  soil  at  the  bottom,  and  kept  in  a  greenhouse.  When 
rooted  they  are  hardened  off  and  planted  out  in  rows,  where  they  will 
make  fair-sized  plants  before  the  growing  season  is  over.  These  plants 
make  splendid  growth  in  tubs,  and  are  easily  forced  into  bloom  for  the 
decoration  of  large  conservatories.  D.  gracilis  has  never  been  known  to 
suffer  from  cold  weather  in  this  latitude,  and  it  is  said  to  stand  the  Win- 
ter, when  in  sheltered  positions,  in  the  Northern  States.  As  it  blooms 
on  short  growths  made  on  the  wood  of  the  previous  season,  the  plant 
would  be  of  no  service  where  its  branches  are  apt  to  get  winter-killed. 
It  is  one  of  the  grandest  of  our  dwarf  flowering  shrubs,  blooming  in 
Washington  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  May,  and  growing  from  2  to  3 
feet  high.  It  is  well  suited  for  planting  in  cemeteries.  For  forcing  into 
bloom,  it  is  an  easy  subject.  The  plants  may  be  lifted  from  the  open 
ground  as  late  as  the  weather  will  permit.  They  lift  with  a  mass  of  fine 
fibrous  roots,  and  should  be  potted  before  getting  a  chance  to  dry. 
Place  them  in  a  deep  frame  till  wanted;  put  them  in  heat  very  gradually 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  155 

else  there  will  be  a  tendency  to  have  flowers  without  foliage.  This 
species  is  best  propagated  from  green  wood  cuttings  talien  shortly  after 
the  plant  is  done  blooming.  Dull  weather  should  be  chosen  for  the 
operation,  as  then  the  cuttings  stand  an  almost  certain  chance  of  root- 
ing. Make  the  pieces  about  4  inches  long;  avoid  the  thick,  succulent 
growths,  taking  only  those  which  have  most  substance  to  them.  Put 
closely  together  in  the  sand  bed  of  a  cool  house,  or  frame,  and  shade  to 
prevent  wilting.  As  soon  as  rooted,  put  in  boxes  or  small  pots  until 
taken  a  little  with  the  soil,  then  plant  in  rows  outside,  where  they  will 
make  bushy  little  plants  before  Autumn.  The  next  year  after  that  in 
which  they  are  struck  from  cuttings  will  give  plants  large  enough  to  go 
into  6-inch  pots  for  forcing.  D.  Lemoinei,  a  hybrid  between  D.  gracilis 
and  D.  parviflora,  is  also  a  good  subject  for  forcing.  It  is  quite  as  free 
in  rooting  as  D.  gracilis,  and,  along  with  D.  parviflora,  should  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner  in  the  same  propagating  bed. 

DIERVILLA  (Weigelia). — D.  rosea  is  the  best  known  of  the  species;  it 
blooms  in  May  and  June.  As  it  is  not  particular  as  to  soil  or  location 
the  species  and  its  varieties  should  be  in  every  collection.  D.  r.  flori- 
buuda  has  dark  red  flowers  with  whitish  stamens — a  very  prolific 
bloomer.  D.  r.  Desboisii  has  deep  rose-colored  flowers.  D.  grandiflora 
is  a  tall  growing  plant  with  large  leaves  and  flowers.  There  are  several 
varieties  with  white,  red  and  pink  flowers;  some  of  these  give  scattering 
blooms  throughout  the  Summer  and  Autumn  months.  D.  rosea  and  its 
forms  force  very  easily.  In  its  propagation,  cuttings  of  the  dormant 
wood  root  quickly  if  put  in  gentle  heat  about  the  end  of  March,  or  the 
growing  tips  may  be  used  in  Summer  when  kept  in  a  humid  atmosphere 
during  the  rooting  process. 

ERICA  (Heath).— These  are  attractive  low-growing  shrubs  useful  for 
bordering  those  ot  taller  growth.  The  cuttings  taken  from  the  tips  of 
the  current  year's  growth  should  be  put  in  during  late  Summer.  Few 
florists  have  just  the  proper  facilities  for  rooting  these  and  kindred 
plants.  The  structure,  a  cool  frame,  should  face  north  and  will  be  all 
the  better  if  in  the  shade  of  a  house.  The  idea  is  to  have  the  atmosphere 
while  rooting  as  moist  and  as  cool  as  possible.  Erica  vagans  is  au 
early  kind,  as  is  also  E.  mediterranea;  E.  cinerea  and  E.  tetralix  are 
later  in  blooming.  Calluna  vulgaris  (Heather),  with  the  double  and 
white  flowered  kinds,  are  all  good;  they  need  peaty  soil,  or  loam  mixed 
with  an  abundance  of  leaf  mould  and  sand,  and  should  not  be  allowed 
to  get  dust  dry  at  the  roots  while  in  a  young  state. 

EUONYMUS  (Spindle  Tree).— Up  till  within  a  few  years  E.  japonicus 
was  among  the  finest  of  our  evergreen  shrubs  in  this  section,  but  owing 
to  the  ravages  of  a  small  scale  insect  the  plant  is  now  comparatively 
seldom  seen  and  will  only  thrive  where  severe  measures  are  taken  to 
keep  it  clear  of  the  pest.  Several  forms  have  very  handsome  variega- 
tions; their  names  are  E.  j.  latifolius-aureus,  E.  j.  aureo-marginatus,  E. 
j.  albo-marginatus,  and  E.  j.  latifolius-albus.  They  bloom  about  the 
end  of  July  and  usually  ripen  large  quantities  of  seeds.  The  variegated 
kinds  are  propagated  by  cuttings,  put  in  about  the  end  of  October,  in  a 
cool  house  or  frame. 


156  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

E.  radicans  variegata  is  usually  best  known  in  its  place  in  the  shrub- 
bery, but  it  is  extensively  used  for  a  very  different  purpose,  and  that  is 
as  a  carpet  bedder.  For  this  worli,  to  fill  even  a  small  space,  a  great 
many  plants  are  necessary.  In  public  parks  and  gardens  the  same 
plants  may  be  used  several  seasons,  or  the  growing  points  may  be 
rooted  afresh  each  Fall.  The  shoots  are  collected  in  bundles  of  50  or 
100  together,  and  with  a  strong  knife  they  are  cut  to  a  uniform  length 
—4  or  5  inches.  The  lower  leaves  are  stripped  and  the  cuttings  put  very 
thickly  together  in  boxes  of  sand,  and  placed  in  a  cool  frame,  where  they 
root  freely. 

EXOCHORDA  GRANDIFLORA  (Pearl  Bush).— The  only  fault  with  this 
plant  is  its  short  blooming  season,  which  is  during  the  month  of  May, 
but  it  is  exceedingly  handsome  while  it  lasts.  It  is  a  native  of  China. 
Although  sent  out  in  the  early  seventies  it  is  still  by  no  means  common, 
owing  to  its  propagation  by  the  usual  methods  being  somewhat  diffi- 
cult. In  several  localties  it  has  ripened  quantities  of  seed  for  several 
years,  and  when  seed  is  obtainable  no  difiiculty  is  experienced  in  raising 
plants,  as  the  seeds  germinate  very  evenly.  Severe  pruning,  such  as  this 
plant  is  likely  to  get  from  cultivators,  on  account  of  the  desirable  sprays 
for  cut  flowers,  evidently  works  against  the  setting  of  seed,  for  the 
specimens  which  have  borne  abundant  crops  of  seeds  in  this  locality  are 
those  which  have  never  been  touched  by  the  knife.  This  plant  was  sent 
out  under  the  name  of  Spiraea  grandiflora,  which  c!ings  to  it  yet  in  some 
places. 

FORSYTHIA.— Japanese  shrubs,  usually  covered  with  bright  yellow 
flowers  very  early  in  Spring.  There  are  two  well-known  kinds  in  culti- 
vation. F.  suspensa  has  long,  drooping  branches,  while  F.  viridissima 
is  more  erect  in  growth.  Nothing  in  the  shrub  line  is  easier  to  increase. 
All  that  is  necessary  is  to  cut  the  previous  season's  growths  into  lengths 
of  8  or  10  inches  and  heel  them  in  deeply  in  a  protected  piece  of  ground, 
covering  during  hard  weather  with  leaves  or  loose  litter.  November  is 
the  month  for  this  operation.  The  cuttings  will  also  root  in  a  very 
short  time,  if  put  in  moderate  heat  in  March.  Both  kinds  flower  before 
the  leaves  make  their  appearance,  a  day  or  two  of  warm  sunshine  being 
suflicient  to  bring  them  out.  The  plants  should  be  pruned  only  after 
they  are  done  flowering,  as  the  flowers  are  produced  directly  on  the 
wood  made  the  preceding  Summer. 

QORDONIA  (Loblolly  Bay).— These  plants  thrive  in  this  locality  when 
given  a  deep,  sandy  soil  and  well  supplied  with  moisture.  They  produce 
their  large  camellia-like  flowers  from  July  till  frost.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  layering,  allowing  the  layers  to  be  well  rooted  before  remov- 
ing. G.  pubescens  and  G.  lasiantha  are  the  species  grown.  The  last- 
named  has  pure  white  flowers,  about  4  inches  in  diameter. 

HALESIA  (Snowdrop  Tree).— These  shrubs,  or  small  trees,  are  in  full 
flower  before  the  leaves  are  fully  developed.  In  this  section  H.  Meehani 
forms  a  very  symmetrical,  small-sized  tree.  H.  diptera  and  H.  tetrap- 
tera  differ  from  each  other  in  the  number  of  wings  to  the  fruit.  All  of 
the  kinds  are  raised  from  seeds,  which  sometimes  remain  in  the  ground 


HARDY  SHRUBS,  157 

over  a  year  before  germinating.    Seedlings  of  H.  tetraptera  are  used  as 
stocks  for  the  beautiful  flowered  Japanese  Styrax. 

HIBISCUS  SYRIACUS  (Shrubby  Althaea)  is  a  deciduous  shrub  of  easy 
cultivation,  and  needing  very  little  attention  after  being  planted  beyond 
an  occasionally  thinning  out  of  the  branches.  Most  of  the  numerous 
varieties  are  very  neat  and  compact,  growing  from  5  to  12  feet  in  height. 
They  bloom  late  in  the  season,  when  most  of  the  other  shrubs  are  out 
of  flower.  The  double-flowered  varieties  root  easily  from  cuttings  of  the 
dormant  wood,  in  early  Spring,  or  from  green  wood  in  Summer.  The 
cuttings  from  the  ripened  wood  should  be  made  in  the  Fall  and  heeled 
in  out  of  the  reach  of  frost  in  moderately  dry  sand.  They  may  be  put 
in  rows  in  the  open  as  soon  as  weather  permits,  or  they  may  be  rooted 
indoors  early  and  planted  out  later.  Several  of  the  single  varieties  come 
true  from  seed,  of  which  an  abundant  crop  is  usually  produced.  H.  s. 
totus-albus  is  a  useful  single  white  variety  and  flowers  when  very  small. 
H.  s.  camelliaeflora  is  double  white,  with  pink  throat.  H.  s.  Boule  de 
Feu,  double,  violet  colored  flowers.  Other  good  double  flowered  forms 
are  H.  s.  Leopoldii  flore-pleno,  H.  s.  rubra  pleno,  H.  s.  purpurea  flore- 
pleno  and  H.  s.  Jeanne  d'  Arc. 

HYDRANGEA  HORTENSIS  is  the  common  garden  Hydrangea,  of 
which  there  are  numerous  varieties,  all  of  them  being  hardy  in  the  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia.  Some  are  cut  to  the  ground  during  Winter,  but  they 
never  get  injured  permanently.  H.  h.  Lindleyana  and  H.  h.  stellata 
prolifera  usually  survive  the  Winter  with  the  stems  several  feet  above 
ground.  These  plants  form  very  large  specimens,  and  are  very 
handsome  when  in  bloom,  changing  in  color,  as  the  flowers  mature, 
from  greenish  white  to  a  deep  rose.  The  central  flowers  are  fertile,  the 
outer  ones  sterile.  H.  h.  japonica  has  one  or  two  very  handsomely 
variegated  forms.  Cuttings  of  these  are  apt  to  lose  their  leaves  in  the 
sand  bed,  but  in  this  condition  they  will  root,  making  young  growths 
simultaneously  with  the  rooting  process;  and  if  they  are  carefully  put  in 
very  small  pots  they  will  make  fair-sized  plants  within  a  year.  But 
they  must  be  kept  in  pots  during  this  time,  as  the  roots  are  much 
weaker  than  those  of  the  green-leaved  plants.  The  variety  known  as 
H.  h.  aurea-variegata  is  probably  the  handsomest  of  our  hardy  plants. 
H.  h.  otaksa  has  large  heads  of  rose-colored  flowers.  H.  h.  ramulus- 
coccinea  has  dark  colored  stems  and  pink  flowers.  H.  h.  Thomas  Hogg 
has  pure  white  flowers.  Cuttings  will  root  any  time  after  the  shoots 
are  moderately  firm.  Where  wood  is  scarce  the  large  stems  may  be 
split  down  the  middle  with  a  leaf  to  each  piece.  Where  pruning  is  neces- 
sary it  should  be  done  early  in  the  season,  to  throw  vigor  into  the 
shoots  springing  from  the  base  of  the  plant. 

H.  quercifolia,  from  the  Southern  States,  opens  its  large  pyram- 
idal heads  of  flowers  late  in  the  season  and  is  valuable  on  that  account 
alone;  but  the  handsome  foliage  and  its  spreading,  graceful  habit  com- 
bined make  it  a  most  desirable  shrub.  It  will  thrive  either  in  partial 
shade  or  full  sun.  In  propagating,  the  smallest  of  the  ripened  shoots 
should  be  taken  with  the  leaves  attached,  placing  the  stems  deep  in 
the  sand  bed  of  the  cool  propagating  house.    If  put  in  about  the  middle 


158  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

of  October,  most  of  them  will  root  by  the  end  of  February.  Suckers, 
with  small  roots  attached,  may  be  lifted  and  potted  in  Spring.  The 
most  certain  method  is  to  layer  the  lower  branches,  allowing  them  to 
remain  at  least  a  year  before  removing.  Seeds  are  not  always  obtaina- 
ble, but  they  germinate  readily  in  sandy  soil  covered  with  finely  screened 
sphagnum. 

H.  paniculata  grandiflora  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  late  blooming 
shrubs.  The  flowers  are  creamy-white,  in  large  pyramidal  heads,  ter- 
minating the  current  year's  growths.  It  comes  into  bloom,  according 
to  locality,  from  July  to  September.  It  is  grown  both  in  bush  and 
standard  form.  In  propagating  green  cuttings  may  be  taken  during 
the  first  part  of  July.  Select  a  dull  day  for  the  operation.  Take  those 
shoots  which  are  not  too  robust  and  only  the  ends;  shorten  back  the 
leaves  one-third  and  put  in  sand,. in  a  cool,  humid  atmosphere.  Cuttings 
of  the  dormant  wood  may  be  made  8  or  10  inches  long  and  inserted, 
either  in  the  Fall,  or  kept  heeled  in,  or  buried  in  a  cold  frame  during 
Winter,  putting  them  in  rows  in  the  open  as  soon  as  weather  will  per- 
mit.   Cover  thinly  with  spent  hops,  or  old  manure,  in  either  case. 

HYPERICUM  (St.  John's  Wort)— H.  kalmianum  is  the  species  most 
commonly  seen  in  cultivation;  it  thrives  in  almost  any  soil  and  in  a 
sunny  position.  H.  patulum,  a  Japanese  species,  forms  a  bush  from  4 
to  6  feet  in  height,  in  favorable  situations.  H.  Moserianum  is  not  so 
tall  as  H.  patalum,  but  the  flowers  are  larger;  both  of  them  are  apt  to 
be  hurt  in  Winter  in  exposed  situations.  Cuttings  root  quickly  at  any 
time  during  the  Summer  months.  H.  calycinumis  one  of  the  handsomest 
and  most  useful  of  the  dwarf  evergreen  shrubs.  It  forms  dense  clumps 
of  growths,  not  over  a  foot  high,  with  very  large,  bright  orange-yellow 
flowers;  much  used  for  the  front  portions  of  shrubberies.  Increase  is  by 
division.  In  parts  of  the  country  where  the  Winters  are  too  severe  it  is 
easily  protected  by  branches  of  evergreens,  or  rough  stable  litter. 

ILEX  (Holly).— I.  aquifolIum,the  English  Holly,  is,  unfortunately,  ten- 
der in  the  Northern  States.  Philadelphia  is  said  to  be  the  northern 
limit  of  its  hardiness.  Around  Washington  it  is  perfectly  hardy,  but  it 
is  much  shorter  lived  than  our  native  species,  I.  opaca.  Except  with 
comparatively  small  specimens  of  the  English  species  on  which  the  fruit 
is  in  larger  clusters  and  brighter  colored,  the  native  one  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred for  specimen  plants.  Several  specimens  in  the  parks  here  are 
over  40  feet  high,  and  not  much  inferior  as  berry-bearing  plants  to  the 
English  one.  I.  opaca  is  very  common  in  a  wild  state  in  the  woods 
here;  but  I  have  never  seen  what  could  be  termed  a  presentable  plant. 
They  are  generally  found  in  the  shade  of  other  trees,  conditions  which 
make  them  scraggy  looking.  When  grown  in  the  open,  in  prepared 
ground,  their  appearance  is  quite  altered ;  the  branches  grow  close  to- 
gether, and  the  outline  of  the  tree  is  rather  conical,  not  spreading  as  in 
I.  aquifolium.  Ilex  cornuta,  from  Japan,  is  a  very  satisfactory  species, 
but  the  berries,  of  which  there  is  a  plentiful  supply,  do  not  ripen  until 
after  the  time  when  they  would  be  most  welcome.  The  EngUsh  species 
takes  well  on  stocks  of  I.  opaca.  The  operation  should  be  done  indoors 
either  before  growth  is  active  in  Spring,  or  after  the  wood  is  fairly  ripe 


HARDY  SHRUBS,  159 

in  August.  I.  opaca  is  more  difficult  to  raise  from  seed  than  I.  aquifo- 
lium.  A  good  method  is  to  sow  in  a  mixture  of  peat  and  sphagnum 
moss,  made  quite  firm,  and  place  in  a  greenhouse  where  it  will  get  the 
full  sun,  keeping  the  mixture  moderately  wet.  Plants  grown  for  their 
berries,  or,  in  fact,  for  any  purpose  except  for  hedges,  should  never  be 
selected  from  seedlings,  as  there  are  two  kinds,  one  with  the  female 
organs,  imperfectly  developed,  but  with  the  stamens  well  formed  bear- 
ing abundance  of  pollen;  they  are  the  most  abundant  bloomers,  but  do 
not  bear  fruit.  The  other  kind  has  fewer  flowers,  with  the  pistils  all 
well  formed  and  quite  prominent  in  the  center  of  the  flower.  The 
stamens  on  the  other  hand  seem  imperfect  in  most  cases,  but  doubtless 
there  is  enough  pollen  on  them  to  fertihze  the  flower,  as  fruiting  plants 
set  seed  all  right  a  long  distance  away  from  the  pistillate  plants.  There- 
fore, cions  should  always  be  selected  from  berry-bearing  plants.  There 
is  a  variety  of  1.  aquifolium  with  yellow  fruit  which  is  desirable.  There 
are  also  many  kinds  with  curiously-formed  leaves,  not  so  popular  here 
as  they  are  in  Europe.  Ilex  aquifolium  flowers  on  the  growths  of  the 
preceding  Summer;  I.  opaca  flowers  later,  and  on  the  current  year's 
wood.  The  outer  covering  of  the  seeds  of  Holly  is  quite  hard,  and  often 
they  do  not  germinate  the  same  season  as  sown.  If  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe,  in  very  sandy  soil,  and  care  taken  to  keep  them  from  drying  out 
during  the  dry  months  of  Summer,  they  will'  germinate  the  following 
Spring.  Sow  the  seed  rather  deep  and  cover  with  a  mulching  in  Win- 
ter, which  covering  is  easily  removed  when  freezing  weather  is  past.  I. 
cornuta,  grown  in  company  with  varieties  of  the  English  species,  does 
not  come  true  from  seed. 

I.  cornuta.  It  would  be  an  interesting  experiment  were  some  of  our 
Southern  woodsmen  to  plant  the  Japanese  Holly  (Ilex  cornuta)  for 
the  sake  of  its  berried  branches  as  a  Christmas  Holly  along  with  the 
English  (I.  aquifolia)  and  the  native  evergreen  kinds,  I.  opaca  and 
I.  cassine.  The  last  named  is  the  prettiest  of  the  three,  but  both 
berries  and  leaves  are  small;  the  berries  shrivel  up  too  quickly  and 
sometimes  fall  off  before  they  can  be  used.  Ilex  cornuta  fruits  more 
freely  than  any  of  the  other  species.  In  the  vicinitv  of  Washington,  by 
the  middle  of  December,  the  berries  are  only  beginning  to  turn  red. 
Whether  this  fault  would  appear  where  the  flowers  expand  earlier 
in  the  season  I  cannot  say.  A  most  noticeable  feature  in  connection 
with  the  Japanese  plant,  the  mentioning  of  which  may  be  of  use  to 
some  one  some  day,  is  that  it  bears  a  much  more  abundant  crop  of  ber- 
ries when  male  plants  of  the  English  species  are  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood. The  hardiness  of  this  plant  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  the 
English  kinds,  probaby  a  little  more  tender.  I  understand  it  can  be 
grown  as  far  North  as  Philadelphia.  In  Washington  it  stands  the  most 
severe  Winters  without  hurt,  and  grows  much  stronger  than  the  English 
species. 

ITEA  VIRQINICA.— The  cultivated  form  of  this  is  much  superior  to 
plants  found  in  the  wild  state.  It  has  long  racemes  of  rather  pretty- 
greenish- white  flowers.  It  may  be  propagated  by  division,  or  from 
seeds  which  ripen  freely.    It  usually  grows  from  2  to  4  feet  high. 


160  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

JASMINUM  NUDIFLORUM   (Chinese  naked  flowered   Jasmine).— This 

may  be  used  either  as  a  bush  plant  on  the  lawn  or  open  border,  for  cov- 
ering walls  or  arbors,  or  for  forming  a  light  hedge.  It  is  not  particular 
as  to  soil  or  situation,  growing  almost  anywhere.  Its  flowers  are  pro- 
duced during  mild  Winters.  Beginning  in  December  they  expand  as  the 
weather  permits  till  April.  Propagation  is  effected  by  putting  in  cut- 
tings of  the  ripe  growths  out-of-doors  in  Autumn.  Good-sized  branches 
can  be  layered  successfully.  It  is  one  of  the  easiest  shrubs  to  root.  J. 
revolutum,  J.  fruticans  and  J.  floridum,  all  of  them  yellow-flowered  spe- 
cies, usually  stand  the  Winters  here.  J.  revolutum  is  the  hardiest.  They 
are  propagated  by  layering,  and  from  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood,  kept 
in  a  cool  house  over  Winter. 

JUNIPERUS  (Juniper).— J.  sabina  var.  tamariscifolia  is  a  most  useful 
dwarf,  trailing  evergreen,  seldom  growing  over  18  inches  high.  J.  pro- 
cumbens  is  another  species  of  creeping  habit.  Cuttings  may  be  put  in 
after  the  first  slight  frost.  Where  only  a  limited  number  of  this  and 
other  evergreen  coniferous  shrubs  is  required,  the  best  method,  I  have 
found, is  to  fix  up  a  few  boxes,  say  about  4  inches  deep,  with  sandy  pot- 
ting soil  at  the  bottoms  and  pure  sand  on  top;  make  the  cuttings  about 
6  inches  long,  half  of  which  should  be  in  the  soil.  Put  them  in  fairly 
close  together,  and  firm  well.  Give  one  good  watering.  Stand  the 
boxes  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  house  under  the  benches;  keep  moder- 
ately damp,  and  by  Spring,  if  the  conditions  have  not  been  unfavorable, 
a  goodly  percentage  will  have  rooted.  If  not  too  close  together  they 
will  take  little  harm  from  passing  the  Summer  In  the  same  boxes.  The 
kinds  available  for  this  method  of  propagation  are  Biotas,  Cupressus, 
Thuja,  Retinospora,  Cephalotaxus  and  Taxus. 

KALMIA  LATIFOLIA  (Calico  Bush).— A  native  evergreen  shrub  grow- 
ing from  Maine  southwards.  In  the  Northern  States  it  is  a  bush,  4  to  8 
feet  high.  Further  South  it  is  frequently  met  with  20  feet  high.  It 
blooms  during  May  and  June.  It  is  cultivated  much  in  the  same  way 
as  Rhododendrons;  but  under  cultivation  we  seldom  see  the  plants 
flourishing  equal  to  those  in  their  native  habitats.  It  is  raised  from  seed 
and  from  layers.  K.  glauca  has  lilac  colored  flowers,  and  whitish  under 
the  leaves;  K.  angnstifolia  has  purple  flowers.  All  three  are  used  for 
forcing,  imported  plants  being  employed  for  the  purpose.  K.  angnsti- 
folia has  lateral  corymbs;  in  K.latifolia and  K.  glauca  they  are  terminal. 

KERRIA  JAPONICA  is  a  popular  flowering  shrub  which;is  not  too  par- 
ticular as  to  soil  or  situation.  It  attains  a  height  of  about  6  feet. 
There  are  three  forms— the  double  flowered,  single  flowered  and  varie- 
gated leaved.  They  are  all  good.  The  variegated  one  keeps  the  color 
in  the  leaves  all  through  the  season  just  as  showy  as  in  Spring;  it  usu- 
ally bears  a  crop  of  flowers,  which  are  bright  yellow,  over  an  inch  in 
diameter,  along  about  the  first  part  of  May.  This  plant  is  capable  of 
being  used  as  a  hedge  subject,  as  it  stands  clipping  well.  The  other  two 
kinds  are  more  profuse  bloomers,  especially  the  double,  which  is  the 
strongest  growing  of  the  three.  It  is  seldom  without  flowers  all  during 
the  Summer  and  Fall.  The  plants  are  best  propagated  from  ripe 
growths  during  the  latter  part  of  August,  indoors. 


HARDY  SHRUBS,  161 

K(ELREUTERIA  PANICULATA  is  one  of  the  very  best  small  sized  decidu- 
ous trees  in  cultivation — such  as  florists  are  often  called  upon  to  suggest 
for  small  gardens  and  in  places  unsuitable  or  too  small  for  the  develop- 
ment of  forest  trees.  The  Kcelreuteria  was  certainly  not  named  by  any- 
one having  its  popularity  in  view,  as  I  am  inclined  to  think  the  long 
name  is  responsible  for  the  plant  not  being  more  common.  There  isn't 
a  sufficiently  taking  popular  name  under  which  the  species  is  known. 
The  leaves  are  compound;  the  flowers  yellow,  in  immense  panicles,  well 
above  the  leaves;  they  are  produced  in  June  and  July.  The  seed,  which 
is  somewhat  like  that  of  the  Canna,  if  sown  in  the  Fall  will  germinate 
the  following  Spring.    Stock  is  also  got  up  readily  from  root  cuttings. 

LAQERSTRCEMIA  INDICA,  (Crape  Myrtle )— Northern  nurserymen,  as 
a  rule,  do  not  handle  this  plant,  owing  to  its  being  tender  in  the  North. 
However,  it  is  hardy  enough  to  stand  zero  weather;  but  wh*»n  the  mer- 
cury gets  much  lower  the  plant  is  apt  to  be  killed  to  the  ground.  In 
the  Southern  States  the  Crape  Myrtle  is  perhaps  the  best  known  of  all 
the  flowering  shrubs,  as  there  are  few,  if  any,  which  exceed  in  beauty  a 
well-developed  specimen  in  full  bloom.  The  flowers  are  bright  pink  and 
are  arranged  in  immense  heads,  even  on  one  year-old  plants  from  seed. 
Large  specimens  grown  in  tubs,  and  kept  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  can  be 
made  to  flower  two  or  three  times  during  the  year  by  cutting  back  the 
flowering  branches.  L.  i.  alba  has  pure  white  flowers,  others  are  bright 
and  pale  shades  of  purple,  rose  and  red.  It  is  hardy  in  this  section  and 
is  successfully  grown  much  further  North  with  a  slight  protection  dur- 
ing Winter,  for  if  the  roots  are  protected  with  a  covering  of  leaves,  or 
rough  litter,  they  will  sprout  vigorously  and  bloom  profusely  before  the 
Summer  passes.  It  is  best  propagated  from  seed,  as  all  the  colors  come 
true.  Sow  in  boxes  about  the  latter  part  of  September,  on  very  firm 
soil,  covering  the  seeds  with  finely  sifted  peaty  soil.  They  will  germinate 
in  Spring,  and  if  liberally  treated  some  of  them  will  bloom  the  same 
season.  Young  plants  are  always  much  more  tender  than  those  three 
years  old  and  upward. 

LAURUS  NOBILIS  (Bay  Tree)— In  sheltered  situations  this  well-known 
shrub  occasionally  survives  the  Winters  in  this  section.  It  sometimes 
makes  growths  6  feet  long  in  a  single  season ;  these  are  necessarily  soft 
and  ill-prepared  to  stand  severe  weather.  During  the  Winter  of  1898 — 
1899  every  plant  was  killed  to  the  ground.  Large  specimen  plants 
grown  as  standards  and  pyramids  are  imported  for  decorative  pur- 
poses. They  may  be  had  in  good  condition  for  several  years  by 
attention  to  watering  and  keeping  them  indoors  when  there  is  dan- 
ger from  frosts.  Owing  to  their  restricted  root  room  there  is  little 
danger  of  their  growing  out  of  shape. 

LlQUSTRUn  (Privet)— In  this  section  L.japonicum is  a  very  desirable 
evergreen  species  with  large  leaves.  During  very  severe  Winters  the 
outer  branches  suffer  considerably.  I.  Ibota,  L  ovalifolium,  and  I.  luci- 
dum  are  very  attractive-looking  shrubs  when  in  flower.  The  European 
Privet,  L.  vulgare,  has  small  flowers  and  foliage,  and  is  the  hardiest  of 
the  number  There  is  a  form  with  glaucous  leaves,  the  margins  of  which 
are  bordered  with  white.    The  deciduous  species  are  among  the  eaeiest 


162  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

shrubs  to  root  from  dormant  cuttings.  These  may  be  put  in  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  fall.  The  evergreen  species  usually  bear  large  quantities  of 
seeds,  which  are  slow  in  germinating;  when  they  remain  in  the  ground 
over  Summer  a  mulching  should  be  given  to  prevent  drying. 

LONICERA  (Bush  Honeysuckle)— L.  Standishii  comes  in  flower  before 
the  leaves  appear,  usually  in  February  and  March.  The  blooms  are 
sweet-scented,  but  rather  inconspicuous.  In  favorable  seasons  the  orna- 
mental fruit  is  ripe  during  the  first  half  of  May.  Seeds  sown  in  Septem- 
ber will  germinate  the  following  Spring.  The  branches  may  be  layered 
any  time  after  midsummer.  L.  fragrantissima  is  almost  an  evergreen 
species  here;  it  blooms  early  in  the  season,  theflowers  are  very  fragrant. 
It  forms  beautiful  specimens  when  not  interfered  with  by  other  shrubs 
and  trees.  It  is  best  propagated  by  cuttings  taken  any  time  during  a 
wet  spell  in  Summer,  and  rooted  indoors.  After  this  process  they  may 
be  heeled  in  boxes  of  soil,  and,  afterward,  either  planted  in  rows  outside 
or  kept  in  a  frame  till  Spring.  L.  Aibertii  is  a  dwarf  species  with  small 
and  narrow  glaucous  leaves  and  purplish  flowers.  L.  Morowii  and  L. 
Ruprechtiana  are  both  valuable  on  account  of  their  handsome  red  fruit 
which  ripens  in  great  abundance.  L.  tatarica  has  numerous  forms, 
differing  from  each  other  in  the  color  of  the  flowers  and  fruits.  L.  t'. 
grandiflora  has  bright  red  flowers  striped  with  white;  L.  t.  splendens 
has  the  flowers  dark  rose;  L.  t.  grandiflora  alba  is  pure  white.  They 
do  best  in  sunny  positions  and  are  increased  by  layering;  also  from 
seeds. 

HAQNOLIA— All  of  the  hardy  species,  some  of  which  are  fair-sized 
trees,  are  well  worth  growing.  They  may  be  divided  into  two  sections 
— North  American  and  Asiatic.  Those  of  the  former  produce  their 
flowers  after  the  leaves  are  formed,  while  the  deciduous,  Asiatic  species 
bloom  for  the  most  part  on  the  naked  wood,  and  very  early  in  Spring. 
M.  grandiflora,  an  evergreen  species,  native  of  the  Southern  States, 
begins  blooming  here  about  the  end  of  May  and  continues  throughout 
the  Summer.  In  this  section  it  is  hardy,  but  during  Winter,  when  the 
thermometer  registers  from  5  to  10  degrees  below  zero,  the  leaves  are 
almost  certain  to  fall,  although  without  apparent  injury  to  ihe  plant. 
North  of  here  it  has  a  struggle  for  existence.  Seeds  sown  In  Autumn 
usually  germinate  In  Spring.  Seedlings  are  more  vigorous  than 
grafted  plants,  but  they  nevertheless  take  a  considerable  time  before 
attaining  a  flowering  size.  M.  macrophylla,  another  native,  is  known 
as  the  great-leaved  Magnolia;  it  is  much  hardier  than  M.  grandiflora. 
The  leavies  are  from  2  to  3  feet  long,  and  proportionately  broad.  The 
flowers  are  nearly  a  foot  across.  It  is  easily  raised  from  seed.  In  this 
locality  its  blooming  period  is  during  the  last  half  of  May  and  early  In 
June.  M.  glauca,  M.  g.  Thomsoniaua  and  M.  g.  WatsonI  are  all  desira- 
ble hardy  shrubs.  The  two  last  named  have  larger  flowers  than  the 
type.  Among  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  species  and  varieties,  M.  stellata 
is  the  earliest  to  come  in  bloom ;  it  is  sometimes  in  full  flower  here  by 
the  middle  of  March.  M.  conspicua  follows  a  week  or  ten  days  later; 
this  is  the  flnest  of  the  Chinese  species.  As  the  large  flowers  expand 
before  the  foliage  it  is  indeed  a  conspicuous  plant  when  in  bloom.    M. 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  163 

Soulangeana  is  thouj^ht  to  be  a  natural  hybrid  between  M.  conspicua 
and  the  dark  purple  flowered  M.  obovata.  This  is  probably  the  case,  as 
the  color  of  the  flowers  would  indicate;  moreover,  it  is  later  in  bloom- 
ing than  M.  conspicua  and  earlier  than  M.  obovata.  M.  Kobus  is  a  very 
shapely  small  tree,  with  small  flowers  which  open  early.  It  is  used  as  a 
stock  for  grafting  purposes.  The  seeds  are  certain  to  germinate  evenly 
when  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  M.  Lennei  is  the  showiest  of  the  dark  pur- 
ple-flowered kinds.  The  bloom  is  cup-shaped  and  very  large;  the  petals 
are  dark  purple  on  the  outside,  lighter  within.  M.  stellata  is  sometimes 
used  as  an  Easter  plant.  When  flowered  in  pots  for  this  purpose  it 
should  be  home  grown,  and  plants  selected  for  forcing  which  show  the 
most  buds.  For  forcing  they  may  be  potted  in  the  Fall,  but  if  the 
ground  is  in  a  condition  to  allow  the  plants  to  be  lifted  they  can  be 
successfully  flowered  a  week  or  two  afterward.  Propagation  is  effected 
by  seed,  budding,  grafting,  and  layering.  Stocks  may  be  chosen  from 
M.  Kobus,  M.  tripetala  or  M.  acuminata.  Layering  should  be  practiced 
before  the  plants  are  in  active  growth.  The  best  season  for  planting  is 
just  before  the  plants  start  into  growth. 

NEVIUSA  ALABAHENSIS  is  called  the  Alabama  Snow  Wreath.  This 
name  is  a  little  misleading,  as  when  in  flower  there  is  really  nothing  to 
suggest  snow  from  the  appearance  of  the  bushes.  The  stamens  are  the 
most  attractive  part  of  the  flower;  they  are  greenish  white.  Propaga- 
tion is  by  division  of  the  old  plants;  they  sucker  very  freely.  Summer 
cuttings  can  be  depended  on  to  root  quickly. 

OSMANTHUS— This  genus  belongs  to  the  same  order  as  the  Olive 
(Olea),  under  which  the  species  are  sometimes  described.  O.  aquifolius 
has  a  certain  resemblance  to  the  English  Holly  (Ilex).  The  resemblance 
is  still  more  striking  in  the  variety  O.a.ilicifolius,  one  of  the  handsomest 
evergreen  shrubs  outside  of  the  Conifers.  It  has  stood  outdoors  here 
for  a  long  number  of  years.  During  very  severe  Winters  it  suffers  very 
little,  and  in  protected  situations  not  at  all.  O.  a.  myrtifolius  is  a  form 
with  leathery,  spineless  leaves,  but  is  not  such  a  free-growing  shrub  as 
the  others.  Of  O.  a.  ilicifolius  there  are  one  or  two  handsome  variegated 
forms  in  cultivation,  but  they  are  less  hardy  than  the  green-leaved 
variety.  They  are  easily  propagated  by  cuttings,  rooted  indoors  during 
the  Fall  months.  O.  a.  ilicifolius  seeds  freely  and  the  seedlings  come 
true;  they  do  not  germinate  till  the  second  year.  Privet  stocks  are  used 
on  which  to  graft  the  variegated  forms. 

pyEONIA  nOUTAN  (Shrubby  Paeonia)— The  shrubby  Peeonies  are  varie- 
ties of  this  species.  They  are  hardy  in  the  North,  but  their  flower  buds 
are  quickly  developed  during  mild  weather,  consequently  they  are  apt 
to  suffer  from  late  frosts.  They  force  well  early  in  the  season,  but  are 
only  good  for  variety,  as  few  flowers  can  be  had  on  a  moderate-sized 
plant.  As  border  subjects  they  are  desirable,  making  an  attractive 
display  during  April  or  the  first  half  of  May.  Propagation  is  by  seeds, 
division  and  grafting.  The  single  and  semi-double  forms  will,  in  favora- 
ble seasons,  ripen  a  considerable  quantity  of  seed;  they  should  not  be 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  seed  vessels  after  they  are  ripe,  as  they  harden, 
and  germination  will  take  longer  than  if  sown  when  ripe.  Sow  in  boxes 


X64  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

and  keep  under  cover  for  the  Winter.  They  should  germinate  in  Spring. 
Seedlings  are  not  as  free  flowering  as  grafted  plants.  The  operation  of 
grafting  is  best  performed  during  the  first  half  of  September,  in  order 
that  the  union  may  be  perfect  and  new  roots  produced  by  the  stocks  to 
give  the  Spring  growth  a  vigorous  start.  For  stocks  any  of  the  numer- 
ous varieties  of  the  Chinese  species  may  be  taken;  those  varieties  having 
the  poorest  flowers  should,  of  course,  be  selected  for  the  purpose.  The 
wood  taken  for  cions  should  be  from  the  less  robust  part  of  the  plant, 
that  in  which  the  large  flower  buds  are  absent  being  preferred.  The 
leaves  should  be  shortened  back,  and  the  cion  attached  to  a  good-sized 
piece  of  the  fleshy  part  of  the  root  of  the  herbaceous  species  by  the 
easiest  of  the  ordinary  methods  of  grafting.  Tie  on  with  a  string  which 
will  not  rot  in  the  ground  during  Winter,  as  support  is  needed  in  this 
way  even  after  the  cion  has  taken  with  the  stock.  The  position  to  be 
occupied  by  the  grafted  stocks  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  opera- 
tion. Where  the  Winters  are  severe,  a  deep  frame,  facing  north,  is  the 
best  place  for  them.  In  this  locality  they  are  heeled  in  on  a  sheltered 
part  of  the  open  border,  but  deep  enough  in  the  soil,  so  that  the  lower 
part  of  the  cion  is  covered.  A  layer  of  decayed  leaves  or  sphagnum  is 
kept  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  tops  shaded  for  the  first  two 
weeks.  In  planting  insert  deep  enough  so  as  to  give  the  cions  every 
opportunity  to  send  out  their  own  roots.  About  the  beginning  of  May 
the  graft  will  have  made  considerable  growth;  each  one  should  then  be 
supported  with  a  stick,  else  it  is  liable  to  become  detached  from  the 
stocks.  Division  should  only  be  attempted  with  plants  which  are  well 
provided  with  short  growths  from  the  bases  of  the  plants. 

PAULOWNIA  IMPERIALIS  (Empress  Tree).— Under  favorable  condi 
tions  this  subject  grows  into  a  good-sized  tree.  During  May,  before  the 
leaves  appear,  the  large  panicles  of  bright  purple  gloxinia-hke  flowers 
open  out,  making  a  most  gorgeous  appearance.  A  medium-sized  tree  will 
ripen  an  almost  incredible  number  of  seeds;  they  are  quite  small  and 
need  careful  tending  to  germinate  them  successfully.  Young  plants, 
w^encut  down  annually,  throw  up  very  strong  shoots  with  leaves 
sometimes  2  feet  in  diameter,  giving  an  effect  not  to  be  had  with  any 
other  plant.  It  thrives  in  any  soil.  The  Winter  of  1898-1899  was 
the  first  to  kill  the  flower  buds  on  even  large-sized  trees  in  Washington. 
It  is  hardy  in  the  North,  but  the  flower  buds,  being  naked,  are  usually 
killed  by  severe  frosts. 

PAVIA  MACROSTACHYA  (Smooth=fruited  Horse  Chestnut)— This  is  a 

desirable  shrub,  growing  from  3  to  9  feet  high,  spreading  rapidly  by 
means  of  stoloniferous  roots.  It  flowers  in  June;  the  flowers  are  white, 
disposed  in  upright  racemes.  It  is  most  easily  propagated  by  division. 
P.  rubra  var.  purpurea  blooms  in  a  very  small  state;  it  will  succeed 
either  in  sun  or  shade.    Seedlings  make  satisfactory  blooming  plants. 

PERSICA  VULGARIS  (Peach)— The  double-flowering  forms  are  among 
the  most  popular  of  dwarf-flowering  trees.  Their  period  of  blooming  is 
during  April  and  May,  according  to  locality.  P.  v.  versicolor  plena  has 
the  flowers  either  red  or  white  on  the  same  tree,  or  with  both  colors 
combined  in  the  same  flower.    There  are  double  red,  double  rose  and 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  165 

double  white  forms.  They  are  increased  by  working  on  one-year-old 
seedling  stocks  of  the  common  peach. 

PHILADELPHUS  (Hock  Oratige,  Syringa)— All  of  the  species  and  their 
forms  are  valuable  flowering  shrubs  with  large  white  flowers,  some 
of  which  are  very  fragrant.  P.  coronarius  is  one  of  the  best  known; 
P.  c.  primulaBflorus  has  double  flowers;  there  is  another  with  yel- 
lowish leaves.  P.  grandiflorus  is  a  native  of  the  Southern  States;  it 
has  larger  flowers  than  P.  coronarius.  P.  Gordonianus  is  a  late 
bloomer,  with  almost  scentless  flowers.  They  succeed  in  almost  any 
soil.  Cuttings  taken  after  the  leaves  drop  in  Autumn  will  root  very 
quickly  if  put  in  slight  bottom  heat  in  March  or  April;  or  in  a  protected 
place  they  root  well  in  the  open  ground.  Pruning  should  be  done  only 
after  the  flowers  have  faded.  This  will  give  the  young  wood  an  oppor- 
tunity to  ripen.  The  flowers  are  only  produced  on  the  wood  made  the 
preceding  Summer. 

POTENTILLA  FRUTICOSA  (Shrubby  Cinquefoil)— A  very  hardy  species 
growing  from  2  to  5  feet  high,  with  pinnate  leaves  and  numerous  bright 
yellow  flowers,  which  are  produced  all  through  the  Summer.  Cuttings 
may  be  rooted  at  any  time  indoors  during  Summer.  Small  plants  are 
very  suitable  for  the  rockery,  and  by  pruning  in  the  Spring  they  are 
easily  kept  within  bounds. 

PRUNUS  PADUS  is  the  Bird  Cherry.  It  bears  long  racemes  of  white 
flowers,  in  May,  followed  by  ornamental  black  fruit.  P.  spinosa  flore- 
pleno,  the  double  flowering  Sloe,  forms  a  large  shrub,  usually  covered 
with  double  white  flowers  in  early  Spring.  The  dwarf  white,  double- 
flowering  Almond  is  P.  japonica  flore-alba-plena;  the  red  form  is  P.  j. 
flore-rubra-plena.  They  bloom  for  only  a  short  period,  but  are  exceed- 
ingly handsome  while  the  flowers  last.  P.  Pissardi  is  the  purple-leaved 
Plum,  of  which  there  are  good  and  bad  forms;  the  good  varieties  retain 
their  coloring  till  the  end  of  the  season.  The  flowers,  usually  borne  in 
great  profusion,  open  in  early  Spring  before  the  leaves  expand.  In  this 
locality  the  fruits  are  ripe  by  the  end  of  May.  Most  of  the  species  and 
forms  are  propagated  by  budding  and  grafting,  but  it  is  cheaper  to  buy 
than  to  work  them  in  small  quantities. 

PUNICA  QRANATUn  NANA  (Dwarf  Pomegranate)— Both  the  tall 
growing  and  dwarf  Pomegranates  stand  our  most  severe  Winters  here 
without  the  least  injury,  and  flower  quite  profusely  during  the  Summer. 
They  are  all  the  more  welcome,  as  their  unique,  bright  scarlet  flowers 
are  produced  when  shrubs  in  bloom  are  scarce.  In  favorable  seasons 
they  ripen  fruit,  but  we  do  not  depend  upon  these  for  propagation.  Cut- 
tings are  taken  from  one  and  two-year-old  wood,  stored  and  put  in  a 
cool  house  propagating  bed  about  the  middle  of  February;  they  root 
very  evenly.  They  should  be  removed  to  a  frame  as  soon  as  they  will 
bear  it.  The  dwarf  form  makes  a  very  ornamental  shrub,  and  should 
be  tried  wherever  it  is  likely  to  thrive.    Native  of  Cabul  and  Persia. 

PYRUS  (Crab=apple) — Highly  ornamental  low  growing  trees,  usually 
covered  with  flowers  early  in  Spring.  Some  of  them  have  very  highly 
colored  fruits  in  Autumn.    They  are  increased  by  budding  and  grafting 


166  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

on  seedling  stocks.  The  flowers  of  P.  Mains  coronaria  are  large,  single, 
pinkish-white,  very  sweetly  scented.  It  bears  fruit  freely,  bat  the  seed- 
lings are  slow  in  making  flowering  plants.  P.  M.  floribunda  and  the 
variety  called  atrosanguinea  are  most  beautiful  when  the  flowers  are 
half  expanded ;  they  are  then  of  a  bright  rosy-red  color,  getting  lighter 
when  fully  open.  The  flowers  of  P.  M.  Parkmanni  are  double,  of  a 
beautiful  deep  rose;  valuable  for  cutting.  It  is  a  very  free  flowering 
variety  and  should  be  largely  grown.  P.  M.  carnea  and  P.  M.  lutea 
produce  large  numbers  of  flowers  on  small  grafted  plants.  The  double 
white  and  double  rose  colored  forms  of  P.  M.  spectabilis  are  very  desira- 
ble; they  are  very  regular  bloomers,  seldom  missing  a  season.  P.  M. 
floribunda  and  P.  M  f.  atrosanguinea  bloom  freely  in  a  small  state,  and 
should  be  grown  more  for  forcing  purposes. 

RHAPHIOLEPIS  OVATA— A  charming  little  evergreen  shrub,  which  is 
hardj^  here  in  sheltered  situations.  The  flowers  resemble  those  of  a  Cra- 
taegus; they  are  pure  white,  sweet-scented,  about  three-quarters  of  an 
Inch  across  and  arranged  in  terminal  panicles.  The  leaves  are  leathery 
in  texture  and  almost  round.  It  ought  to  prove  a  good  shrub  for  the 
Southern  States.  It  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  in  the  Fall,  rooted 
indoors. 

RHODODENDRON.— In  some  parts  these  do  grandly.  In  this  locality, 
when  given  sheltered  and  partly  shaded  positions,  they  thrive  tolerably 
well,  but  when  in  the  full  sun  they  do  not  thrive  unless  very  carefully 
watched.  Hybrids  of  R.  ponticum  are  less  hardy  than  those  of  R. 
catawbiense.  This  species  and  R.  maximum  are  natives  of  the  Eastern 
States;  they  should  be  given  treatment  similar  to  that  recomended  for 
Azalea.  They  are  propagated  by  layering  and  grafting  on  seedling 
stocks  of  the  hardy  species,  principally  R.  maximum.  R.  punctatum,a 
species  from  N.  Carolina  with  small  pink  flowers,  is  quite  hardy  North. 
There  are  many  beautiful  greenhouse  species  and  varieties,  compara- 
tively few  of  which  are  cultivated  in  America. 

RHODOTYPOS  KERRIOIDES  (White  Kerria)— This  is  a  very  desirable 
Japanese  shrub,  seldom  growing  over  8  feet  high,  although  in  its  native 
country  it  is  said  to  reach  twice  that  height.  The  flowers  make  their 
appearance  as  soon  as  the  growths  of  the  current  year  develop,  and 
keep  up  quite  a  display  from  about  the  middle  of  May  all  through  the 
Summer  and  Fall  months;  that  is,  if  the  ground  does  not  get  too  dry. 
The  flowers  are  snow-white,  aobut  2  inches  in  diameter,  and  appear  at  the 
ends  of  the  shoots.  The  plant  thrives  well  on  heavy  soils,  and,  although 
not  necessarily,  in  places  crowded  and  partly  shaded  by  overhead  foli- 
age. The  seeds  are  in  shape  and  size  somewhat  like  those  of  the  Canna. 
They  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  as  they  are  slow  in  germinating. 

RHUS  COTINUS  (Smoke  Tree)'-A  species  from  Southern  Europe,  with 
very  neat  foliage.  The  whole  plant  is  usually  covered  during  mid- 
Bummer  with  a  fringe-like  substance,  which  gives  rise  to  the  name 
"  Smoke  Tree."  This  substance  consists  of  the  elongated  hairy  pedicels. 
R.  glabra  is  one  of  the  handsomest  species,  on  account  of  its  large,  odd- 
pinnate  leaves.  R.  g.  laciniata  has  the  leaflets  much  cut  up,  resembling 
the  fronds  of  some  Ferns;  both  are  easily  propagated  from  cuttings  of 


HARDY  SBRUBS.  167 

the  roots.  R.  typhina,  the  Staghorn  Sumach,  grows  from  10  to  30  feet 
high.  The  leaves  are  odd-pinnate,  having  from  11  to  31  leaflets.  R. 
copallina  is  a  shrub,  growing  from  1  to  7  feet  high.  Both  are  propa- 
gated by  root  cuttings,  and  also  from  seeds.  R.  Toxicodendron  and  R. 
venenata  are  poisonous  species;  the  former  is  known  as  Poison  Oak 
and  Poison  Ivy,  the  latter  as  Poison  Sumach  and  Poison  Dogwood. 

ROBINIA  HISPIDA— The  flowers  of  this  species  are  deep  rose  colored, 
borne  in  hanging  racemes.  When  grown  on  its  own  roots  it  suckers 
freely,  and  when  planted  among  choice  shrubs  it  soon  appropriates 
space  not  intended  for  it.  When  worked  on  stocks  of  the  False  Acacia, 
R.  Pseud-acacia,  it  is  a  more  desirable  shrub,  but  it  requires  frequent 
pruning  to  keep  it  in  shape.  Of  R.  Pseud-acacia  there  are  low-growing 
and  late-blooming  forms;  none  of  them  are,  however,  superior  to  the 
type.    They  are  worked  on  seedling  plants  of  R.  Pseuda-acacia. 

ROSA— (Rose)* 

The  Rose  is  without  question  the  most  popular  of  flowers,  and  it  can 
hardly  be  wondered  at,  as  in  the  very  numerous  species  and  varieties 
we  have  nearly  every  shade  of  color  in  the  flower— green,  yellow,  bronze, 
red,  pink,  white,  purple  and  almost  black.  The  flowers,  be  they  single, 
semi-double  or  double,  have  much  to  please  the  eye,  and  their  fragrance 
is  unsurpassed.  The  cultivated  varieties  are  divided  into  classes.  Some 
of  the  varieties  are  differently  arranged  by  different  authorities.  The 
arrangements  are  intended  as  aids  to  the  published  descriptions;  thus 
the  more  easily  do  growers  get  au  idea  as  to  the  habits  of  a  new  Rose 
when  the  originators  class  it  with  a  section  of  the  better-known  varie- 
ties. But  the  varieties  of  the  several  groups  have,  to  a  certain  extent, 
been  crossed  one  with  another,  and  there  are  very  few  people,  even  be 
they  expert  rosarians,  who  agree  with  each  other  on  the  position  which 
some  of  our  Roses  should  occupy  in  any  system  of  classification.  Again, 
as  new  breaks  are  made  by  the  crossing  of  species  and  varieties,  as  has 
lately  been  done  with  the  species  R.  Wichuraiana  and  R.  rubiginosa, 
there  arises  a  necessity  for  new  class  names.  Some  of  the  sections  are 
but  little  grown  in  the  Northern  States,  as  the  plants  which  do  best  in 
the  colder  parts  of  the  country  belong  to  only  a  few  classes.  The  hybrid 
perpetuals,  or  hybrid  remontants,  are  the  best-known  outdoor  Roses, 
but  for  this  purpose  they  are  unsatisfactory  both  North  and  South.  In 
the  North  they  suffer  during  Winter,  and  in  the  South  they  are  anything 
but  ornamental  after  the  flowering  period,  which  is  a  short  one.  In 
this  latitude  they  are  at  their  best  from  the  25th  of  May  till  the  10th  of 
June.  They  are,  however,  gorgeous  while  they  last.  Further  North 
some  of  the  kinds  give  a  few  scattering  blooms  in  Autumn.  General 
Jacqueminot,  a  variety  raised  nearly  50  years  ago,  is  one  of  the  most 
valued  by  amateurs,  owing  to  its  brilliant  crimson,  highly  fragrant 
flowers.  It  is  used  to  a  considerable  extent  for  forcing.  When  the  plants 
are  put  out  in  solid  beds,  the  sash  are  removed  in  Summer,  to  develop 
strong  canes.  At  the  proper  season  these  are  pruned,  the  plants  top 
dressed,  and  the  crop  of  flowers  in  early  Spring  is  usually  a  heavy  one. 
Some  houses  of  this  Rose  in  this  vicinity  have  stood  untouched,  save  in 


168  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

pruning  and  top  dressing,  for  15  years.  The  varieties  Ulrich  Brunner^ 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet  and  Anne  de  Diesbach  force  well, 
and  for  outdoor  culture  they  are  among  the  best. 

Forcing— In  forcing  hybrid  perpetuals  the  plants  should  be  lifted 
when  the  growths  are  matured,  pruned  back,  potted  hard  and  placed  in 
a  cold  frame.  Plunge  the  pot  among  leaves,  if  there  is  a  probability  of 
their  making  a  few  roots  before  freezing  weather  without  the  buds 
starting  into  growth.  Plunging  will  keep  the  roots  safe  and  in  a  condi- 
tion ready  for  active  work.  When  brought  into  a  cool  house,  in  the 
early  part  of  the  year,  they  need  to  be  brought  on  very  gradually  so  as 
to  have  feeding  roots  when  the  buds  break.  An  examination  of  the 
roots  will  show  when  it  is  safe  to  force  growth  by  giving  gentle  heat. 
American  Beauty,  sent  out  in  1885,  is  a  perpetual  bloomer  and  has,  to  a 
certain  extent,  taken  the  place  of  most  of  the  older  forcing  varieties  of 
the  so-called  hybrid  perpetual  class.  This  variety  has  had  a  wonderful 
career  as  a  forcing  Rose,  and  it  is  unlikely  that  its  place  will  be  taken  by 
newcomers  for  some  time  at  least. 

Propagation— Roses  of  this  class  for  outdoor  growth  are  propagated 
by  budding,  grafting  and  from  cuttings.  When  it  is  desired  to  put  in 
cuttings  in  the  open  ground  the  work  should  be  done  during  the  first 
half  of  October.  Select  a  sheltered  spot.  Have  the  ground  freshly 
worked,  or,  better  still,  the  cuttings  may  be  put  in  as  the  ground  is  dug. 
The  cuttings  should  be  at  least  9  inches  in  length  and  only  an  inch  or  so 
should  be  exposed  above  the  surface.  Those  cuttings  having  a  heel  are 
not  so  liable  to  decay  as  those  cut  between  leaves,  or  at  the  base  of  a 
leaf.  They  should  always  be  put  in  with  the  aid  of  a  spade,  as  it  allows 
firming  with  the  feet;  and  if  the  soil  needs  it  a  little  sand  should  be 
added  while  the  trench  is  open,  to  induce  healthy  rooting.  Half-rotted 
leaves,  or  rough  stable  litter,  should  be  spread  over  the  whole  during 
hard  freezing  weather.  When  they  are  to  be  rooted  indoors,  the  cuttings 
should  be  taken  off  later,  tied  in  bundles  and  their  bottom  ends  placed 
in  moss,  in  a  place  low  enough  in  temperature  to  keep  the  buds  dor- 
mant. In  Spring  place  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  with  the  atmosphere 
cool.  They  will  root  readily  by  this  method.  The  cuttings  must  be 
potted  before  the  roots  get  long.  In  potting  have  the  soil  moderately 
moist,  so  that  they  will  need  little  water  until  the  roots  begin  to  take 
with  the  soil.  In  grafting,  which  is  done  in  Spring,  cut  back  plants  of 
the  Manetti  and  Dog  Rose  are  used,  or  pieces  of  the  roots  of  these,  or 
the  roots  of  any  of  the  free  growing  Roses,  such  as  Mme.  Plantier. 
Budding  on  stocks  of  Manetti,  or  the  Dog  Rose,  is  done  in  the  open 
ground  in  late  Summer. 

Propagation  by  Seeds— New  varieties  are  largely  raised  from  seeds 
ripened  from  hand-pollinated  flowers.  In  raising  plants  from  seeds, 
if  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  they  germinate  very  irregularly.  Some  of 
the  hybrid  perpetuals  will  germinate  part  of  a  crop  and  some  of  them 
will  flower  in  two  months  from  date  of  sowing.  Other  seedlings,  ger- 
minated at  the  same  period,  will  take  at  least  a  year  to  bloom,  while 
other  seeds  of  the  same  batch  will  lie  in  the  seed  pan  over  a  year  before 
vegetating.    The  reason  why  the  seeds  sometimes  remain  a  long  time 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  169 

in  the  soil  before  germinating  is  owing  to  their  being  inclosed  by  a 
horny  substance.  This  should  be  softened  before  sowing,  by  allowing 
the  seeds  to  remain  in  boxes  of  finely  sifted  sand  during  the  Winter,  the 
boxes  to  be  buried  several  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  out-of- 
doors.  In  removing  the  seeds  from  the  sand  previous  to  sowing,  use  a 
sieve  with  a  small  mesh;  empty  the  sand  (which  is  likely  to  be  wet) 
into  this,  and  force  the  sand  through  the  meshes  with  the  aid  of  a  stream 
of  water  from  the  hose.  The  seeds  should  then  be  sown  before  getting 
dry.  Care  must  be  talien  to  remove  them  from  their  Winter  quarters 
before  vegetating,  which  they  are  apt  to  do,  even  when  they  are  deep 
in  the  soil,  as  soon  as  the  temperature  of  their  surroundings  reaches 
40  degrees. 

Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  are  the  most  important  of  all  the  classes, 
because  they  include  the  Roses  mostly  grown  under  glass  to  supply 
flowers  all  the  year  round.  Although  the  varieties  annually  raised  are 
numerous  enough,  those  mostly  grown  in  large  quantities  are  either  old 
kinds  or  sports  from  old  kinds.  Catherine  Mermet  is  the  parent  of  two 
—Bride  and  Bridesmaid;  it  is  over  30  years  since  it  was  raised.  La 
France,  a  hybrid  Tea,  the  parentage  of  which  is  unknown,  but  it  is  said 
to  have  been  raised  from  seed  of  a  Tea  Rose,  is  between  30  and  40  years 
old.  Although  in  some  cities  a  back  number,  in  Washington  it  ranks 
next  to  American  Beauty  in  price  during  the  Winter,  and  is  much  in 
demand.  Two  of  its  sports.  Duchess  of  Albany  and  Augustine  Guinois- 
seau,  have  had  their  innings  as  forcing  plants.  If  Golden  Gate  could  be 
grown  everywhere  alike  in  size  of  flower,  stem  and  productiveness,  as  it 
is  in  this  locality,  it  would  be  a  more  popular  Rose.  Some  flowers 
obtained  here  and  exhibited  in  a  Northprn  city  not  long  ago,  were  taken 
for  extra  fine  specimens  of  Souvenir  du  President  Carnot — a  hybrid  Tea, 
which,  like  many  others,  has  not  fulfilled  the  predictions  made  for  it  a 
few  seasons  ago  when  first  sent  out.  It  has  a  habit  of  going  to  rest 
during  the  season  when  most  wanted;  but  grand  results  are  easily 
secured  by  resting,  freezing  and  starting  the  plants,  to  have  them  in 
bloom  by  Easter,  and  depending  upon  them  later  for  a  supply  of  bloom 
during  the  Summer.  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  another  Rose  of  the 
same  class,  gives  good  results  by  similar  methods.  Meteor,  a  hybrid 
Tea,  raised  in  the  eighties,  has  been  popular  where  tried,  but  solely  on 
account  of  its  color,  which  is  dark  crimson.  The  list  of  kinds  which 
have  been  tried  for  forcing  and  discarded  is  a  long  one.  Scarcely  a  year 
elapses  without  some  new  kind  being  sent  out,  and  the  fate  of  most  of 
them  is  determined  after  a  short  trial. 

For  Out"door  Bloom  the  Teas  are  getting  more  popular  year  by  year, 
and  deservedly  so,  as  they  flower  continuously  during  the  Summer  and 
Autumn  months.  If  given  a  mulching  of  rotted  manure  and  watered 
occasionally  during  dry  spells,  they  are  much  more  satisfactory  than 
the  hybrid  perpetuals.  Most  of  the  kinds  are  quite  hardy  in  this  section. 
The  tops  are,  of  course,  frequently  killed,  but  this  makes  little  difference, 
as  the  strong  flowering  wood  is  made  from  the  base  of  the  plants. 
Even  much  further  North  many  of  the  kinds  will  stand  the  Winter,  if 
protected  by  some  loose  material  over  the  roots.  But  even  where  they 
are  killed  annually,  the  plants  used  during  the  Winter  in  the  benches 


170  BARDY  SBRUBS. 

make  excellent  material  for  planting  out.  If  cut  back  and  potted  they 
take  about  ten  days,  in  a  suitable  temperature,  to  throw  out  roots 
enough  to  insure  successful  growth  when  planted  in  the  open  border. 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  Bridesmaid,  La  France  and  its  forms,  Sou- 
venir du  President  Carnot,  Belle  Siebrecht,  Antoine  Rivoire  and  White 
Maman  Cochet  are  a  few  among  a  large  number  of  others  which  can  be 
depended  upon  to  succeed.  Among  the  other  ever-blooming  kinds  R. 
rugosa  and  its  hybrids  are  coming  into  prominence.  One  of  the  first 
hybrids,  raised  about  12  years  ago,  is  named  Mme.  Georges  Bruant. 
The  flowers  are  large,  semi-double,  very  sweetly  scented,  and  in  color 
are  almost  white,  having  a  slight  creamy  shade  to  them.  Under  favor- 
able conditions,  that  is,  where  they  are  encouraged  to  send  up  fresh 
growths,  blooms  will  be  produced  all  through  the  season.  Blanc  de 
Coubert  seems  to  be  a  double  form  of  Rosa  rugosa  alba;  it  bears  a  pure 
white  flower,  is  free  blooming,  and  should  be  in  every  collection.  The 
hybrid  climbing  Roses  include  such  kinds  as  Paul's  Carmine  Pillar  and 
Climbing  Victor  Verdier.  Coquette  des  Alpes  and  Coquette  des  Blanches 
are  representatives  of  the  Hybrid  Noisettes.  Other  well-known  ever- 
bloomers  are  Clothilde  Soupert  (Polyantha),  Hermosa  (Bourbon),  and 
Champion  of  the  World  (Hybrid  Bourbon). 

Cultivation  Under  Glass— Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  are  the  Roses  most 
largely  grown  for  this  purpose  They  are  easiest  propagated  from  cut- 
tings of  the  half-ripened  wood.  It  does  not  seem  to  make  much  differ- 
ence whether  flowering  or  blind  wood  is  used.  Cuttings  may  be  taken 
to  single  eyes  with  the  leaf  shortened  back,  or  made  with  two  eyes  and 
the  lower  leaf  removed.  A  bottom  heat  of  from  65  to  70  degrees  will 
answer,  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  being  10  degrees  lower.  Propaga- 
tion is  carried  on  from  January  to  March.  The  plants  are  put  out  on 
the  benches  during  June,  from  3  or  4-inch  pots,  according  to  variety. 
Four  inches  of  soil  is  the  usual  quantity ;  the  kind  used  should  be  rather 
heavy  and  fibrous  loam  mixed  with  rotted  cow  manure  to  about  one- 
sixtL-  of  its  bulk.  Subsequent  mulchings  of  rotted  manure  mixed  with 
bone  meal  are  given  as  the  plants  show  the  necessity  for  them.  Abun- 
dance of  ventilation  is  afforded  during  warm  weather.  If  shading  is  ne- 
cessary it  should  be  done  with  a  substance  which  is  easily  removed,  such 
as  grafting  clay  mixed  with  water  and  applied  with  a  syringe  or  pump. 
Firing  should  begin  when  the  outside  temperature  drops  to  50  degrees; 
the  minimum  night  temperature  of  the  house  should  be  kept  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  55  degrees,  rising  to  70  degrees  during  the  day  for  the  Teas 
and  Hybrid  Teas,  with  the  exception  of  Meteor,  which  thrives  best  with 
a  minimum  of  65  degrees.  Watering  is  an  item  of  the  first  importance. 
The  condition  of  the  soil  is  the  best  indicator  as  to  whether  water  should 
be  given  or  withheld.  The  first  buds  are  cut  off  to  induce  robust 
growth.  Syringing  is  necessary,  to  prevent  red  spider  from  increasing, 
but  should  only  be  practiced  in  iDright  weather.  Ventilation  is  not  less 
important  than  watering,  and  good  judgment  must  be  exercised  in 
opening  and  closing  the  house;  the  condition  of  the  weather  out-of- 
doors  must  always  be  taken  into  consideration  as  well  as  the  indoor 
temperature,  as  cold  draughts,  or  the  temperature  getting  too  low  will 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  171 

almost  certainly  provide  correct  conditions  for  an  attacls  of  mildew— a 
fungus  which  in  a  short  period,  if  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  will  ruin 
the  plants.  When  mildew  makes  its  appearance,  sulphur  applied  to  the 
steam  or  hot  water  pipes  is  the  best  antidote.  Aphides  are  best  checked 
by  vaporizing.  American  Beauty,  as  already  stated,  is  a  hybrid  per- 
petual, and  when  cultivated  under  glass  it  is  an  ever-bloomer.  It  is 
grown  in  a  slightly  warmer  atmosphere  than  the  Teas,  and  is  often  very 
successfully  cultivated  in  solid  beds.  Medium-sized  wood  should  be 
chosen  for  the  cuttings,  and  these  made  with  two  eyes.  They  should 
be  planted  out  of  4-inch  pots. 

Propagation  by  Grafting— There  seems  to  be  a  difference  of  opinion 
as  to  the  benefits  to  be  derived  from  this  method  of  propagation,  but 
each  grower  may  settle  it  for  himself  by  giving  it  a  trial.  The  stocks 
should  be  prepared  by  potting  in  3-inch  pots;  in  thickness  they  should 
correspond  as  near  as  possible  with  that  of  the  cion — the  cion  should 
never  be  of  a  greater  diameter  than  that  of  the  stock.  Any  of  the  com- 
mon methods  of  grafting  will  answer.  The  cion  should  be  securely 
fastened  in  position  with  raffia.  As  soon  as  tying  is  completed,  it  is 
necessary  that  the  plants  be  kept  in  a  suitable  atmosphere  to  preserve 
the  leaves  of  the  cions  so  that  the  union  may  be  hastened.  In  grafting 
hybrids  this  is  not  so  necessary,  as  they  can  be  handled  without  leaves. 
A  brisk  heat  under  the  plunging  material  will  quicken  the  action  of  the 
roots  and  effect  a  union  safely  without  the  aid  of  a  frame;  but  with 
Teas  it  is  necessary  to  have  them  in  an  almost  air-tight  structure.  If 
only  a  few  hundred  are  to  be  experimented  with,  part  of  a  side  bench 
may  be  set  apart  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the  grafted  plants,  and 
may  be  prepared  as  follows:  Have  the  front  and  back  boards  higher 
than  the  plants.  Ordinary  sash  laid  lengthwise  of  the  bench  will  suit 
all  right,  provided  they  can  be  arranged  so  as  to  keep  the  atmosphere 
warm  and  humid.  To  facilitate  easy  access  to  the  plants  the  sash  may 
be  temporarily  hinged  on  to  the  back  boards  with  pieces  of  leather,  and 
the  sash  tilted  in  front  with  a  stick.  Select  a  stretch  of  bench  that  can 
be  relied  upon  to  supply  a  temperature  of  from  70  to  80  degrees  inside 
of  the  frame.  First  put  a  layer  of  sphagnum  on  the  bench — one  inch 
closely  packed  will  do.  Over  this  put  some  ashes,  or  sand,  on  which  to 
stand  the  pots.  The  other  conditions  necessary  for  a  quick  union  will 
readily  sugest  themselves,  air  being  given  very  gradually  after  the  union 
has  taken  place.  When  hardened  off,  growth  will  be  accelerated  by  a 
shift  into  larger  pots. 

Summer  Roses — According  to  locality  May,  June  and  July  is  the 
period  during  which  the  Summer  Roses  bloom.  They  are  known  as 
Ayrshire,  Prairie,  Austrian,  Moss,  Provence  (Cabbage  or  Centifolia),  Mul- 
tiflora.  Hybrid  Sweet  Briars,  Hybrid  China,  Musk  and  Hybrid  Wichu- 
raiana.  Bennett's  Seedling  is  a  well-known  representative  of  the  Ayr- 
shire class.  Among  the  Prairie  Roses  Baltimore  Belle  and  Queen  of  the 
Prairies  are  old  but  grand  kinds,  splendidly  adapted  as  climbers;  they 
are  very  hardy  and  late  in  blooming.  The  Austrian  Briars  are  among 
the  earliest  to  flower;  they  form  good-sized  bushes  and  require  little 
attention  in  the  way  of  pruning.  Austrian  Copper  has  large,  single 
flowers  of  a  brilliant  coppery-red  on  the  upper  surfaces  of  the  petals; 


172  HARDY  SHRUBS, 

the  under  surfaces  are  much  paler  in  color.  Austrian  Yellow  has  large 
single  yellow  flowers.  Harison's  Yellow  and  Persian  Yellow  are  semi- 
double  forms.  The  Wichuraiana  hybrids  are  destined  to  cut  quite  a 
figure  as  hardy  climbers.  The  female  parent,  R.  Wichuraiana  (R.  Lucia^) 
is  a  Japanese  species,  of  a  rambling  habit,  with  clusters  of  small  white 
flowers,  which  open  late.  The  leaves  are  small  and  shining.  The  plant 
lasts  only  a  short  time  in  bloom,  but  a  well-estabhshed  subject  bears 
thousands  of  flowers.  This  is  the  easiest  of  all  Roses  to  propagate. 
The  new  race  of  hybrids  which  have  been  raised  lately  are,  in  some 
cases,  several  weeks  ahead  of  R.  Wichuraiana  in  blooming ;  they  appear 
to  be  very  hardy.  The  flowers  of  R.  Wichuraiana  are  capable  of  being 
fertihzed  with  pollen  from  a  large  number  of  different  varieties,  and  the 
resulting  progeny  varies  greatly.  Some  have  large,  single  flowers 
exceeding  in  size  any  of  the  recent  hybrid  Sweet  Briars;  others  are 
email,  very  double,  with  petals  arranged  like  the  florets  of  a  Zinnia. 
Some  again  have  the  flowers  so  closely  resembling  those  of  the  variety 
Hermosa  as  to  be  mistaken  for  these,  but  the  habit  of  all  of  the  seed- 
lings, so  far  as  I  have  observed,  is  the  same.  W.  A.  Manda,  of  South 
Orange,  N.  J.,  was  the  flrst  to  raise  hybrids  from  this  species.  Lord 
Penzance's  Hybrid  Briars  also  belong  to  the  Summer  blooming  class.  R. 
rubiginosa,  the  Sweet  Briar,  is  the  seed  parent;  this  has  been  crossed 
with  various  other  Roses.  The  flowers  of  the  hybrids  are  bright  col- 
ored and  showy,  but  the  most  attractive  feature  is  the  sweet-scented 
foliage. 

During  recent  years  the  Summer  blooming  section  has  been  enriched 
by  a  Rose  concerning  which  little  is  known  beyond  its  being  a  Japanese 
production.  It  was  brought  to  Scotland  early  in  the  seventies,  and  for 
nearly  20  years  grew  in  the  garden  of  a  Mr.  Jenner,  near  Edinburgh.  It 
was  secured  by  Turner,  of  Slough,  and  sent  out  in  1894.  The  name 
''  Engineer,"  which  it  had  borne  up  to  that  time,  was  changed  to  Crim- 
son Rambler.  It  is  a  climber,  of  very  vigorous  growth,  and  very  hardy. 
The  flowers  are  borne  in  large  clusters.  The  color  is  bright  crimson.  As 
was  to  be  expected  the  great  popularity  of  this  Rose  suggested  Pink, 
Yellow  and  White  Ramblers,  but  while  the  Roses  which  are  thus 
described  are  good  in  their  way,  we  have  yet  to  see  pink,  yellow  and 
white  forms  of  the  Crimson  Rambler.  This  Rose  has  become  a  favorite 
sort  for  forcing  into  bloom  at  Easter,  the  plants  for  which  purpose  are 
either  grown  in  pots  or  in  the  open  ground.  Plants  grown  by  the  latter 
method  are  much  stronger  than  those  in  pots,  but  they  require  greater 
care  in  handling.  The  roots  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  the  least  dry 
before  potting.  It  is  propagated  in  Spring  and  Autumn.  When  the 
wood  is  ripe  and  the  leaves  begin  to  fall,  quite  a  number  of  short  stubby 
growths  will  be  found  on  the  flowering  shoots  of  the  previous  Summer's 
flowering  wood;  these,  if  made  into  cuttings  about  10  inches  long,  and 
buried  up  to  within  an  inch  of  the  ends  of  the  shoots,  will  root  freely. 
Place  them  in  some  shaded  spot,  and  in  Winter  cover  with  half-decayed 
leaves  or  straw  to  prevent  quick  thawing  and  freezing.  A  quicker 
method  of  propagation  is  to  take  half-ripened  wood  from  indoor  plants 
in  Spring;  these  are  potted  as  soon  as  rooted,  and  either  grown  on  in 
pots  or  planted  out  when  weather  permits. 


HARDY   SHRUBS.  173 

SHEPHERDIA  ARQENTEA  (Rabbit  Berry)— Under  favorable  conditions 
this  species  grows  into  a  small  tree.  I'he  leaves,  owing  to  the  presence 
of  an  immense  number  of  small  silvery  scales,  are  almost  white  on  both 
sides,  and  from  a  distance  the  plants  look  as  if  they  were  covered  with 
white  flowers.  The  blooms  are  small,  produced  singly  or  in  pairs  in  the 
axils  of  the  leaves;  they  are  exceedingly  fragrant.  S.  canadensis  is  a 
smaller  species,  reaching  a  height  of  6  feet.  Both  are  easily  raised  from 
seeds. 

SPIRvCA— The  shrubby  species  worth  growing;  are  too  numerous  to 
mention  here.  One  of  the  earliest  to  flower,  and  a  favorite  kind,  is  S. 
prunifolia;  S.  Reevesii  and  its  double  form  are  both  popular.  S.  Thun- 
bergii  blooms  very  early  in  the  season  when  there  are  but  few  leaves 
on  the  plant;  the  flowers  are  small,  but  they  make  up  in  numbers  for 
what  they  lack  in  size.  All  of  the  above  have  white  flowers.  S.  salici- 
folia  and  its  varieties  bloom  in  dense  panicles  late  in  the  season.  This, 
with  S.  paniculata  rosea,  another  late  bloomer,  has  pink  flowers.  S. 
Van  Houttei  is  one  of  the  best  kinds  which  flower  in  May  or  June;  it 
makes  a  good  forcing  plant.  S.  Bumalda  and  S.  B.  Anthony  Waterer 
have  the  flowers  disposed  on  the  ends  of  the  shoots  of  the  current  year's 
growths,  in  flat  heads,  several  inches  in  diameter.  In  S.  Bumalda  the 
flowers  are  rose  colored;  its  variety  has  dark  crimson  blossoms.  Both 
are  dwarf,  but  very  vigorous  and  easily  propagated  from  the  young 
wood.  S.  sorbifolia,  S.  grandiflora  and  S.  L.indleyana  are  distinct  from 
the  others  in  having  odd-pinnate  leaves  and  the  flowers  arranged  in 
large  panicles,  produced  late  in  the  season.  S.  sorbifoha  dies  down  to 
the  ground  each  season,  and  during  extra  hard  Winters  the  other  two 
behave  in  a  similar  way;  but  they  make  growth  enough  the  following 
Summer  to  flower.  S.  Lindleyana  is  useful  for  planting  in  large  groups. 
A  native  of  the  Himalayas  it  is  probably  unsuited  for  Northern  sections 
unless  well  protected.  All  three  are  easily  raised  from  seeds,  or  by 
division. 

STAPHYLEA  (Bladder  Nut)— S.  colchica  and  S.  Bumalda  bloom  very 
early  in  the  season.  They  have  the  reputation  of  being  the  easiest 
shrubs  to  bring  into  flower  under  artificial  conditions.  They  belong  to 
the  Maple  family,  and  are  natives  of  Japan  and  Europe.  S.  colchica  has 
fairly  large-sized  racemes  of  almost  pure;  white  flowers,  very  agreeably 
scented.  Young  plants  with  flowering  wood  can  be  got  up  in  two  years 
by  taking  cuttings  of  dormant  wood  in  Autumn,  heeling  in  moss,  intro- 
ducing them  to  gentle  bottom  heat  in  March. 

SYMPHORICARPUS  RACEMOSUS  (Snowberry)— This  species  is  grown 
on  account  of  the  large  white  fruits  which  hang  from  the  ends  of  the 
branches  during  the  Autumn  and  Winter  months.  S.  vulgaris  has  red 
fruits,  but  much  smaller  than  those  of  S.  racemosus.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  seed,  cuttings,  or  by  division. 

SYRINGA  (Lilac)— About  a  dozen  species  of  this  popular  genus  are  in 
cultivation.  Most  of  them,  however,  are  of  little  value  for  cut  bloom. 
They  are  handsome  while  in  flower,  but  they  do  not  pay  to  grow  along- 
side of  the  varieties  of  the  common  species,  S.  vulgaris.    Of  these  there  is 


174  HARDY  SHRUBS. 

an  abundance  to  choose  from.  S.  chinensis,  a  small-leaved  kind,  is  valu- 
able on  account  of  the  long  stems  which  support  the  flower  heads.  S. 
persica,  the  Persian  lilac,  and  S.  p.  laciniata  make  rather  handsome 
bushes,  -v^hich  is  more  than  can  be  said  of  most  of  the  kinds,  as  they  are 
decidedly  unsightly  when  out  of  bloom  compared  with  the  majority  of 
ornamental  shrubs.  They  are  all  natives  of  the  old  world.  S.  vulgaris 
is  indigenous  of  central  Europe.  Some  of  the  finer  varieties  are  as  fol- 
lows: Alba  grandiflora  and  Marie  Legraye,  both  large  flowered  and 
pure  white  forms;  Louis  Van  Houtte,  dark  red;  Dr.  Lindley,  purplish 
lilac;  Charles  X.,  reddish-purple;  Leon  Simon,  double,  bluish-crimson; 
Emile  Lemoine,  double,  rosy -lilac;  Mme.  Lemoine,  double  white.  Propa- 
gation is  effected  on  in  a  variety  of  ways— seeds,  suckers,  layering,  cut- 
tings from  half  ripe  or  dormant  wood,  budding  and  grafting.  Raising 
plants  from  seeds  is  practiced  for  producing  new  varieties  and  for  sup- 
plying stocks.  The  best  stock  is  the  Californian  Privet,  Ligustrum  ova- 
lifolium.  Layering  is  a  sure  method,  and  when  a  limited  number  of 
plants  is  wanted  it  is  the  one  which  should  be  practiced. 

TAMARIX — All  of  the  species  give  little  trouble  in  their  propagation. 
If  cuttings  6  inches  long  be  made  from  the  previous  year's  wood,  and 
put  in  gentle  heat  in  the  early  Spring,  they  will  root  in  a  few  days.  Out- 
door propagation  will  require  the  cuttings  to  be  made  nearly  a  foot 
long. 

ULEX  EUROP^EUS  (Whin,  Qorse,  Furze)— Although  this  beautiful 
shrub  frequently  gets  winter-killed  with  us,  yet  we  would  not  think  of 
doing  without  it.  It  is  useful  for  planting  in  the  front  of  a  shrubbery, 
in  sunny  places.  It  starts  into  active  growth  very  early  in  the  season, 
and  late  frosts  do  more  injury  than  the  very  severe  frosts  of  midwinter, 
although,  like  many  other  things,  it  does  not  like  rapid  thawing  and 
freezing  during  Winter.  Seedlings  are  easily  raised,  and  with  good 
treatment  they  will  bloom  when  two  years  old. 

VIBURNUM,  (Snowball,  Queder  Rose)— Owing  to  their  large  and 
showy  heads  of  sterile  flowers,  several  of  the  kinds  are  much  grown  in 
shrubberies,  in  groups  on  lawns,  and  for  cutting.  V.  Opulus  sterilis  is 
the  one  most  largely  cultivated;  it  comes  in  earlier  than  the  Japanese 
species,  V.  plicatum,  ;which  is  the  best  for  cutting,  as  the  flowers  last 
longer,  having  more  substance  to]  them.  When  propagated  from  cut- 
tings the  growing  tips  should  be  taken  in  Summer;  this  must  be  done 
during  a  wet  spell  or  from  bushes  which  have  been  kept  watered,  other- 
wise the  cuttings  are  very  apt  to  lose  their  leaves  during  the  process. 
V.  macrocephalum,  as  the  name  implies,  has  large  heads  of  flowers;  in 
fact,  too  large  to  be  of  much  service  in  cutting.  This  form  is  shy  in  root- 
ing from  cuttings,  and  is  usually  worked  on  seedlings  of  any  of  the  free- 
growing  species.  There  are  numerous  species,  but  their  flowers  are  not 
showy.  V.  reticulatum  has  very  handsome  foliage,  and  forms  a  neat 
tall  bush.  Propagated  from  green  cuttings.  V.  Tinus  is  an  evergraen 
species,  frequently  getting  injured  here  during  Winter;  there  are  several 
desirable  forms  of  it. 

VITEX  AQNUS-CASTUS  (Chaste  Tree)— In  this  section  one  of  our 
best  late  blooming  shrubs,  surviving  the  Winter  without  protection. 


HARDY  SHRUBS.  175 

The  flowers  are  purplish-blue  or  white.  The  plant  blooms  in  August 
and  September.  V.  cannabaefolia  forms  large,  wide  bushes,  but  it  suffers 
during  very  severe  weather.  Both  species  are  best  raised  from  seeds. 
There  is  a  hybrid  form  between  the  two  species,  with  V.  Agnus-castus 
as  the  seed  parent;  it  is  equally  as  hardy  as  that  species,  and  comes 
true  from  seed. 

XANTHOCERAS  SORBIFOLIA,  a  native  of  Central  China,  was  first 
grown  in  Europe  about  80  years  ago.  It  flowers  after  reaching  a  height 
of  about  18  inches.  Adult  specimens,  it  is  said,  reach  a  height  of  20 
feet.  The  flowers  are  arranged  singly,  on  a  central  stalk,  which  is  sev- 
eral inches  long.  The  stalk  is  upright,  the  bottom  flowers  opening  first. 
In  general  appearance  the  individual  flowers  have  a  striking  resemblance 
to  those  of  the  Shortia  galacifolia.  They  have  the  same  crumpled  appear- 
ance on  first  opening.  The  outward  parts  of  the  petals  are  pure  white,  and 
nearest  the  base  the  color  is  at  first  yellowish  green,  subsequently 
streaked  with  brownish-red  and  eventually  changing  to  a  brighter  red. 
The  flower  stalks  are  produced  on  the  ends  of  the  previous  season's  wood; 
flowers  and  foliage  expand  together.  In  appearance  the  foliage  some- 
what resembles  that  of  the  Mountain  Ash.  The  fruit  is  quite  large,  fully 
the  size  of  a  horse  chestnut.  The  seeds  are  brownish  black,  three-quar- 
ters of  an  inch  in  diameter.  They  should  be  sown  soon  as  ripe  and  kept 
cool  so  as  not  to  force  germination  until  the  middle  of  April.  To  insure 
the  best  results  each  seed  should  be  sown  singly  in  a  3-inch  pot.  This 
does  away  with  the  possibility  of  injuring  the  tender  roots  in  transfer- 
ring to  larger  receptacles  or  to  nursery  rows.  From  some  cause  many 
of  the  seeds  produce  plants  which  are  entirely  white  instead  of  green; 
these  die  when  a  few  weeks  old. 

YUCCA  (Adam's  Needle)— The  hardy  species  of  this  genus  are  all 
ornamental  plants  thriving  in  situations  fully  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Almost  any  soil  will  suit  them.  Some  of  the  most  useful  species  are  Y. 
gloriosa  (of  which  there  are  numerous  varieties,  one  of  the  best  being 
Y.  g.  recurvifolia),  Y.  angustifolia  and  Y.  filamentosa.  They  are 
increased  by  dividing  the  stems  and  replanting  in  a  shaded  spot  until 
rooted;  also,  in  some  species,  by  seeds,  and  from  root  cuttings. 


176 


General  Directions^ 

Pfopagfation — Seeds,    Grafting:,    Buddingf,    and    Laycfingf — 
Hybridization,  Potting  Plants,  Drainage,  Soil, 
Mulching,  Watering* 

PROPAGATION. 

All  plants  may  be  propagated  by  one  or  more  of  the  following 
methods:  Seeds,  spores,  bulbils,  budding,  grafting,  layering,  cuttings  of 
the  stems,  twigs,  leaves  and  roots,  suckers,  divisions  of  the  crowns  or 
by  stolons  or  runners.  Cuttings  are  usually  made  from  dormant  wood 
in  the  cases  of  shrubs  and  trees  whether  they  be  evergreen  or  deciduous; 
and  in  the  case  of  soft  wooded  plants  the  growths  most  recently  made 
are  those  selected.  Cuttings  of  leaves  sometimes  root  freely  and  produce 
young  plants  or  tubers,  as  in  Begonia  rex  and  Gloxinia.  There  are  many 
devices  in  which  to  root  cuttings,  such  as  double  bell  glasses  placed  over 
double  pots,  one  of  the  pots  being  supphed  with  water,  the  other  with 
sand;  handlights,  and  so  forth;  but  they  are  of  little  service  and  are 
seldom  used.  Deciduous  shrubs  are  usually  propagated  out-of-doors. 
Hardy  perennials,  such  as  Iberis,  Dianthus  and  Onosma  are  propagated 
in  cold  frames.  Many  of  the  evergreen  shrubs  do  well  in  a  propagating 
house  from  which  frost  is  kept  out,  while  the  tender  plants,  both  hard 
and  soft  wooded,  are  rooted  in  an  open  bed  of  a  warm  house  the  atmos- 
pheric temperature  of  which  does  not  fall  lower  than  55  degrees  during 
the  coldest  weather.  For  plants  which  need  more  heat  a  propagating 
frame  is  easily  erected  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  house;  this,  with  a 
minimum  bottom  heat  of  75  degrees,  serves  for  Nepenthes  and  other 
plants  slow  to  root  under  ordinary  conditions.  Propagation  by 
suckers,  division,  stolons  and  runners  is  an  easy  matter,  and  each  species 
so  treated  readily  suggests  the  means  to  be  employed.  Many  plants 
difficult  to  propagate  by  the  usual  methods  of  cuttings  of  the  branches 
yield  readily  to  cuttings  made  from  the  roots.  The  Moss  Rose  is  a  fa- 
miliar example.  Clerodendrons,  Fatsias,  Paulownia  imperialis.  Rasp- 
berry, Blackberry  and  Xanthoceras  all  come  freely  from  roots.  Among  the 
herbaceous  plants  the  roots  of  Anemone  japonica  and  Lychnis  vesper- 
tina,  when  cut  up  quite  small,  will  give  plants  from  every  piece.  Ind'oor 
plants,  such  as  Manettia  cordifolia  and  Cephselis  ipecacuanha  will  give 
plants  more  readily  by  this  method  than  any  other. 

Seeds— The  soil  in  which  to  sow  seeds,  especially  that  portion  of  it 
which  is  near  the  surface,  and  in  which  there  are  weed  seeds,  should  be 
prepared  beforehand  so  as  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  pulling  up  the  weeds 
and  the  consequent  danger  attending  the  operation  of  dislodging  the 
seeds  which  we  wish  to  germinate,  especially  during  the  process  of  ger- 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS.  Ill 

mination.  The  most  natural  method  is  to  spread  the  soil  out  on  a  flat 
surface  in  a  hothouse  and  encourage  the  weed  seeds  to  germinate  by  the 
aid  of  heat  and  moisture.  The  soil  should  be  spread  out  quite  shallow, 
and  in  a  few  days'  time  the  seeds  that  are  likely  to  prove  most  trouble- 
some will  have  germinated.  The  weeds  that  one  finds  most  noxious  are 
quick  in  germinating,  and  will  be  rendered  harmless  by  this  method. 
They  are  principally  Lamium,  Plantago,  Ragweed,  Grasses,  Draba,  An- 
themis,  Rumex,  Portulaca,  Acalpyha,  Oxalis  and  Trifolium ;  but  the  list 
varies  with  different  localities.  Burning  or  steaming  the  soil  is  often 
resorted  to,  but  for  seed  sowing  I  prefer  the  other  method  as  more  likely 
to  rid  the  soil  thoroughly  of  the  common,  troublesome  weeds.  Soil  in- 
tended for  use  in  connection  with  raising  Ferns  from  spores  should  be 
treated  even  more  carefully,  in  order  to  destroy  every  vestige  of  vegeta- 
ble life.  To  do  this  thoroughly  the  soil  should  be  boiled  for  a  reasonable 
length  of  time,  and  afterward  dried  in  the  sun.  Seedlings  which  from 
their  nature  require  pricking  off  (that  is  putting  around  the  outer  edge 
of  the  soil  in  pots,  or  in  rows,  in  boxes)  shortly  after  the  seed  leaves  are 
developed,  should  be  raised  in  seed  vessels  which  have  at  least  half  their 
depth  devoted  to  drainage.  Most  of  this  should  consist  of  pieces  of 
broken  pots,  or  cinders,  covered  over  with  some  rough  material,  such  as 
half-decayed  leaves,  to  prevent  the  soil  washing  down.  In  very  shallow 
seed  vessels,  whether  pans  or  boxes,  the  bottom  part  should  be  covered 
with  rough  screenings,  with  finer  soil  above,  and  pressed  moderately 
firm.  In  covering  the  seeds  the  old  rule  is  to  cover  the  seed  with  its  own 
thickness  in  soil,  and  if  followed  out  few  mistakes  will  be  made.  The 
covering  should  not  be  of  such  a  nature  as  to  bake  readily;  finely 
screened  sphagnum  moss  mixed  with  sand  is  a  good  substance  with 
which  to  cover  almost  any  medium-sized  seeds  that  take  a  reasonably 
short  time  in  germinating,  as  it  retains  moisture  without  imparting  too 
much  to  the  soil  below.  Very  small  seeds,  such  as  those  of  Begonias 
and  Gloxinias,  do  not  need  any  covering;  but  to  preserve  a  humid 
atmosphere  around  them,  or  to  furnish  the  conditions  necessary  for 
germination,  they  must  be  covered  with  something  which  prevents  a 
too  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture.  This  is  supplied  by  a  pane  of  glass, 
which  should  be  kept  on  until  the  seed  leaves  appear.  It  need  not  fit 
tightly,  so  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  a  slight  circulation  of  air; 
where  this  is  the  case  the  seedlings  are  apt  to  dampen,  even  before  the 
seed  leaves  are  developed.  Where  glass  is  used  as  a  covering  for  small 
seeds  the  soil  ought  to  be  moderately  moist  before  sowing.  Thickly 
sown  seed  is  an  evil  to  be  guarded  against,  a  crowded  box  or  pan  of 
seedlings,  whether  they  be  Ferns  or  flowering  plants,  is  next  to  useless, 
because  shortly  after  germinating  the  seedlings  begin  to  get  weak  and 
never  afterward  make  such  healthy  plants  as  those  which  get  a  chance 
to  form  short,  stocky  growth— enough  at  least  to  enable  one  to  handle 
them  easily  during  the  operation  of  pricking  or  potting  off.  Seeds,  as 
soon  as  germinated,  as  a  rule,  should  not  be  kept  in  a  shaded  place,  as 
then  they  are  apt  to  get  "  drawn;  "  that  is,  too  much  length  between 
the  surface  of  the  soil  and  the  seed  leaves.  Most  seedlings  in  the  early 
part  of  the  season  will  stand  all  the  sun  they  can  get.  This  especially 
applies  to  seedlings  of  such  plants  as  Phlox  Drummondii,  Madagascar 


178  GENERAL   DIRECTIONS. 

Vincas  and  Verbenas.  Among  herbaceous  perennials  some  of  the  Del- 
phiniums and  Rheums,  also  many  of  the  umbelliferous  plants  have  seed- 
lings with  the  petioles  of  the  seed  leaves  forming  a  long  tube  and  looking 
as  if  they  were  very  much  "  drawn,"  no  matter  whether  grown  in  sun 
or  shade.  But  this  is  their  nature,  as  the  plumule  has  to  penetrate  the 
tube  near  the  base  in  order  to  reach  the  light,  instead  of  between  the 
blades  of  the  seed  leaves.  A  great  many  kinds  of  plants  in  the  seedling 
stage,  when  pricking  off  becomes  necessary,  are  not  of  suflQcient  size  to 
go  into  small  pots;  in  these  they  take  up  too  much  room  and  are  apt  to 
suffer  from  too  much  or  too  little  water.  One  will  get  dry  here  and 
there,  and  the  chances  are  that  when  water  is  given  others  in  the  neigh- 
borhood will  get  water  when  they  do  not  need  it.  Putting  several  in  a 
pot  is  just  as  unsatisfactory,  as  they  must  be  divided  up  as  soon  as 
sufficient  growth  is  made,  and  repotted.  This  applies  especially  to  her- 
baceous plants  which  have  a  large  number  of  flbry  roots  instead  of  a 
tap  root.  I  find  the  plan  of  putting  the  seedlings  in  boxes,  when  large 
enough  to  handle,  to  be  the  most  satisfactory  method.  Watering  is  then 
an  easy  matter,  and  the  seedlings,  when  large  enough,  can  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  open  ground  or  potted  up  as  required—  it  is  a  saving  of 
space  and  a  saving  in  labor,  especially  when  the  seedlings  are  transferred 
to  frames  and  to  their  permanent  quarters.  The  seeds  of  many  plants 
may  be  safely  sown  at  almost  any  time  of  the  year.  The  majority  of 
herbaceous  plants  should  be  sown  during  the  late  Summer,  as  they 
occupy  comparatively  |little  space  throughout  the  Winter  months,  and 
numerous  species  will  bloom  the  succeeding  year,  especially  if  the  plants 
be  put  in  their  permanent  positions  in  the  Fall,  which  I  have  found  a 
very  advisable  thing  to  do  in  this  section.  Seeds  of  herbaceous  plants, 
sown  early  in  Spring,  especially  by  amateurs,  do  not  help  in  making 
those  plants  popular,  as  the  seedlings  in  the  majority  of  cases  do  not 
flower  the  first  year,  and  some  of  the  species  not  even  during  the  second 
season. 

Grafting  consists  of  placing  together  two  separate  parts  of  plants  so 
that  they  will  unite  and  grow  as  one.  That  part  on  which  the  graft  is 
placed  is  usually  a  plant  provided  with  roots,  and  is  called  the  stock. 
The  graft,  or  cion,  is  the  part  which  is  intended  to  develop  into  the 
future  part  of  the  tree,  shrub,  or  vine,  as  the  case  may  be,  which  bears 
leaves,  flowers  and  fruits.  When  the  union  has  taken  place,  both  stock 
and  cion  continue  developing  as  one  plant,  with,  in  most  instances,  very 
little  to  indicate  that  stock  and  cion,  or  roots  and  branches,  belong  to 
different  species,  varieties,  or  forms.  Grafting  is,  however,  frequently 
done  upon  the  branches  of  trees,  shrubs  or  even  herbaceous  plants,  so 
that  frequently  we  may  see  several  varieties  in  flower  together,  or  earlier 
or  later  as  the  case  may  be,  with  the  flowers  of  the  species,  or  variety, 
upon  which  the  grafts  are  growing.  Some  of  the  reasons  why  grafting 
is  resorted  to  as  a  means  of  propagating  certain  species,  but  principally 
varieties  and  forms,  in  preference  to  other  methods  of  propagation,  are 
as  follows:  In  growing  seedling  fruit  trees  it  often  requires  a  long  num- 
ber of  years  to  know  whether  these  seedlings  are  worth  perpetuating, 
as  seedlings  are  apt  to  be  a  long  time  in  fruiting,  partly  owing  to  their 
robust  growth;  but  every  species  of  plant  raised  from  seed  takes  a  cer- 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS.  179 

tain  time  before  the  flowering  and  fruiting  stage  is  reached.  When  old 
enough  to  give  wood  for  cions,  the  seedlings  which  we  will  suppose  to 
be  the  results  of  cross-fertilization,  are  grafted  on  older  seedlingH,  or 
fruit-bearing  stocks,  with  the  result  that  flowering  and  fruiting  are  hast- 
ened very  considerably.  When  it  is  desired  to  propagate  a  large  num- 
ber of  any  selected  variety  that  has  thus  been  flowered  and  fruited,  the 
grafts  are  often  used  on  one  or  two-year-old  seedling  stocks.  It  will 
thus  be  seen  that  a  very  large  number  of  slow  flowering  and  fruiting 
plants  can  be  raised  by  this  method,  in  a  comparatively  short  time. 
But  the  uses  to  which  it  is  put  by  no  means  end  here.  Some  flowering 
shrubs  have  the  same  characteristics;  they  take  quite  a  long  while  to 
flower  from  the  seedling  stage.  Very  often  seedlings  do  not  make  florif- 
erous  plants,  and  many  of  the  forms  do  not  produce  seeds  at  all.  There- 
fore, recourse  is  had  to  grafting,  not  only  to  lessen  as  much  as  possible 
the  time  between  the  periods  of  propagation  and  flowering,  but  also  to 
perpetuate  certain  peculiarities  in  species  and  varieties  which  can  not 
be  brought  about  by  seeds  or  cuttings.  Again,  frequently  the  stock  has 
beneflcial  influences  upon  the  cion.  One  of  them  is  that  some  things 
which  are  comparatively  tender  are  rendered  hardier  by  being  grafted 
upon  the  stocks  of  hardy  species,  or  their  varieties.  For  outdoor  graft- 
ing the  usual  time  is  in  the  Spring,  just  before  the  plants  are  in  active 
growth,  the  actual  time  varying,  of  course,  with  different  plants  and  in 
different  parts  of  the  country.  The  cions  are  cut  in  early  Winter,  and 
buried  in  the  soil  or  sand,  just  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  This  keeps  them 
fresh  and  plump,  and  in  a  condition  to  readily  unite  with  the  stock. 
The  methods  of  grafting  are  numerous;  some  of  them  are  quite  compli- 
cated and  have  been  originated  merely  to  show  the  skill  of  some  oper- 
ator. The  easiest  way  may  be  said  to  be  the  best,  and  the  best  methods 
are  so  easy  that  an  intelligent  child  may  be  taught  in  a  short  time  to 
perform  the  work  successfully.  Indoor  grafting  is  practiced  during 
August  and  September,  and,  with  dormant  wood,  during  the  period 
from  December  to  March.  As  a  rule,  the  closer  the  relationship  between 
stock  and  cion  the  greater  the  chances  of  a  successful  union  between 
them.  But  plants  are  sometimes  successfully  grafted  on  stocks  of  differ- 
ent genera  of  the  same  order.  The  Syringa  on  the  Ligustrum  is  a  fa- 
mihar  example.  Some  of  the  most  familiar  methods  of  grafting  are  as 
follows: 

Saddle  Grafting— In  this  case  that  part  of  the  stock  on  which  the  cion 
is  to  be  placed  is  cut  to  a  wedge  shape.  A  neatly  made  notch  is  cut  in 
the  bottom  part  of  the  wood  of  the  cion  to  fit  closely  over  the  wedge- 
shaped  part  of  the  stock.  This  method  is  used  in  grafting  Rhododen- 
drons. 

Crown  grafting  is  performed  by  heading  back  a  large-sized  stock, 
making  an  incision  in  the  bark  from  the  severed  part  downward.  Raise 
the  bark  on  each  side  of  the  perpendicular  cut,  as  in  budding;  make  a 
slanting  cut  on  one  side  of  the  cion,  and  insert  beneath  the  bark;  bind 
together  and  cover  with  grafting  wax. 

Veneer  grafting  is  principally  practiced  on  coniferous  plants  and 
Rhododendrons.    It  consists  of  making  a  cross  cut  through  the  bark 


180  GENERAL   DIRECTIONS. 

and  slightly  into  the  wood.  A  short  distance  above  this  cross  cut  begin 
with  a  slanting  cut  downward  until  the  first  cut  is  reached;  shape  the 
cion  so  that  it  fits  exactly;  tie  in  position  and  cover  with  wax.  The 
stock  is  headed  back  after  the  union  has  taken  place. 

Tongue  or  whip  grafting  is  used  with  seedlings  as  stocks,  the  stock 
and  cion  being  of  the  same  thickness.  A  slanting  cut  is  made  on  the 
two  surfaces  to  be  joined  with  a  tongue  in  each,  so  made  that  the 
tongues  will  fit  exactly  in  their  places.  A  little  practice  will  show  where 
the  tongues  should  be  made. 

Inarching  consists  of  uniting  the  cion  to  the  stock  while  it  is  still 
supported  by  the  parent  root.  It  is  the  simplest  of  all  the  methods.  A 
slice  of  bark  and  cambium  is  cut  from  both  stock  and  cion,  the  two 
brought  together  so  as  to  fit  exactly;  they  are  then  firmly  tied.  After 
the  union  is  assured  the  cion  is  gradually  severed  from  the  parent  to 
avoid  a  too  sudden  check. 

Root  grafting  is  a  very  simple  operation,  and  is  practiced  with  such 
plants  as  Clematis,  Rose,  Shrubby  Pseony,  and  many  other  plants. 
When  all  other  stock  fails  this  may  be  tried,  merely  selecting  roots  of  the 
same  or  allied  species.  The  Shrubby  Pseonies  are  grafted  on  the  large 
tuber-looking  roots  of  the  herbaceous  species.  A  notch  is  made  in  the 
side  of  the  swollen  tuber-like  root,  the  lower  part  of  the  cion  being  made 
to  fit  this. 

With  Roses  and  Clematis  splice  grafting  will  answer;  with  Wistarias 
and  Bignonias  saddle  grafting  answers  well. 

In  grafting  a  very  sharp  and  clean  knife  should  be  used,  to  make  a 
clean  cut,  so  that  the  surfaces  may  go  closely  together.  In  all  cases  the 
bark  of  both  stock  and  cion  should  come  evenly  together,  at  least  on 
one  side,  and  on  both  if  possible. 

Budding  differs  from  grafting  in  that  only  a  single  bud  is  used  on  the 
stock  instead  of  a  piece  of  branch  on  which  there  are  one  or  more  buds. 
As  in  grafting  a  near  relationship  must  exist  between  the  plant  from 
which  the  bud  is  selected  and  the  plant  which  is  to  receive  it.  The  opera- 
tion is  a  trifle  more  delicate  than  that  of  grafting,  but  a  little  practice 
will  render  it  an  easy  task.  The  best  time  for  the  work  is  after  the 
plants  have  completed  most  of  their  growth,  but  before  they  approach 
the  dormant  stage.  All  that  is  necessary  to  accomplish  the  first  season, 
when  done  during  late  Summer,  is  to  secure  a  union.  The  bud  remains 
dormant  until  the  following  Spring.-  There  are  several  methods;  that 
most  commonly  practiced  consists  of  making  a  cross  cut  through  the 
bark  of  the  stem  of  the  stock.  It  should  never  be  greater  than  for  one- 
third  of  the  circumference.  From  the  center  of  the  cross  cut  make  a  longi- 
tudinal cut  downward;  raise  the  bark  sufficiently  in  the  angles  of  the 
cut  parts.  The  stock  is  now  ready  for  the  reception  of  the  bud.  This  is 
taken  usually  from  a  branch  smaller  in  circumference  than  the  stock. 
It  must  necessarily  be  from  the  current  year's  wood,  and  the  bud  should 
be  from  the  central  part  of  the  shoot.  Cut  the  leaf  away,  but  not  too 
near  the  bud,  and  with  a  sharp,  clean  knife  slice  the  bud  from  the  shoot. 
It  is  immaterial  if  a  little  of  the  wood  be  taken  with  the  bark,  but  the 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS.  181 

length  of  bark  should  be  greater  below  the  bud  than  above.  The  top 
part  should  be  cut  off  transversely  one-third  of  an  inch  above  the  bud 
and  double  that  distance  below.  After  the  ,bud  has  been  placed  in  posi- 
tion, tie  moderately  firm  with  raflia,  examining  it  from  time  to  time  to 
prevent  the  raffia  from  cutting  into  the  bark.  Budding  is  usually  per- 
formed during  the  latter  part  of  Summer. 

Layering — This  operation  is  on  the  same  priuciple  as  that  of  mossing 
Rubber  plants  and  Crotons,  that  is,  producing  roots  on  the  branches 
while  yet  attached  to  the  parent  plant.  It  is  exceedingly  simple  when 
done  correctly,  but  some  of  the  little  details  left  out,  or  performed  the 
wrong  way,  will  render  the  operation  unsuccessful.  An  expert,  with 
shrubs  amenable  to  this  method  of  increase,  will  seldom  lose  a  layer. 
Briefly  stated,  the  operation  consists  of  bending  a  branch  low  enough 
so  that  after  it  has  been  notched,  tongued  or  ringed,  as  the  case  may 
be,  the  part  so  treated  should  be  several  inches  beneath  the  surface  of 
the  soil,  so  as  to  throw  out  roots,  while  being  at  the  same  time  supplied 
with  nourishment  from  the  parent  plant.  It  is  a  convenient  method  of 
rooting  large  pieces  of  a  bush,  and  should  be  practiced  where  small 
quantities  of  certain  things  are  desired,  especially  those  which  are  diffi- 
cult to  increase  by  other  methods  of  propagation.  In  layering  it  is 
necessary  to  select  branches  near  the  ground,  so  that  they  can  be  bent 
down  without  breaking.  To  perform  the  operation  by  tongueing,  with 
a  sharp  knife  make  an  incision  in  the  lower  part  of  the  branch  at  the 
place  where  it  is  desired  to  have  the  roots.  The  incision  should  vary  in 
length  and  depth  with  the  thickness  of  the  branch;  it  should  never  be 
deeper  than  half  the  thickness  of  the  wood,  and  should  be  made  toward 
the  end  of  the  branch  so  that  the  tongue  will  eventually  form  the  base 
of  the  stem  after  being  separated  from  the  parent  plant.  The  layer, 
while  undergoing  the  process  of  rooting,  should  be  held  in  place  with  a 
peg,  which  must  be  strong  enough  to  last  several  months  in  the  ground. 
With  few  exceptions  shrubs  and  vines  are  layered  during  Summer  while 
the  plants  are  in  active  growth.  In  layering,  it  should  be  kept  in  mind 
that  the  soil  surrounding  the  part  from  which  roots  are  desired  should 
never  be  allowed  to  get  dust  dry;  to  prevent  this  a  little  sphagnum 
moss  should  be  placed  around  the  cut  part,  in  cases  where  the  rooting 
is  a  slow  process;  and  a  layer  of  moss,  or  other  material,  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil  will  prevent  a  too  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture.  But,  in 
any  case,  copious  waterings  during  dry  weather  will  be  found  beneficial. 
In  the  treatment  of  vines,  such  plants  as  Glycine  sinensis  and  Pueraria 
Thunbergiana  can  be  layered  the  entire  length  of  the  previous  season's 
growth,  thus  giving  a  plant  at  every  joint.  The  period  at  which  the 
layer  may  be  severed  from  the  parent  must  be  governed  by  the  quantity 
of  roots  made.  Better  to  keep  it  on  the  plant  than  to  sever  too  early. 
After  a  season  has  elapsed  the  majority  will  have  rooted,  if  attention 
has  been  given;  but  it  will  not  hurt  to  let  them  stay  for  a  longer  period 
attached  to  the  old  plant.  For  furnishing  suitable  wood  for  layers,  old 
plants  are  sometimes  cut  down  quite  close  ^to  the  ground,  in  order  to 
produce  a  quantity  of  young  growth.  Plants  so  treated  are  termed 
"stools."  Some  of  the  plants  which  layer  easily  are  Rhododendrons, 
Enkianthus,  Gordonias,  MagnoUas,  especially  the  Asiatic  species  and 


182  GENERAL   DIRECTIONS. 

their  hybrid    variations,  Syringas,  Forsythias,  Ligustrums    and    the 
Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses. 

HYBRDDIZATION. 

Much  has  been  accomplished  by  the  union  of  species,  and  especially  by 
the  crossing  of  varieties;  but  the  work  is  only  in  its  infancy,  because 
that  which  has  already  been  done  has  been,  to  a  large  extent,  chance 
work.  We  do  not  possess  well-established  rules  for  guidance  in  the 
selection  of  parents.  Much  labor  has  unwittingly  been  expended 
upon  impossible  subjects,  through  a  desire  on  the  part  of  the  oper- 
ator to  produce  some  astonishing  result  all  at  once.  Even  from 
plants  which  readily  cross,  many  seedlings  are  raised,  which,  be- 
cause of  poor  judgment  used  in  selection  of  parents,  only  result  in 
discouraging  the  breeder.  Beginners  who  are  inclined  to  practice 
hybridizing  should  confine  their  attenion  toward  improving  types 
which  are  already  well  advanced,  possibly  using  a  desirable  spe- 
cies as  a  seed  parent,  but  fighting  shy  of  crossing  two  species.  To  prose- 
cute the  actual  work  inteligently,  the  operator  should  have  at  least  a 
slight  knowledge  of  the  relationship  of  one  species  to  another  as  well  as 
of  the  genera  and  natural  orders.  A  knowledge  of  the  different  parts  of 
a  flower  and  the  missions  they  are  intended  to  fulfill  are  absolutely 
necessary.  It  may  be  briefly  stated  that  most  flowers  have  male  and 
female  organs  in  the  same  flower,  such  as  we  find  in  flowers  of  the  JRose. 
Some  plants  have  the  male  and  female  organs  on  separate  flowers,  but 
on  the  same  plant  as  in  Begonia.  Others  again  have  the  male  flowers 
on  one  plant,  and  the  female  flowers  on  another,  as  in  Nepenthes  and 
Willow.  Artificial  pollination  consists  simply  in  transferring  the  pollen 
from  the  anther  of  one  flower  to  the  stigma  of  another.  To  make  sure 
that  this  pollen  will  have  every  opportunity  to  act,  and  pollen  of  the 
same  or  other  plants,  which  is  not  wanted,  excluded,  the  stamens  or 
male  organs  of  the  flower  to  be  pollinated  should  be  removed  before  the 
anthers  are  in  a  condition  to  shed  their  pollen,  and  the  flower  afterward 
tied  up  in  a  very  fine  gauze,  or  paper  bag,  during  the  process  of  fertili- 
zation. 

POTTING  PLANTS, 

No  rules  can  be  laid  down  which  would  apply  equally  to  all  kinds  of 
plants  grown  in  pots,  as  different  kinds  of  plants  require  different  treat- 
ment in  this  respect.  Some  require  that  the  soil  be  rammed  quite  firmly 
about  the  old  ball.  These,  as  a  rule,  are  hard-wooded  plants,  with  fine 
roots,  such  as  Heaths  and  Azaleas.  Palms  thrive  best  in  a  moderately 
well-firmed  soil.  Soft-growing  plants  are  less  fastidious  in  this  respect. 
Again,  there  are  seasons  when  some  plants  should  be  potted.  The  hard- 
wooded  kinds  are  usually  potted  in  Spring  before  active  growth  com- 
mences. Ferns  are  given  their  annual  shift  before  starting  into  growth; 
many  of  them,  however,  will  stand  shifting  several  times  during  a  year. 
But  for  all  plants  it  may  be  stated  that  the  beginning  of  their  resting 
season  should  find  the  ball  of  earth  well  supplied  with  roots,  for  if  given 
a  shift  when  growth  is  completed  water  will  lodge  in  the  fresh  soil,  and 
this  will  turn  sour  and  almost  certainly  cause  the  plant  to  become 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS.  183 

sickly.  Plants  with  fine  hair-like  roots  should  only  be  given  small 
shifts;  rapid  growing  plants  and  those  with  large  roots  will  take  larger 
shifts.  In  every  case  the  ball  should  be  moderately  moist  when  potting. 
Plants  in  the  younger  stages  of  their  existence,  whether  seedlings  or 
cuttings,  require  the  soil  to  be  of  a  finer  nature  than  when  older,  when 
it  may  be  rough  and  fibrous,  and  in  the  case  of  those  which  need  it 
manure  of  some  kind  added.  In  potting  ordinary  plants  in  pots  above 
the  size  of  4  or  5-inch,  the  firming  of  the  soil  should  be  done  with  the 
aid  of  a  piece  of  wood  about  li/^  inches  wide  and  i^'-inch  thick,  or  larger, 
for  very  large  plants.  Enough  space  should  always  be  left  at  the  top  of 
the  pot,  so  that  when  the  ball  of  earth  is  in  need  of  water  one  applica- 
tion will  be  sufficient  to  wet  it  through.  In  potting  cuttings  it  is  the 
usual  custom  to  put  in  soil  to  one-third  the  depth  of  the  pot;  the  cut- 
ting is  put  in  place,  the  remaining  space  filled  up  with  soil,  firmed  with 
the  thumbs,  then  the  bottom  of  the  pot  is  knocked  several  times  on  the 
bench.  A  better  method  is  to  have  the  knocking  precede  the  firming 
with  the  thumbs,  for  this  reason :  When  the  cutting  is  placed  in  posi- 
tion, the  soil  added  and  thumb-firmed,  the  soil  does  not  get  well  distri- 
buted among  the  rootlets  nearly  so  well  as  when  the  pot  is  given  one  or 
two  gentle  knocks  before  the  thumbs  are  used.  For  most  plants  in  the 
cutting  stage  the  thumbs  should  be  used  for  evening  the  surface  more 
than  for  firming.  Another  reason,  just  as  weighty  as  the  last,  is  that 
pressure  from  the  thumb  acts  unevenly  on  the  roots,  pressing  down 
opposite  sections,  while  the  intervening  spaces  containing  the  tender 
roots  are  stationary.  This  must  necessarily  result  in  twisting  and 
wrenching,  which  dangers  are  done  away  with,  or  at  least  lessened,  by 
first  firming  with  the  knocking  process.  Again,  all  the  cuttings  of  a 
batch  will  not  have  the  same  quantity  of  roots,  and  therefore  they 
should  get  different  methods  of  treatment  in  potting.  Those  which 
have  a  satisfactory  number  of  roots  may  be  put  in  the  middle  of  the 
pot,  according  to  the  usual  custom;  but  those  which  have  few  roots, 
and  which  look  as  if  they  would  benefit  by  being  left  in  the  cutting  bed 
for  a  longer  period,  will,  as  a  rule,  come  along  all  right  if  placed  at  the 
edge  of  the  pot  instead  of  at  the  middle.  The  roots  in  this  position 
make  progress  rapidly,  and  the  plantlets  can  easily  be  given  a  place 
in  the  middle  of  a  pot  during  their  next  shift.  Cuttings  with  very  fine 
roots  should  always  be  treated  in  this  way.  Many  cuttings,  when 
ready  for  potting,  will  be  found  to  have  the  roots  pointing  downward 
from  the  base  of  the  cutting  instead  of  radiating  from  it;  these,  if  of  a 
delicate  and  easily  bruised  nature,  can  be  preserved  by  taking  some  soil 
in  one  hand,  letting  the  fingers  accompany  it  into  the  pot,  and  before 
withdrawing  them  press  the  soil  against  one  side  of  the  pot;  place  the 
roots  against  this  and  fill  up  with  soil.  In  course  of  time  practice  will 
enable  the  operator  to  pot  cuttings  as  rapidly  by  this  as  by  the  ordinary 
method.  In  potting  cuttings  during  the  Winter  months  very  great  care 
should  be  exercised  in  preventing  a  check  through  putting  them  in  soil, 
which  is  of  a  lower  temperature  than  the  sand  from  which  they  have 
been  taken.  It  should  not  vary  more  than  two  degrees  at  the  time  of 
potting. 


184  GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 

Clean  Pots— It  is  the  common  custom,  and  a  bad  one  I  think,  to  put 
plants  in  dirty  pots  with  merely  the  rough  of  the  soil  remaining  in  them 
being  removed  with  a  stick  or  cloth  before  using.  This  operation  takes 
more  time  than  washing.  A  large  number  of  pots  submerged  in  a  big 
tub  of  water  and  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  days  will  have  the  material 
adhering  to  them  softened  so  that  with  a  piece  of  woolen  cloth  and  a 
boy  that  knows  how,  a  large  number  can  be  cleaned  in  a  short  time  so 
that  they  will  be  as  good  as  new.  There  is  no  doubt  that  dirty  pots 
work  to  the  injury  of  the  plants  in  them.  The  inside  soil  adhering  to  the 
pot  after  use  prevents  a  plant  being  easily  knocked  out  and  the  green 
on  the  outside  tends  to  make  the  pot  less  porous;  besides,  a  plant  looks 
better  by  far  in  a  clean  pot  than  in  a  dirty  one.  New  pots  or  thoroughly 
dried,  clean  ones  should  not  be  used  until  they  have  been  dipped  in 
water  immediately  before  using,  as  they  are  apt  to  absorb  too  much  of 
the  water  meant  for  the  plant  after  potting.  Have  divisions  in  the 
potting  shed  for  each  size;  it  saves  both  time  and  pots,  and  when  pot- 
ting is  to  be  done  everything  goes  along  more  smoothly  when  the  vari- 
ous materials  are  ready  at  hand.  There  is  usually  more  time  wasted  in 
gathering  the  necessary  sizes  from  here,  there  and  everywhere,  wiping 
out  a  few  at  a  time  and  punching  a  stick  through  the  aperture  at  the 
bottom  than  would  be  spent  over  the  work  if  it  were  properly  done. 
System  counts  in  this  as  in  everything  else. 

Drainage— Crocking  or  arranging  pieces  of  broken  pots  or  other  mate- 
rial over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  flower  pot  for  drainage  is  an 
operation  to  which  too  little  attention  is  apt  to  be  given.  For  quick- 
growing  soft-wooded  plants  in  small  pots,  or  for  those  which  are 
intended  to  remain  in  the  pot  only  for  a  short  time,  there  is  no  necessity 
for  an  elaborate  system  of  drainage.  Especially  is  this  the  case  where 
the  ball  of  earth  becomes  so  dry  as  to  require  watering  at  least  once  a 
day.  With  plants  of  this  nature,  in  pots  above  the  size  of  3-inch,  a  little 
rough  material  thrown  in  the  bottom  will  give  compensatory  results; 
but  as  usually  done  this  work  takes  more  time  than  if  the  pots  were 
supplied  in  the  regular  way  with  potsherds.  The  rough  pieces  of  the 
potting  soil  are  gathered  up  by  hand  and  put  in  the  pots  as  potting 
proceeds.  A  better  way  will  be  secured  as  follows:  Soil  which  is  to  be 
used  for  cuttings,  and  which  is  screened,  will  give  excellent  material  in 
the  rough  pieces  which  do  not  pass  through  the  meshes;  this  should  be 
saved,  mixed  with  thoroughly  rotted  cow  manure,  and  put  in  a  box 
conveniently  situated  for  future  use.  This  gives  splendid  material  for 
drainage,  especially  for  bedding  plants,  such  as  Geraniums  in  4-inch 
pots,  Cannas  in  5-inch  pots,  and  for  young  Chrysanthemums.  It  will 
be  found  that  that  part  of  the  pot  holding  this  mixture  will  have  a  great 
attraction  for  the  roots.  Where  the  pots  are  to  serve  for  growing  plants 
in  for  any  length  of  time,  potsherds  should  be  used.  With  Palms,  Ferns 
and  such  plants  as  Pandanus,  Dracaenas  and  Marantas  a  carefully 
crocked  pot  cuts  quite  a  figure  in  their  healthy  root  action.  For  Cala- 
diums,  Alocasias,  Anthuriums  and  other  plants  which  require  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  water,  careful  drainage  is  an  absolute  necessity.  With 
fine-rooted  plants,  such  as  Heaths  and  Azaleas,  drainage  is  equally 
important.    It  will  be  found  good  policy  to  have  a  supply  of  the  differ- 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS,  185 

ent  sizes  of  crocks  on  hand  all  the  time.  The  crocks  should  consist  of 
three  sizes,  the  largest  size  in  pieces  from  two  to  three  inches  across; 
the  next  large  enough  to  go  through  a  No.  1  sieve,  and  the  small  size 
from  one-quarter  to  one-half-inch  in  diameter.  The  quickest  way  to 
procure  the  different  sizes  is  to  breakup  the  potsherds  with  a  good-sized 
hammer,  so  that  the  largest  pieces  are  from  two  to  three  Inches  across; 
jjut  into  a  No.  4  or  6  sieve  to  screen  out  the  dust  and  smaller  particles, 
which  may  be  thrown  away.  Next  screen  through  a  half-inch  sieve  and 
these  will  serve  as  the  smallest-sized  crocks.  The  pieces  which  the  half- 
inch  sieve  retain  put  into  an  inch  sieve.  This  will  give  the  second  size, 
and  what  is  left  will  answer  for  pieces  to  put  over  the  holes  in  the  bot- 
toms of  the  pots.  All  three  sizes  should  be  kept  in  separate  boxes,  or 
divisions  on  the  potting  bench,  handy  for  use.  In  crocking,  spread  out 
a  number  of  pots  on  the  bench,  take  a  piece  of  broken  pot  about  twice 
the  diameter  of  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  place  the  concave  side 
of  the  crock  directly  over  the  hole.  If  the  pot  is  a  small  one,  a  few  of 
the  smaller-sized  crocks  over  the  larger  pieces  will  be  sufficient;  but  if  a 
6-inch  pot,  or  larger,  it  is  best  to  arrange  a  few  large  pieces  around  the 
first  piece,  finishing  off  with  smaller  ones.  On  top  of  the  crocks,  to  pre- 
vent the  soil  from  getting  among  them,  either  during  the  operation  of 
potting  or  from  being  washed  down  afterward,  sphagnum  moss  is  often 
used,  although  this  is  not  the  best  material  for  the  purpose,  as  it  is  apt 
to  retain  moisture  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  soil  above  it.  Half 
decomposed  leaves  are  preferable. 

SOIL. 

Loam  is  the  principal  soil  used  for  most  plants.  If  containing 
much  clay  it  is  made  lighter  and  more  porous  by  adding  peat,  leaf 
mould  and  sand.  Each  grower  of  plants  should  have  the  loam  he  uses 
analyzed  by  a  professional  analyst,  in  order  to  be  certain  of  what  it 
contains,  and  to  apply  intelHgently  the  constituents  in  which  it  is  defi- 
cient for  the  different  classes  of  plants.  Two  excellent  books  on  this 
subject  are:  "The  8oil,"  by  Professor  King,  Wisconsin,  and  "  Lectures 
on  Some  of  the  Physical  Properties  of  Soil,"  by  Professor  R.  Warington. 

MULCHING. 

This  consists  of  covering  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  any  loose 
material,  sucJa  as  well-rotted  manure,  cocoanut  fiber,  stable  litter, 
or  half-decayed  leaves.  It  acts  in  retaining  the  moisture  in  the  ground 
for  the  benefit  of  vegetation  instead  of  being  lost  by  rapid  evaporation. 
The  soil,  especially  after  heavy  rainstorms,  gets  a  firm  crust  on  the  sur- 
face which  ultimately  cracks  open,  readily  parting  with  the  moisture 
to  a  good  distance  beneath  the  surface;  thus  the  mulch  acts  as  a  layer 
between  the  drying  influence  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  preventing  it  from  getting  hard  and  keeping  it  open.  A  good  mulch, 
besides  preventing  evaporation  is,  to  a  certain  extent,  similar  in  its 
action  to  a  loose,  silty  surface  soil,  drawing  up  the  moisture  from  several 
feet  below  the  surface.    Mulching  is  also  beneficial,  because  if  manure  is 


186  GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 

used  in  which  there  is  any  feeding  substance  it  is  washed  down  to  the 
roots  of  the  plants  by  heavy  rains.  Cultivating  acts  in  a  similar  man- 
ner to  mulching,  as  the  soil  which  is  loosened  may  be  said  to  be  a  mulch 
of  loose  soil ;  but  to  be  of  the  greatest  service  this  operation  should  be 
performed  after  every  shower  of  rain.  Plants  in  pots  need  the  surface 
stirred  occasionally,  partly  for  the  same  reason  that  plants  in  the  open 
ground  are  benefited  by  frequent  cultivating.  The  top  layer  of  soil  in 
the  pots  gets  into  a  caked  condition;  this  is  indicated  at  times  by  the 
water  standing  on  the  surface  longer  than  usual,  and  is  caused  by  the 
particles  of  soil  being  reduced  by  the  action  of  the  water  to  a  muddy 
state,  forming  a  kind  of  puddle  through  which  water  takes  a  long  while 
to  percolate.  When  potting,  a  little  rough  sand  scattered  on  the  surface 
is  an  excellent  preventive,  keeping  the  whole  mass  porous  and  doing 
away  with  the  necessity  of  frequent  stirring. 

WATERING. 

This  is  the  most  important  work  that  falls  to  the  lot  of  the  plant 
grower.  It  cannot  be  learned  by  reading  a  paper  or  a  book  on  the  sub- 
ject, and  the  man  who  wields  the  watering  can,  or  hose,  no  matter  how 
intelligent  he  may  be,  will  water  plants  for  years  after  a  fashion,  and 
yet  have  a  great  deal  to  learn.  About  all  that  can  be  said  on  the  sub- 
ject is  to  water  a  plant  when  it  needs  it.  The  trouble  lies  in  knowing 
when  it  needs  it.  The  operator  should  first  know  the  plant,  all  about 
it,  where  it  comes  from,  whether  it  inhabits  a  bog  or  a  mountain  top, 
whether  it  is  rapid  or  slow  growing,  its  natural  periods  of  growth  and 
rest,  and  the  same  under  cultivation.  Next  he  must  know  the  condi- 
tion of  the  roots,  the  kind  of  soil  it  is  potted  in  and  when  potted. 
Among  other  things  he  should  know  will  be  the  chemical  composition 
of  the  water,  and  whether  it  is  suitable  for  the  plants  he  is  watering. 
The  temperatures  of  the  soil  and  water  during  the  operation  is  another 
important  item.  Next  he  should  frequently  go  over  different  plants  in 
different  soils,  knock  one  out  of  its  pot  here  and  there  an  hour  or  so 
after  watering,  to  ascertain  whether  the  ball  has  been  wet  an  inch  or 
two  below  the  surface  with  the  remainder  dust  dry,  or  if  the  happy 
medium  has  been  struck.  In  short,  it  may  be  said  that  the  successful 
cultivator  understands  how  and  when  to  water  only  after  years  of 
experience.  Watering  with  the  hose  is  often  the  cause  of  a  good  deal  of 
harm,  both  to  plants  on  benches,  in  the  open  ground,  and  in  pots,  owing 
to  the  manner  in  which  water  is  applied.  It  is  a  favorite  method  with 
some  to  force  the  water  out  of  a  small  nozzle  to  a  distanc^  of  20  feet,  or 
a  less  distance,  with  the  finger  partly  over  the  end  of  the  hose.  A  better 
method  than  this  could  not  be  designed  for  the  packing  of  the  soil, 
washing  it  into  cakes  by  breaking  it  up  into  fine  particles  and  filling  up 
the  interstices  with  thick  muddy  water;  and  when  the  sun  shines,  if  the 
ground  be  not  gone  over  with  the  cultivator  or  loosened  up  in  some 
other  way,  the  surface  soil  gets  as  hard  as  a  brick,  and  the  roots  near 
the  surface  are  subjected  to  a  temperature  far  above  what  is  good  for 
them.  To  do  away  with  the  necessity  for  this  method  of  watering  the 
hose  should  be  short  in  length,  and  stop  cocks  more  frequently  placed. 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS.  187 

For  outside  work  lengths  of  temporary  iron  piping  screwed'into  posi- 
tion wherever  necessary  should  be  provided  so  as  to  use  the  hose  low 
down  among  the  plants,  never  allowing  the  water  to  be  squirted  on  the 
soil.  A  good  plan  is  to  use  distributors,  one  of  which  can  be  made  in  a 
few  minutes  if  the  necessary  material  is  at  hand.  Take  a  piece  of  zinc, 
about  a  foot  long  and  5  inches  wide,  bend  the  sides  for  half  its  length 
so  as  to  clasp  the  end  of  the  hose  to  hold  it  in  position,  and  tie  with 
wire.  The  other  end  should  overlap  the  end  of  the  hose  by  about  6 
inches,  and  be  turned  up  slightly  so  as  to  meet  the  water,  distributing 
it  in  such  a  manner  as  will  enable  the  soil  to  absorb  it  without  being 
disturbed  in  the  least.  This  will  also  prevent  the  foliage  and  flowers 
from  being  spattered  with  muddy  water. 


188 


INDEX. 


A 

Namb  Page 

Abella  rupestris 

(Kock  Abella) 147 

Abutilon 9 

Acacia 9 

Acsena  micFophylla...lll 

Acalypha 50 

— hlspida 9 

Acanthus Ill 

Acer 14,7 

— palmatum  japoul- 

cum 147 

Achillea  millefolium. ..ill 

— mongolica Ill 

— ptarmica  flore- 

pleno.. Ill 

— tomeatosa Ill 

Achimenes 79 

Achyranthes  (Iresine)  58 
Aciphylla  Colensol  ....112  , 

— squarrosa 112 

Aconitum 112 

Acorus  calamus  varie- 
gatus     (variegated 

Sweet  Flag) 112 

Adam's  Needle(Yucca)175 
Adenocalymna  como- 

sum 67 

Adlantum 

(Maidenhair) 101 

— Ca  villus- Veneris 66 

— Farleyense 101 

— from  spores 102 

— propagation  by 

division 102 

Adonis 112 

.^thionema    cordifo- 

lium 112 

Agapanthus     umbel- 

latus 9 

Agathaea  ccBlestis 10 

Agave  americana 10 

Ageratum  mexicanum  50 
Agrostemma 
( Lychnis  )coronarIa  113 

— flos-Jovis 113 

Ajuga 113 

Akebia  quinata 67 

Alabama  Snow- 
wreath  (Nevlusa 

alabamensis) 163 

AUamandas 10 

Alocasia 10 

Aloysla  cltrlodora 11 

Alteruanthera 50 


Namb  Page 

Althsea  rosea 

(Hollyhock) 113 

Althaea,  shrubby 

(Hibiscus  syriacus)  157 
Alum  Root 

(Heuchera) 134 

Alyssum  (Madwort)  .113 
— maritlmum 

(Kceniga) 50 

Amaranthus 50 

Amaryllis 

(Hippeastrum)  ...11,  79 
— propagation  by  off- 
sets   80 

— raising  plants  from 

seeds 80 

Amorpha  fruticosa 
(Bastard  Indigo). ..147 

Amorphophallus 80 

Ampelopsis  Roylei 67 

— Veitchii 67 

Ananas 11 

Andropogon  Schaenau- 
thus  (Lemon  Grass)  92 

Anemone 80 

— alplna 114 

— japonica 114 

— tuoerous  rooted 114 

Annual  plants 51 

Anthericum    varlega- 

tum 11 

Anthurium 11 

Antlgonon  leptopus..  68 
Antirrhinum 

(Snapdragon) 114 

Aponogeton   dlstach- 

yon 12 

Aquilegia(Columblne)  115 
Arabis  (Rock  Cress)  ..116 

Aralia 12 

— Chabrleril 12 

— (Fatsia)  japonica...  12 
— japonica 

(Angelica  Tree)  ...147 

variegata 13 

— papyrifera 116,  131 

Araucarlas 13 

Arauja    (Schubertia) 

grandlflora 68 

Ardlsia 13 

Argemone(Devil'8Fig;116 
Aristolochiaelegans..  68 

— slpho 68 

— Sturtevantli 68 

Armeria  (Sea  Pink)... 117 


1»A.MB  Pagb 

Arundo  donax 92 

variegata 92 

Asclepias   Curassa- 

vica 51 

— tuberosa 

(Pleurisy  Root). ..117 

Asparagus 14 

— plumosus 14 

nanus 69 

as  a  pot  plant  69 

for short sprays  69 

raising  from 

seed 69 

— Sprengerii 14 

— tenuissimus 14,  70 

Asperula  adorata 
(Sweet  Woodruff)  ..117 

Aspidistra 14 

— elatlor 66 

variegata 66 

— punctata 66 

Aspldlum  capense 103 

Asplenlum 15,  103 

Aster 

(Michaelmas  Daisy  )117 
Asters,  Chinese   (Cal- 

llstephus  chinensls)  51 
Astilbe  (Spiraea) 

japonica 118 

Aubrletia  deltoidea...ll8 

Aucuba  japonica 148 

Azalea 15,  148 

— newly  Imported 

plants 15 

— removing  8lde 

growths 15 

— treatment  during 

summer 15 

B 

Balsams 52 

— Z  anzibar       (Im- 

patlensSultanl) 52 

Bamboo 92 

Bambusa 92 

Banana  (Musa) 51 

— M.  ensete 51 

superba 52 

Baptlsia  perfollata....ll8 
Barberry 

(Berberls  Thunbergl)149 
Bay  tree 

(Laurus  nobllls) 161 

Begonia 15,53 

—bedding  varieties  of  53 


INDEX. 


189 


Naux  Paos 

Begonia  coralllna..i6,  53 

— Evanelana 118 

— Gloire  de  Lorraine..  16 
— Rex,  leaf  cuttings  of  17 

— sowing  seed 16 

— tuberous- rooted 

section 16 

—winter  bloomers 16 

Bellflower 

(Campanula) 119 

—Chinese 141 

Bellis  perennis 53 

Berberls  Thunbergl 

(Barberry) 149 

— vulgaris 149 

Blgnonla  venusta 70 

Bird  Cherry 

(Prunus  padus) 165 

Bladder  Nut 

(Staphylea) 173 

Bleeding  Heart 130 

Blood  Root  (Sanguin- 

arla  canadensis) 141 

Bocconia  cordata 

(Plume  Poppy) 119 

Bougalnvlllea 17 

— laterltla 70 

— spectabilis 70 

Bouncing  Bet  (Sapo- 

narla  officinalis) 142 

Boussingaultia  basel- 

lolde8(MadeIraVlue)  70 

Bouvardla 18 

BrowalUa 18 

— elata 53 

— speclosa 53 

Brunfelsla 18 

Bryonia  laclnlosa 70 

Bulbous  plants 80 

Bulbs,  forcing 84 

— outdoor 85 

— spring 85 

Burning  Bush 130 

c 

Cactus 18 

Caladlum 18 

— argyrltes 81 

— fancy -lea  ved 81 

— odoratum  (Colo- 

casia  odorata) ....  82 
— preparations  for  lift- 
ing tubers 82 

— propagation 82 

— starting  tubers 81 

—storing         "     82 

Calathea 19 

— propagation 19 

Calceolaria 19 

Calico  Bush 

(Kalmla  latlfolla)  ..160 

Calla 90 

Calllcarpa 150 

Callirhoe 119 

Calllstemon  speclosus  20 
Calycanthus  (Sweet- 

Scented  Shrub) 150 

— praecox 151 


Nam*  Pagk 

Camellia 20 

Campanula 119 

Candytuft  (Iberis) 134 

Cannas 53 

— for  winter  blooming  20 
— raising  from  seed....  54 

— storing 54 

— varieties 53 

with  ornamental 

foliage 54 

Carludovica 20 

Carnation  (Dianthus 

Caryophyllus) 126 

—cuttings 127 

material  for 127 

—disbudding 129 

—feeding 129 

— lifting  and  plant- 
ing  128 

— Marguerite 130 

—planting  In  the  field. 128 
— propagating  house 

and  benches 127 

— sand 127 

-soil 129 

—supports 129 

— sj^rlnging 129 

— temperature 129 

— to  follow  chrysan- 
themums   130 

— treatment    during 

rooting 128 

—varieties 130 

—ventilation 129 

Caryopteris  masta- 

canthus 150 

Castor  Bean(RicInu8)  63 
Catananche  cfBrulea  ..120 

Catchfly  (Silene) 143 

Cedar,  Japan 153 

Celandine  Double 121 

Centaurea. 120 

Centradenia 21 

Centropogon 21 

Cerastium  Bieber- 

eteinll 121 

Cerasus  laurocera8U8.150 
Cercis  japonica  (Red 

Bud,  Judas  Tree)  ...151 
Cestrum  corymbosum  21 

— Newelll 21 

Chaenostoma  hispida.  54 
Chaste  Tree 

(Vltex  agnu8-ca8tU8)174 
Cheiranthus  Chelrl 

(Wallflower) 121 

Chelidonium  majus 

flore-pleno 

(Double  Celandine). 121 
Chlmonanthus 

ft-agrans 151 

Chionanthus  virginica 

(Fringe  Tree) 151 

Childsla  (Hidalgoa) 

Wercklei 70 

Christmas  Rose 

(Helleborus) 133 

Chrysanthemums 121 


Namk  Paqk 

Chrysanthemum  coc- 

clneum 125 

— insects 124 

— late-flowering 

plants 122 

— leucanthemum 125 

— parthenif  olium 125 

— propagating  for 

general  crop 122 

— raising   new  varie- 
ties  124 

— selecting  the  bud  ....122 

—soil 123 

— specimen  plants 123 

— stock  plants 121 

— types  or  races 124 

— ullglnosum 125 

— varieties 124 

— ventilation 123 

Clbotium  (Dicksonia) 

Schiedel 103 

Cineraria 21 

— candldlsslma 54 

— marltima 54 

Cinquefoil,  shrubby 
( Potentillafrutico8a)165 

Clssus  discolor 71 

Clstus  vIUosus 151 

Citrus  trifollata 151 

Clematis 71, 125 

— grafting  large- 
flowered  varieties  71 

— paniculata 71 

Clerodendron  speclo- 

8um 72 

— Thomsonse 72 

— trichotonum 152 

Clltorla  ternatea 72 

Cobaea  scandens 72 

Codifeum 

(Crotons) 22,  23,  54 

Columbine(Aquilegia;115 
Coneflower 

(Rudbeckia) 141 

Convallarla  majalls...  83 

Coleus 55 

Convolvulus 21 

Cordyllnes 22,  66 

— ornamental   leaved 

kinds 22 

Coreopsis 125 

Cornflower 

(Centaurea) 120 

Cornus  florida  (Flow- 
ering Dogwood) 152 

Cosmos  bipinnatus....  55 

— supports  for 55 

Cotoneaster  mlcro- 

phylla 152 

Cotton  Lavender 

(Santolina  incana).142 
Cotyledon 

(Echeverla) 27,  56 

Cowslip,  American.... 131 

—Virginian 137 

Crape  Myrtle  (Lager- 

stroemia  Indica) 161 

Crat£egus(Hawthorn)152 


190 


INDEX, 


Namb  Pagk 

Crataegus  pyracan- 

tha. 153 

Crinum 83 

— Powellii 83 

Croton 

(Codiseum) 22,  23,  54 

Crotons,  ringing.... 23,  24 
Cryptomeria  japonica 

(Japan  Cedar) 153 

Cuphea  Llavee 56 

— platycentra 56. 

Curculigo 24 

Cycas 24 

Cyclamen 25 

Cydonia  japonica 

<  Japan  Quince) 153 

— Maulei 154 

Cyperus  alternif ollus .  92 
CyrtomiumCaspidlum) 

falcatum 103 

Cytisus 26 

D 

Dactylis  glomerata 

variegata 93 

Dahlias 56 

— propagation 56 

—soil 57 

— varieties 56 

Daisy,  Michaelmas.... 117 

—Ox  eye 125 

—Paris 43 

Dalechampia  Roez- 

liana 26 

Daphne  eneorum 154 

Davallia 103 

— Mariesii 103 

— Mooreana 103 

Delphinium 

(Larkspur) 125 

Desmodium  gyrans...  26 

Deutzia  scabra 154 

Dianthus  (Carnation 

Pinlc) 126 

— Caryophyllus 126 

Dicentra  eximia 130 

— spectabilis 

(Bleeding  Heart).130 
Dlchorisandra  thyrsi- 
flora 27 

Dlcksonia  antarctica.104 

— Barometz 104 

Dictamnus  fraxinella 

(Burning  Bush) 130 

Dieffenbathias 27 

Dit^r villa  (Weigelia)...155 
Digitalis  purpurea 

(Fox  Glove, 

Witches'  Thimbles)  130 
Dodecatheon 

(American  Cow8lip)131 
Dogwood,  Flovrering 

(Cornus  florida) 152 

Doronicum 

(Leopard's  Bane). ..131 

DracEena 26 

— fragrans 26 


Namb  Page 

Dracaena  Godseffi- 

ana 26 

— Goldieana 26 

—  Lindenii 26 

— Massangeana 26 

— Sanderiana 26 

Drosera  binata 27 

E 

Echeverla  (Cotyle- 
don) gibbiflora 
raetallica 27 

Edelweiss  (Leontopo- 
dium  alpinum) 136 

Eichornea 
(Water  Hyacinth)..  28 

—  azurea 28 

Elymus  glaucus 93 

Empress  Tree  (Pau- 
lo wnia  Imperlalls)  ..164 

Eplphyllums 28 

Eranthemum  pulchel- 

lum 29 

Erlanthus  ravennse...  93 

Erica  (Heath) 155 

Ericas 29 

Erpetion  (Viola) 

reniforme. 131 

Erythrinas 29,  57 

— propagation 29 

Eucharis  amazonica..  84 
Eulalia  (Miscanthus).  93 
Euonymus 

(Spindle  Tree) 155 

— radlcans  variegata. 156 
Eupatorium  prooum.  29 
EuphorbiatPoinsettia) 

pulcherrlma 30 

— elegans 31 

Eurya  latif olia 

variegata 31 

Exacum  affine 31 

Exochorda  grandi- 

flora  (Pearl  Bush). .156 

F 

Farfuglum  gran  de.  66, 131 
Fatsia  (Aralia)  papy- 
rifera    (Rice   Paper 

Plant) 116,  131 

Ferns 101 

— cool  house,  summer 

quarters  for 108 

— Insect  enemies  of 110 

—shading 108 

—soil  for 108 

—spores,    gathering 

and  sowing 109 

preparing  soil  for  109 

— viviparous 109 

Ferula  communis  132 

Festuca  glauca 93 

Ficus  elastica 31,  57 

— cuttings 32 

— house-grown  plants  32 
— indoors,    for    stock 

plants 32 


NAmb                             PaqB 
Ficus    mossing,    out- 
of-doors 31 

— slow-rooting  species  32 

Forcing  bulbs 84 

Forget-me-not 

(Myosotis) 137 

Forsythia 156 

Four  O'clock 59 

Fragaria  indica 
(Rock  Strawberry)  132 

Freesias 85 

Fringe  Tree  (Chion- 
anthus  vlrginica)  ...151 

Fuchsia 32 

Funkia 

(Plalntaln  Lily) 132 

— ovata 132 

— Sieboldiana 132 

— sub-cordata 132 

Furcraea 34 

Furze(Ulex  europa'U8)174 

G 

Galllardia  aristata....l32 

Galax  aphylla 132 

Gardenias 34 

Gazanias 57 

Gentiana  (Gentian). ..133 

Geranium 57 

— sanguineum 133 

Gladiolus 86 

Gloriosa  Plantii 

superba 86 

Gloxinias 34 

— diseases  of 35 

—soil  for 35 

Goat's  Beard(Spiraea)143 

Golden  Feather 125 

Gordonia 

(Loblollv  Bay)  156 

Gorse  (Whin,    Furze, 

Ulex  europaeus) 174 

Grevillea  robusta 35 

Guelder  Rose  (Vibur- 
num, Snowball) 174 

Gynerium  argenteum 

(Pampas  Grass) 93 

Gypsophila 133 

H 

Haemanthus 86 

Halesia 

(Snowdrop  Tree)  ...156 

Hamelia  patens. 35 

Hawthorn 

(Crataegus)  152 

Heath  (Erica) 155 

Hedera  helix 

(English  Ivy) 72 

Hedychium  35 

Heeriaalba 36 

— rosea 36 

Helianthus 

(Sunflower) 133 

Heliotrope 57 

Helleborus 

(Christmas  Rose)  ...133 


INDEX. 


191 


Namx  Paos 

Hemerocallis 

(Day  Lily) 133 

Hepatica  triloba 134 

Heuchera(Alum  Root)134 

Hibiscus 36 

— eyriacus 

(Shrubby  Alth8ea).157 
Hippeastrum 

('Amaryllis) 79 

Holly  (Ilex) 158 

Hollyhock 113 

Honeysuckle    (Bush) 

Lonlcera.. 162 

House  Leek 

( Semper  vivum) 143 

Horse  Chestnut, 

smooth  fruited 

(Pavia  macro- 

stachya) 164 

Hoya  carnosa 73 

Humulus    japonicus 

variegatus 73 

Hunnemannia   fuma- 

rijefolia 57 

Hyacinths,  Roman....  84 

— forcing 84 

— in  pans 85 

Hydrangeas  for  pots.  36 

— forcing 36 

— Hortensls 157 

— paniculata  grandi- 

flora 158 

— quercifolia 157 

Hypericum 

(St.  John's  Wort)  ..158 


Iberis  (Candytuft) 134 

Ilex  (Holly) 158 

— cornuta 159 

Imantophyllum 37 

Impatiens  Sultani 

(Zanzibar  Balsam).  52 

Inga  pulcherrima 37 

Ipomsea 73 

— Briggsli 73 

— grandiflora 

(Moonflower) 74 

— tubiculata 66 

Iresine  (Achyranthes)  58 

Iris 86,  135 

— propagation 135 

Isotoma  longiflora  ...  58 

Itea  virginica 159 

Ivy  English 72 

— German 65 

Ixoras 37 

J 

Jasminum  grandi- 

florum 37 

— nudiflorum 

(Chinese  naked- 
flowered  Jasmine)160 
Judas     tree      (Cercis 

japonica) 151 

Juniperus  (Juniper).  160 


Namb  Paqk 

Justicia     (Schaueria) 

calytricha 37 

— (Jacobinia)  carnea.  37 
rosea 37 

K 

Kadsurajaponica 74 

Kalmia  latifolia 

(Calico  Bush) 160 

Kerria  japonica 160 

— white,     (Rhodoty- 
pos  kerrioides)  ...166 

Kniphofia  aloides 136 

Koelreuteria    panicu- 
lata  161 

L 

Lachenalias 86 

Lagerstroemia  indica 

(Crape  Myrtle)  161 

Lantana 58 

Lapageria  alba 74 

— rosea  74 

Larkspur 

(Delphinium)  125 

Lastrea  opaca 66 

— prolifica 66 

Lathyrus       latifolius 

albus  74 

Laurus  nobilis 

(Bay  Tree) 161 

Leontopodium     alpi- 

num  (Edelweiss)  ....136 

Lespedeza  bicolor 136 

Liboniapenrhosiensis  37 
Ligustrum  (Privet). ..161 

Lilac  (Syringa) 173 

Lilium 87 

— auratum 89 

— Harrisli 89 

— longiflorum 89 

— preparing  bulbs  for 

potting 88 

— speciosum 88 

Lily,  Day 133 

Lily  of  the  Valley 83 

— plaintain  (Funkia).132 
Limnocharis       Hum- 

boldtii 96 

Lindelofia  spectabilisl36 

Lobelia 136 

— erinus  58 

Loblolly  Bay 

(Gordoniai  156 

Lomaria  gibba 104 

Lonicera 

(Bush  Honeysuckle)162 
— sempervireus 

(Woodbine) 75 

Lopezia  racemosa 

(Mosquito  Plant)  ...  37 

Lychnis 136 

— (Agrostemma)  coro- 

naria  113 

Lycopods 101 

Lysimachia 

(Loosestrife) 137 


Name  Paok 

Lysimachia  nummu- 

laria  (Moneywort)..  66 
Lythrum  salicaria 

(Purple  Loo8e8trife)137 

M 

Madeira  Vine 70 

Magnolia 162 

Mahernia  glabrata....  38 
Malvaviscus  arboreus  38 

— mollis 38 

Manettia  bicolor 76 

— cordifolia 75 

Maples  (Japanese)  ....147 

Maranta 38 

Marvel  of  Peru 59 

Meadow  8weet 

(Spiraea) 143 

Medinilla 38 

Mertensia  virginica 

(Virginian  Cowslip)  137 
Mesembryanthemum.  58 
Metrosideros  robusta  38 

— semperflorens 38 

Microlepia  (Davallia) 

hirta  cristata 104 

Mignonette  (Reseda).  58 
— for  early  flowering.  59 
Mimulus  moschatus..  59 
Mint,  Horse, 

(Monarda) 137 

Mirabills  jalapa 59 

Mock  Orange 

(Philadelphus)  165 

Monarda 

(Horse  Mint) 137 

Monstera  deliciosa....  38 

Morina  longifolia 137 

Mullein  (Verbascum).145 

Musa  coccinea 38 

Mussfenda  frondosa..  38 

— luteola 38 

Myosotis 

(Forget-me-not) 137 

N 

Narcissus 84 

— poeticus 89 

Nelumbium 96 

— insect  enemies 97 

—raising  plants  from 

seed 96 

— starting    dormant 

tubers 96 

Nepenthes 39 

Nephrolepis 105 

— acuta 105 

— cordifolia 104 

pectinata 105 

— davallioides 105 

furcans 104 

— exaltata 104 

bostoniensis 104 

cristata 104 

— washingtoniensis . .  .104 

pendula 104 

Nerium  (Oleander)...,  39 


192 


INDEX. 


Nams  Pagk 

Neviusa  alabamensls 

(Alabama  Snow 

Wreath) 163 

Nierembergia  frutes- 

cens..; 59 

— gracilis 59 

Nigella  damascena....  59 
Niphobolus  lingua 

corymbifera 66 

Nymphsea 97 

— hardy  sorts 98 

raising    from 

seeds 99 

starting 98 

— night-blooming 

section 97 

—soil  for 98 

— starting  tubers  into 

growth 98 

— summer  quarters...  98 
—tender kinds.  The...  97 
wintering 98 

o 

Ochna  multlflora 39 

CEnothera 

(Evening  PrImroseUSS 
Ononis  (Resth arrow)  138 
Onosma    stellulatum 

var.  tauricum 138 

Onychium 105 

Ophiopogon 138 

Orchids 40 

— Calanthe 40 

— Cattleyas 40 

— Coelogynecristata..  40 

— Cypripedium 41 

— Dendrobium  nobile.  41 

— Laelia  anceps 41 

— Odontoglossum 41 

— Oncidlum  varicosum  41 

var.  Rogersii...  41 

— potting  material....  41 
Or.  bus     (Lathyrus) 

vern  u8(Bitter  Vetch)138 

Osmanthus 163 

Othonna   crasslfolia 

(Little  Picliles) 66 

Ouvirandra  fenes- 

tralis 100 

Oxalis 59,89 

P 

Pachysandra 138 

Peederia  foetida 76 

Pseonia 139 

— Moutan 

(Shrubby  Paeonia)  .163 

Palms 41 

— Areca  (Chrysalido- 

carpus)  lutescens..  42 
— Caryota  sobolifera .  42 
— (Jeroxylon  andicola  42 

— Cocosplumosa 42 

Weddellana 42 

— Corypha  australis..  42 


Namb  Page 

Palms,  Kentia  (Ho- 

wea)  Belmoreana...  42 

Forsteriana....  42 

—  Lataniaborbonica.  42 

— Licuala  grandis 42 

— Livistona  chinensis  42 

Jenkensli 42 

rotundifolia 42 

— Phoenix  rupicola 42 

— Rhapis    flabelli- 

formis 42 

— Seaforthiaelegans..  42 
— Stevensonia  grandi- 

folia 42 

Pandanus 60 

— utilis 43 

— Veitchii 43 

Panicum  variegatum  94 

Pansies  (Viola) 60 

— to  flower  in  frames.  60 

—tufted 61 

Papaver  (Poppy) 139 

— nudicaule 139 

Papyrus  antiquorum  94 

Paris  Daisies 43 

Passiflora  coerulea 76 

— incarnata 76 

Paullinia       thalictri- 

folia 43 

Paulownia  imperialis 

(Empress  Tree) 164 

Pavia  macrostachya 

(Smooth-fruited 

Horse  Chestnut) 164 

Peach 

(Persica  vulgaris)  ...164 
Pearl  Bush 

(Exochorda  grandi- 

flora)  155 

Pelargonium  61 

—fancy 62 

— ivy-leaved  section...  62 
Pennisetum        longi- 

stylum 94 

Pentas  carnea 62 

Pentstemon 140 

Peperomias 43 

Pereskias 43 

Peristrophe   angusti- 

folia 62 

Persica  vulgaris 

(Peach) 164 

Periwinkle  (Vinca) 145 

Petrea  volubllis 76 

Petunias 62 

Philadelphus 

(Mock  Orange,  Sy- 

ringa) 165 

Phlox  Drummondii...  62 
— subulata 

(Moss  Pink) 140 

Phormium  tenax 43 

Phygelius  capensis  ...140 
Phyllagathis  rotundi- 
folia    44 

Phyllanthus  atropur- 

pureus 44 

— nivosus 44 


Naxs  Pagk 

Phyllotaenlum     Lln- 

denii 44 

PhysaUs  Franchetti..l40 
Pitcher  Plant 

(Sarracenia) 142 

Platycerium  alcicornelOS 

— grande 105 

Platycodon  grandi- 
florum 

(Chinese  Bellflower)141 
Plumbago  capensis...  63 

Plume  Poppy 119 

Plumerias.The 45 

Polianthes  tuberosa 

(Tuberose) 89 

Polypodium 106 

— (Phlebodium) 

aureum 106 

— conjugatum 106 

— (Goniophlebium) 

8ub-auriculatum..l06 

— Heracleum 106 

— (Niphobolus)lingua.l06 

— Phymatodes 106 

— rigidulum 106 

Pomegranate,  Dwarf 
(Punica    granatum 

nana) 165 

Poppy  (Papaver) 139 

Potentilla  fruticosa 
(Shrubby  Cinquef  oil)165 

Primrose 141 

—Evening 138 

Primula 45, 141 

— ^fertilizing  flowers...  46 

— floribunda 45 

— Forbesii 45 

— Isabellina 45 

— obconica 45 

— sinensis 45 

Privet  (Ligu8trum)...161 
Prunus  padus 

(Bird  Cherry) 165 

Pteris 107 

— creticaalbo-lineata  107 

— inequallfolia 107 

— quadriaurita  107 

— serrulata  66 

— tremula 107 

— Walllchii 107 

Pueraria  Thunber- 

giana 76 

Punica    granatum 
nana  (Dwarf  Pome- 
granate)  165 

Pyrethrum  roseum  ...125 
Pyrus  (Crab  Apple).. ..165 

Q 

Quince,  Japan 
(Cydonia  japonica);.153 

R 

Rabbit  Berry  (Shep- 
herdia  argentea) 173 

Reinwardtia  (Linum) 
trigynum 46 


INDEX. 


193 


Name  Page 

Reinwardtia  tetragy- 

num 46 

Rhaphiolepis  ovata...l66 

Rhododendron  166 

Khodotypos  ker 

rioides 166 

Rhus  cotinui* 

(Smoke  Tree) 166 

Richardia  sethiopica 

(Calla) 90 

Ricinus  (Castor  Bean)  63 

Robina  hispida 167 

Rochea  (Crassula) 

faleata 46 

Rohdea  japonica 66 

Rosa  (Rose) 167 

— cultivation  under 

glass 170 

— for  outdoor  bloom  .169 

— forcing 168 

— propagation 168 

by  grafting 171 

by  seeds 168 

— summer 171 

— teas    and    hybrid 

teas 169 

Rudbeckia  (Cone- 
flower) 141 

Ruellia  macrantha....  47 
Russelias 47 

Saccharura  officina- 

rum  violaceum 95 

St.  John's  Wort 

(Hypericum) 158 

Saintpaulia  ionantha  47 

Salvia  leucantha 47 

— patens 47 

— pratensis 141 

— splendens 47,  63 

Bonfire 47 

Sanchezia  nobilis 63 

Sanguinaria  canaden- 
sis (Blood  Root) 141 

Santolina  incana..63,  142 
Saponaria  officinalis 

(Bouncing  Bet) 142 

Sarracenia 

(Pitcher  Plant) 142 

Saxifraga  sarmentosa 

(Aaron's  Bf*ard).65,  142 
Scutellaria  (Skull.cap)142 
Sea  Pink  (A.rmeria)...117 
Sedum  (Stonecrop)....142 

Selagiaella 107 

— csesia  arborea 108 

— Emmeliana 107 

— erythropus 108 

— Kraussiana 107 

— lepidophylla 108 

— Martensii 108 

— viticulosa 108 

Sempervivum 

(House  Leek) 143 

Senecio  scandens 
(German  Ivy) 65,  77 


Namk   •  Pagb 

Shepherdia   argentea 

(Rabbit  Berry) 173 

Silene  (Catchfly) 143 

Smilax  (Myrsiphyllum 

aspa.ragoides) 77 

Smoke  Tree 

(Rhus  cotinus) 166 

Snapdragon 114 

Snowball  (Viburnum, 

Guelder  Rosa) 174 

Snowberry  (Symphori- 

carpus  racemosus)..173 
Snowdrop  Tree 

(Hale-.ia> 156 

Solanum  Wendlandii.  77 
Sphserogyne  latifolia.  48 
Spindle  Tree 

(Euonymus) 155 

Spiraea  (Meadow 

Sweet,  Goat's  Beard)143 
— (astilbe)  japonica.. ..118 

— shrubby 173 

Stachys lanata 

(  Hedge  Nettle) 144 

—shrubby 173 

Staphylea 

(Bladder  Nut) 173 

Statice(Sea  Lavender)144 
Stephanophysum 

(Ruellia)  longifiorum  49 
Stephanotis  flori- 

bunda 48 

Stevias 48 

Stignaphyllon  cilia- 
turn  (Butterfiy  Vine)  77 
Stipa  pennata 

(Feather  Grass"* 95 

Stonecrop  (Sedum). ...142 
Strawberry,  Rock 

(Fragaria  indica)....132 
Streptocarpus  hybrids  48 
Strobilanthes  aniso- 

phylius 49 

— Dyerianus 63 

— isophyllus 49 

Sunflower 

(Helianthus) 133 

Swainsona 63 

Sweet  Peas 74 

— supports  for 74 

Symphoricarpus  rac'^- 

mosus  (Snowberry)  173 
Synadenlum  Grantii..  49 

Syringa  (Lilac) 173 

Syringa(Philadelphus, 

Mock  Orange) 165 


Tagetes 63 

Tamarix 174 

Tanacetum      vulgare 

(Tansy) 144 

Tecoma  grandiflora..  77 

Thunbergia 78 

Thymus  (Thyme) 144 

Tiarella  cordifolia 

(False  Mitrewort)...144 


Namk  Pagb 

Tinnea  sethlopica 49 

Torenia  Fournieri 64 

Tricyrtis  hirta 
(Japanese       Toad- 
Lily) 144 

Tropaeolum 

(Indian  Cress) 64 

Toxicophlsea    specta- 

bilis 49 

Trillium 90 

Tritoma  uvaria 136 

Tuberose  89 

Tulips 84 

— forcing 84 

— outdoor  bulbs 85 

U 

Ulex  europfeus 

(Whin,Gorse,  Furze)174 
Uniola  latifolia 95 


Valloradia        (Plum- 
bago)     plumbagin- 

oides 144 

Vallota  purpurea 90 

propagation 90 

Yerbascum  (Mullein).. 145 

Verbenas  64 

— venosa 64 

Veronica  (Speed  well),  .145 
Viburnum  (Snowball, 

Guelder  Rose) 174 

Victoria  Regia,  The.. .100 

Vinca  (Periwinkle) 145 

— major  var.  elegan- 

tissima 66 

— rosea 64 

Violas  (Violets) 145 

— hardy 146 

— leaf  spot  on 146 

Vitex  agnus-castus 

(Chaste  Tree) 174 

Vitis  heterophylla 
variegata 78 

w 

Wallflower 121 

Water  Lilies,  tender, 

wintering 98 

Water  Plants, 

labels  for 100 

Welgelia  (Diervilla)....155 
Wistaria  chinensis 78 


Xanthoceras    eorbi- 
folia 175 


Yucca 
(Adam's  Needle) 175 

z 

Zinnias 64 

n.  C.  State  Collete 


\^^ 


LIBRARY. 

Dimsion  of  HortieuMfg. 

'■   n  Tfcrv't  of  Affl'Mtiim 


**^ 


